IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Hiotographic 

^Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographiu  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibllographiques 

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Coloured  covers/ 
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Coloured  pages/ 
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Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommag^e 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

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Cover  title  missing/ 

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y 

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y 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

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1 — 1    Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
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La  re  liure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

n 


D 


distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
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D 


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Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Th 
to 


Th 
po 
of 
fill 


Or 
be 
thi 
sio 
oti 
fir 
sio 
or 


Th 
shi 
Til 
wf 

Mi 
dif 
em 
bei 
rig 
re( 
mc 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


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to  the  generosity  of: 

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L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
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conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
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the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
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sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED ").  or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  film6s  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commengant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  chaque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — *>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  f  ilmd  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

6 

e 

4 


I ; 


I 


V 


ai'C-*-^^ 


LETTERS  AND  SKETCHES 


WITH 


A    NARRATIVE   OF   A    YKARS    RI<:SII)r:\(  i: 


AMO\(i 


THE  INDIAN  TRIBES 


OF 


®l)c  ttockj)    itloiiutnins. 


I 


By 
P.  J.  DE  SMET,  8.  .1. 


I'UULISHED    BY    M.    FITHIAX,    Gl     \.    SECOND    STREET. 

1843. 


PREFACE. 


To  THOSE  who  love  their  country,  ;iiul  their  fellow 
men,  we  present  this  interesting  Narrative,  with  the 
hope,  we  might  say,  the  certainty,  that  its  perusal  will 
afford  them  some  moments  of  the  purest  gratification. 
We  liave  seldom  met  any  thing  more  entertaining.     Its 
simple,  manly  eloquence  enchants  the  attention.     The 
facts  it  makes  known  to  us  of  the  "  far,  far  West,"  the 
dispositions  and  habits  of  the  Indian  Tribes  who  roam 
over  the  vast  region  of  the  Oregon,  their  present  state 
and  future  prospects,  are  such  as  cannot  fail  to  awaken 
lively  interest  in  all  who  love  to  look  around  them  be- 
yond the  narrow  horizon  of  every-day  scenes,  and  learn 
what  the  holy  servants  of  God  are  doing  for  His  sake 
and  in  His  name  in  distant  parts  of  the  world.  We  have 
conversed  with  the  apostolic  man  from  whose  pen  we 
receive  this  narrative ;  and  as  we  listened  we  felt  at 
once  honoured  and  delighted  to  be  so  near  one  who  in 
our  days  and  in  his  own  person  brings  before  us  that 
lofty  spirit  of  missionary  devotedness — those  thrilling 
scenes  of  Indian  life  and  adventure  which  we  so  much 
admire  in  the  pages  of  Charlevoix  and  Bancroft. 


VI 


I-riKFACH. 


Truly   our  country  is  full  ol"  intcrc.«it  to  those  who 
watch  its  progress,  and  compare  if.  with  the  past.   Who, 
for  example,  could  have  dreamt  that  the  Iro(|Uois,  the 
savage  Mohawk, — under  which  name  wo  hest  know  the 
tribe,  and  whose  startling  yell  so  often  made  our  fore- 
fathers tremble, — would  have  been  chosen  to  kindle  the 
first  faint  sparks  of  civilization  and  Christianity  among 
a  huge  portion  of  the  Indian  tribes  beyond  the  Rocky 
Mountains  ?     This   is  one  of  the  singular  facts  which 
these  pages  present  to  us.     They  abound  in  others  not 
less  singular  and  interesting.     Many  of  these  Indian  na- 
tions actually  thirst  after  the  waters  of  life — sigh  for 
the  day  when    the   real  "  Long  down"  is   to  appear 
among  them,  and  even  send  messengers   thousands  of 
miles  to  hasten  his  coming.     Such  longing  after  God's 
holy  truth,  while  it  shames  our    colder   piety,  should 
also  cnllame  every  heart  to  pray  fervently  that  labor- 
ers may    be  found  for   this  vast  vineyard — and  open 
every   hand  to  aid  the  holy,  self-devoted  men,  who, 
leaving  home   and   friends   and   country,   have  buried 
themselve^J  in  these  wilds  with  their  beloved  Indians,  to 
live  for  them  and  God.     One  of  their  favourite  plans  at 
this  moment  is  to  introduce  among  them  a  taste  for  agri- 
culture, with  the  means  to  pursue  it.     They  believe  it 
to  be  the  speediest,  perhaps  the  only  way  by  which  the 
Indians  may  be  won  from  the  wandering  life  they  now 


rRKFA(  K. 


VII 


>  those  who 
past.  Who, 
ro(|Uois,  the 
est  know  the 
(Ic  our  forc- 
to  kindle  the 
unity  among 
tl  the  Rocky 
facts  which 
in  others  not 
le  Indian  na- 
ife — sigli  for 
s   to  appear 
thousands  of 
after  God's 
►ietv,  should 
\f  that  iabor- 
— and  open 
men,  who, 
lavc  buried 
d  Indians,  to 
rite  plans  at 
iste  for  agri- 
ly  believe  it 
ly  which  the 
fe  they  now 


in  general  lead  and  from  the  idle  habits  it  engenders. 
To  aid  them  in  this  philanthropic  object  is  our  sacred 
duty  as  men,  as  Americans,  as  Christians.  It  is  at  least 
one  method  of  atonement  for  the  countless  wrongs  which 
these  unfortunate  races  have  received  from  the  whites. 
We  should  be  grateful  to  have  such  an  opportunity  of 
doing  good:  let  none  suder  the  occasion  to  pass  unhon- 
oured  by  some  tribute  to  the  noble  cause — some  evi- 
dence of  their  love  for  God,  their  country  and  their  fel- 
low man. 

The  frontispiece  is  from  the  pencil  of  one  of  the  In- 
dian Missionaries. 

It  ble»ids  the  skill  of  the  artist  with  the  fancy  of  the 
poet,  and  will  hardly  be  understood  without  a  word  of 
explanation.  In  the  foreground  we  see  several  of  the 
gigantic  trees  of  the  Oregon  forests,  fallen  and  crossing 
each  other.  On  these  repose  two  wolves,  a  squirrel 
and  several  serpents.  AbovT,  two  Indian  chiefs,  sur- 
named  in  baptism  after  the  great  Apostles  of  the  Gen- 
tiles, Peter  and  Paul,  are  supporting  a  large  basket  of 
hearts, — an  ofFcring  to  heaven  from  the  grateful  wil- 
derness. On  the  right  are  the  emblems  of  Indian  life 
and  warfare :  the  bow  and  arrows,  battle-axe  and 
shield.  Below  and  above  these  are  seen  some  of  the 
most  remarkable  animals  of  the  country — the  bear,  the 


i 


Vlll 


PREFACE. 


wild  horso,   llio  hadgcr,  the  graceful   antelope,  inter- 
mingled with  the  plover,  the  pigeon,  the  wood-cock,  the 
bittern,  and  other  birds  of  the  region.     On  the  left  arc 
the  peaceful   symbols  of  Christianity — the   Hible  and 
the  Cross,  the  chalice  and   altar  lights — the  anchor, 
symbol  of  faith  and  hope — the  trumpet,  to  proclaim  the 
word  of  Ciod  and  bid  the  desert  bless  His  holy  name. 
Here  too  we  behold  several  of  the  noble  animals  of  the 
t(Tritory — the  butlalo,  the  deer  and  elk,  the  mountain 
sheep  and  diilerent  birds.     In  the  distance  arc  seen  on 
the  riL'ht,  Indian  mounds,  and  a  water-spout  rising  from 
the  river  Platte,  and  on  the  left,  the  Rocky  Mountains 
surmounted  by  the  Cross.     Festoons,  composed  of  the 
various  flowers  the  Fathers  have  met  on  their  way  over 
mountains  and  prairies  and  through  lonely  vallies,  com- 
plete the  picture — the  whole  supported  at  the  extre- 
mities by  difFerent  birds  of  the  country,  and  in  the  cen- 
tre by  the  American  eagle, — fit  emblem,  we  may  say,  of 
their  own  dauntless  faith,  as  well  as  of  the  heroic  spirit  of 
the  nation  within  whose  borders  they  have  their  princi- 
pal station,  and  from  whose  genuine  piety  they  have 
received  the  most  consoling  assurances  of  final  success, 
viz :  the  Flat  Head  Indians  and  the  Pends-d'oreilles, 
who  are  styled,  even  by  their  foes,  the  "  nation  of 


chiefs. 


>» 


I    'i 


l'KKt\(  F,. 


IX 


pc,  intcr- 
■cock,  the 
c  Id't  arc 
iil)Ie  and 
i  anchor, 
claim  the 
'y  name, 
lis  of  the 
nountain 
)  seen  on 
ing  from 
ountains 
d  of  the 
vay  over 
es,  com- 
3  extre- 
the  cen- 
y  say,  of 
spirit  of 
r  princi- 
jy  have 
success, 
areiJies, 
ition  of 


()iic(;  uioru  we  caniolly  coniinciHl  tlic  no'jje  cause  of 
Oicsc  ticvoled  Missioiiarics  to  the  charilv  I'f  every  sin- 
cere (.'iiri-rtian.  The  short  time-  allowrd  to  prepare  the 
Work  for  the  presd  niiM  I.e  our  apology  for  several  ini- 
j)erfer(ioiLS  or  errors  wiiich  may  meet  the  eye  of  the 
reader. 

*#*  Wherever  the  word  "  calrnut"  occurs,  read  calu- 
nicf. 


1 


II 


4 


BOOK    I. 


Dies  vcnit,  dies  tiia 
In  qua  reilorent  omnia, 
Laelcmur  et  nos  in  viam, 
Tua  rediicti  dcx-tera. 

The  days  ofsprinjr  arc  drawing  near 

\Vhen  all  thy /lowers  will  rc-am)ear. 
And  wo  redccmfd  hy  thy  right  hand, 
Jihall  walk  in  gladness  thro'  the  land 


liJ 


I 


1 


1 


;   ■;! 


lY' 


i 


LETTER  1. 


J 


■1^ 


if, 
'A 


St.  Louis  University,  Feb.  4,  1841. 

TO    THE    REV.    F.    J.    H. 

Rev.  and  Dear  Sir: 

I  PRESUME  you  are  aware,  that  in  the  beginning  of  last 
Spring,  I  was  sent  by  the  Right  Rev.  Bishop  of  St.  Louis, 
and  my  Provincial,  on  an  exploring  expedition  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  dispositions  of 
the  Indians,  and  the  prospects  of  success  we  might  have 
if  we  were  to  establish  a  mission  among  them.  It  is  truly 
gratifying  to  me  lo  have  so  favorable  a  report  to  make. — 
My  occupations  do  not  allow  me  to  enter  into  all  the  de- 
tails ;  I  shall  therefore  be  satisfied  at  present  with  giving 
you  a  brief  sketch  of  my  journey  and  its  result. 

I  started  from  Westport  on  the  30th  of  April,  in  company 
with  the  Annual  Expedition  of  the  American  Fur  Compa- 
ny, which  for  this  year  had  appointed  the  rendezvous  on 
Green  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Rio  Colorado  of  the  West. 
Captain  Dripps,  who  commanded  the  caravan,  treated  me 
on  all  occasions  with  the  most  polite  attention.  On  the  6th 
day  of  our  journey  I  was  seized  with  the  fever  and  ague, 
and  have  been  subject  to  it  for  nearly  five  months.  Noth- 
ing particularly  worth  noticing,  occurred  during  the  jour- 
ney, except,  when  we  halted  in  the  village  of  the  Sheyen- 
nes.  I  was  introduced  to  the  Chiefs  as  a  minister  of  the  Great 

2 


14 


Description  of  a  Battle. 


i.i 


\\'\ 


Spirit:  ihey  showed  me  great  deference,  and  I  was  invited 
to  a  feast.  I  had  to  pass  al  first  through  all  the  ceremonies 
of  the  Calmut ;  tlie  great  chief  approached  me  to  shake 
hands,   and  gave    me   a  heartfelt  "How   do  you   do."  — 
"Blackgown,"  said   he,  "my  heart  was   filled   with  joy 
when  I  learned  who  you  were.     My  lodge  never  received 
a  visitor  for  whom  I  feel  a  greater  esteem.     As  soon  as  I 
was  apprised  of  your  coming,  I  ordered  my  great  kettle  to 
be  filled,  and  in  your  honor,  I  commanded  that  my  three 
fattest  dogs  should  be  served  up."     The  bravest  warriors 
of  the  nation  partook  of  the  repast,  and  I  availed  myself  of 
the  opportunity  to    explain  to   them  the   most  important 
tenets  of  Christianity.     1  loid  them  the  object  of  my  visit, 
and  enquired  whether  they  would  not  be  satisfied  to  have 
also  Black-gowns  among  them,  who  would  teach  them  to 
love  and  serve  the  Great  Spirit,  as  !ie  wished.     "Oh  yes," 
they  eagerly  answered,  "  we  will  gladly  provide  for  every 
thing  that  they  stand  in  need  of;  they  will  not  die  of  hun- 
ger amongst  us."     I  have  no  doubt  but  a  zealous  mission- 
ary would  do  a  great  deal  of  good  among  them.     They  are 
about  two  thousand  in  number.     Their  language,  it  is  said, 
is  very  difficult.     On  the  30th  of  June  we  arrived  at  the 
rendezvous.     An  escort  of  warriors  had  been  provided  for 
me  by  the  Flat-heads.     Our  meeting  was  that  of  children 
who  come  to  meet  their  parent,  and  in   the  ellusion  ofiheir 
heart,  they  bestowed  upon  me  the  fondest  names  with  a  sim- 
plicity truly  patriarchial.     They  told  me  of  all  the  interest- 
ing particulars  of  their  nation,  and  of  the  wonderful  pre- 
servation of  sixty  of  their  men,  in  a  battle  against  two  hun- 
dred Black-feet,  which  lasted  five  whole  days,  and  in  which 
they  killed  fifty  of  their  enemies,  without  losing  a  single 
man  of  their  nuaiber.     "  The  Great  Spirit  watched  over 
them  ;"  they  said,  "  he  knew  that  we  were  to  guide  you  to 


\\'i 


^"J  '  Has  invited 
"  t''e  ceremonies 
'^^'^  me  to  sliake 

^o  }ou   do."-. 

filled    Hill,  JQy 

0  never  received 
•     As  soon  as  I 
y  great  iveliJe  lo 
''  "'at  my  three 
'f^^'est  tvnrriors 
'^'ileil  myself  of 
fnost  important 
-et  of  my  visit, 
'"'sfied  lo  iiave 

^eaclj  tliem  to 
'•      "01,  yes," 
^vhle  for  every 
JottiieofJiun- 
aloiJs  mission- 
"•     They  are 
'S^e,  a  is  said, 
"■'■'''ed  at  the 

provided  for 
'  «f  thiijren 
s'o/i  of  their 
*^  w  i«li  a  sim- 

ihc  iniersst- 
"tierfui  pre. 
'St  two  Uun. 
"J  'n  wliich 
"g"  a  single 
Itched  over 
»J'tJe  you  (0 


I 

I 
I 

I 


I 


I 


11 


I 


I 

o 


■^ 


i» 


Celebration  of   the  first  aMuss. 


15 


15 


2 
n 


X 


o 


i-S 


our  camp,  and  he  wanted  to  clear  the  road  of  all  llie  obsta- 
cles that  you  might  have  found  on  your  way.  We  trust  we 
will  not  be  annoyed  any  more  by  ihc  IJlackfeel;  they  went 
off  weeping  like  women."  We  thanked  heaven  for  the 
signal  preservation,  and  implored  its  assistance  for  the  new 
and  perilous  journey  we  were  on  the  point  of  undertaking. 
The  Indians  of  diflercnt  nations  and  the  trappers,  had  as- 
sembled at  the  rendezvous  in  great  numbers,  for  the  sake  of 
the  trade.  On  Sunday,  the  fifth  of  July,  I  had  the  consola- 
tion of  celebrating  the  holv  sacrifice  of  Mass  sub  dio.  The 
altar  was  placed  on  an  elevation,  and  surrounded  with 
boughs  and  garlands  of  flowers;  I  addressed  the  congrega- 
tion in  French  and  in  English,  and  spoke  also  by  an  inter- 
preter to  the  Flat-head  and  Snake  Indians.  It  was  a  spec- 
tacle truly  moving  for  the  heart  of  a  Missionary,  to  behold 
an  assembly  composed  of  so  many  difl'orent  nations,  who 
all  assisted  at  our  holy  mysteries  with  great  satisfaction. — 
The  Canadians  sung  hymns  in  French  and  Latin,  and  the 
Indians  in  their  native  tongue.  It  was  truly  a  Catholic 
worship.  .  .  .  Tiiis  place  has  been  called  since  that  time, 
by  the  French  Canadians,  la  prairie  de  la  Messe. 

About  thirty  of  the  principal  chiefs  of  the  Snake  Indians 
invited  me  to  a  council.  1  explained  to  them  the  christian 
doctrine  in  a  compendious  manner — they  were  all  very 
attentive — they  then  deliberated  among  themselves  for 
about  t\3lf  an  hour,  and  one  of  the  chiefs,  addressing  me  in 
the  name  of  the  others,  said:  "  IJlack-gown,  the  words  of 
thy  mouth  have  found  their  way  to  our  hearts;  they  never 
will  be  forgotten.  Our  country  is  open  for  thee;  come  to 
teach  us  what  we  have  to  do,  to  please  the  Great  Spirit,  and 
we  will  do  according  to  thy  words."  I  advised  them  to 
select  among  themselves  a  wise  and  prudent  man,  who, 
every  morning  and  evening,  should  assemble  thera  to  offer 


16 


Ji  Council  Meeting. 


hi 


!    1 


to  Almighty  God  their  prayers  and  supplications  ;  thai  there 
the  good  cliiefs  shonhl  have  an  opportunity  of  exhorting 
their  warriors  to  behave  as  they  ought.  Tlie  meeting  was 
held  tlic  very  same  evening,  and  the  great  cliief  promulga- 
ted a  law,  that  for  the  future,  the  one  who  would  be  guilty 
of  theft,  or  of  any  other  disorderly  act,  should  receive  a 
public  castigation.  On  Monday,  6ih,  we  proceeded  on 
our  journey.  A  dozcH  Canadians  wished  to  accompany 
me,  to  have  an  opj)ortuniiy,  as  they  said,  to  practise  their 
religion.  Eight  days  afterwards  we  arrived  safely  in  the 
camp  of  the  Flat-licads,  and  Ponderas,  or  Pends  d'oreilles. 
Immediately  ilie  wiiole  village  was  in  commotion  ;  men, 
women  and  children,  all  came  to  meet  me,  and  shake 
hands,  and  I  was  conducted  in  triumph  to  the  lodge  of  the 
great  chief  Tjclizhitzay,  (the  IJig  face.)  He  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  an  old  patriarch.  Surrounded  by  the  principal 
chiefs  of  the  two  tribes,  and  tlie  most  renowned  warriors, 
he  thus  addressed  me:  "This  day  Kaikolinzosten  (the 
Great  Spirit)  has  accomplished  our  wishes,  and  our  liearts 
are  swelled  with  joy.  Our  desire  to  bo  instructed  was  so 
great,  that  three  times  had  we  deputed  our  people  to  the 
Great  Black-gown*  in  Si.  Louis,  to  obtain  a  father.  Now, 
Father,  speak,  and  we  willconjply  with  all  you  will  tell 
us.  Show  us  the  road  we  have  to  follow,  to  come  to  the 
place  where  the  Great  Spirit  resides."  Then  he  resigned 
his  authority  to  me ;  but  I  replied  that  he  mistook  the  object 
of  my  coming  among  them  ;  that  I  had  no  other  object  in 
view,  but  their  spiritual  welfare;  that  with  respect  to  tem- 
poral aflairs,  they  should  remain  as  they  were,  till  circum- 
stances should  allow  them  to  settle  in  a  permanent  spot. — 
Afterwards  we  deliberated  on  the  hours  proper  for  their 


1 


*  The  Bishop. 


» 


(ft' 

t  ill 


1  thai  there 

exhorting 

seling  was 

promulga- 

tl  be  guilty 

1  receive  a 

iceeded  on 

iccompany 

actise  their 

ft'ly  in  the 

I  d'oreilles. 

lion  ;  men, 

and  shake 

idge  of  the 

las  the  ap- 

e  principal 

\  warriors, 

;oslen  (the 

our  liearts 

ed   was  so 

pie  to  the 

r.     Now, 

u  will  tell 

me  to  the 

resigned 

the  object 

object  in 

t  to  tem- 

11  circum- 

It  spot. — 

for  their 


Morninsc  and  Evenins:  Demotion. 


17 


spiritual    exercises  and    instructions.     One   of  the   chiefs 
brought  me  a  bell,  with  which  I  might  give  the  signal. 

The  same  evening  about  2,000  persons  were  assembled 
before  my  lodge  to  recite  night  prayers  in  common.  I  told 
ihem  the  result  of  my  conference  with  the  chiefs  ;  of  the 
plan  of  instructions  which  I  intended  to  pursue ;  and  with 
what  disposition  they  ought  to  assist  at  them,  etc.  Night 
prayers  having  been  said,  a  solemn  canticle  of  praise  of 
their  own  composition,  was  sung  by  these  children  of  the 
mountains,  to  the  Author  of  their  being.  It  would  be  im- 
possible for  me  to  describe  tiie  emotions  I  felt  at  this 
moment;  I  wept  for  joy,  and  admired  the  marvellous  ways 
of  that  Kind  i^rovidence,  who,  in  his  intinite  mercy,  had 
deigned  to  depute  me  to  this  poor  people,  to  announce  to 
them  tiic  glad  tidings  of  salvalioH.  The  next  day  I  as- 
sembled the  council,  and  with  the  assistance  of  an  intelli- 
gent interpreter,  I  translated  into  their  language  the  Lord's 
Prayer,  tije  Hail  Mary,  the  Apostles'  Creed,  the  ten  Com- 
mandments, and  four  Acts.  As  1  was  in  the  habit  of  re- 
citing these  prayers,  morning  and  evening,  and  before  in- 
structions, about  a  forlnigl.t  after,  I  promised  a  beautiful 
silver  medal  to  the  one  who  would  recite  them  first.  One 
of  the  chiefs  rising  immediately,  "Father,"  said  lie, 
smiling,  ''  that  medal  is  mine,"  and  he  recited  all  the 
prayers  without  missing  a  word.  I  embraced  liim,  praised 
the  eagerness  which  he  had  evinced  of  being  instructed, 
and  appointed  him  my  Cathecist.  This  good  Indian  set 
to  work  with  so  much  zeal  and  perseverance,  that  in  less 
than  a  fortnight  all  knew  their  prayers. 

Every  morning,  at  the  break  of  day,  the  old  chief  is  the 
first  on  horseback,  and  goes  round  the  camp  from  lodge  to 
lodge.  "Now  my  children,"  he  exclaims,  *'il  is  time  to 
rise;  let  the  first  thoughts  of  your  hearts  be  lor  the  Great 

2» 


rrr- 


18 


Six  hundred  baptized. 


Ill 


"-!| 


U    '  .< 


t     f 


'  ■  ll 


iJ 


I . 


Spirit;  say  ihat  you  love  him,  and  beg  of  him  to  be  merci- 
ful unto  you.  Make  haste,  our  Fallier  will  soon  ring  the 
bell,  open  your  ears  to  listen,  and  your  hearts  to  receive  the 
words  of  his  mouth."  Then,  if  he  has  perceived  any  dis- 
orderly act  on  the  preceding  day,  or  if  he  has  received 
unfavorable  reports  from  the  other  chiefs,  he  gives  them  a 
fatherly  admonition.  Who  would  not  think,  that  this  could 
only  be  found  in  a  well  ordered  and  religious  community, 
and  yet  it  is  among  Indians  in  the  detiles  and  vallies  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  !  ! !  You  have  no  idea  of  the  eagerness 
they  showed  to  receive  religious  instruction.  I  explained 
the  christian  doctrine  four  times  a  day,  and  nevertheless  ray 
lodge  was  filled,  the  whole  day,  with  people  eager  to  hear 
more.  At  night  I  related  those  histories  of  the  Holy  Scrip- 
tures that  were  best  calculated  to  promote  their  piety  and 
edification,  and  as  I  happened  to  observe,  that  I  was  afraid 
of  tiring  them,  *'  oh  no,"  they  replied,  "  if  we  were  not 
afraid  of  tiring  you,  we  would  gladly  spend  here  the  whole 
night." 

1  conferred  the  holy  sacrament  of  Baptism  on  six  hun- 
dred of  them,  and  if  I  thought  it  prudent  to  postpone  the 
baptism  of  others  till  my  return,  it  was  not  for  want  of 
desire  un  their  part,  but  chiefly  to  itnpress  upon  their 
minds  a  greater  idea  of  the  holiness  of  the  sacrament,  and 
of  the  dispositions  that  are  required  to  receive  it  worthily. 
Among  tliose  baptised,  were  the  two  great  chiefs  of  the  Flat- 
heads  and  of  the  Ponderas.  As  I  excited  the  catechumens 
to  a  heartfelt  contrition  of  their  sins,  the  IValking  Bear, 
chief  of  the  Ponderas,  answered:  "Father,  I  have  been 
plunged  for  a  number  of  years  in  profound  ignorance  of 
good  and  evil,  and  no  doubt,  during  that  time,  1  have  often 
greatly  displeased  the  Great  Sj)irits  and  therefore  1  must 
humbly  beseech  his  pardon.     But  wlien  I  afterwards  con- 


■-7 


A  farewell  Address. 


19 


be  merci- 
\  ring  the 
eceive  the 
J  any  ilis- 
s  received 
ves  them  a 

this  could 
ammuniiy, 
lies  of  the 

eagerness 
[  explained 
theless  my 
Tcr  to  hear 
loly  Sciip- 

piety  and 

was  afraid 
e  were  not 

the  whole 

In  six  hun- 
isipone  the 
lor  want  of 
upon  their 
tnent,  and 
worthily, 
f  the  Flat- 
echumens 
'  Bear, 
Ihave  been 
lioranco  of 
have  often 
ire  1  must 
ards  con- 


ceived that  a  thing  was  bad,  1  banished  it  from  njy  heart, 
and  I  do  not  recollect  to  have  since  deliberately  otl'eniled 
the  Clreai  Spirit."  Truly,  where  such  dispositions  are 
found,  we  may  well  conclude  that  a  rich  harvest  is  to  be 
gathered. 

1  remained  two  months  among  these  good  people,  and 
every  day  they  were  adding  to  my  consolations,  by  tlieir 
fervor  in  prayer,  by  their  assiduity  in  coming  to  my  in- 
structions, and  by  their  docility  in  putting  into  practice 
what  they  had  been  taught. 

Tiie  season  being  far  advanced,  and  as  I  had  waited  in 
vain  for  a  safe  opportunity  to  return  to  St.  Louis,  I  resolved 
to  commit  myself  entirely  to  Providence,  and  on  the  7lh  of 
August,  I  took  leave  of  my  dear  Neophytes.  1  appointed 
one  of  the  cjiiefs  to  replace  me  during  my  absence,  who 
should  preside  in  their  evening  and  morning  devotions,  and 
on  the  Sabbath  exhort  them  to  virtue,  baptize  the  little 
children,  and  those  who  were  dangerously  ill.  Grief  was 
depicted  on  the  features  of  all,  and  tears  were  glistening  in 
every  eye.  The  old  chief  addressed  me,  saying,  "  Father, 
the  Great  Spirit  accompany  thee  in  thy  long  and  dan'^erous 
voyage;  every  day,  morning  and  evening,  we  will  address 
to  him  our  humble  supplications,  that  thou  mayest  arrive 
safely  among  thy  brethren.  And  wc  will  continue  to  do 
so,  till  thou  be  again  among  thy  children  of  the  mountains. 
We  are  now  like  the  trees  that  have  been  spoiled  of  their 
verdure  by  winter's  blast.  When  the  snow  will  have 
disappeared  from  these  vallies,  and  the  grass  begins  to 
grow,  our  hearts  will  begin  to  tejoice ;  when  the  plants  will 
spring  forth  our  joy  will  increase;  when  they  blossom,  it 
will  still  be  greater,  and  then  we  will  set  out  to  meet  you. 
Farewell,  Father,  farewell." 

The  Chiefs  would  not  suffer  me  to  depart  by  myself — 


20 


Efficacy  of  Religion  Explained. 


\\ 


f»i 


thirty  of  the  bravest  warriors  were  lU-piilcd  as  a  safeguard 
to  traverse  the  counlry  of  tlie  Black-feet,  who  are  very 
hostile  to  the  whiles,  and  they  were  instructed  to  accompa- 
ny me,  as  far  as  need  would  be  of  their  assistance.  I  re- 
solved to  take  on  my  return  a  dilTercnt  route  from  the  one  I 
had  taken  in  coming.  I  was  induced  to  do  so,  in  order  to 
visit  the  Forts  of  the  American  Fur  Company  on  the 
Missouri,  and  on  the  Yellow  Stone,  to  baptize  the  children. 
After  five  or  six  days  travelling,  we  fell  in  with  a  war  patty 
of  the  Crow  Indians,  who  received  us  very  kindly,  and 
we  travelled  together  for  two  days.  Then  we  directed  our 
course  to  the  Big  Horn,  the  most  considerable  of  the  tribu- 
tary streams  of  the  Yellow  Slone.  There  we  met  another 
party  of  the  same  nation,  who  were  also  amicably  disposed 
towards  us.  As  there  was  question  about  religion,  I  availed 
myself  of  the  opportunity  to  express  to  them  the  main  arti- 
cles of  the  Christian  faith,  and  as  I  was  depicting  in  lively 
colors  the  torments  of  hell,  and  had  told  them  that  the  Great 
Spirit  had  kindled  this  fire  of  his  wrath,  for  those  who  did 
not  keep  the  commandments  I  had  explained  to  them,  one 
of  the  Chiefs  uttered  a  horrid  shriek.  "  If  this  be  the 
case,"  said  he,  '•  then  I  believe  there  are  but  two  in  the 
whole  nation  who  will  not  go  to  that  place  ;  it  is  the  Beaver 
and  the  Mink  ;  they  are  the  only  Crows  who  never  stole, 
who  never  killed,  nor  committed  all  the  excesses  which 
your  law  prohibits.  Perhaps  I  am  deceived,  and  then  we 
must  all  go  together."  When  1  left  them  on  the  next  day, 
the  Chief  put  a  fine  bell  on  my  horse's  neck,  and  invited 
me  to  take  a  turn  round  the  village.  Next,  he  accompa* 
nied  me  for  six  miles. 

After  several  days  of  a  painful  journey  over  rocks  and 
cliffs,  we  arrived  at  last  at  the  fort  of  the  Crows.  It  is  the 
first  the  American  Fur  Company  possessed  in  that  country. 


■i 


I  snfeguanl 
1  are  very 
0  accompa- 
ince.     1  re- 
in ihc  one  1 
in  order  lo 
iny  on  the 
lie  children, 
a  war  paiiy 
kindly,  and 
directed  our 
if  the  iribu- 
met  anolher 
)ly  disposed 
on,  I  availed 
le  main  arli- 
ing  in  lively 
at  ihe  Great 
ose  who  did 
,0  ihem,  one 
this  be  the 
two  in  the 
the  Beaver 
never  stole, 
esses  which 
nd  then  we 
lie  next  day, 
and  invited 
e  accompa- 

rocks  and 

.     It  is  the 

hat  country. 


1 

i 


/'ass(rj;c  through  a  ilani^crous  Count nj. 


21 


My  dear  Flril-hcads  cdilied  all  the  inhabitants  by  their 
fervor  and  ilicir  piety.  As  well  in  the  I'orl,  as  on  tlio  road, 
wc  never  niissed  perforniiiij,'  in  common,  our  evening  and 
moriiini;  ilcvotioiis,  and  binj^ing  canticles  in  honor  of  the 
Almi<4lity.  Frequently,  dining  my  stay  with  them,  they 
had  given  me  sihutidant  jirools  of  their  trust  in  I'.ovidence. 
1  cannot  forbear  incniioning  one  iiisiancc  that  occurred  du- 
ring my  travels  in  this  place.  One  day  as  dinner  was  pre- 
paring and  provisions  scarce,  a  countryman  ot  mine,  who 
a(;comj»anied  nic,  suggested  the  piopricty  of  lveej)ing  some- 
thing in  reserve  for  t^upper.  "  IJe  not  uneasy,"  said  the 
chief,  called  Ensyla,  "I  never  missed  my  supper  in  my 
life.  1  trust  in  the  mercy  of  the  Great  Spirit,  he  will  pro- 
vide for  all  our  wants."  We  had  just  camped  at  night, 
when  the  chief  killed  two  slags.  "  Did  1  not  tell  you 
right?"  he  remarked,  smilingly,  to  my  companion.  "  You 
sec  the  Great  Spirit  does  not  only  provide  for  our  wants  of 
this  evening,  but  he  gives  us  also  a  supply  for  to-morrow." 
Now  began  the  most  dilliculi  and  most  perilous  part  of 
our  journey.  1  had  to  pass  through  a  country  suppoj«ed  lo 
be  overrun  by  war  parlies,  of  the  iJlack-feet,  Assineboins, 
Gros  Ventres,  Arikaras,  and  Scioux.  All  these  nations  en- 
tertained the  most  hostile  disjiositions  towards  the  Fiat- 
heads.  I  therefore  dispensed  with  their  services  any  far- 
ther. I  again  cxcitsjd  them  to  continue  the  good  work 
they  had  begun;  to  be  steadfast  in  their  failh ;  regular  in 
their  devotions  ;  charitable  towards  one  another.  1  em- 
braced them  all  and  took  my  leave.  Mr.  John  de  Velder, 
a  native  of  Ghent  in  Belgium,  had  volunteered  his  services 
lo  me  at  the  Rendezvous.  In  consideration  of  the  bad  state 
of  my  health,  I  deemed  myself  very  happy  to  accept  of 
ihem  ;  he  has  never  left  me  since.  He  was  now  to  be  my 
only  travelling  companion.  As  there  is  no  road,  we  fol- 
lowed  the  direction  of  the   river ;  at  intervals  we   were 


"T 


22 


Feast  on  a  Ihiffalo. 


obliged  to  make  immense  circuits  to  avoid  the  steep  and 
craggy  liills  that  defied  our  pnssai^e.  For  two  hundred 
miles,  wo  had  continually  death  bel'oro  our  eyes.  On  the 
second  day,  I  discovered  before  dayliijht  a  large  smoke  at 
a  distance  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  >Ve  hastily  sad- 
dled our  horses  and  following  up  a  ravine  we  gained  a  high 
blufT  unperceivcd.  At  night  wc  did  not  dure  to  make  fire 
for  fear  of  attracting  notice.  Again  about  dinner  time,  we 
found  on  the  road  the  carcase  of  a  BuHalo,  killed  only  two 
hours  before;  the  tongue  and  the  marrow  bunes  with  some 
other  dainty  pieces  had  been  taken  away.  Thus  the  kind 
providence  of  our  Ciod  took  care  to  .supply  our  wants. 

Wc  took  a  direction  contrary  lo  the  tracks  of  the  Indians, 
and  spent  a  safe  night  in  the  cliil's  of  the  rocks.  The  next 
day  we  struck  upon  a  spot  where  forty  lodges  had  been 
encamped,  the  fires  were  yet  in  full  blaze. 

Finally,  we  crossed  the  Missouri  at  the  same  place 
where,  only  an  hour  before,  a  hundred  lodges  of  ill-minded 
Assineboins  had  passed,  and  we  arrived  safe  and  unmolest- 
ed at  Fort  Union,  situated  a  few  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Yellow  Stone.  In  all  these  Forts  great  harmony  and 
union  prevail;  Mr.  Kipps,  the  present  administrator  of 
them,  is  a  gentleman  well  worthy  of  his  station.  Every 
where  I  was  treated  by  these  gentlemen  with  the  greatest 
politeness  and  kindness,  and  all  my  wants  were  liberally 
Mupplied.  As  I  was  relating  the  particulars  of  this  dange- 
rous trip  to  an  Indian  Chief,  he  answered:  *^  The  Great 
Spirit  has  his  Maniloos ;  lie  has  sent  them  to  take  care  of 
your  steps  and  to  trouble  the  enemies  that  would  have  been 
a  nuisance  to  you."  A  Christian  would  have  said  :  Angelis 
suis  mandavit  de  te,  ut  custodiant  te  in  omnibus  viis  tuis.* 


♦  *'  He  has  given  his  angels  charge  of  thee,  that  they  guard 
thee  in  all  thy  ways." 


Btccp  anil 
)  hundred 
.     On  ihe 

smuke  at 
aslily  sad- 
iicd  a  higli 

make  fire 
r  lime,  we 
lI  only  iwo 
Willi  some 
js  ihe  kind 
kvunls. 
he  Indians, 
The  nexl 
s  had  been 

same   place 
f  illininded 
I  unmolesl- 
e  moulh  of 
rmony  and 
lislrator  of 
1)11.     Every 
le  greatest 
ire  liberally 
this  dange- 
The  Great 
ake  care  of 
have  been 
d :  Angells 
viis  tuis.* 

they  guard 


A  Nation  nearlij  destroyed  by  Small  Pox.         23 

5  On  23tl  of  September  wc  set  ont  for  the  village  of  llic  Man- 

dans,  in  ''ompany  with  three  men  of  the  fort,  who  had  the 
famn  destination.  Wc  met  on  the  road  a  party  of  10  As- 
sincboiiis,  who  were  reluming  to  their  country  from  an  un- 
•ncccssiful  expedition  agninst  the  CJros  Ventres.  'J'hcir  looks 
indicated  their  bad  intentions:  although  we  were  but  five  in 
nnmber,  wo  ehowtnl  a  determined  countenance,  and  we 
passed  nnmole>ln(l.  Next  day  we  crossed  a  forest,  the 
winter  quarters  of  the  Gros  Ventres,  and  Arikaras,  in  1835. 

I  It  was  there  that  those  unfortunate  tribes  were  nearly  ex- 

terminated by  the  small  jiox.      We  saw  their  bodies  wrap- 
ped up  in  Dulfalo  robes,  tied  to  the  branches  of  the  largest 
trees.     It  was  truly  a  sad  and  mournful  spectacle.     Two 
days  later  we  met  the  miserable  survivors  of  these  unhappy 
tribes.     Only  ten  families  of  the  INIandan?,  once  such  a  pow- 
erful  nation,    now   remain.     They    have  united  with  the 
Gros  Ventres  and  Arikaias.     They  received  me  with  great 
demonstrations   of  frieudship;   I   spent  that  night  in  their 
camp,    and  the   next   day    crossed    the    Missouri  in  their 
canoe,  made  of  a  buHulo  skin.     The  next  dav  wc  came  to 
the  first  villaiie  of  the  Arikaras,  and  on  the  following  day  to 
their  great  village,  consisting  of  about  a  hundred  earthen 
wig-warns.     This  tribe  also  received  me  very  kindly.     On 
the  0th  of  October  we  started  from  the  IManilan  village,  for 
Fort  Pierre,  on  the  little  Missouri ;  a  Canadian,  whose  des- 
tination lay  in  lh6  same  direction,  accompanied  us.     The 
Commandant  of  the  Fort  had  recommended  to  us  in  a  spe- 
cial manner  to  be  on  our  guard  against  the  Jantonnois,  the 
Sanlees,  Jauious,  Aukepatines,  Ampapas,  Ogallallast  and 
Black-feet  Scioux,  who   have   often   proved  very   trouble- 
some lo  white  strangers.     On  the  third  day  of  our  journey 
we  fell  in   with  an  ambui^cadc  of  the  Jantonnois  and  San- 
tecs  ;  they  did  not  do  us  any  Iiarm,  but  on  the  contrary 


24 


A  Surprise. 


M  'i(. 


[}    Ml 


t 


I- 


:  1  I 


I 


i  I'l! 

|li  f 


treated  us  very  kindly,  and  at  our  departure  loaded  us  with 
provisions.  The  next  day  we  fell  in  with  several  other 
parties,  who  showed  us  much  kindness.  On  the  ninth  day 
we  were  on  tlie  lands  of  the  Black-feet  Scioux  ;  this  coun- 
try is  undulating  and  intersected  with  numherlcss  little 
streat.is.  For  greater  caution  we  travelled  in  ravines. 
Towards  dinner  time,  a  fine  landscape,  near  a  delicious 
spring,  seemed  to  invite  us  to  take  some  repose.  We  had 
scarcely  alighted,  when  all  on  a  sudden  a  tremendous  yell 
alarmed  us,  and  from  the  top  of  the  hill  under  which  we 
were,  the  Black-feet  darted  upon  us  like  lightning.  ♦'  Why 
do  you  hide  yourselves?"  asked  the  Chief,  in  a  stern  voice. 
♦•  Are  you  afraid  of  us?"  Dressed  in  my  cassock  with  a 
crucifix  on  my  breast, — a  costume  I  always  wear  in  the  In- 
dian country, — it  appeared  to  me  that  I  was  the  subject  of 
his  particular  enquiry.  He  asked  the  Canadian  what 
kind  of  a  man  I  was.  The  Frenchman  said  I  was  a  Chief, 
a  Black-gown,  the  man  who  spoke  to  the  Great  Spirit.  He 
assumed  immediately  a  milder  countenance,  ordered  his 
men  to  lay  down  their  arms,  and  we  performed  the  cere- 
monies of  shaking  hands  and  smoking  the  calmut  of  peace. 
He  then  invited  me  to  accompany  them  to  the  village,  situ- 
ated only  at  a  short  distance.  It  consisted  of  about  a  thou- 
sand souls.  I  pitched  my  tent  at  some  distance,  in  a  beau- 
tiful pasture,  on  the  margin  of  a  fine  stream,  and  invited  the 
great  chief  to  partake  of  a  supper  with  me.  As  I  said  grace 
before  meal,  he  enquired  of  the  Canadian  what  I  was  about. 
He  is  addressing  the  Great  Spirit,  was  the  reply,  in  grati- 
tude for  the  food  he  has  granted  us.  The  chief  nodded  a 
sign  of  approbation.  Shortly  after,  twelve  warriors,  in  full 
costume,  stretched  a  large  bufl'alo  robe  before  the  place 
where  I  sat.  The  chief,  taking  me  by  the  arm,  invited  me 
to  sit  down.     I  was  under  the  impression  that  there  was 


.^' 


1 


eil  us  with 
/eral  oilier 
J  ninth  day 
this  coun- 
3rlcs8  little 
in  ravines, 
a  delicious 
.     We  had 
endous  yell 
which  we 
g.     »♦  Why 
stern  voice, 
sock  with  a 
ir  in  the  In- 
;  subject  of 
adian    what 
vas  a  Chief, 
Spirit.    He 
ordered  his 
ed  the  cere- 
ut  of  peace, 
illage,  situ- 
30ut  a  thou- 
,  in  a  beau- 
invited  the 
I  said  grace 
was  about, 
y,  in  grati- 
|ef  nodded  a 
iors,  in  full 
the  place 
invited  me 
there  was 


Eagerness  for  Instruction. 


25 


question  again  of  smoking  the  calmul.  Judge  of  my  as- 
tonishment, when  the  twelve  warriors,  seizing  each  a  piece 
of  the  robe,  took  me  up,  and  headed  by  their  chief,  carried 
me  in  triumph  to  their  village.  In  the  lodge  of  the  great 
chief  the  most  conspicuous  place  was  assigned  mo,  and  he 
addressed  me  thus  :  "  'I'his  day  is  the  happiest  of  my  life. 
For  the  first  time  do  we  behold  among  us  a  man  who  is  so 
closely  united  with  the  Great  Spirit.  Black-gown,  you  see 
before  you  the  chief  warriors  of  my  tribe  ;  I  have  invited 
them  to  this  feast,  in  order  tliat  they  may  keep  the  remem- 
brance of  your  coming  among  us  as  long  as  tliey  shall  live." 
Then  he  invited  me  to  speak  again  to  the  Great  Spirit,  (to 
say  grace)  I  began  in  the  name  of  the  Father  and  of  the 
Son,  etc.,  and  immediately  all  present  lifted  up  their  hands 
towards  heaven ;  when  I  had  concluded  they  all  struck  the 
ground.  I  asked  the  chief  what  they  meant  by  this  cere- 
mony. "  When  we  lift  up  our  hands,"  said  he,  "  we  sig- 
nify^hat  all  our  dependence  is  on  the  Great  Spirit,  and  that 
he  in  his  fatherly  care  provides  for  all  our  wants  :  we  strike 
the  ground  to  signify  that  we  are  only  worms  and  misera- 
ble creeping  beings  in  his  sight."  He  asked  me  in  hie 
turn,  what  I  had  told  to  the  Great  Spirit.  Unhappily,  the 
Canadian  was  a  poor  interpreter,  still  I  endeavored  to  make 
them  understand,  as  well  as  I  could,  the  Lord's  Prayer. 
The  chief  showed  great  eagerness  to  know  what  I  said. — 
He  ordered  his  son  and  two  other  very  intelligent  young 
men  to  accompany  me  to  the  fort,  in  order  to  learn  the  prin- 
ciples of  the  Christian  doctrine,  and  to  be  at  the  same  time 
a  safeguard  against  the  Indians  who  might  be  inimically 
<1ispo?ed  towards  us.  Two  days  afterwards  wo  met  an 
Indian,  whose  horse  was  bending  under  a  load  of  buffalo 
meat.  Seeing  us  without  provisions,  he  requested  us  to 
accept  what  we  might  stand  in  need  gf,  advising  ub  to  tak« 

3 


p 


ill! 


26 


Reconciliation  between  two  Nations. 


Ill' 
r   III 

nil  •'' 

I,     <  ' 

;  I 

1^. 


Ill: 


Hi 


the  whole,  for,  said  he,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort,  game  is 
very  scarce.  Five  days  afte wards  we  arrived  at  Fo.t 
Pierre.  Thence  I  travelled  through  prairies  for  nin^ieen 
days  successively.  We  were  often  obliged  to  cook  our 
victuals  with  dried  herbs — not  a  stick  was  to  be  found. 
When  I  arrived  at  Fort  Vermillion,  I  was  apprised  that 
the  Santees  had  been  on  a  warlike  expedition  against  the 
Potiawatomies,  of  liie  Council  Bluffs,  among  whom  I  had 
labored  the  two  preceding  years. 

I  invited  them  to  a  council,  and  gave  them  a  severe  re- 
primand for  violating  the  solemn  promise  they  had  made 
me  the  preceding  year,  of  living  with  their  neighbors  on 
amicable  terms.  I  showed  them  the  injustice  of  attacking 
a  peaceable  nation  without  being  provoked  ;  the  dreadful 
consequences  of  the  Pottawatomies'  revenge,  that  might 
end  in  the  extinction  of  their  tribe.  I  was  requested  to  be 
once  more  the  mediator,  and  they  told  me  that  they  had 
resolved  to  bury  the  tomahawk  forever. 

I  had  lost  two  horses  on  the  road ;  the  one  I  was  riding 
could  hardly  support  me  any  longer,  and  I  was  yet  three 
hundred  miles  distance  from  the  Council  Bluffs.  I  resolved 
of  course  to  embark  on  the  Missouri,  and  engaged  a  native 
Iroquois  to  be  my  pilot.  At  first  we  were  favored  with 
fine  weather,  but  this  lasted  only  a  few  days.  Very  soon 
inclement  weather  set  in  with  frost  and  snow  ;  and  several 
times  as  we  drifted  down  the  rapid  stream,  our  frail  canoe 
was  on  the  point  of  being  dashed  to  pieces  against  the 
numberless  snags  that  obstruct  its  navigation.  This  dan- 
gerous trip  lasted  ten  days.  We  generally  spent  the  night 
on  a  sand  bar.  We  had  only  a  few  frozen  potatoes  left 
when  we  perceived  a  beautiful  deer  gazing  at  us,  and  appa- 
rently waiting  to  receive  its  mortal  blow.     We  shot  at  it. 


Prepartions  to  return. 


27 


't,  game  is 
d  at  FoA 
)r  ninPieen 
I  cook  our 
<  be  found, 
prised  that 
;)gainst  the 
'hom  I  had 

I  severe  re- 
'  had  made 
iighbors  on 
if  attacking 
he  dreadful 
that  might 
lested  to  be 
^t  they  had 

was  riding 
s  yet  three 
I  resolved 
ed  a  native 
ored  with 
Very  soon 
nd  several 
frail  canoe 
gainst  the 
This  dan- 
the  night 
tatoes  left 
and  appa- 
Ishot  at  it. 


At  last  we  arrived  safe  at  the  blufls,  and  on  the  same  night 
the  river  was  closed  by  ice. 

So  many  escapes  from  the  midst  of  so  many  dangers  tho« 
roughly  convinced  me  that  this  undertaking  is  the  work  of 
God — omnia  disponens  fortiter  et  ad  finem  suam  conducens 
suaviter.  (Who  reacheth  from  end  to  end  mightily,  and 
ordereth  all  things  sweetly.)  I  am  now  preparing  for  my 
return,  and  will  start  early  in  Spring,  accompanied  by  three 
Fathers  and  as  many  IJrothers.  You  are  aware  such  expe- 
ditions cannot  be  undertaken  without  the  necessary  means, 
and  the  fact  is,  I  have  no  other  reliance  than  Provi- 
dence and  the  kindness  of  my  friends.  I  hope  they  will 
not  be  wanting.  I  know  that  you  must  feel  deeply  interest- 
ed in  this  meritorious  good  work,  I  therefore  take  the  liber- 
ty of  recommending  it  to  your  generosity,  and  that  of  your 
(Viends — every  litUe  contribution  will  help.  I  will  be  very 
grateful  to  you,  if  you  have  the  kindness  to  forward  to  my 
address  at  the  St.  Louis  University,  Mo.,  before  the  end  of 
March,  or  middle  of  April,  the  amount  you  have  collected. 

I  recommend  myself  and  my  dear  Neophytes  to  your 
good  prayers  and  holy  sacrifices,  and  rest  assured  that  we 
shall  not  forget  our  benefactors. 

r.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


^ 


V.     ' 


LETTER  II. 


'  i 


'i!:i 


m 


m 


I   h 


!!( 


TO    THE    REV.    FATHER    ROOTHAAN,    GENERAL    OF    THE 
SOCIETY   OF    JESUsS, 

University  of  Si.  Louis,  7th  Feb.  1841. 
Verv  Rev.  Father: 

In  a  letter,  which  I  suppose  has  been  communicated  to 
you,  I  informed  the  Bishop  of  St.  Louis  of  the  results,  as 
fat  as  they  bear  on  religion,  of  my  journey  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  But  that  letter,  though  lengthy,  could  give 
you  but  a  very  imperfect  idea  of  the  desert  which  I  passed 
six  months  in  traversing,  and  of  the  tribes  who  make  it  the 
scene  of  their  perpetual  and  sanguinary  rivalship.  It  will, 
therefore,  I  think,  be  useful  to  resume  tht  history  of  my 
mission ;  and  I  repeat  it  the  more  willingly,  since  I  am 
called  to  penetrate  again  into  those  deep  solitudes,  from 
which,  I  may,  peihaps,  never  return.  To  my  brethren, 
who  take  an  interest  in  my  dear  Indians,  I  owe  an  account 
of  all  my  observations  upon  their  character  and  customs, 
upon  the  aspect  and  resources  of  the  country  they  inhabit, 
and  upon  their  dispositions,  that  they  may  know  how  far 
ihey  are  favorable  to  the  propagation  of  the  Gospel. 

We  arrived  the  18th  of  May  upon  the  banks  of  the  Ne- 
braska, or  Eig  Horn,  which  is  called  by  the  French  by 
the  less  suitable  name  of  the  Fiat  River.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  magnificent  rivers  of  North  America.  From  its 
source,  which  is  hidden  among  the  remotest  mountains  of 
this  vast  continent,  to  the  river  Missouri,  of  which  it  is  a  tri- 
butary, it  receives  a  number  of  torrents  descending  from  the 


J 


I 


A  Sea  of  Islands. 


29 


>F    THE 

b.  1841. 

jnicaled  to 
I  results,  as 
tlie  liocky 
could  give 
3h  1  passed 
make  it  the 
}.     It  will, 
tory  of  my 
ince  I  am 
udes,  from 
brethren, 
an  account 
customs, 
y  inhabit, 
w  how  far 
el. 

f  the  Ne- 

French  by 

ne  of  the 

From   its 

untains  of 

it  is  atri- 

from  the 


Rocky  Mountains ;  it  refreshes  and  fertilizes  immense  val- 
lies,  and  forms  at  its  mouth  the  two  great  geographical  di- 
visions of  the  upper  and  lower  Missouri.  As  we  proceeded 
up  this  river,  scenes  more  or  less  picturesque  opened  upon 
our  view.  In  the  middle  of  the  Nebraska,  thousands  of 
islands,  under  various  aspects,  presented  nearly  every  form 
of  lovely  scenery.  I  have  seen  some  of  those  isles,  which, 
at  a  distance,  might  be  taken  for  flotillas,  mingling  their 
full  sails  with  verdant  garlands,  or  festoons  of  flowers;  and 
as  the  current  flowed  rapidly  around  them,  they  seemed,  as 
it  were,  flying  on  the  waters,  thus  completing  the  charming 
illusion,  by  this  apparent  motion.  The  tree  which  the  soil 
of  these  islands  produces  in  the  greatest  abundance,  is  a 
species  of  while  poplar,  called  cotton  tree;  the  savages  cut 
it  in  winter,  and  make  of  the  bark,  which  appears  to  have  a 
good  taste,  food  for  their  horses. 

Along  the  banks  of  the  river,  vast  plains  extend,  where 
we  saw,  from  time  to  time,  innumerable  herds  of  wild  An- 
telopes. Further  on,  we  met  with  a  quantity  of  buflaloes' 
skulls  and  bones,  regularly  arranged  in  a  semicircular  form, 
and  painted  in  different  colors.  It  was  a  monument  raised 
by  superstition,  for  the  Pawnees  never  undertake  an  expedi- 
tion against  the  savages  who  may  be  hostile  to  their  tribe, 
or  against  the  wild  beasts  of  the  forest,  without  commen- 
cing the  chase,  or  war,  by  some  religious  ceremony,  per- 
formed amidst  these  heaps  of  bones.  At  the  sight  of  them 
our  huntsmen  raised  a  cry  of  joy  ;  they  well  knew  that  the 
plain  of  the  bufl'aloes  was  not  far  ofl',  and  they  expressed  by 
these  shouts  the  anticipated  pleasure  of  spreading  havoc 
among  the  peaceful  herds. 

Wishing  to  obtain  a  commanding  view  of  the  hunt,  I  got 
up  early  in  the  morning  and  quitted  the  camp  alone,  in  or- 
der to  ascend  a  hillock  near  our  tents,  from  which  I  might 

3* 


'fjT" 


I 


5    -| 


1, 

1     ! 
*|  iii' 


i 


it,  I 

I 

ij 


I 


I   I  ! 


!  ; 


if. 


it 


:  '1 

•'ii 


■  ;! 


i  if 

ill 

.r  I  ( 

.    •' 
it  I  •;» 


I 


■I'i 

iiil 


30 


Wolves  enjoying  a  Feast. 


fully  view  the  widely  extended  pasturages.  After  crossinf 
some  ravines,  1  reached  an  eminence,  whence  I  descried  a 
plain,  whose  radius  was  about  twelve  miles,  entirely  co- 
vered with  wild  oxen.  You  could  not  form,  from  any 
thing  in  your  European  markets,  an  idea  of  their  movement 
and  multitude.  Just  as  I  was  beginning  to  view  them,  I 
heard  shouts  near  me;  it  was  our  huntsmen,  who  rapidly 
rushed  down  upon  the  affrighted  herd — ihe  buffalos  fell  in 
great  numbers  beneath  their  weapons.  When  they  were 
tired  with  killing  them,  each  cut  up  his  prey,  put  behind 
him  his  favorite  part,  and  retired,  leaving  the  rest  for 
the  voracity  of  the  wolves,  which  are  exceedingly  nu- 
merous in  these  places,  and  they  did  not  fail  to  enjoy 
the  repast.  On  the  following  night  I  was  awakened  by  a 
confused  noise,  which,  in  the  fear  of  the  moment,  I  mistook 
for  impending  danger.  I  imagined,  in  my  first  terror,  that 
the  Pawnees,  conspiring  to  dispute  with  us  the  passage 
over  their  lands,  had  assembled  around  our  camp,  and  that 
these  lugubrious  cries  were  their  signal  of  attack. — 
"  Where  are  we,"  said  1,  abruptly,  to  my  guide.  "Hark 
ye  ! — Rest  easy,"  he  replied,  laying  down  again  in  his  bed  ; 
"  we  have  nothing  to  fear ;  it  is  the  wolves  that  are  howling 
with  joy,  afier  their  long  winter's  hunger :  they  are  making 
a  great  meal  to-night  on  the  carcasses  of  the  buffalos,  which 
our  huntsmen  have  left  after  them  on  the  plain." 

On  the  28th,  we  forded  the  southern  arm  of  the  river 
Platte.  All  the  land  lying  between  tjjis  river  and  the  great 
mountains  is  only  a  heath,  almost  universally  covered  with 
lava  and  other  volcanic  substances.  This  sterile  country, 
says  a  modern  traveller,  resembles,  in  nakedness  and  the 
monotonous  undulations  of  its  soil,  the  sandy  deserts  of 
Asia.  Here  no  permanent  Jwelling  has  ever  been  erected, 
and  even  the  huntsman  seldom  appears  in  the  best  seasons 
of  the  year.    At  all  other  times  the  grass  is  withered,  the 


A  barren  Desert, ' 


81 


er  crossing 
descried  a 
jntirely  co- 
from  any 
movement 
B\v  lliem,  I 
^Iio  rapidly 
'alos  fell  in 
ihey  were 
put  behind 
le   rest  for 
idingly  nu- 
ll lo  enjoy 
kened  by  a 
,  I  mistook 
terror,  that 
ihe  passage 
),  and  that 
attack. — 
"Hark 
in  his  bed  ; 
re  howling 
are  making 
OS,  which 

■  the  river 
d  the  great 
vered  with 
e  country, 
ss  and  the 
deserts  of 
!n  erected, 
!st  seasons 
hered,  the 


Blreams  dried  up;  the  bufTaio,  tlie  slag,  and  the  antelope, 
desert  these  dreary  plains,  and  retire  with  the  expiring 
verdure,  leaving  behind  them  a  vast  solitude  completely  un- 
inhabited. Deep  ravines,  formerly  the  beds  of  impetuous 
torrents,  intersect  it  in  every  direction,  but  now-a-days  the 
sight  of  them  only  adds  to  the  painful  thirst  which  tortures 
the  traveller.  Here  and  there  are  heaps  of  stones,  piled 
confusedly  like  ruins;  ridges  of  rock,  which  rise  up  before 
you  like  impassible  barrif-rs,  and  which  interrupt,  without 
embellishing,  the  wearisome  sameness  of  these  solitudes. 
Such  are  the  Black  Hills;  beyond  Uiese  rise  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  the  imposing  land-marks  of  the  Atlantic  world. 
The  parses  and  vallies  of  this  vast  chain  of  mountains 
afford  an  asylum  to  a  great  number  of  savage  tribes,  many 
of  whom  are  only  the  miserable  remnants  of  diflerent 
people,  who  were  formerly  in  the  peaceable  possession  of 
the  land,  but  are  now  driven  back  by  war  into  almost  inac- 
cessible defiles,  where  spolialioa  can  pursue  them  no 
fuither. 

This  desert  of  the  West,  such  as  I  have  just  described  it, 
seems  to  defy  the  industry  of  civilized  man.  Some  lands, 
more  advantageously  situated  upon  the  banks  of  rivers, 
might,  perhaps,  be  successfully  reduced  to  cultivation ; 
otiiers  might  be  turned  into  pastures  as  fertile  as  those  of 
the  East — but  it  is  to  be  feared  that  this  immense  region 
forms  a  limit  between  civilization  and  barbarism,  and  that 
bands  of  malefactors,  organised  like  the  Caravans  of  the 
Arabs,  may  here  practise  their  depredations  with  impunity. 
This  country  will,  perhaps,  one  day,  be  the  cradle  of  a  new 
people,  composed  of  the  ancient  savage  races,  and  of  that 
class  of  adventurers,  fugitives  and  exiles,  that  society  has 
cast  forth  from  its  bosom — a  heterogeneous  and  dangerous 
population,  which  the  American  Union  has  collected  like  a 


32 


Cause  of  haired  towards  the  ivhites. 


m 


III 


■|  'lll'^l' 


porlentoiis  cloud  upon  its  frontiers,  and  wliose  force  and 
irritation  it  is  constancy  increasing',  by  transporting  entire 
tribes  of  Indians  from  tlio  banks  of  the  iMississippi,  where 
they  were  born,  into  the  solitudes  of  the  West,  which  are 
assigned  as  their  place  of  exile.  These  savages  carry  with 
them  an  implacable  hatred  towards  the  whites,  for  having, 
they  say,  unjustly  driven  them  from  their  country,  far  from 
the  tombij  of  their  fathers,  in  order  to  lake  possession  of 
their  inheritance.  Should  some  of  these  tribes  hereafter 
form  tliemselves  into  hordes,  similar  to  the  wandering 
people,  partly  shepherds,  and  partly  warriors,  who  traverse 
with  their  flocks  the  plains  of  Upper  Asia,  is  there  not 
reason  to  fear,  that  in  process  of  time,  they  with  others,  may 
organize  themselves  into  bands  of  pillagers  and  assassins, 
having  the  fleet  horses  of  the  prairies  to  carry  them  ;  with 
the  desert  as  the  scene  of  their  outrages,  and  inaccessible 
rocks  to  secure  their  lives  and  plunder? 

On  the  4tli  of  June  we  crossed  the  Ramee,  a  tributary 
liver  of  the  Platte.  About  forty  tents  erected  on  its  banks, 
served  as  dwellings  for  a  part  of  the  tribe  of  the  Sheyennes. 
These  Indians  are  distinguishable  for  their  civility,  their 
cleanly  and  decent  habits.  The  men,  in  general,  are  of 
good  stature,  and  of  great  strength  ;  their  nose  is  aquiline, 
and  their  chin  strongly  developed.  Tlie  nei^^hboring  na- 
tions consider  them  the  most  courageous  warriors  of  the 
prairies.  Their  history  is  the  same  as  that  of  all  the  sava- 
ges who  have  been  driven  back  into  the  West — they  are 
only  the  shadow  of  the  once  powerful  nation  of  the  Sha- 
ways,  who  formerly  lived  upon  the  banks  of  the  Red  River. 
The  Scioux,  their  irreconcilable  enemies,  forced  them,  after 
a  dreadful  war,  to  pass  over  the  Missouri,  and  to  retreat 
behind  the  Warrican,  where  they  fortified  themselves  ;  but 
the  conquerors  again  attacked  them,  and  drove  them  from 


i  furce  and 
rting  entire 
ppi,  where 

which  are 

carry  with 
for  liaving, 
y,  far  from 
spession  of 
s  liercafler 
wandering 
ho  traverse 

there  not 
ttliers,  may 

assassins, 
hem  ;  with 
laccessible 

1  tributary 

its  banks, 

heyennes. 

iiy,  their 

al,  are  of 

aquiline, 

)oring  na- 

rs  of  the 

tlie  sava- 

tliey  are 

the  Sha- 

d  River. 

em,  after 

to  retreat 

ves  ;  but 

em  from 


4 


Travellers'  names  registered  on  a  rock. 


33 


I 


J 


post  to  post,  into 'he  mid  «  of  the  Black  Coasts,  situate 
upon  the  waters  of  the  Gr«.  .t  Sheyenne  River.  In  conse- 
quence of  these  reverses,  their  tribe,  reduced  to  two  ihou- 
gand  souls,  has  lost  even  its  name,  being  now  called 
Shcyennes,  from  the  name  of  the  river  that  protects  the 
remnant  of  the  tribe.  The  Sheyennes  have  not  since 
sought  to  form  any  fixed  establishment,  lest  the  Scioux 
should  come  again  to  dispute  with  them  the  lands  which 
they  might  have  chosen  for  their  country.  'J'hey  live  by 
hunting,  and  follow  the  buflalo  in  his  various  migrations. 

'J'he  principal  warriors  of  the  nation  invited  me  to  a 
solemn  banquet,  in  which  three  of  the  great  chief's  best 
dogs  were  served  up  to  do  me  honor.  1  had  half  a  one  for 
my  siiare.  You  may  judge  of  my  embarrassment,  when  I 
tell  you  that  I  attended  one  of  those  feasts  at  which  eveiy 
one  is  to  eat  all  that  is  oflored  to  him.  Fortunatelv,  one 
may  call  to  his  aid  another  guest,  provided  that  the  request 
to  perform  the  kind  ollice  be  accompanied  by  a  present  of 
tobacco. 

In  our  way  from  Ramee,  the  sojourn  of  the  Sheyennes, 
to  the  Green  River,  where  the  Flat  Heads  were  waiting  for 
me,  we  successively  passed  the  Black  Hills,  which  owe 
this  name  not  to  the  color  of  the  soil  and  rocks  that  form 
them,  but  to  the  sombre  verdure  of  the  cedars  and  pines 
that  shadow  their  sides ;  the  Red  Bute,  a  central  point  by 
which  the  savages  are  continually  crossing,  when  emigra- 
ting to  the  West,  or  going  up  towards  the  North  ;  and  the 
famous  rock,  Independence,  which  is  detached,  like  an  out- 
work, from  the  immense  chain  of  mountains  that  divide 
North  America.  It  might  be  called  the  great  registry  of 
the  desert,  for  on  it  may  be  read  in  large  characters  the 
names  of  the  several  travellers  who  have  visited  the  Rocky 
Mountains.     My  name  figures  amongst  so  many  others,  as 


'f?f»f- 


34 


Jin  enormons  Mountain. 


» 


that  of  tho  first  priest  who  has  visited  tiiese  solitary  regions. 
These  mountains  have  been  designated  the  backbone  of 
the  world.  In  fact  a  fitter  appellation  could  not  be  given  to 
these  enormous  masses  of  granite,  whose  summit  is  eleva- 
ted nearly  twenty-four  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea;  ihey  are  but  rocks  piled  upon  rocks.  One  might  think 
that  he  beheld  the  ruins  of  a  world  covered,  if  1  may  so 
speak,  with  a  winding-sheet  of  everlasting  snow. 

I  shall  here  interrupt  the  recital  of  my  journey,  to  give 
a  short  account  of  the  diflfcrent  tribes  of  the  mountains,  and 
of  the  territory  they  iiilubil.  I  will  join  with  my  own 
personal  observations  the  most  correct  infoimation  that  I 
could  possibly  obtain. 

The  Soshonees,  or  Rci  t-diggers,  appeared  in  great  num- 
bers at  the  common  rendezvous,  where  the  deputations  from 
all  the  tribes  assemble  every  year,  to  exchange  the  pro- 
ducts of  their  rude  industry.  They  inhabit  the  southern 
part  of  the  Oregon,  in  the  vicinity  of  California.  Their 
population,  consisting  of  about  ten  thousand  souls,  is  divi- 
ded into  several  parties,  scattered  up  and  down  in  the  most 
uncultivated  vj.arter  of  the  West.  They  are  called  Snakes, 
because  in  their  indigence  they  are  reduced,  like  such  rep- 
tiles, to  burrow  in  the  earth  and  live  upon  roots.  They 
would  have  no  other  food  if  some  hunting  parties  did  not 
occasionally  pass  beyond  the  mountains  in  pursuit  of  the 
buffalo,  while  a  part  of  the  tribe  proceeds  along  the  banks  of 
the  Salmon  lliver,  to  make  provision  for  the  winter,  at  the 
season  when  the  fish  come  up  from  the  sea.  Three  hun- 
dred of  their  warriors  wished,  in  honor  of  the  whites,  to  go 
through  a  sort  of  military  parade  :  they  were  hideously 
painted,  armed  with  their  clubs,  and  covered  over  with 
feathers,  pearls,  wolves' tails,  the  teeth  and  claws  of  animals 
and  similar  strange  ornaments,  with  which  each  of  them 


i 
} 


I  iiiiji 


Inhuman  jiratuef  towaraa  prifot    % 


ry  regions. 
ickbone  of 
be  given  to 
lit  is  eleva- 
evel  of  ihe 
night  think 
f  1  may  so 

■ 

cy,  to  give 
intains,  and 
h  my  own 
ition  that  I 

great  num- 
iations  from 
je  tlie  pro- 
le  southern 
lia.  Their 
lis,  is  divi- 
n  the  most 
d  Snakes, 
sucii  rep- 
ts.  They 
lies  did  not 
uit  of  the 
e  banks  of 
er,  at  the 
hree  hun- 
ites,  to  go 
hideously 
ver  with 
f  animals 
of  them 


I 


had  decked  himself,  according  to  his  ca[u  mm  Snrh  ti  had 
received  wounds  in  battle,  or  slain  the  <  ■  "  oF  their 
tribe,  showed  ostentatiously  llieir  scars,  and  had  lloaiingi 
in  the  form  of  a  standard,  the  scalps  whicii  they  won  from 
the  conquered.  After  having  rushed  in  good  order,  and  at 
full  gallop,  upon  our  camp,  as  if  to  take  it  by  assault  they 
went  several  times  round  it,  uttering  at  intervals  cries  of  joy. 
They  at  length  dismounted,  and  came  and  gave  their  hands 
to  all  the  whites  in  token  of  union  and  friendship. 

Whilst  I  was  at  the  rendezvous,  the  Snakes  were  prepar- 
ing for  an  expedition  against  the  Hlack-Fect.  When  a 
chief  is  about  to  wage  war,  he  announces  his  intention  to 
his  young  warriors  in  tiie  following  manner.  On  the  even- 
ing before  his  departure,  lie  makes  his  farewell  dance  before 
each  cabin ;  and  everywhere  receives  tobacco,  or  some 
other  present,  llis  friends  wish  him  great  success,  scalps, 
horses,  and  a  speedy  return.  If  he  brings  back  women  as 
prisoners,  lie  delivers  them  as  a  prey  to  the  wives,  mothers, 
and  sisters  of  his  soldiers,  who  kill  them  witjj  the  hatchet 
or  knife,  after  having  vented  against  their  unhappy  captives 
the  most  outrageous  insults:  "Why  are  we  unable," 
howl  these  furies,  "  to  devour  the  heart  of  thy  children,  and 
bathe  in  the  blood  of  thy  nation  !" 

At  the  death  of  a  chief,  or  other  warrior,  renowned  for 
his  bravery,  his  wives,  children,  and  relatives  cut  oil'  their 
hair:  this  is  a  great  mourning  with  the  savages.  The  loss 
of  a  parent  would  seem  but  little  felt,  if  it  only  caused  his 
family  to  shed  tears  ;  it  must  be  deplored  with  blood  ;  and 
the  deeper  the  incisions,  the  more  sincere  is  the  affection 
for  the  deceased.  "  An  overwhelming  sorrow,"  they  say, 
"  cannot  be  vented  unless  through  large  wounds."  I  know 
not  how  to  reconcile  these  sentiments  respecting  the  dead 
withtheir  conduct  towards  the  living.     Would  you  believe 


ffr 


to 


Singular  funeral  rites. 


i' 


HI 


I 


i , 


>  *\ 


that  these  men,  so  incon^olahlo  in  tlicir  mourninr^,  abandon, 
without  pity,  to  the  ferocious  beastu  of  the  desert,  the  old 
men,  the  «ick,  and  all  those  wliosc  existence  would  be  a 
burden  to  them  ? 

The  funeral  of  a  Snake  warrior  is  always  performed  by 
the  destruction  of  whatever  he  possessed  ;  nothing,  il  seems, 
should  survive  him  but  the  recollection  of  his  exploits.  Af- 
ter pilintj  up  in  his  hut  all  the  articles  he  made  use  of,  they 
cut  away  the  props  of  the  cabin,  and  set  the  whole  on  fire. 
The  Youts,  who  form  a  separate  people,  allhoiigh  they  be- 
long to  the  Iribo  of  the  Soslioncs,  throw  the  body  of  the 
deceased  upon  the  funeral  pile,  together  with  a  hecatomb  of 
his  best  horses.  The  moment  that  the  smoke  rises  in  thick 
cloudsi,  they  think  that  the  soul  of  the  savage  is  llying  to- 
wards the  region  of  spirits,  borne  by  the  iiuoics  of  his  faith- 
ful coursers  ;  and,  in  order  to  quicken  tlieir  llight,  thoy,  all 
together,  raise  up  frightful  yells.  Hut  in  general,  instead 
of  burning  the  body,  they  fasten  it  upon  his  favourite 
charger,  as  on  a  day  of  battle ;  the  animal  is  then  led  to 
llie  edge  of  a  neighboring  river,  the  warriors  are  drawn  up 
in  a  semicircular  form,  in  order  to  prevent  his  escape  ;  and 
then,  with  a  sliowcr  of  arrows,  and  a  universal  hurra,  thoy 
force  him  to  plunge  into  the  current  which  is  to  engulf  him. 
They  next,  with  redoubled  shouts,  lecommcnd  him  to  tran- 
sport his  master  without  delay  to  the  land  of  spirits.* 


*  Althoiio-h  this  mode  of  fimoral  exists  amongst  the  Snakes, 
it  is  not,  however,  common  to  all  the  Indian  tribes.  Amongst 
tlio  people  wiio  live  on  Uio  borders  of  I;iko  Abbitibbi,  in  Lower 
Canada,  as  soon  as  a  warrior  happens  to  die,  they  wrap  the  body 
in  a  shroud,  lower  it  into  a  {rrave  about  a  foot  and  a  lialf  deep,  and 
plaoe  alonrrsidc  it  a  pot,  a  knife,  a  gun,  and  such  other  articles  as 
arc  of  prime  necessity  to  the  savaj^os.  Sonii;  (hiys  after  the  bu- 
rial, the  relations  of  tlic  deceased  assend)ie  to  siufke  over  his 
fjrave.  They  then  hang  presents  upon  the  nearest  tree,  particu- 
arly  tobacco  fur  the  soul  of  the  deceased,  which  is  to  come  ocea- 


KHtimulc  of  vaiioiiH   Tribes. 


ijT,  abandon, 

scrt,  the  old 

would  be  a 

'rfornKul  by 

iig,  ilsocuH, 

:[)loil9.     Af- 

iisc  of,  ihey 

jolo  on  fire. 

igli  ihoy  be- 

body  of  the 

jjccatomb  of 

iscs  in  tiiick 

IS  Hying  to- 

of  Ms  faith- 

;ht,  thoy,  all 

oral,  instead 

is  favourite 

then  led  to 

e  drawn  up 

scape ;  and 

liurra,  they 

ngulf  him. 

iin  to  tran- 

ils.* 


|the  Snakps, 

Amongst 

],  in  Lower 

lap  tliobody 

If  deep,  and 

Ir  articles  as 

Ifior  tlie  bu- 

\q  over  his 

?e,  particu- 

;ome  occa- 


J  'riie  Sainpeelches  aie  ihc  next  neighbours  of  ihc  Snakts. 

There  is  not,  perhaps*,  in  iho  wliolu   worKI,   a  people  iti  :\ 


sionall}  ;ui(l  smoki'  upon  tlio  irravc,  wlurcllic  lioily  is  iaiil.  I'luy 
suppose  that  tlio  poor  soni  is  waiKlcrinir  not  I'lr  iVoiii  tht'iicc,  un- 
til the  l)o(ly  becoiiu-'s  pulrilied;  after  wiiieh  it  tlirs  up  to  lu-avcn. 
The  body  of  a  wicked  in.iii,  tiny  say,  takes  a  loii<fer  time  U)  cor- 
rupt than  that  of  a  good  man;  wliieli  pruloiios  his  piinishnu  iit. 
Sucdi,  ii\  their  o|iinion,  in  iIk;  otdy  punishment  of  a  had  life. 

in  Coliunhiii  wi;  tind  that  a  dilferent  custom  pn.'Vails.  There, 
so  soon  as  tin.' pi  rson  expires,  his  eyes  are  houml  with  a  necklaco 
of  ijlass  heads;  his  nostrils  fdled  with  aii|ua  (a  shell  used  by  the 
Indians  in  place  of  money),  and  ho  is  clothed  in  his  best  suit  and 
wrapped  in  a  wimliug-sheit.  Four  posts,  fi.vrd  in  the  gruniui, 
and  joined  hy  cross  beams,  support  the  lerial  tond)  of  the  savairc: 
the  tend)  itself  is  a  canoe,  placeil  at  a  certain  beiiiht  I'rom  tint 
ground,  upon  tho  beams  I  liivo  just  mentioned.  'I'ho  body  is 
deposited  therein,  with  the  faci>  downwatds,  .nnd  the  head  turned 
in  tho  same  direction  as  tho  course  of  the  liver.  .Some  mats 
thrown  u|)on  the  canoe  finish  the  ceremony.  Olferings,  of  which 
the  value  varies  with  the  rank  of  the  deceased,  are  next  presented 
to  him;  and  his  gun,  powder  born  and  shot-bag  are  placevl  at  his 
bides. 

Articles  of  less  value,  such  as  a  wooden  bowl,  a  lartjo  pot,  a 
hatchet,  arrows,  &c.  aie  hung  upon  polos  fixed  around  tho  canoe. 
Next  comes  the  tribute  of  wailing,  whieli  husbands  arul  wives 
owe  to  each  other,  and  to  their  dccteased  |)art;nl3,and  also  to  their 
children;  for  a  month,  and  often  lonirer,  tlu-y  continually  slieii, 
night  and  day,  tears,  accompanied  with  cries  and  groans,  that  are 
beard  at  a  great  distance.  If  the  canoo  ha|)pen  to  fall  down  in 
course  of  time,  the  remains  of  the  deceased  are  collected,  covered 
again  with  a  winding-sheet,  and  deposited  in  another  canoe — 
Extract  of  a  Idler  from  M.  Dtnicrs^  Mmionury  aiiwng  the  ^'«ra- 
fres  *■****, 

Some  individuals  of  other  tribes,  seen  by  Father  de  .Smet  on 
his  tour,  are  the  following:  Tho  Kootenays  and  the  Carriers, 
with  a  jjopulalion  of '1,(M)()  souls,  the  Savages  of  the  Lake,  who 
are  eompuled  at  about  500,  the  Oauldrons  GOO,  the  Okinaganes 
1,100,  the  Jantons  and  Santees  300,  the  .fantonnees  4,i300,  the 
Ulack-Feet  Scioux  1,500,  the  Two-('anldrons  800,  the  Ampapas 
2,000,  the  IJurned  '2,500,  the  Lack-Hows  1,000,  the  Minikomjoos 
2,000,  ibe  Ogallallees  1,500,  tbeSaoynes  2,000,  the  Unkepatines 
2,00u,  tlic  Mandans,  Big-Bellies,  and  Arikaraa,  w  bo  have  formed 
of  their  remnants  one  tribe,  3,000,  the  I'ierced-Noses,  2,500,  the 

4 


38 


Selling  their  Offspring. 


y.'\ 


I    1  '  Ji 


;l^l^; 


deeper  state  of  wretchedness  and  corruption  ;  the  French 
commonly  designate  them  *'  the  people  deserving  of 
pity,^^  and  this  appellation  is  most  appropriate.  Their 
lands  are  uncultivated  heaths;  their  habitations  are  holes 
in  the  rocks,  or  the  natural  crevices  of  the  ground, 
and  their  only  arms,  arrows  and  sharp-pointed  sticks.  Two, 
three,  or  at  most  four  of  them  may  be  seen  in  company, 
roving  over  their  sterile  plains  in  quest  of  ants  and  grass- 
hoppers, on  which  they  feed.  When  they  find  some  insi- 
pid root,  or  a  few  nauseous  seeds,  they  make,  as  they  ima- 
gine, a  delicious  repast.  They  are  so  timid,  that  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  get  near  them  ;  the  appearance  of  a  stranger  alarms 
them  ;  and  conventional  signs  quickly  spread  the  news 
amongst  lliem.  Every  one,  thereupon,  hides  himself  in  a 
hole;  and  in  an  instant  this  miserable  people  disappear  and 
vanish  like  a  shadow.  Sometimes,  however,  they  venture 
out  of  their  hiding  places,  and  offer  their  newly  born  in- 
fants to  the  whites  in  exchange  for  some  trifling  articles. 

I  have  had  the  consolation  of  baptizing  some  of  these 
unfortunate  beings,  who  have  related  to  me  the  sad  circum- 
stances which  1  have  just  mentioned.  It  would  be  easy  to 
find  guides  among  these   new  converts,  and  be  introduced 


I 


Kayuses  2,000,  the  Walla-Wallas  500,  the  Palooses  300,  the 
Spokanes  800,  the  Point(Ml- Hearts  700,  the  Crows,  the  Assin- 
boins,  the  Ottos,  the  Pawnees,  the  Santees,  the  Kenards,  the 
Aonays,  the  Kikapoux,  the  Delawares,  and  the  Shawanons, 
wl\ose  numbers  are  unknown.  The  Ibllowing  are  the  names  of 
the  principal  chiefs,  who  received  the  Missionary  in  their  tents: 
The  Big-Tnce  and  Walking-lkar,  the  Patriarchs  of  the  Flat- 
Heads  and  Ponderas;  the  Iron-Crow,  the  Good-Heart,  the  Dog's- 
lland,  the  Bhick-Eyes,  the  Man  that  does  not  eat  cow's  flesh, 
and  the  Warrior  who  walks  barolboLed;  the  last  named  is  chief 
of  the  Black-Feet  Scioux. 


•"i 


Future  Rewards  and  Punishments. 


39 


:  the  French 
Reserving  of 
:iate.  Their 
ins  are  holes 

the  ground, 
slicks.  Two, 
in  company, 
ts  and  grass- 
)d  some  insi- 

as  ihey  ima- 
hat  it  is  difli- 
anger  alarms 
^d   the  news 

himself  in  a 
iisappear  and 
ihey  venture 
wly  born  in- 
ig  articles. 
)me  of  these 

sad  circum- 

d  be  easy  to 
introduced 


)ses  300,  the 

IS,  the  Assin- 

|Kenar(]s,  the 

Shawanons, 

the  names  of 

\n  their  tents: 

of  the  Flat- 

rt,  the  Dog's- 

cow's  flesh. 

imed  is  chief 


t 


by  them  to  their  fellow  countrymen,  to  announce  to  them 
the  Gospel,  and  thus  to  render  their  condition,  if  not  hap- 
py, at  least  supportable  through  the  hope  of  a  belter  futurity. 
If  God  allows  nie  to  return  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
my  superiors  approve  of  it,  1  ahall  feel  happy  to  devote  my- 
self to  the  inslruciion  of  ihese  pitiable  people. 

The  country  of  the  Ulaws  is  situated  lo  the  east  and 
south  east  of  the  Soshonees,  at  the  sources  of  the  Kio  Colo- 
rado. The  population  consists  of  about  4,000  souls. 
Mildness,  alTability,  simplicity  of  manners,  hospitality  to- 
wards slrangers,  constant  union  amongst  themselves,  form 
the  happy  traits  in  their  character.  They  subsist  by  hunt- 
ing and  fishing,  and  on  fruits  and  roots ;  the  climate  is 
warm,  and  the  land  very  fii  for  cultivation. 

I  shall  join  to  this  account  a  brief  exposition  of  the  belief 
of  the  savages.  Their  religious  tenets  are  composed  of  a 
few  primitive  truths  and  of  gross  errors  :  they  believe  in 
the  existence  of  a  Supreme  Being,  the  source  of  every  good, 
and  consequently  that  he  alone  is  adorable ;  they  believe 
that  he  created  whatever  exists,  and  that  his  providence 
over-rules  the  principal  events  of  life,  and  that  the  calami- 
ties which  befall  the  human  race  are  chastisements  inflicted 
by  his  justice  on  our  perversity.  They  suppose,  that  with 
this,  their  God,  whom  they  call  the  Great  Spirit,  there 
exists  an  evil  genius,  who  so  far  abuses  his  power  as  to 
oppress  the  innocent  with  calamities.  They  also  believe 
in  a  future  life,  where  every  one  shall  be  treated  according 
to  his  works  ;  that  the  happiness  reserved  for  the  virtuous 
will  consist  in  the  enjoyment  of  such  goods  as  they  most 
anxiously  desired  upon  earth  ;  and  that  the  wicked  shall  be 
punished  by  suffering,  without  consolation,  the  torments 
invented  by  the  spirit  of  evil.     According  to  their  opinion, 


40 


4^  curious  Tradition. 


the  soul,  upon  its  entry  into  the  other  world,  resumes  the 
lorm  which  our  bodies  have  had  in  the  present  life.* 


•\    ■'!-} 


!:ii 


*  A  Canadian  Missionary,  who  lived  for  a  lonjj  time  among' 
tli(^  savng-es,  «rive&  ilic  following'  account  of  the  j)opular  tradition 
of  the  Indians  respecting  the  creation  of  the  world  : — "Water, 
they  say,   was  every  where  formerly;  and  VViskain,  a  spirit,  or 
sutjorditiate  deity,  commanded  the  castor  to  dive  into  it,  in  order 
to  procure  some  earth.     'J'he  castor  oheyed  the  order,  hut  he  was 
so  fat  that  he  could  not  possibly  descend  to  the  bottom,  and  he 
had  to  return  without  any  earth.     Wiskain,  nothing  dis(^ouragcd, 
charged  the  musk-rat  with  the  commission  which  the  castor  was 
unable  to  perform.     The  new  messenger  havinnr  remained  a  lonf 
while  \inder  water,  and  with  as  little  success  as  the  castor,  re- 
turned almost  drowned.     Tlie  rat  expected  that  ho  should  not  he 
rccjuiied  a  fccond  time,  as  he  had  already  nearly  lost  his  life. 
But  Wiskain,  who  was  noi  discouraged  by  obstacles,  directed 
the  rat  to  dive  again,  promising  him,  tliat  if  he  should  happen  to 
he  drowned,  he  (Wiskain)  would  restore  him  to  life.     'I'jie  rat 
dived  a  second  time,  and  made  the  greatest  efforts  to  comply  with 
Wiikain's  orders.     After  remaining  a  considerable  while  under 
the  water,  he  arose  to  the  surface,   but  so  exhausted  by  fatigue 
that  he  was  insensible.     Wiskain,  upon  a  careful  and  minute  ex- 
amination, finds  at  length  in  the  claws  of  the  poor  animal  a  little 
earth,  upon  which  he  hreathes  with  such  effect,  that  it  begins  to 
augment  rapidly.     \Yhen  he  had  thus  blown  for  a  long  time,  feel- 
ing anxious  to  know  if  the  earth  was  large  enough,  he  ordered 
the  crow,  which  at  that  period  was  as  white  as  the  swan,  to  fly 
round  it,  and  take  its  dimensions.     The  crow   did  accordingly, 
and  returned,  saying  that  the  work  was  too  small.     Wiskain  set 
about  blowing  upon  the  earth  with  renewed  ardour,  and  directed 
the  crow  to  make  a  second  tour  round  it,  cautioning  him,  at  the 
same  time,  not  to  feed  upon  any  carcass  that  he  might  see  on  the 
way.     The  crow  set  off  again  without  complaint,  and  found,  at 
the  place  which  had  heen  pointed  out,  the  carcass  which  lie  was 
forbidden  to  touch.     But,  having  grown  hungry  on  the  way,  and 
being  also,  perhaps,  excited  by  gluttony,  he  filled  himself   with 
the  infected  meat,  and  on  his  return  to   VViskain,  informed  him 
that  the  earth  was  large  enough,  and  that  he  need  not,  therefore, 
resume  his  work.     IJut  the  unfaithful  messenger,  at  his  return, 
found  himself  as  black  as  he  had  been  white  at  his  setting  out, and 
was  thus  punished  for  his  disobedience,  and  the  black  colour  com- 
municated to  his  descendants."  The  above  tradition,  which  bears 
some  striking  vestiges  of  the  tradition   respecting  original  sin, 


I '    t- 


A  joyful  meeting. 


41 


resumes  the 
t  life.* 


f  time  among 
tiilar  tradition 
d  :_"  Water, 
n,  a  spirit,  or 
to  it,  in  order 
T,  but  he  was 
ttom,  and  lie 
f  discouraged, 
lie  castor  was 
nained  a  lono- 
lie  castor,  re- 
sliould  not  be 
lost  Ilia   life. 
;les,  directed 
lid  happen  to 
ife.     The  rat 
comply  with 
while  under 
|d  by  fatigue 
"  minute  ex- 
mal  a  little 
t  begins  to 
time,  feel- 
le  ordered 
wan,  to  fly 
iccordingly, 
'  iskain  set 
d  directed 
im,  at  the 
see  on  the 
found,  at 
ich  he  was 
way,  and 
self   with 
•rmed  him 
therefore, 
lis  return, 
g  out,and 
our  com- 
lich  bears 
inal  sin, 


% 


What  I  am  going  to  add  applies  chiefly  to  the  tribe  that 
1  have  been  lately  instructing.  Besides  my  escort  of  Fiat 
Heads,  I  had  also  with  me  an  intrepid  Fleming,  John  Bap- 
tist de  Velder,  who  formerly  served  as  a  grenadier  under 
Napoleon.  From  the  battle  fields  of  Europe  he  betook 
himself  to  the  forests  of  the  New  World,  where  he  has 
passed  thirty  years  of  his  life  in  pursuit  of  beavers  and 
bears.  During  the  Missionary's  journey,  he  was  his  de- 
voted friend,  and  the  faithful  companion  of  his  dangers. 
He  has  now  taken  the  resolution  to  traverse  the  desert  only 
as  a  guide  to  the  apostles  of  the  Gospel.  He  had  almost 
forgotten  his  native  language,  except  his  prayers,  and  a 
hymn  in  honour  of  Mary,  which  his  mother  taught  him 
when  a  child,  and  which  he  daily  recited,  when  engaged  ia 
the  adventurous  chase. 

I  found  the  Flat  Heads  and  the  Ponderas  assembled,  to 
the  number  of  sixteen  hundred,  in  the  beautiful  Peters' 
Valley.  You  know  already  the  reception  they  gave  me, 
and  I  shall  never  forget  it.  The  enthusiastic  joy  with 
which  they  welcomed  my  arrival — the  exulting  shouts  of 
the  young  warriors — the  tears  of  the  aged,  returning  thanks 
to  the  Great  Spirit,  for  having  granted  them  the  favour  to 
see  and  hear  a  Black-Gown  before  their  death — that  scene, 
I  repeat  it,  I  can  never  forget.  I  shall  not  recount  the  reli- 
gious exercises  of  my  mission,  as  the  consoling  results  of 
them  have  been  already  communicated  to  you.     You  will, 


and  several  circumstances  of  the  deluge,  makes  no  mention  what- 
ever  of  the  creation  of  man  and  woman;  and,  however  illogical  it 
may  be,  it  is,  perhaps,  not  more  ridiculous  than  the  systems  of 
certain  pretended  philosophers  of  the  last  century,  who,  in  hatred 
of  revelation,  have  endeavoured  to  explain  the  formation  of  tho 
earth,  by  substituting  their  extravagant  reveries  for  the  Mosaic 
account. 


I.£ 


'(i  m 


ifll' 


42 


Manifestations  of  Prudence. 


perhaps,  lake  an  interest  in  reading  the  notes  1  have  col- 
lected regarding  the  character  and  habits  of  my  neophytes, 
during  a  sojourn  of  three  months  amongst  them  ;  living  like 
them,  by  the  chase  and  on  roots,  having  only  a  buflalo's 
hide  for  my  bed,  passing  my  nights  under  the  canopy  of 
heaven,  when  the  weather  was  calm,  or  taking  siielter  un- 
der a  small  tent  against  the  fury  of  the  tempest. 

With  regard  to  the  character  of  these  Indians,  it  is  en- 
tirely pacific.  They  never  fight,  except  in  circumstances 
of  lawful  defence;  but  they  are,  unforlupately,  often  reduc- 
ed to  this  said  necessity,  in  consequence  of  the  warlike  tem- 
per of  the  Black  Feet  tribe,  who  are  their  neighbours  and 
implacable  enemies.  That  marauding  people  appear  to  live 
only  for  murder  and  pillage.  They  are  the  terror  of  the 
savages  of  the  west,  who  endeavour,  as  much  as  possible, 
to  avoid  their  fatal  encounter.  But  should  the  Flat  Heads, 
notwithstanding  such  precaution,  be  forced  to  fight,  their 
courage  is  as  conspicuous  as  their  love  of  peace  ;  for  they 
rush  impetuously  on  their  adversaries,  whom  they  prevent 
from  escaping,  and  generally  make  them  pay  dear  for  their 
cruel  attacks. 

It  is  a  truth  which  has  become  proverbial  in  the  moun- 
tains, that  one  Flat  Head,  or  one  of  the  Ear  Rings,  is  worth 
four  Black  Feet.  If  the  band  of  the  latter  meets  a  detach- 
ment of  Flat  Heads,  of  equal  or  superior  numbers,  they 
forthwith  appear  disposed  for  peace,  unfurl  a  standard,  and 
present  a  pipe,  in  token  of  friendr^hip.  The  Flat  Heads 
always  accept  these  tokens  of  amity  ;  but  they  take  care  to 
make  their  enemies  sensible  that  the  motives  which  influ- 
ence their  conduct  on  such  occasions  are  fully  understood. 
"  Black  Foot,"  they  say,  "I  take  your  pipe,  but  be  assured 
that  I  am  aware  that  your  heart  is  disposed  for  war,  and 
that  your  hands  are  stained  with  murder.     Let  us  smoke 


A 


Liberty  subordinate  to  Authority. 


43 


1  have  col- 
neophytes, 
;  living  like 
'  a  buflalo's 
3  canopy  of 
shelter  un- 

)s,  it  is  en- 

•cumstaHces 

often  reduc- 

varlike  tem- 

;hbours  and 

)pear  to  live 

rror  of  the 

as  possible, 

Plat  Heads, 

fight,  their 

;  for  they 

ey  prevent 

r  for  their 

|the  moun- 
i,  is  worth 
a  detach- 
lers,  they 
idard,  and 
liat  Heads 
ke  care  to 
lich  influ- 
Iderstood. 
assured 
ar,  and 
Is  smoke 


'J 


together,  as  you  desire  it,  though  I  am  convinced  that  blood 
will  soon  be  made  to  flow." 

The  greatest  reproach  that  could  be  made  to  the  Flat 
Heads  was  their  excessive  love  for  games  of  chance,  in 
which  they  often  risked  all  they  possessed.  'J'he  Indians 
of  Colombia  carried  this  passion  to  an  almost  inconceivable 
degree;  for,  afier  losing  their  goods,  they  would  stake  their 
own  persons,  at  first  playing  for  one  hand,  then  for  the 
other;  and  if  the  game  continued  unfavorable  to  them,  they 
played  successively  for  every  one  of  tlieir  limbs,  and,  lastly, 
for  their  head,  wiiich,  if  they  lost,  they,  togeliier  with  their 
wives  and  children,  became  slaves  for  life. 

The  government  of  the  nation  is  confided  to  chiefs,  who 
have  merited  this  title  by  their  experience  and  exploits, 
and  who  possess  more  or  less  influence,  according  to  the 
degree  of  wisdom  and  courage  they  have  displayed  iii  coun- 
cil or  bailie.  The  chief  does  not  command,  but  seeks  to 
persuade ;  no  tribute  is  paid  to  him,  but,  on  the  contrary,  it 
is  one  of  the  appendages  of  his  dignity  to  contribute  more 
than  any  other  to  the  public  expense.  He  is  generally  one 
of  the  poorest  in  the  village,  in  consequence  of  giving  away 
his  goods  for  the  relief  of  his  indigent  brethren,  or  for  the 
general  interests  of  his  tribe.  Altliough  his  power  has 
nothing  imperious  in  it,  his  authority  is  not  tlie  less  abso- 
lute; and  it  may,  without  exaggeration,  be  asserted,  that 
his  wishes  are  complied  with  as  soon  as  known.  Should 
any  mutinous  individual  be  deaf  to  his  personal  command, 
the  public  voice  would  soon  call  him  to  account  for  his  ob- 
stinacy. I  know  not  of  any  government  where  so  much 
personal  liberty  is  united  with  greater  subordination  and 
devoledness. 

All  the  mountain  tribes  differ  somewhat  from  each  other 
in  their  dress.     The  men  wear  a  Ions  robe,  made  of  the 


44 


Decorations. 


I'l*  -»^ 


'    '}  ■  ;ii 


;<    !'■  1 


ii  '-'f 


1,;; 


skins  of  the  antelope  or  sheep,  with  shoes  and  gaiters  of 
doe  or  dog's  skin,  and  a  biifTalo  liide  cloak,  covered  with 
woollen  cloth,  painted  in  various  colours.  The  Indian 
loves  to  add  ornament  to  ornament :  his  long  hair  is  decked 
with  various  kinds  of  feathers,  and  a  great  number  of  rib- 
bando,irings  and  shells.  In  order  to  givt  suppleness  to  his 
limbs,  he  rubs  his  body  with  bear's  grease,  over  which  he 
spreads  a  thick  layer  of  vermillion.  Children  under  seven 
years  of  age  are  scarcely  ever  clothed,  except  in  winter; 
they  are  afterwards  dressed  in  a  sort  of  tunic,  made  of 
skins,  which  is  open  under  the  arms.  They  spend  whole 
days  amusing  themselves  in  the  water,  and  sometimes  even 
in  the  mire.  The  women  wear  a  large  pelerine,  adorned 
with  elks'  teeth  and  several  rows  of  pearls.  Amongst  the 
Arikaras,  their  grand  dress  consists  of  a  fine  chemise,  with 
doe-skin  shoes  and  gaiters,  embroidered  in  brilliant  colours. 
A  quiver  filled  with  arrows  is  suspended  from  the  left 
shoulder;  and  a  cap  of  eagles'  feathers  adoins  the  brow  of 
warriors  and  huntsmen.  lie  that  has  killed  an  enemy  on 
his  own  land  is  distinguished  by  having  the  tails  of  wolves 
tied  on  his  legs ;  the  bear-killer  wears,  for  a  trophy,  the 
claws  of  that  animal  as  a  necklace  ;  ihe  privilege  of  a  savage 
who  has  taken  in  bailie  one  or  more  scalps,  is  to  have  a  red 
hand  painted  on  his  mouth,  to  show  that  he  has  drunk  the 
blood  of  his  enemies.  The  Indian  is  not  less  proud  of  his 
horse,  the  companion  of  all  his  excursions  and  of  all  his 
dangers,  and  the  friend  to  which  he  becomes  extremely  at- 
tached. The  head,  breast,  and  the  flanks  of  the  noble  ani- 
mal are  covered  with  scarlet  cloth,  adorned  with  pearls  and 
fringes,  to  which  are  attached  a  multitude  of  little  round 
bells.  Cleanliness  is  a  quality  not  possessed  by  the  savage, 
nor  are  the  women  more  particular  in  this  respect  than  the 
men;  for  they  never  wash  their  pots  or  saucepans ;  and  at 


J 


I 


J 


Honesty  and  Hospitality. 


45 


nd  gaiters  of 

lovered  with 

The  Indian 

air  is  decked 

mber  of  lib- 

Icness  to  his 

er  which  he 

under  seven 

it  in  winter ; 

ic,    made   of 

spend  whole 

lelimes  even 

ine,  adorned 

A^mongst  the 

leniise,  with 

iant  colours. 

om   the  left 

the  brow  of 

1  enemy  on 

s  of  wolves 

trophy,  the 

of  a  savage 

have  a  red 

drunk  the 

oud  of  his 

of  all  his 

Iremely  at- 

noble  ani- 

pearls  and 

little  round 

le  savage, 

t  than  the 

s ;  and  at 


their  meals  thcv  often  make  use  of  their  straw  hats,  which 
have  no  leaf,  instead  of  bowls. 

As  I  before  mentioned,  the  only  prevailing  vice  that  1 
found  amongst  the  Flat  Heads  was  a  passion  for  games  of 
chance — it  has  since  been  unanimously  abolished.  On  the 
other  hand,  they  are  scrupulously  hones^^l  in  buying  and  sel- 
ling. 'J'hey  have  never  been  accused  of  stealing.  When- 
ever any  lost  article  is  found,  it  is  immediately  given  to  the 
chief,  who  informs  the  tribe  of  the  fact,  and  restores  it  to 
the  lawfid  owner.  Detraction  is  a  vice  unknown  even 
amongst  the  women  ;  and  falsehood  is  particularly  odious 
to  them.  A  forked-tongue  (a  liar)  they  say,  is  the  scourge 
of  a  people.  Quarrels  and  violent  anger  are  severely  pun- 
ished. Whenever  any  one  happens  to  fall  into  trouble,  his 
neighbors  hasten  to  his  aid.  The  gaiety  of  their  disposi- 
tion  adds  a  charm  to  their  union.  Even  the  stranger  is  re- 
ceived as  a  friend;  every  tent  is  open  to  him,  and  that 
which  he  prefers  is  considered  the  most  honored.  In  the 
Rocky  Mountains  they  know  not  the  use  of  locks  or  bolts. 

In  looking  at  this  picture,  which  is  in  nowise  overdrawn, 
you  will  perhaps  ask,  are  these  the  people  whom  civilized 
men  call  barbarians  ?  We  have  been  too  long  erroneously 
accustomed  to  judge  of  all  the  savages  by  the  Indians  on  the 
frontiers,  who  have  learned  the  vices  of  the  whites.  And 
even  with  respect  to  the  latter,  instead  of  treating  them  with 
disdain,  it  would  perhaps  be  more  just  not  to  reproach 
them  with  a  degradation,  of  which  the  example  has  been 
given  them,  and  which  has  been  promoted  by  selfish  and 
deplorable  cupidity. 

The  country  inhabited  by  tlie  Flat  Heads  is  as  picturesque 
as  their  lives  are  innocent.  We  often  met  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  several  encampments  of  the  tribe,  majestic  tor- 
rents, forests  with  trees  that  have  been  growing  for  ages, 


i 


111/' 


rifl 


'I:  I: 


I  '' 'i'i' 


li'?' 


II 


IP 


»!^-ft, 


il^l 


mi' 


46 


Sublimitij  of  Mountain  Prospects. 


anil  pastures  covered  with  the  traveller's  tea,  which,  al- 
though trampled  by  iiuinherless  liorses,  embalms  the  air 
with  its  delightful  Ira^francc.  We  continually  beheld  a 
grand  succession  of  lofty  mountains  ;  some  delifrhied  the 
sight  by  their  blooming  verdure  and  the  imposing  appear- 
ance of  the  woods  that  crowned  their  summits,  while  others, 
as  red  as  brick,  bore  the  impressions  of  some  great  convul- 
sion of  nature.  At  the  base  of  the  latter  may  be  seen  piled 
up  layers  of  lava,  and  at  their  tops  the  ancient  craters  are 
easily  distinguished.  One  day,  as  the  tribe  was  proceeding 
towards  the  banks  of  the  lake  Henry,  I  felt  a  desire  to  as- 
cend to  the  top  of  a  mountain,  situate  between  the  waters 
of  the  Colombia  and  the  Missouri,  in  the  hope  of  disco- 
vering the  exact  place  where  those  two  great  rivers  rise, 
and  the  distance  between  them.  I  succeeded  in  finding  one 
of  their  sources :  they  form  two  torrents,  which,  being  di- 
vided where  they  rise,  by  the  distance  of  scarce  a  hundred 
paces,  continually  diverge  as  they  descend  towards  the 
plain.  Their  course  over  the  rocks  presents  an  enchanting 
sight :  they  do  not  flow  along,  but  roll  from  cascade  to  cas- 
cade i  and  nothing  is  comparable  to  the  beauty  of  their 
bounding  waters,  except  the  distant  noise  of  their  fall,  re- 
peated by  the  echoes  of  the  solitary  mountains. 

Finding  it  impossible  to  get  to  the  highest  top  of  the 
mountain  that  overlooks  these  sources,  I  stopped  when  I 
had  reached  an  elevation  of  5,000  feet.  I  then  cast  my 
eyes  upon  the  immense  region  that  lay  extended  at  my 
feel;  I  contemplated  to  myself  all  the  tribes  upon  the  banks 
of  the  Missouri,  as  far  as  Council  BlufTs  :  I  thought  on  my 
dear  colleagues,  who  are  sent  by  Providence,  like  angels 
of  salvation,  amongst  these  savage  hordes  ;  and  I  considered, 
with  mixed  feelings  of  joy  and  grief,  their  labors,  consola- 
tions, and  hopes,  and  how  disproportionate  is  their  number 


i- 


•Kb 


*'?  pathetic   Separation. 


47 


,  which,  al- 
ilms  the  air 
iy  beheld  a 
Blighied  the 
sing  appear- 
vhiie  others, 
reat  convul- 
e  seen  piled 
t  craters  are 
=.  proceeding 
desire  toas- 
1  the  waters 
pe  of  disco- 
rivers  rise, 
n  finding  one 
ch,  being  di- 
ce a  hundred 
towards  the 
enchanting 
cade  to  cas- 
uty  of  their 
leir  fall,  re- 
top  of  the 
)ed  when  I 
len  cast  my 
Inded  at  my 
In  the  banks 
ight  on  my 
like  angels 
jonsidered, 
rs,  console- 
ieir  number 


to  the  people  requiring  the  aid  of  their  ministry.  Kind 
people,  what  futurity  awaits  thee  ?  Holy  Missioners, 
what  recompense  is  reserved  for  your  self-devotion  ?  1 
remembered  that  they  and  I  have  in  heaven  a  powerful  in- 
tercessor, in  the  illustrious  founder  of  our  Society  ;  and  in 
order  to  interest  him  in  our  dear  missions,  from  the  summit 
of  that  mountain  from  which  I  could  nearly  view  them  all, 
1  placed  them  under  his  protection.  I  would  fain  persuade 
myself  that  he  will  not  prove  forgetful  of  his  followers, 
who  are  endeavoring  to  plant  i!ie  (lospel  in  these  countries 
where  it  lias  hitherto  been  unknown.  Additional  apostolic 
teachers  will  come  hither  to  assist  us  by  their  zeal,  before 
the  vices  of  civilization  and  the  proselytism  of  error  have 
multiplied  the  obstacles  to  the  propagation  of  that  faith 
which  all  the  savages  so  anxiously  desire  to  know,  and 
which,  like  the  Flat  Heads  and  the  Ponderas,  they  would 
practise  with  gratitude  and  fidelity. 

The  27ih  of  August  was  the  day  I  fixed  upon  for  my 
departure.  Seventeen  warriors,  chosen  from  amongst  the 
bravest  of  the  two  nations,  and  under  the  command  of  three 
chiefs,  arrived  early  in  the  morning,  before  the  entrance  of 
my  cabin.*     The  council  of  the  ancients  appointed  them  to 

*  Asa  beautiful  specimen  of  an  affecting  farewell  address,  we 
lake  from  the  journal  of  a  Canedian  Missionary  the  following 
discourse  spoken  by  one  of  the  savages  of  the  Red  River,  to  the 
Black-Gown  who  had  converted  them,  when  he  was  about  leaving 
them.  After  expressing,  in  tlie  name  of  all  the  Indians  of  his  lo- 
cality, the  grief  which  they  felt  at  the  Missionary's  departure,  he 
added  the  following  words,  which  prove  tlieir  gratitude  to  the 
worthy  Priest,  who  had  brought  to  them  the  truths  of  salvation, 
and  to  the  members  of  tlio  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the 
Faith,  whoso  charity  had  procured  them  so  great  a  benefit: — 

"  Dear  Father,  you  are  going  to  leave  us,  but  we  hope  to  see 
you  again.  Wo  aro  quite  sensible  that  you  naturally  wish  to  see 
your  relations  and  friends,  your  towns  and  country — we  shall  find 


I 


III!  ■'      t|:  ' 


'■! 


li 


'.!  ( 


.III    5 


i::  lu- 


ll! J  'ill I 

J.   t  ■  ir 


111: 


['I  'J 


¥ 


I"    .^! 


'  1 


If 


48 


Process  for  Protection. 


serve  as  my  escort  while  I  sliuiild  be  in  the  comitry  ol'  the 
Uiack  Feel  and  of  lh»)  Crows.  Of  these  two  tribes,  so  hos* 
tile  to  the  whiles,  the  former  never  gives  them  quarter,  and 
the  latter  will  sometimes  spare  their  lives  oidy  to  leave 
them,  after  having  robbed  them  of  every  thing,  to  die  of 
hunger  in  the  desert.  As  we  were  liable,  every  instant,  to 
fall  into  some  ambush,  we  had  scouts  sent  in  all  directions 
to  reconnoitre  the  place  and  examine  the  detiles  ;  and  the 
smallest  trace  of  a  man  having  passed  before  us,  was  mi- 
nutely examined.  And  here  we  cannot  sulliciently  admire 
the  wonderful  sagacity  with  which  Providence  has  en- 
dowed the  savage:  he  will  tell  you,  from  the  mere  foot- 
marks, the  exact  day  on  which  the  Indian  had  erected  his 
lent  on  the  spot,  and  how  many  men  and  horses  had  been 
there ;  whether  it  was  a  detachment  of  warriors  or  a  com- 
pany of  hunters,  and  the  nation  to  which  they  belong.  We 
selected,  every  evening,  a  favorable  site  for  our  camp,  and 
raised  around  it  a  little  fort  with  the  trunks  of  dry  tk '>es,  in 
order  to  protect  ourselves  against  any  surprise  during  the 
night. 


the  time  of  your  absence  very  long,  but  the  winter  is  soon  over.— 
We  conceived  it  to  bo  our  duty  to  assemble  before  your  departure, 
and  to  express  our  feelings.  We  shall  only  say  these  few  words  : 
we  formerly  led  very  wicked  lives,  and  we  know  this  day  to  what 
destruction  wc  were  hastening.  There  was  a  thick  cloud  before 
our  eyes;  you  have  dispersed  it;  we  seo  the  sun.  We  shall 
never  forget  what  you  have  done  and  suffered  for  us. — Go  now, 
go  and  tell  the  Prayers,  those  hind  Prayert--,  who  take  pity  on  us; 
who  love  us  without  knowing  us;  and  who  send  as  priests;  go  and 
tell  them  that  savages  know  iiow  to  remember  a  benefit;  go  and 
tell  them  that  we  also  pray  for  them,  in  the  desire  which  we  feel 
to  know  them,  one  day,  in  the  abode  of  our  common  Father.  Set 
out,  but  return  and  instruct  those  whom  you  have  baptized:  leave 
us  not  forever  in  affliction ;  depart,  and  in  the  meanwhile  remem- 
ber that  we  are  counting  the  days." 


W 


Objects  of  Terror. 


19 


iitry  ol'  ihe 
bes,  80  hos' 
uarler,  and 
ily  lo  leave 
,  to  ilio  of 
instant,  to 
1  directions 
s  ;  and  the 
IS,  was  mi* 
rjlly  admire 
ce  has  en* 
mere  foot- 
erected  his 
;s  had  been 
s  or  a  com- 
lelong.   We 
camp,  and 
ry  tr'^es,  in 
wring  the 


lOon  over. — 
departure, 
'ew  word3  : 
Joy  to  what 
jloiid  before 
We  shall 
. — Go  now, 
pity  on  us; 
sts ;  go  and 
t ;  go  and 
ch  we  feel 
ther.  Set 
zed :  leave 
le  remem- 


This  region  is  the  retreat  of  griz/ly  bears,  the  most  Icrri- 
bic  animals  of  tlio  desert,  whose  strength  cciuals  their  daring 
and  voraciiv.  I  ii:ive  been  assured  thai  by  a  single  slrok<f 
of  his  paw,  one  of  these  animals  tore  away  four  ribs  of  a 
buflaU),  which  fell  dead  at  his  feet.  He  seldom  attacks 
man,  unless  when  he  has  been  surprised  and  wounded. — 
An  Indian,  however,  belonging  to  my  escort,  in  passing  by 
a  thick  wood  of  sallow  trees,  was  assailed  by  one  of  these 
ferocious  beasts,  that  sprung  furiously  upon  his  horse,  fixed 
his  formiJable  claws  in  his  back,  and  brought  him  to  the 
ground.  The  horseman  fortunately  was  not  mounted  at 
the  time,  and  having  his  gun  in  his  hand,  the  bear  instantly 
disappeared  in  the  depths  of  the  forest. 

On  the  5ih  of  .Sej)tcmbt  r  we  crossed  a  defile,  which  had 
been  passed  shordy  before  by  a  numerous  troop  of  horse- 
men. Whether  they  were  allies  or  enemies,  we  had  no 
means  to  discover.  I  will  here  observe,  that  in  these  im- 
mense solitudes,  although  the  howling  of  wolves,  the  his- 
sing of  venomous  serpents,  the  roaring  of  the  tiger  and  the 
bear  be  calculated  to  affright,  yet  this  terror  is  nothing  in 
comparison  with  the  dread  excited  in  the  traveller's  soul, 
upon  seeing  the  fresh  tracks  of  men  and  horses,  or  columns 
of  smoke  rising  in  the  neighborhood.  At  such  a  sight,  the 
escort  at  once  assembles  and  deliberates  ;  each  one  exam- 
ines his  fire-arms,  sharpens  his  knife  and  the  point  of  his 
arrow,  and  makes,  in  a  word,  every  preparation  for  a  resis- 
tance, even  to  death  ;  for,  to  surrender,  in  such  circum- 
stances, would  be  to  expose  one'sself  to  perish  in  the  most 
frightful  torments.  The  path  that  we  were  following  led 
us  to  a  heap  of  stones,  piled  upon  a  small  eminence  ;  they 
were  stained  with  blood,  lately  spilt;  my  escort  examined 
them  with  a  mournful  attention.  The  principal  chief,  a 
man  possessed  of  much  sense,  said  to  me,  in  a  solemn 


M 


no 


Ceremony  of  Xcp^otiadon. 


I 


n 


I 


i;pi; 


p 


tone,  •»  rmlirr,  1  think  I  oucrhi  to  give  you  an  explanation 
of  what  wn  aro  h)okin;,'  at.  'i'he  Crows  are  not  far  oil":  in 
two  hours  we  shall  sec  them.  If  I  bo  not  rnistiikon,  we 
are  upon  one  of  their  fields  of  battle  ;  and  here  their  nation 
must  have  met  with  some  great  loss.  This  monument  has 
been  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  warriors,  who  fell  be- 
neath the  blows  of  their  enemies.  Here  the  mothers, 
wives  and  daughters  of  them  that  died,  have  been  weeping 
over  their  tombs.  It  is  customary  for  the  women  to  tear 
iheir  faces,  to  make  deep  cuts  in  their  legs  and  arms,  and 
to  water  these  tumulary  piles  with  streams  of  blood.  Had 
we  arrived  sooner,  wo  should  have  heard  their  cries  and  fu- 
neral lamentations."  He  was  not  mistaken,  as  we  imme- 
diately perceived  a  considerable  troop  of  savages  at  a 
league's  distance.  They  were  the  Crows,  who  were  re- 
turning to  their  camp,  after  having  paid  the  tribute  of  blood 
lo  lorty  of  their  warriors,  who  were  massacred  two  years 
before  by  the  tribe  of  the  lilack  Feet.  Being  at  present  the 
allies  of  the  Flat  Heads,  they  received  us  with  transports  of 
joy.  There  were  groups  of  women  with  them,  and  so  dis- 
figured as  to  excite  both  pity  and  horror.  This  scene  of 
grief  is  renewed  every  year,  when  they  pass  near  the  tombs 
of  their  relations. 

The  chiefs  of  the  Crows  wished  to  cement,  by  a  great 
feast,  their  alliance  with  the  tribe  of  our  neophytes.  As  the 
language  of  the  two  nations  is  very  different,  the  conversa- 
tion was  made  by  signs.  I  shall  endeavor  to  describe  this 
dumb  language,  by  mentioning  to  you  how  a  bargain,  at 
which  I  was  present,  was  concluded.  A  young  Crow,  of 
gigantic  size,  and  clad  in  his  best  garments,  advanced  into 
the  midst  of  the  assembly,  leading  his  horse  by  the  bridle, 
and  placed  him  before  the  Flat  Head,  with  whose  horse  he 
ofTered  lo  make  an  exchange.  The  Flat  Head  took  no 
notice  of  him,  and  kept  in  an  immovable  attitude.     The 


i 


Tribe  of  Murniukrs. 


61 


cxplanntioi) 
I  far  ofl":  in 
isfiikon,  we 
their  nation 
niiincnt  has 
who  (ell  be- 

0  mothers, 
en  weeping 
men  to  tear 

1  arms,  and 
lood.  Had 
rics  and  (u- 
3  we  irnme- 
vagcs  at  a 
lo  were  re- 
ite  of  blood 
I  two  years 
present  the 
ansports  of 

nd  so  dis- 

scene   of 

the  tombs 

by  a  great 
es.  As  the 

conversa- 
scribe  this 
inrgain,  at 

Crow,  of 
inced  into 
[\\e  bridle, 
horse  he 
took  no 

le.    The 


Crow  then  placed,  successively,  at  the  feet  of  the  pellur, 
his  gun,  his  scarlet  niunlle.  his  oiuamenls,  \\U  trailers, 
and,  lastly,  his  hhocs.  Tlic  Flat  lh':ul  then  took  ilio 
liorse  by  the  bridle,  picked  up  the  cloihcs,  (V.,c  ,  and  the 
sale  was  concluded  wiilioui  saying'  a  word.  'I'he  ('row, 
tliough  so  divested,  joyfully  ujouiilcd  his  new  courser,  and 
rode  several  limes  round  the  i;anip,  shouting  in  Iriunipli, 
and  puUiu;,'  his  horse  through  all  his  paces. 

The  principal  wealth  of  the  savages  of  the  west  consists 
in  horses,  of  which  each  chief  and  warrior  jiossesses  a  great 
number,  that  may  be  seen  grazing  about  their  e  imp.  'i'he 
horses  of  the  ('rows  are  principally  ol  the  Maroon  race  of 
the  prairies.  They  have  also  many  horses  which  they 
liavc  stolen  from  the  Sciuux,  the  Shoyeiines,  and  other  In- 
dians of  the  south-west,  which  they  had  in  their  turn  stolen 
from  the  Spaniards  of  Mexico.  The  Crows  are  considered 
the  most  indelaligable  marauders  of  the  desert;  they  tra- 
veriie  the  mountains  in  all  directions,  brinj^ing  to  one  side 
what  they  have  taken  at  the  other.  The  name  of  Aisha- 
roke,  or  Crow,  has  been  given  to  them  on  account  of  their 
robberies.  They  are  practised  from  their  infancy  in  this 
sort  of  larceny,  and  they  acquire  a  surprising  dexterity  in 
it;  their  gloiy  augments  with  the  number  of  their  captures, 
so  that  a  tinishtd  robber  is  in  their  eyes  a  hero.  I  accom- 
panied for  two  days,  these  savages,  who,  I  think,  were  the 
finest  Indians  I  had  met  in  all  my  travels.  They  passed 
the  whole  time  in  rejoicings  and  feasting.  You  wdl  not  be 
scandalized,  I  trust,  when  I  tell  you  that  I  was  present  at 
twenty  dillerent  banquets.  I  was  scarcely  sealed  in  one 
cabin,  when  I  was  called  lo  partake  of  the  festive  entertain- 
ment in  another. 

We  arrived,  at  last,  at  the  first  fort  belonging  to  the  Fur 
Company.  The  Americans,  who  have  here  a  trading  post, 
received  us  most  cordially.   At  this  place  I  was  to  part  with 


•P 


rJ:  ■  r 


52 


III    "  'I 


i":f 


Escape  from  Danger. 


I   -^ 


M 


;..!)» 


'!i  =:^"1'' 


:i! 


;;'  if 'i 

■l  lit 


I  III  ' 
I 


h 


my  faithful  Flat  Heads.  I  therefore  told  them,  that,  hav- 
ing before  me  a  country  still  more  exposed  to  the  incursions 
of  the  Black  Feet,  the  Assiniboins,  the  Big  Bellies,  the  Ari- 
karas,  and  Scioux,  all  of  whom  are  declared  enemies  of  their 
tribe,  I  would  no  longer  peril  their  lives,  on  account  of  my 
personal  safety ;  that  as  for  my  life,  I  placed  it  in  the  hands 
of  God,  and  that  I  felt  a  persuasion  it  would  be  preserved, 
in  order  tliat,  accompanied  by  new  Missionaries,  I  might 
immediately  return  to  ihem.  I  exhorted  ihem  for  the  last 
time  to  remain  faiihfid  to  the  Great  Spirit.  We  emiiraced 
each  other,  wishing,  mutually,  a  happy  return  ;  and  shortly 
after,  accompanitd  by  my  faithful  Fleming,  I  disappeared 
from  their  sight  amiJdt  the  solitary  defiles.  We  were  to 
pass  over  several  hundred  miles  of  country,  where  no  road 
is  yet  traced,  and,  like  the  navigator  on  the  boundless 
ocean,  with  no  other  guide  than  the  compass.  For  a  long 
time  we  followed  the  course  of  the  Yellow  Stone,  except 
when  perpendicular  rocks  arrested  oui  progress  and  obliged 
us  to  take  a  circuit.  In  many  places  we  discovered  forts 
which  the  savages  are  in  the  habit  of  raising  for  defence,  or 
for  concealing  themselves,  when  they  are  at  war,  or  wailing 
for  their  prey.  Perhaps,  at  the  moment  of  our  passing,  they 
were  not  without  enemies.  What  a  solitude,  willi  its  hor- 
rors and  dangers  !  but  it  possesses  one  real  advantage  :  with 
death  constantly  befoi'e  our  eyes,  we  irresistibly  feel,  with- 
out the  possibility  of  illusion,  that  we  are  entirely  in  the 
hands  of  God,  without  any  support  but  Him,  without  any 
other  refuge  than  his  paternal  providence  ;  it  is  then  easy  to 
make  to  Him  the  sacrifice  of  a  life  which  belongs  less  to  us 
than  to  the  first  savage  who  wishes  to  take  it,  and  to  form 
the  most  generous  resolutions  of  which  man  is  capable.  It 
was  really  the  best  spiritual  retreat  that  I  made  in  my  life. 
The  second  day  of  the  journey,  on  awaking,  I  perceived, 
at  the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  the  smoke  of  a  great 


Precaution  for  Safcli/. 


53 


,  that,  hav- 
incursions 
Bs,  the  Ari- 
ies  of  their 
Hint  of  iny 
the  hands 
preserved, 
3,  I  mi^ht 
ir  the  last 
embraced 
nd  shortly 
^appeared 
3  were  to 
e  1)0  road 
boundless 
^or  a  long 
e,  except 
d  oblijjed 
red  forts 
(  nee,  or 
wailing 
ng,  ihey 
its  hor- 
e  :  with 
I,  with- 
y  in  the 
out  any 
easy  to 
ss  to  us 
to  form 
3le.     It 
ny  life, 
ceived, 
a  great 


:< 


fire — a  point  of  a  rock  was  all  that  separated  us  from  a  de- 
tachment of  Indians.  Without  a  moment's  delay  we  sad- 
dled our  horses  and  set  olf,  galloping  with  all  speed  along 
the  ravines  and  beds  of  dried  up  torrents.  We  rode  that 
day,  without  resting,  more  than  fifteen  leagues,  and  we  did 
not  encamp  until  two  hours  after  sunset,  lest  the  savages, 
having  observed  our  track,  should  think  of  pursuing  us. — 
The  same  fear  prevented  us  from  lighting  a  fire,  which 
ol)liged  us  to  dispense  with  supper.  1  wrapped  myself  in 
my  blanket,  stretched  myself  on  the  grass  beside  my  com- 
panion, and  having  recommended  myself  to  God,  I  endea- 
vored to  beguile  hunger  by  sleep.  iMy  grenadier,  more 
courageous  than  I,  soon  snored  like  a  steam  engine  in  full 
play. 

The  next  morning  we  were  on  our  way  at  day-break  ;  we 
advanced  with  caution,  for  the  country  appeared  full  of 
danger.  Towards  mid-day  we  met  a  new  subject  of  alarm 
— we  found  a  buffalo,  w^hich  had  been  killed  about  two 
hours  previously.  We  thrilled  at  the  sight,  when  we 
thought  that  the  enemy  was  not  far  olT;  and  yet  we  had 
reason  to  thank  the  Lord  for  having  prepared  the  food  for 
our  evening  meal.  The  follow^ing  night  we  encamped 
ar»iong  rocks,  which  are  the  retreat  of  tigers  and  bears.  I 
have  already  said  that  the  dens  of  the  wild  beasts  inspire 
incomparably  less  terror  to  the  traveller  than  the  hut  of  the 
savage.  I  this  time  slept  heavily  and  well.  We  always 
commenced  our  journey  early  in  the  morning,  and  each  day 
had  new  dangers  to  face,  and  to  meet  occasionally  the  fresh 
traces  of  men  and  horses.  One  day  we  had  to  cross  a  field 
of  tents,  which  had  been  recently  abandoned  ;  the  fires 
were  not  quite  extinguished  ;  but  happily  we  met  no  one. 
At  length  we  saw  again  the  Missouri  at  the  very  place, 
where  an  hour  before,  a  hundred  families  of  the  Assiniboins 
had  passed  over  it.     The  foregoing  is  only  a  sketch  of  the 

6* 


Ik 


iiU 


•I 

i  it; 
■  ' 

I--; 


M 
'"II  'I'.i 


1,1, :  f 
i 


li        III 


ih 


16    '  '^ 


!! 


!    '\' 


i  '■■4 


iW 


■iJMilii 


I'M 

I   If; 


y\ 


v;i 


1;  '     III 


^iliji 


54 


Abundance  of  Game. 


long  and  perilous  journey  which  we  made  from  the  fort  of 
ihe  Crows  to  fort  Union,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yel- 
low Stone  river. 

AH  the  country  watered  by  this  river  abounds  in  game  ;  I 
do  not  think  that  there  is  in  all  America  another  place  better 
suited  for  hunting:  we  were  continually  amidst  vast  herds 
of  buffalos  ;  we  frequently  discovered  groups  of  ma- 
jestic elks  bounding  over  the  plains,  whilst  clouds,  if  I  may 
say  so,  of  antelopes  were  flying  before  us  with  the  swift- 
ness of  the  wind.  The  Ashata,  or  Big  Horn,  alone  ap- 
peared not  to  be  disturbed  at  our  presence:  we  saw  them  in 
groups,  reposing  on  the  edges  of  the  precipices,  or  sporting 
on  the  points  of  the  steep  rocks.  The  black-tailed  roebuck, 
so  richly  dressed  in  its  brown  coat,  frequently  excited  our 
admiration,  by  its  elegant  shape,  and  abrupt,  animated 
movements,  in  which  it  appears  scarcely  to  touch  ;':•  mh 
with  its  feet.  I  have  already  spoken  of  the  grizzly  ,.  it, 
which  are  here  to  b,e  met  with  in  abundance,  as  well  as  ttie 
wolves,  panthers,  badgers  and  wild  cats.  Often  the  tra- 
veller sees  the  prairie  hen  and  the  cock  of  the  moun- 
tain start  up  from  the  midst  of  the  heath.  The  lakes  and 
rivers  are  k^overed  with  swans,  geese  and  ducks :  the  indus- 
trious beaver,  the  otter,  and  the  muskrat,  together  with  the 
fishes,  are  in  peaceable  possession  of  their  solitary  waters. 

The  Arikaras  and  the  Big  Bellies,  who  had  been  descri- 
bed to  us  as  most  dangerous,  received  us  as  friends,  when- 
ever we  met  them  on  our  way.  Before  selling  out  (or  war, 
they  observe  a  strict  fast,  or  rather  they  abstain  from  all 
food  for  four  days.  During  this  interval  their  imagination 
is  excited  to  madness ;  and,  either  from  the  effect  of  weak- 
ness, or  the  warlike  projects  which  fill  their  minds,  they 
pretend  that  they  have  extraordinary  visions.  The  elders 
and  sages  of  the  tribe  arc  called  upon  to  interpret  th'^se  re- 


'■<-. 


Twenty  Warriors  killed. 


65 


the  fort  of 
•f  the  Yel- 

n  game ;  I 
lace  better 
i^ast  herds 
5    of   ma- 
ll if  I  may 
the  swift- 
alone  ap- 
V  ihem  in 
r  sporting 
I  roebuck, 
ccited  our 
animated 
'.h(^    irt-h 
ily  ■ .-  •■•£■, 
ell  as  ttie 
the  tra- 
le  moun- 
akes  and 
le  indus- 
with  the 
waters. 
1  descri- 
,  when- 
for  war, 
rem  all 
'ination 
*  weak- 
s,  they 
elders 
'ise  re- 


veries ;  and  they  pronounce  them  to  be  more  or  less  favo- 
rable to  the  undertaking.  Their  explanations  are  received 
as  oracles,  according  to  which  the  expedition  is  scrupulous- 
ly regulated.  Whilst  the  preparatory  fast  endures,  the 
warriors  make  incisions  in  their  bodies,  and  bury  in  the 
flesh,  under  the  shoulder-blade,  pieces  of  wood,  to  which 
they  attach  leather  thongs,  by  which  they  are  suspended 
from  a  stake,  fixed  horizontally  over  the  brink  of  a  chasm  a 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep.  They  even  sometimes  cut  off 
one  or  two  fingers,  which  they  ofTer  as  a  sacrifice  to  the 
Great  Spirit,  in  order  that  they  may  return  loaded  with 
scalps. 

In  a  recent  expedition  against  the  Scioux,  tiie  Arikaras 
killed  twenty  warriors  of  the  hostile  tribe,  and  piled  up  the 
corpses  in  the  middle  of  their  village.  The  solemn  dance 
of  victory  then  commenced,  at  which  men,  women,  the 
aged,  and  children  assisted.  After  having  celebrated,  at 
length,  the  exploits  of  the  biave,  they  rushed,  like  wild 
beasts,  upon  the  mangled  and  bloody  bodies  of  the  Scioux, 
parcelled  them  amongst  themselves,  and  fixed  the  hideous 
trophies  to  the  end  of  long  poles,  which  they  carried  in 
proud  triumph  around  the  village. 

It  is  impossible  to  form  an  idea  of  the  cruelty  that  pre- 
sides over  the  barbarous  revenge  of  those  tribes,  who  are 
constantly  occupied  in  mutual  destruction.  As  soon  as  the 
savages  learn  that  the  warriors  of  a  rival  nation  have  set 
out  for  the  chase,  they  unexpectedly  attack  the  enemy's  de- 
fenceless camp,  and  massacre  the  women,  old  men,  and 
children  in  the  cradle.  Wo  to  the  men  who  are  spared  ; 
their  agony  is  deferred  in  order  to  render  it  more  terrible. 
At  other  times  they  lie  in  wail  in  their  enemy's  path,  and 
allow  the  detachment  to  pass  on,  until  they  have  in  their 
power  such  a  portion  of  it  as  must  infallibly  become  their 


% 


1    : 


f 


m  I 


56 


Lamentations  for  the  Slain. 


u4  I 


Ml 


i'l 


m 

prey  ;  whereupon  ihey  raise  the  death  cry,  and  pour  upon 
the  enemy  a  shower  of  balls,  arrows,  and  pieces  of  roclv ; 
this  movement  is  the  signal  of  extermination  :  the  battle 
becomes  a  massacre :  the  sights  of  horror  which  would 
freeze  the  heart  of  any  civilized  man,  serve  only  to  inflame 
the  fury  of  the  savage  :  he  outrages  his  prostrate  rival, 
tramples  on  his  mangled  carcass,  tears  off"  his  hair,  wallows 
in  his  blood  with  the  delight  of  a  tiger,  and  often  devours 
the  quivering  limbs  of  the  fallen,  while  they  have  scarcely 
ceased  to  exist. 

Such  of  the  vanquished  as  have  not  fallen  in  the  combat 
are  reserved  to  adorn  the  triumph,  and  are  conducted  pri- 
soners to  the  village  of  the  conquerors.  The  women  come 
to  meet  the  returning  warriors,  amongst  whom  they  seek 
with  anxious  looks  their  husbands  and  brothers :  if  they 
discover  them  not,  they  express  their  grief  by  terrific  howl- 
ing. One  of  the  warriors  soon  commands  silence;  he  then 
gives  the  details  of  the  foitunate  expedition;  describes  the 
place  selected  for  the  ambuscade,  the  consternation  of  the 
waylaid  tribe,  the  bravery  of  the  assailants,  and  recounts 
the  number  of  the  dead  and  of  the  captives.  To  this  reci- 
tal, which  is  made  with  all  the  intoxication  of  victory,  suc- 
ceeds the  calling  over  the  names  of  the  warriors :  their  ab- 
sence tells  they  are  no  more.  The  piercing  cries  of  the 
women  are  then  renewed  ;  and  their  despair  presents  a 
scene  of  frenzy  and  grief,  which  exceeds  all  imagination. 
The  last  ceremony  is  the  proclaiming  of  victory.  Every 
one  instantly  forgets  his  own  misfortunes;  the  glory  of  the 
nation  becomes  the  happiness  of  ail;  by  an  inconceivable 
transition,  they  pass  in  a  moment  from  frantic  grief  to  the 
most  extravagant  joy. 

I  know  not  what  terms  to  use  in  order  to  describe   the 
torments  which  they  inflict  on  the  wretched  prisoners:  one 


Tv 


k 


Cannibalism. 


67 


our  upon 

of  rock  ; 

he  battle 

ill  would 

3  inflame 

ite  rival, 

wallows 

devours 

scarcely 

3  combat 
3ted  pri- 
encome 
ley  seek 
if  they 
ic  howl- 
he  then 
ibes  the 
of  the 
ecounts 
is  reci- 
y,  suc- 
eir  ab- 
of  the 
ents  a 
nation. 
Every 
of  the 
ivabie 
to  the 

e   the 
:  one 


plucks  olT  their  nails,  another  tears  away  their  flesh  ;  red 
hot  irons  are  applied  to  every  part  of  their  bodies ;  they  are 
flayed  alive,  and  their  palpitating  flesh  is  devoured  as  food. 
The  women,  who,  in  other  nations,  are  more  accessible  to 
the  feelings  of  pity  than  the  men,  here  shew  themselves 
more  thirsty  for  revenge,  and  more  ingenious  in  the  barba- 
rous refinement  of  cruelty.  Whilst  this  horrible  drama 
goes  on,  the  chiefs  are  gravely  seated  about  the  stake  at 
which  the  victim  is  writhing.  'J'he  latter  appears  to  be  only 
intent  on  conquering  his  anguish  :  often  has  the  prisoner 
been  seen  to  brave  his  executioners,  and  with  a  stoic  cool- 
ness exclaim,  "  I  fear  not  death  ;  those  who  are  afraid 
of  your  torments  are  cowards  ;  a  woman  of  my  tribe 
would  despise  them.  Shame  upon  my  enemies  ;  they  have 
not  even  the  power  to  force  from  me  a  tear.  In  order  to 
take  me,  they  supplied  their  weakness  by  stratagem  ;  and 
now,  to  revenge  themselves,  they  have  assembled  an  entire 
people  against  one  man,  and  they  arc  unable  to  triumph  over 
him — the  cowards  !  Oh,  if  they  were  in  my  place,  how  I 
would  devour  them,  how  I  would  sip  from  their  accursed 
skulls  the  last  drop  of  their  blood  !" 

The  great  village  of  the  Arikaras  is  only  ten  miles  dis- 
tant from  that  of  the  Mandaiis.  I  was  surprised  to  see 
around  their  habitations  large  and  well  cultivated  fields  of 
maiz.  The  latter  Indians  still  manufacture  earthern  vases, 
similar  to  those  which  are  found  in  the  ancient  tombs  of  the 
savages  of  the  United  States,  and  which,  according  to  anti- 
quaries, are  presumed  to  have  belonged  to  a  race  much  more 
ancient  than  that  which  now  peoples  the  desert  of  the  west. 
The  jugglers  of  the  Arikaras  enjoy  a  good  reputation,  and 
exercise  considerable  influence  over  their  credulous  coun- 
trymen ;  they  pretend  to  have  communication  with  the  spi- 


iil ;  ■ 


I 


II 


!■ 


'  'I 

m 


i 


■i  a 


'^ 


I 

1 

1 ' 

/ 

'it 

«ij 

s 

:: .,  ■' 


■-^*"-lll 


uhl'i'ii 


1  i!B 


'11j!!iil 


«ij!?li-|.# 


ii  I* 


ii-;i 


'mil 


58 


Jugglery. 


rit  of  darkness.  They  will  fearlessly  plunge  llieir  arm  into 
boiling  water,  having  previously  rubbed  it  with  a  certain 
root;  they  also  swallow,  without  any  ill  efi'eut,  substances 
on  fire,  as  well  as  shoot  arrows  against  themselves.  The 
following  is  one  of  the  most  singular  of  their  tricks,  and 
one  which  the  Indian  sorcerer  was  unwilling  to  perform  in 
my  presence,  because  my  medicine  (meaning  my  religion) 
was  superior  to  his.  He  had  his  hands,  arms,  legs,  and 
feet,  tied  with  well-knotted  cords ;  he  was  then  enclosed  in 
a  net,  and  again  in  a  buffalo's  skin.  The  person  who  tied 
him  had  promised  him  ahorse  if  he  extricated  himself  from 
his  bonds.  In  a  minute  after,  the  savage,  to  the  amaze- 
ment of  the  spectators,  stood  before  him  perfectly  free. 
The  commandant  of  the  neighbouring  fort  offered  him  ano- 
ther horse,  if  he  would  reveal  to  him  his  secret.  The  sor- 
cerer consented,  saying,  "Have  thyself  tied  ;  I  have  at  my 
command  ten  invisible  spirits  :  I  will  detach  three  of  them 
and  put  them  at  thy  service :  fear  them  not,  they  will  ac- 
company thee  everywhere,  and  be  thy  tutelary  genii."  The 
commandant  was  disconcerted,  or  unwilling  to  make  the 
trial,  and  thus  the  matter  terminated.* 

The  last  observation  which  I  have  to  make  concerns  the 
redoubtable  tribe  of  the  Scioux.  Whoever,  amongst  these 
savages,  dies  in  a  quarrel  provoked  by  drunkenness,  or  as 


*  Jufjtrleries  are  much  practised  among  the  savajjes,  althougli 
many  of  them  consider  them  as  so  many  impostures.  Mr.  Bel- 
court,  who  witnessed  a  great  many  of  lliem,  always  succeeded 
in  discovering  the  deception.  One  of  the  most  celebrated  jug- 
glers acknowledged,  after  his  conversion  to  Christianity,  that  all 
their  delusion  consists  in  their  cleverness  in  preparing  certain 
tricks,  and  in  the  assurance  vvith  which  they  predict  to  others 
what  they  themselves  know  not,  and,  above  all,  in  the  silly  cre- 
dulity of  their  admirers.  They  are  like  our  own  calculators  of 
horoscopes. — Extract  from  the  Journal  of  a  Mmionary  in  Canada. 


arm  into 
a  certain 
ibstunces 
IS.  The 
icks,  and 
irform  in 
religion) 
3gs,  and 
::losed  in 
wlio  tied 
'elt  from 
''  amaze- 
ily  free, 
lim  ano- 
riie  sor- 
'e  at  my 
of  them 
will  ac- 
"  The 
ke  the 

rns  the 
t  these 
I,  or  as 


I)iss:race  attached  to  Drunkenness. 


50 


the  victim  of  the  revenge  of  a  felh^w  countryman,  receives 
not  the  ordinary  honours  of  burial;  he  is  interred  without  ce- 
remony and  without  provisions.  The  most  glorious  death 
for  them  is  to  expire  in  fighting  the  enemies  of  their  na- 
tion. Their  bodies  are,  in  that  case,  rolled  in  hiilTaloes' 
skins  and  placed  upon  a  raised  platform,  near  their  camps 
or  highways.  From  some  conversations  I  have  had  with 
the  chiefs  of  this  tribe,  I  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  a 
mission  would  pro  .1  •  amongst  them  the  most  consoling 
effects. 

I  arrived,  at  length,  at  Council  Bluffs.  It  would  be  vain 
for  me  to  attempt  to  express  what  I  felt,  on  finding  myself 
again  in  the  midst  of  my  brethren:  I  had  travelled  two 
thousand  Flemish  leagues  amongst  the  most  barbarous  na- 
tions, where  I  had  no  sooner  escaped  one  danger  than  I  met 
with  another.  From  Council  Bluffs  to  Westport,  a  fron- 
tier city  of  the  Missouri,  I  pursued  my  journey  without 
obstacle  or  accident.  At  Independence,  I  took  the  public 
conveyance,  and  on  the  eve  of  the  new  year,  I  embraced 
my  dear  Fathers  of  the  University  of  St.  Louis. 

Recommending  myself  to  your  prayers, 
I  am  yours,  &c. 

P.  J.  I)e  Smet. 


i/i' 


though 
tr.  Bel- 
cceeded 
ed  jug- 
that  all 


certain 
others 
ly  ora- 
tors of 
Canada. 


>  Hi 


I 


LETTER  111. 


.If  '  vi; 


Banks  of  the  Platte,  2il  June,  1841. 
Rev.  and  Very  Dear  Father  Provincial : 

Behold  us  at  last  on  our  way  towards  the  long  wished  for 
•'  Rocky  Mountains,"  already  inured  to  the  fatigues  of  the 
journey  and  full  of  the  brightest  hopes.  It  is  now  after- 
nuon  and  we  are  sitting  on  the  banks  of  a  river,  which,  it  is 
said,  has  not  its  equal  in  the  world.  The  Indians  call  it 
Nebraska  or  Big  Horn  ;  the  Canadians  give  it  the  name  of 
la  Platte,  and  Irving  designates  it  as  the  most  wonderful  and 
useless  of  rivers.  The  sequel  will  show  that  it  deserves 
these  various  affixes.  It  was  to  enjoy  the  freshness  and 
beauty  of  its  scenery  that  we  travelled  more  than  twenty 
miles  this  morning,  without  breaking  our  fast,  through  a 
wilderness  without  a  single  rivulet  to  water  our  jaded  horses, 
who  must  therefore  rest  where  they  are  till  to-morrow.  I 
am  far  from  regretting  the  delay  as  it  will  give  me  an  op- 
portunity of  commencing  a  letter  which,  I  know,  will  inte- 
rest you. 

Like  all  the  works  of  God,  our  humble  beginnings  have 
not  been  unattended  with  trials  :  our  journey  had  even  well 
nigh  been  indefinitely  postponed  by  the  unexpected  non- 
arrival  of  two  caravans  on  which  we  had  confidently  relied; 
one  of  hunters,  for  the  American  Fur  Company  ;  the  other 
an  exploring  expedition  belonging  to  the  United  States,  at 
the  head  of  which  we  expected  to  see  the  celebrated  M. 
Nicolet.     Happily  God  inspired  two  estimable  travellers, 


; 


i,t 


I'f  ■ 


'  il 


Departure  for  the  Rochj  JMountaim. 


61 


of  whom  more  hereafter,  and  afiorwards  sixty  o'.liers,  lo 
take  tlie  samo  route  as  ourselves,  some  for  health,  others 
for  science,  or  pleasure;  but  the  greater  number  to  seek 
iheir  fortune  in  the  loo  iiighly  boasted  hmd  of  (Jalifornia. 
Tliis  caravan  formed  an  extraordinary  niixlure  of  dilTerent 
nations,  every  country  of  Europe  having  in  it  a  representa- 
tive, my  own  little  band  of  eleven  persons  hailing  from 
eight. 

The  difTicnllies  of  selling  out  once  overcome,  many  others 
followed  in  succession.  We  had  need  of  provisions,  fire- 
arms, implements  of  every  kind,  waggons,  guides,  a  good 
hunter,  an  experienced  captain, — in  a  word,  whatever  be- 
comes necessary  when  one  has  to  traverse  a  desert 
of  eight  hundred  leagues,  and  expects  nothing  but  for- 
midable obstacles  to  surmount,  and  thieving,  and  sometimes 
murderous,  enemies  to  combat, — and  swamps,  ravines  and 
rivers  to  cross,  and  mountains  to  climb,  whose  craggy  and 
precipitous  sides  suddenly  arrest  our  progress,  compell- 
ing us  to  drag  our  beasts  of  burden  up  their  steep  ascents. 
These  things  are  not  done  without  toil  and  money,  but 
thanks  to  the  generous  charity  of  our  friends  in  Philadel- 
phia, Cincinnati,  Kentucky,  St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans, 
which  place  1  visited  in  person  and  which  is  always  at  the 
head  of  the  others  when  there  is  a  question  of  relieving  the 
necessities  of  the  poor,  or  showing  compassion  and  muni- 
ficence to  any  who  may  be  in  need  of  assistance,  we  were 
enabled  by  the  resources  thence  supplied,  and  by  a  portion 
of  the  funds  allowed  by  the  Lyons  Association  in  behalf  of 
the  Indian  iMissions,  to  undertake  this  long  journey. 

You  have  already  learned  from  ray  letters  of  the  past 
year,  that  I  was  specially  sent  among  the  Flat  Heads  to 
ascertain  their  dispositions  towards  the  "  Black  Robes," 
whom  they  had  so  long  desired.     I  therefoie  started  from 

6 


m 


W 


I 


}:, 


s  •,;.' 


■\i  till 

f  I'll 


n  »!J 


02 


Jiemlczvotis  at  Colorado. 


il;'i    u'i 


.  f 


■i' 


JSt.  Louis  in  April,  1840,  and  arrived  on  the  banks  of  the 
Colorado  prtcisely  ai  ihe  nionjunl  when  a  band  of  Flat 
Heads  reached  ihat  point  on  their  way  to  meet  nie.  It  was 
the  rendezvous  1  had  given  them.  Besides  the  Fiat  Heads 
I  visited  during  iliui  journey,  many  other  tribes,  such  as 
the  Pends-d'orc'ilhs  (Ear  Kin^s),  Nez  Ferccs  (Fierccd 
Noses),  (Jhcyonnes,  tSerpcnts,  Crows,  Cos  ventres  or  Mi- 
iialarecs,  Kicaias,  Mandans,  Kaiizas,  the  numerous  nations 
of  the  Scioux,  iVc.  Finding  every  where  such  good  dispo- 
sitions, 1  resolved,  notvvilhslanUiiig  the  approach  of  winter 
and  frequent  attacks  of  fever,  in  order  to  second  the  visible 
ilenigns  of  the  divine  mercy  in  favor  of  so  many  souls,  to 
commence  my  journey  across  the  immense  ocean  of  moun- 
tains and  prairies.  I  have  travelled  without  any  other  guide 
than  a  compass,  without  any  protection  from  nations  hostile 
to  the  whites,  but  a  veteran  from  Client,  formerly  a  grenadier 
of  the  Empire,  any  other  provisions  in  an  arid  desert,  than 
what  powder  and  ball  and  a  strong  conlulence  in  God  might 
procure  us.  1  shall  not  here  repeat  what  I  have  already 
communicated  to  you,  of  my  adventures  and  the  result  of 
this  mission.  It  will  suffice  to  say,  that  the  unexpected 
quickness  of  my  return  to  St.  Louis,  the  excellent  health  1 
enjoyed,  even  though  it  was  the  midst  of  winter,  and  the 
consoling  accounts  I  had  to  give  of  my  reception  by  the 
Flat  Heads,  &;c.  &c.,  all  contributed  to  make  the  most 
lively  impression  on  the  hearts  of  our  brethren.  Almost 
every  one  thought  himself  called  to  share  the  labors  of  a 
mission  which  oflered  so  many  attractions  to  their  zeal. 
After  due  deliberation,  the  fellow-laborers  allotted  me  were 
five  in  number,  namely  two  Faihers,  Rev.  Mr.  Point  of  La 
Vendee,  as  zealous  and  courageous  for  the  salvation  of  souls 
as  his  compatriot,  La  Roche  Jacquelin  was  in  the  service  of 
his  lawful  sovereign  ;  Rev.   Mr.  Mengarini,  recently  from 


(A 


^^ nival  at  J f 'est port. 


98 


Rome,  specially  selected  by  the  Father  (Icneral  himself, 
(or  this  mission,  on  account  of  his  age,  his  viriues,  his  great 
facility  for  languages  antl  his  knowledge  of  inedicine  and 
music;  and  three  lay-broilicrs,  two  Belgians,  Claesscns 
and  lluct,  and  one  Germ-xn,  of  whom  t!io  (irsi  is  a  black- 
smith, the  second  a  carpenter,  and  the  third  a  tinner,  or  a 
sort  o{  factotum;  all  three  industrious,  devoted  to  the  Mis- 
sions and  full  of  good  will.  They  had  long  ardently  de- 
sired to  be  employed  on  these  missions  and  I  thank  God 
that  had  the  choice  been  left  to  myself,  I  could  have  made 
none  better.  Thus  launched  into  the  midsi  of  this  intermi- 
nable Far  AVcst,  how  often  did  1  repeat  these  beautifullines 
of  Raoine : 

O  Dicii,  par  qucllcs  routes  inconnues  aiix  mortels 
Ta  Sairessc  conduit  tcs  desscins  etcruels  ! 

In  seven  days  from  my  departure  from  St.  Louis,  name- 
ly, on  the  30th  of  April,  I  arrived  at  Westport,  a  frontier 
town  on  the  West  of  the  United  States.  It  took  us  seven 
days,  on  board  a  steamboat,  to  perform  this  journey  of  900 
miles,  no  unfair  average  of  the  time  required  to  travel  such 
a  distance  on  the  Missouri,  at  the  breaking  up  of  the  winter, 
when,  though  the  ice  is  melted,  the  water  is  still  so  low, 
the  sand  banks  so  close  together  and  the  snags  so  numerous 

that  boats  cannot  make  greater  headway We 

landed  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  and  took  refuge  in  an 
abandoned  little  cabin,  where  a  poor  Indian  woman  had 
(lied  a  few  days  before,  and  in  this  retreat,  so  like  to  that 
which  once  merited  the  preference  of  the  Saviour  and  for 
which  was  thenceforth  to  b?  substituted  only  the  shelter  of 
a  tent  in  the  wilderness,  we  took  up  our  abode  until  the 
10th  May — occupied  as  well  we  might  be  in  supplying  the 
wants  created  by  the  burning  of  our  baggage  waggon  on 
board  the  steamboat,  the  sickness  of  one  of  our   horses 


w 


11 


Hr 


\Wx 


iM^f 


I 


i  I 


'M^* 


Qi 


Indian  FAiquetU. 


which  we  were  compelled  to  leave  after  us,  and  the  loss  of 
another  that  escaped  from  us  at  the  moment  of  landing. 

We  started,  then,   from    Westporl,  on  the  lOlhofMay, 
and  after  having  passed  by  the  lands  of  the  Shavvnees  and 
Delawares,  wlurc  wo  saw  nulhing  remarkable   but  the  col- 
lege of  the  Methodists,  built,  it  is  easy  to  divine  for  what, 
where  the  soil  is  richest;  wo  arrived  after  five  day's  march 
on  the  banks  of  the  ivanzas  river,  where  wo  found  those  of 
our  companions,  who  had  travelled  by  water,  with  a  part 
of  our  baggage.     Two  of  the  rtlalives  of  the  grand  chief 
had  come  twenty  milts  from  that  place  to  meet  us,  one  of 
whom  helped   our  horses  to  pass   the  river  in  safety,  by 
swimming  bcfoic  them,  and  the  other  announced  our  arri- 
val to   the  principal  men  of  the  tribe  who  wailed  for  us  on 
the  opposite  bank.     Our  baggage,  waggons  and  men  cross- 
ed in   a  pirogue,  which,  at  a   distance,  looked  like  one  of 
those  gondolas  that  glide  through  the  streets  of  Venice.    As 
soon  as  the  Kanzas  understood  that  we  were  going  to  en- 
camp on  the  banks  of  the  Soldier's  Kiver,  which  is  only  six 
miles  from  the  village,  they  galloped  rapidly  away  from  our 
Caravan,  disappearing  in  a  cloud  of  dust,  so  that  we  had 
scarcely  pitched  our  tents  when  the  great  Chief  presented 
himself  with  six  of  his  bravest  warriois,  to  bid  us  welcome. 
After  having  made  me  sit  down  on  a  mat  spread  on  the 
ground,  he,  with  much  solemnity,  took  from  his  pocket  a 
Portfolio  containing  the  honorable  titles  that  gave  him  a 
riglit  to  our  frielld^hip  and  placed  them  in  my  hands.     1 
read  them,  and  having,  wiih  the  tact  of  a  man  accustomed 
to  the  etiquette  of  savage  life,  furnished  him  the  means  of 
smoking  the  Calmei,  he  made  us  accept  for  our  guard  the 
two  braves  who  had  come  to  meet  us.     Both  were  armed 
like  warriors,  one  carrying  a  lance  and  a  buckler,  and  the 
other  a  bow  and  arrows,  with  a  naked  sword  and  a  collar 


the  I068  o( 
unding. 
iiIj  of  May, 
iwnccs  and 
jul  ihe  col- 
'i  for  wliai, 
ay's  march 
id  those  of 

ilh  a  ])art 
jraiid  ciiief 
us,  ono  of 
safity,  by 

I  our  arri- 
for  us  on 

men  cross- 
like  one  of 
enice.    As 
ling  to  en- 
is  only  six 
y  from  our 
lat  we  had 
presented 
welcome, 
ead  on  the 
i  pocket  a 
ive  him  a 
jiands.     1 
^customed 
means  of 
guard  the 
Gre  armed 
r,  and  the 

II  a  collar 


n 


m 


M 


K-  1 


iM 


5 


i  I  iii'i 


II 


til:: 


h|| 


m 


^ 


N 


Hi 


,!>  ■*.: 


N 

-•'; 


<5 

■•■3 


< 


< 


^n  Indian   Vll/afire. 


05 


made  of  il)e  claws  of  four  bears  whicli  he  had  killed  with 
his  own  liiind.  These  two  braves  remained  faithful  at  their 
post  during  the  three  days  and  three  nights  that  we  had  to 
wait  the  coming  np  of  the  stragglers  of  the  caravan.  A  small 
f)resenl  which  we  made  them  at  our  departure,  secured  us 
their  friendship. 

On  the  I9th  we  continued  our  journey  to  the  number  of 
seventy  souls,  fifty  of  whom  were  capable  of  managi:ig  the 
rifle — a  force  more  than  suflicient  to  undertake  with  pru- 
dence the  long  fiiarch  we  iiad  to  make.     Whilst  the  rest  of 
our  company  inclined  to  the  West,  Father  Point,  a  young 
Englishman  and  myself  turned  to  the  left,  to  visit  the  near- 
est village  of  our  hosts.   At  the  first  sight  of  their  wigwams, 
we  were  struck  at  the  resemblance  they  bore  to  the  large 
stacks  of  wheat   which   cover   our  fields  in    harvest-time. 
There  were  of  these  in  all  no  more  than  about  twenty,  group- 
ed together    without  order,  but  each  covering  a  space  of 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  circumference,  and 
sufficient  to  shelter  from  thirty  to  forty  persons.  The  entire 
village  appeared  to  us  to  consist  of  from  seven  to  eight  hun- 
dred souls — an  approximation  which  is  justified  by  the  fact 
that  the  total  population  of  the  tribe  is  confined  to  two  vil- 
lages, together  numbering  1900  inhabitants.    These  cabins, 
however  humble   they  may  appeir,  are  solidly  built  and 
convenient.     From  the  top  of  the  wall,  which  is  about  six 
feet  in  height,  rise   ittclined  poles,  which  terminate  round 
an  opening  above,  serving  at  once  for  chimney  and  window. 
The  door  of  the  edifice  consists  of  an  undressed  hide  on  the 
most  sheltered  side,  the  hearth  occupies  the  centre  and  is  in 
the  midst  of  four  upright  posts  destined   to  support  the  ro- 
tunda; the  beds  are  ranged  round  the  wall  and  thti  space  be- 
tween the  beds  and  the  hearth  is  occupied  by  the  members 

6* 


I 
J 


'I  i 


)4« 


I. 

1  il 


■  * . 


s 


[■'t\ 


H 


MS 
'■I 


i  ^.1^ 


:Ui 


I 


r 


06 


The  Papoose, 


i       ivH 


M\  h 


of  the  family,  some  standing,  others  sitting  or  lying  on  skins, 
or  yellow  colored  mats.  It  would  seem  that  this  last  named 
article  is  regarded  as  a  piece  of  extra  finery,  for  the  lodge 
assigned  to  us  had  one  of  them. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  describe  all  the  curiosities  we 
beheld  during  the  hour  we  passed  among  these  truly 
strange  beings  ;  a  Teniers  would  have  envied  us.  What 
most  excited  our  attention  was  the  peculiar  physiognomy 
of  the  groater  number  of  these  personages,  their  vivacity  of 
expression,  singular  costume,  diversity  of  amusement  and 
fantastic  attitudes  and  gestures.  Tlie  women  alone  were 
occupied,  and  in  order  to  attend  to  their  various  duties  with 
less  distraction,  they  iiad  placed  those  of  their  papooses 
who  were  unable  to  walk,  on  beds  or  on  the  floor,  or  at 
their  feet,  each  tightly  swathed  and  fastened  to  a  l)oard,  to 
preserve  it  from  being  injured  by  surrounding  objects.— 
This  machine,  which  I  shall  not  call  either  cradle  or  chair, 
is  carried,  when  they  travel,  either  on  the  back,  after  the 
fashion  of  the  gypsies  and  fortune-tellers  in  Europe,  or  at 
their  side,  or  more  frequently,  suspended  from  the  pummel 
of  the  saddle,  while  they  lead  or  drive  their  ponies,  laden 
with  the  rest  of  their  goods  and  chattels.  With  such  en- 
cumbrances they  manage  to  keep  pace  with  their  husbands, 
who  generally  keep  their  horses  at  a  gallop.  But  let  us  re- 
turn to  our  wigwam.  How  were  the  men  occupied  ?  When 
we  entered,  some  were  preparing  to  eat,  (this  is  their  great 
occupation  when  they  are  not  asleep)  others  were  smoking, 
discharging  the  fumes  of  the  tobacco  by  their  mouths  and 
nostrils,  reminding  one  of  the  funnels  of  a  steamboat; 
they  talked,  they  plucked  out  their  beard  and  the  hair  of 
their  eye-brows,  they  made  their  toilette  i  the  head  receiv- 
ing particular  attention.  Contrary  to  the  custom  of  the 
other  tribes,  who  let  the  hair  on  their  heads  grow,  (one  of 


on  skins, 
ast  named 
the  lodge 

jsities  we 
lese   truly 
js.    What 
siognomy 
/ivacity  of 
jment  and 
lone  were 
luties  with 
•  papooses 
oor,  or  at 
,  hoard,  to 
objects. — 
e  or  chair, 
,  after  the 
rope,  or  at 
tie  pummel 
nies,  laden 
1  such  en- 
r  husbands, 
lit  let  us  re- 
ed? When 
;  their  great 
•e  smoking, 
mouths  and 
steamboat; 
the  hair  of 
lead  receiv- 
stom  of  the 
ow,  (one  of 


^'11 


r 


I! 


i,  *■ 


:i    ■ 


t'l 


i:|: 


y 


I 


i 

,■■« 

Iri 

i 

mil 

.!^f' 


O 
O 
O 

< 

z 

2 


o 

Q 


Ornaments. 


07 


C5 


o 
o 
o 

< 
z 


O 

I 


the  Crows  has  hair  eleven  feet  long)  liie  Kanzas  shave 
theirs,  with  the  exception  of  a  well  curled  tuft  on  the 
crown,  destined  to  be  wreathed  with  the  warrior's  plume  of 
eagle's  feathers,  the  proudest  ornament  with  which  the 
human  head  can  be  adorned.  While  we  were  smokins:  I 
could  not  help  watching  the  motions  of  a  young  savage,  a 
sort  of  dandy,  who  ceased  not  to  arrange,  over  and  over 
again,  his  bunch  of  feathers  before  a  looking  glass,  appa- 
rently unable  to  give  it  the  graceful  finish  he  intended. — 
Father  Point,  having  suHered  his  beurd  to  grow,  soon  be- 
came an  object  of  curiosity  and  laughter,  to  the  children — a 
beardless  chin  and  well  picked  brows  and  eye-lashcs  being, 
among  ihem,  indispensable  to  beauty.  Next  come  the 
Plume  and  Slit-cars,  with  their  pendants  of  beads  and  other 
trinkets.  This  is  but  a  part  of  their  finery,  and  the  pains 
thus  taken  to  reach  the  beau-ideal  of  personal  decorations, 
are  but  a  faint  specimen  of  their  vanity.  Uo  you  wish  to 
have  an  idea  of  a  Kanza  satisfied  with  himself  in  the  high- 
est degree  ?  Picture  hiin  to  yourself  with  rings  of  Vermil- 
lion encircling  his  eyes,  with  white,  black,  or  red  stieaks 
running  down  his  face,  a  fantastic  necklace,  adorned  in  the 
centre  with  a  large  medal  of  silver  or  copper,  dangling  on 
his  breast;  bracelets  of  tin,  copper,  or  brass,  on  his  arms 
and  wrists  ;  a  cincture  of  white  around  his  waist,  a  cutlass 
and  scabbard,  embroidered  shoes  or  mocasins  on  his  feet; 
and,  to  crown  all,  a  mantle,  it  matters  not  for  the  color, 
thrown  over  the  shoulders  and  falling  around  the  body  in 
such  folds  or  drapery  as  the  wants  or  caprice  of  the  wearer 
may  direct,  and  the  individual  stands  before  you  as  he  exhi- 
bited himself  to  us. 

As  for  dress,  manners,  religion,  modes  of  making  war, 
&;c.,  the  Kanzas  are  like  the  savages  of  their  neighborhood, 
with  whom  they  have  preserved  peaceful  and  friendly  rela- 


«'  i 


|:,: 


,1 

4 


"I  \i 


i'  ii|){ 


r- 


11 


I 


68 


An  intelligent  Chief. 


!■■)'  '\ 


It 


l',!l,; 


I'r 


J;  :,! 


!»'  '■ 


all 


u:  .,:i 


tions  from  lime  immemorial.  In  stature,  they  are  generally 
tall  and  well  made.  Their  physiognomy  is  manly,  their 
language  is  gutural,  and  remarkable  for  the  length  and 
strong  accentation  of  the  final  syllables.  Their  style  of 
singing  is  monotonous,  whence  it  may  be  inferred  that  the 
enchanting  music  heard  on  the  rivers  of  Paraguay,  never 
cheers  the  voyager  on  the  otherwise  beautiful  streams  of  the 
country  of  the  Kanzas. 

With  regard  to  the  qualities  which  distinguish  n»an 
from  the  brute,  they  are  far  from  being  deficient.  To 
bodily  strength  and  courage  they  unite  a  shrewdness  and 
address  superior  to  other  savages,  and  in  their  wars  or  the 
chase,  ihey  make  a  dexterous  use  of  fire  arms,  which  gives 
them  a  decided  advantage  over  their  enemies. 

Among  the  chiefs  ofthis  tribe  are  found  men  leally  distin- 
guished in  many  respects.  The  most  celebrated  was 
"  White  Plume,"  whom  the  author  of  the  Conquest  of 
Grenada  represents  as  a  man  of  great  powers  of  mind  and 
chivalrous  character.  He  was  endowed  with  uncommon 
intelligence,  frankness,  generosity  and  courage.  He  had 
been  particularly  acquainted  with  Rev.  Mr.  De  ia  Croix, 
one  of  the  first  Catholic  Missionaries  that  visited  that  part 
of  the  West,  and  conceived  for  him  and  his  colleagues,  the 
•'  Black  Robes"  profound  esteem.  His  feelings  towards 
the  Protestant  Missionaries  were  far  difi!erent.  He  had 
neither  esteem  nor  veneration  for  them  or  their  re- 
formation. When  on  a  certain  occasion  one  of  them  spoke 
to  him  of  conversion;  "conversion,"  said  the  unsophistica- 
ted savage,  "is  a  good  thing  when  the  change  is  made  for 
something  good.  For  my  part,  I  know  none  such  but 
what  is  taught  and  practised  by  the  Black  Robes.  If  then 
you  desire  me  to  change,  you  must  first  quit  your  wife  and 
then  put  on  the  habit  1  shall  show  you,  and  then  we  shail 


lieverence  for  tlu  Great  Spirit. 


69 


see  furlher."  This  habit  was  a  priest's  cassock,  which  a 
missionary  had  left  him  with  the  memory  of  his  virtues. — 
We  presume  we  need  not  add  that  these  hard  conditions 
were  not  complied  with  by  the  preacher. 

It  is  not  to  be  inferred  from  the  apparent  pleasantry  of 
this  remark  that  the  chief  spoke  lightly  of  Religion  ;  on  the 
contrary,  the  Kanzas,  like  all  the  Indian  tribes,  never  speak 
on  the  subject   without  becoming  solemnity.     The  more 
they  are  observed  the  more  evident  does  it  become  that  the 
religious  sentiment  is  deeply  implanted  in  their  souls,  and 
is,  of  all  others,  that  wliich  is  most  frequently  expressed  by 
their  words  and  aciiou'.     Thus,  for  instance,  they  never 
take  the  calmut,  without  first  rendering  some  homage  to  the 
Great  Spirit.     In  the  midst  of  their  most  infuriate  p'assions 
they  address  him  certain  prayers,  and  even  in  assassinating 
a  defenceless  child,  or  a  woman,  they  invoke  the  Master  of 
life.     To  be  enabled  to  take  many  a  scalp  from  their  ene- 
mies, or  to  rob  them  of  many  horses,  becomes  the  object  of 
their  most  fervid  prayers,   to  which  they  sometimes  add 
fasts,   macerations  and  saciifices.     What  did  they  not  do 
last  spring,  to  render  the  heavens  propitious?  And  for  what? 
To  obtain  the  power,  in  the  absence  of  their  warriors,  to 
massacrd  all  the  women  and  children  of  the  Pawnees  !  And 
in  effect  they  carried  ofl'  the  scalps  of  ninety  victims,  and 
made  prisoners  of  all  whom  they  did  not  think  proper  to 
kill.     In  their  eyes,  revenge,  far  from  being  a  horrible  vice, 
is  the  first  of  virtues,  the  distinctive  mark  of  great  souls, 
and    a    complete   vindication  of  the    most   atrocious   cru- 
elty.    It    would    be    time   lost   to    attempt     to  persuade 
them   that  there  can  be   neither  merit,  nor  glory,  in  the 
murder  of  a  disarmed  and  helpless  foe.     There  is  but  one 
exception  to  this  barbarous  code,  it  is  when  an  enemy  vol- 


untarily seeks  a  refuge  in  one  of  their  villages.     As  long  as 


i] 


1; 

,< 

t 

i 


'It' 


! 


\ 


!^ 


m  1 


lii 


m 


V      'I 


CI 


h 


1 


'■Jli;'. 


70 


First  visit  to   the   Chapel. 


he  remains  in  it,  his  asylum  is  inviolable — his  life  is  more 
safe  than  it  would  be  in  his  own  wigwam.     But  wo  to  him 
if  he  attempt  to  fly — scarcely  has  he  taken  a  singlu  step, 
before  he  restores  to  his   hosts  all   the  imaginary  rights 
which  the  spirit  of  vengeance  had  given  them  to  his  life! 
However  cruel  they  may  be  to  their  foes,  the  Kanzas  ate 
no  strangers  to  the  tenderest  sentiments  of  piety,  friend- 
ship and  compassion.     They  are  often  inconsolable  for  the 
death  of  their  relations,  and  leave  nothing  undone  to  give 
proof  of  their  sorrow.     Then  only  do  they  suffer  their  hair 
to  grow — long  hair  being  a  sign  of  long  mourning.     The 
principal  chief  apologised  for  the  length  of  his  hair,  inform- 
ing us,  of  what  we  could  have  divined  from  the  sadness  of 
his  countenance,  that  he  had  lost  his  son.     I  wish  I  could 
represent  to  you  the  respect,  astonishment  and  compassion, 
expressed  on  the  countenances  of  three  others,  when  they 
visited  our  little   Chapel  for    the  first  time.     When  we 
showed  them  an  "  Ecce  Homo"  and  a  statue  of  our  Lady  of 
the  seven  Dolours,  and  the  interpreter  explained  to  them 
that  that  head  crowned  with  thorns,  and  that  countenance 
defiled  with  insults,  were  the  true  and  real  image  of  a  God 
who  had  died  for  the  love  of  us,  and  that  the  heart  they  saw 
pieiced  with  seven  swords,  was  the  heart  of  his  mother,  we 
beheld  an  aflecting  illustration  of  the  beautiful  thought  of  Ter- 
tuUian,  that  the  soul  of  man  is  naturally  Christian  !  On  such 
occasions,  it  iL>  surely  not  difficult,  afier  a  short  instruction 
on  true  faith  and  ihe  love  of  God,  to  excite  feelings  of  pity 
for   their  fellow  creatures  in  the  most  ferocious  bosoms. 
What  were  the  Iroquois  before  their  conversions,  and  what 
have  they  not  since  become  ?     Why  do  the  Kanzas  and  so 
many  other  tribes  on  the  confines  of  civilization,  still  retain 
that  savage  ferocity   of  manners  1     Why  have  the  great 
sums  expended  in  their  behalf  by  Protestant  philanthropy 


Contemplated  Attack. 


71 


produced  no  satisfactory  results  ?  Why  are  the  germs  of 
civilization  so  thickly  scattered  among  these  tribes,  as  it 
were,  stricken  with  sterility  ?  Ah  !  it  is  doubtless,  because 
something  more  than  human  policy  and  zeal  of  Troiestant- 
ism  is  necessary  to  civilize  the  savage  and  make  them 
Christians.  May  the  God  of  Mercies,  in  wliom  we  alone 
place  all  our  trust,  bless  our  undertaking  and  enable  us  to 
predict  that  our  sweat,  mixed  with  the  fertilizing  dew  of 
heaven,  will  fall  auspiciously  on  this  long  barren  earth,  and 
make  it  produce  something  else  besides  briars  and  thorns  ! 
When  we  took  leave  of  our  hospitable  hosts,  two  of  their 
wartiors,  to  one  of  whom  they  gave  the  title  of  Captain,  es- 
corted us  a  short  distance  on  the  road,  which  lay  through  a 
vast  field  which  had  been  cleared  and  planted  for  them  by 
the  United  Slates,  but  which  had  been  ravaged  before  the 
harvest  home — sad  proof  of  what  we  have  stated  above. 

Our  escort  continued  with  us  until  the  day  following,  and 
would  have  remained  with  us  still  longer,  did  they  not  fear 
the  terrible  reprisals  of  the  Pawnees,  for  the  massacre 
committed  some  months  previously.  Having  therefore  re- 
ceived our  thanks  and  a  portion  of  tobacco,  they  resumed 
the  road  to  their  village,  just  in  time  to  escape  the  ven- 
geance of  a  parly  of  Pawnees,  whom  we  met  two  days  later, 
in  quest  of  the  Kanzas  ! 

The  Pawnees  are  divided  into  four  tribes,  scattered  over 
the  fertile  borders  of  the  Platte  River.  Though  six  times 
more  numerous  than  the  Kanzas,  they  have  almost  on  every 
occasion  been  conquered  by  the  latter,  because  they  are  far 
inferior  to  them  in  the  use  of  arms,  and  in  strength  and  cou- 
rage. Yet  as  the  parly  just  mentioned  seemed  to  have 
adopted  decisive  measures,  and  as  their  thirst  of  revenge 
had  been  stimulated  to  the  highest  degree  by  the  still  fresh 
recollection  of  what  their  mothers,  their  wives  and  children 


rJ 


Ih 


i:'-r, 


1 1'; 


m 


t     ,1 


'  '  *;.  I' 


m-'f 


ill 


72 


Superstitious  Jlites- 


had  siifl'ered,  we  had  reason  to  fear  for  llie  Kanzas.  Al- 
ready we  fancied  that  we  saw  the  blood  streaming  on  all 
sides,  when,  two  days  after  we  had  passed  thorn,  we  saw 
them  return  to  meet  ns.  The  two  lirst  who  approaciied  us, 
excited  our  attention,  the  one  by  a  imman  scalp,  which 
hung  suspended  from  the  neck  of  his  horse,  the  other  by  an 
American  flag,  which  he  had  wrapped  around  his  body,  in 
the  form  of  a  cloak.  This  kind  of  attire  made  us  tremble 
for  the  fate  of  our  iiosts  ;  but  tlie  captain  of  tiie  caravan  hav- 
ing asked  them  by  signs  concerning  the  result  of  their  expe- 
dition, they  informed  us  that  they  had  not  even  seen  the 
enemy,  and  that  they  suffered  much  from  the  cravings  of 
hunger.  We  gave  to  them,  and  to  about  fifteen  others  who 
followed  them,  both  victuals  and  tobacco.  They  devoured 
the  victuals,  but  did  not  smoke  ;  and,  contrary  to  the  cus- 
tom of  the  Indians,  who  generally  expect  to  get  a  second 
meal  after  the  first,  they  left  us  in  a  manner  which  indica- 
ted that  they  were  dissatisfied.  The  suddenness  of  their 
departure,  their  refusal  to  smoke  the  calmut,  the  unexpected 
return  of  their  party,  the  neighborhood  of  their  villages, 
and  their  well  known  love  of  plunder — in  short,  every  thing 
induced  us  to  fear  that  they  liad  some  design  to  make  an 
attempt,  if  not  upon  our  persons,  at  least  upon  the  baggage  ; 
but,  God  be  praised,  not  one  re-appeared  after  the  depar- 
ture of  the  party. 

Though  addicted  to  the  practice  of  lying  and  stealing, 
yet,  what  must  appear  wonderful,  the  Pawnees  are  in  some 
respects  true  believers,  with  regard  to  the  certainty  of  a  fu- 
ture life,  and  display  a  pharisaical  punctuality  in  the  obser- 
vance of  their  superstitious  rites.  Dancing  and  music,  as 
well  as  fasting,  prayer  and  sacrifice,  form  an  essential  part 
of  their  worship.  The  most  common  worship  among 
them  is  that  which  they  offer  to  a  stuffed  bird,  filled  with 


The   Mediator    Bird. 


73 


iling, 

Isome 

a  fu- 

[bser* 

as 

part 

long 

Iwith 


herbs  and  rools,  to  whicli  they  attribute  a  supernatural 
virtue.  They  protest  that  this  Manitoo  had  been  sent  to 
their  ancestors  by  the  Morning  Star,  to  be  their  mediator 
when  they  should  stand  in  need  of  some  particular  favor. — 
Hence,  whenever  they  enter  upon  some  important  under- 
taking, or  wish  to  avert  some  great  evil,  they  expose  the 
Mediator-bird  to  public  veneration  ;  and  in  order  to  render 
both  him  and  the  Great  Manitoo  (or  Spirit)  by  whom  he  is 
sent,  propitious  to  them,  they  smoke  the  calmut,  and  blow 
the  first  smoke  tliat  issues  from  it  towards  the  part  of  the 
sky  where  shines  their  protectress. 

On  the  most  solemn  occasions,  the  Pawnees  add  a  bloody 
sacritice  to  the  oblation  of  the  calmut;  and  according  to 
what  they  pretend  to  have  learned  from  the  bird  and  the 
Star,  the  sacrifice  most  agreeable  to  the  Great  Spirit  is  that 
of  an  enemy  immolated  in  the  most  cruel  manner.  It  is 
impossible  to  listen  without  horror  to  the  recital  of  the  cir- 
cumstances that  attended  the  sacrifice  of  a  young  female,  of 
the  Scioux  tribe,  in  the  course  of  the  year  1837.  It  was 
about  seed  time,  and  they  thus  sought  to  obtain  a  plentiful 
harvest.  I  shall  here  give  the  substance  of  the  detailed  ac- 
count, which  I  have  given  of  it  in  a  former  letter.  This 
young  girl,  was  only  aged  fifteen  ;  after  having  been  well 
treated  and  fed  for  six  months,  under  pretence  that  a  feast 
would  be  prepared  for  her  at  the  opening  of  the  summer 
season,  felt  rejoiced  when  she  saw  the  last  days  of  winter 
roll  by.  The  day  fixed  upon  for  the  feast  having  dawned, 
she  passed  through  all  the  preparatory  ceremonies,  and  was 
then  arrayed  in  her  finest  attire,  after  which  she  was  placed 
in  a  circle  of  warriors,  who  seemed  to  escort  her  for  the 
purpose  of  showing  her  deference.  Besides  their  wonted 
arms,  each  one  of  these  warriors  had  two  pieces  of  wood, 
which  he  had  received  at  the  hands  of  the  maiden.     The 

7 


1  M 


I       1 1 


1 


If, 


\). 


Ul 


.  ■  :': 


I     ', 


I:!      .    ! 


'ir 


n 


.1 ,11 


t    ,i 


it 


li- 


Hi! 


74 


Traffic  :  '."rifice 


latter  had  on  the  preceding  '  y  ^?,riiea  tliree  posts,  which 
she  liad  helped  to  fell  in  the  nei|,'hb()ring  I'orest:  but  suppo. 
sing  that  she  was  walking  tu  a  triumph,  nnd  iier  mind  being 
filled  with  the  most  pleat^ing  ideas,  iho  victim  advanced  to* 
wards  the  place  of  her  sacnlicc  with  those  (ningled  feelings 
of  joy  and  timidity,  which,  under  similar  circumsiances, 
are  naturally  excited  in  the  bosom  of  a  girl  of  her  age. 

During  their  march,  which  was  rather  lung,  the  silence 
was  interrupted  only  by  reliujious  songs  and  invocations  to 
the  Master  of  life,  so  that  whatever  allecicd  the  senses,  ten- 
ded to  keep  up  the  decciilul  delusion  under  which  she  liad 
been  till  that  moment.  Hut  as  soon  as  she  had  reached  the 
place  of  sacritice,  wlierc  nothing  was  seen  but  lires,  torches, 
and  instruments  of  torture,  the  delusion  began  to  vanish  and 
her  eyes  were  opened  to  the  fate  that  awaited  her.  How 
great  must  have  been  the  surprise,  and  soon  after  the  terror 
which  she  felt,  when  she  found  it  no  longer  possible  to 
doubt  of  their  intentions  ?  Who  could  describe  her  poignant 
anguish  ?  She  burst  into  tears  ;  she  raised  loud  cries  to 
heaven — she  begged,  entreated,  conjured  her  executioners 
to  have  pity  on  her  youtli,  her  innocence,  her  parents,  but 
all  in  vain  :  neither  tears,  nor  cries,  nor  the  promises  of  a 
trader  who  happened  to  be  present,  softened  the  hearts  of 
these  monsters.  She  was  tied  with  ropes  to  the  trunk  and 
branches  of  two  trees,  and  the  most  sensitive  parts  of  her 
body  were  burnt  with  torches  made  of  the  wood  which 
she  had  with  her  own  hands  distributed  to  the  warriors. — 
When  her  sufterings  lasted  long  enough  to  weary  the  fanati- 
cal fury  of  her  ferocious  tormentors,  the  great  chief  shot  an 
arrow  into  her  heart ;  and  in  an  instant  this  arrow  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  thousand  others,  which,  after  having  been  vio- 
lently turned  and  twisted  in  the  wounds,  were  torn  from 
them  in  such  a  manner  that  her  whole  body  presented  but 


of  a  ScioiLv  girl. 


one  sliapeless  mass  of  mangled  flesh,  from  whicli  the  blood 
streamed  on  all  sides.  When  the  I)lood  had  ceased  to  How, 
the  greater  saerificator  approached  the  expiring  victim,  and 
to  crown  so  many  atrocious  acts,  tore  out  iier  heart  with  his 
own  hands,  and  after  uttering  the  most  frightful  imprecations 
against  the  Scioux  nation,  devoured  the  bleeding  llesh,  amid 
the  acclamations  of  his  whole  tribe.  'I'he  mangled  remains 
wore  then  left  to  be  preyed  upon  by  wild  beasts,  and  when 
the  blood  had  been  sprinkled  on  the  seed,  to  render  it  fer- 
tile, all  retired  to  their  cabins,  cheered  with  the  liopc  of  ob- 
taining a  copious  harvest. 

Such  horrid  cruelties  could  not  but  draw  down  the  wrath 
of  heaven  upon  their  nation.  And  in  fact,  as  soon- as  the 
report  of  the  sacrifice  reached  the  Scioux,  they  burned 
with  the  desire  to  avenge  their  honor,  and  swore  to  a  man 
that  they  would  not  rest  satisfied  till  ihey  should  have 
killed  as  many  Pawnees  as  the  young  victim  had  bones  in 
her  lingers  and  joints  in  her  body.  More  than  a  hundred 
Pawnees  have  at  length  fallen  beneath  their  tomahawks, 
and  their  fury  was  afterwards  more  increased  by  the  massa- 
cre of  their  wives  and  children,  of  which  I  have  spoken 
before. 

At  the  sijrht  of  so  much  cruelty,  who  could  mistake 
the  agency  of  the  enemy  of  mankind,  and  who  would  re- 
fuse to  exert  himself  for  llie  purpose  of  bringing  these  be- 
nighted nations  to  the  knowledge  of  the  true  Mediator,  and 
of  the  only  true  sacrifice,  without  which,  it  is  impossible  to 
appease  the  divine  justice. 

Kev.  and  dear  Father,  yours, 

P.  J.  De  S31ET,  S.  J. 


r' 


! 


(  ' 


[O.  ■ 


f 


LETTER  IV. 


I     In 


I!    i'V' 


Eau  Siicree,  14ih  July,  184i 
Verv  Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial : 

Already  two  long  monlhs  have  elapjed  since  we  began 
our  journey;  but  we  are  at  lengtli  in  sight  of  those  dear 
mountains  that  have  so  long  been  the  object  of  our  desires. 
They  are  called  Rocky,  because  they  are  almost  entirely 
formed  of  granite  and  silex,  or  flint  stone.  The  length,  po- 
sition, and  elevation  of  this  truly  wonderful  chain  of  moun- 
tains, have  induced  geographers  to  give  to  it  the  appella- 
tion of  "  the  back-bone  of  the  western  hemisphere."  Tra- 
versing almost  the  whole  of  North  America,  from  north  to 
south,  containing  the  sources  of  some  of  the  largest  streams 
of  the  world,  this  chain  has  for  iis  branches,  towards  the 
west,  "  die  spur  of  the  Cordilleras,"  which  divide  the  Em- 
pire of  Mexico,  and  towards  the  east  the  less  known  but  not 
less  wonderful  mountains  of  the  Wind  River,  where  are 
found  the  sources  of  the  large  streams  that  empty  them- 
selves into  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic  Oceans.  The  Black 
Hills  and  the  table  lands,  called  Prairie  hills,  which  sepa- 
rate the  sources  of  the  upper  [Missouri  from  those  of  the 
Mississippi,  the  Ozark  and  the  Masserne  ridges  may  all  be 
considered  as  so  many  collateral  chains  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains, 

According   to     trigonometrical    calculations,    and  obser- 
vations, made  by  means  of  the  barometer,  Mr.  Boneville, 


Rochj  Mountains. 


11 


M( 


sserts  that  the 


immits  of  some  of  these 
mountains  are  25,000  feet  liigh.  This  height  would  ap- 
pear much  exaggerated,  if  we  consulted  only  the  testimony 
of  the  eyes,  but  it  is  well  known  that  the  mountains  which 
are  found  in  immense  plains,  are  not  unlike  sliips  seen  on 
the  ocean  ;  they  appear  much  less  elevated  than  they  are  in 
reality.  Whatever  may  be  the  height  of  these  colossal 
mountains,  it  was  at  their  base  that  we  hoped  to  meet  our 
dear  neophytes.  Hut  a  messenger  we  liad  sont  to  acquaint 
them  with  our  arrival,  has  just  returned,  and  informed  us 
that  the  Indians  who  lay  encamped  there,  about  a  fortnight 
ago,  went  in  a  southerly  direction  to  hunt  the  buffalo.  We 
know  not  whether  those  Indians  were  Flat  Heads  or  belong 
to  another  nation,  and  it  is  to  obtain  information  on  this 
subject,  that  we  are  going  to  despatch  a  second  messenger. 
In  the  mean  time,  I  shall  continue  my  journal.  The  nu- 
merous notes,  which,  on  account  of  our  slow  progress,  we 
have  been  enabled  to  take  on  the  spot,  will  warrant  that  ex- 
actness of  descri[)lion.  wliich  is  the  more  desirable,  as  it  is 
a  quality  frequently  wanting  in  the  accounts  given  of 
these  distant  regions.  Not  to  exceed  the  bounds  of  a 
lengthy  letter,  I  shall  say  but  little  concerning  perspectives, 
flowers,  birds,  animalsi,  Indians,  and  adventures. 
j^  |With  the  exception  of  the  mounds  which  run  parallel  to 
each  other  on  both  sides  of  the  Platte  river,  and  after  pas- 
sing under  the  Black  Hills,  disappear  at  the  base  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  the  whole  plain  which  we  traversed  for 
1500  miles  after  we  had  left  Wesiport,  might  be  called  the 
Prairie  Ocean.  In  fact,  nearly  the  whole  of  this  territory 
is  of  an  undulating  form,  and  the  undulations  resemble  the 
billows  of  the  sea  when  agitated  by  the  storm.  On  the 
tops  of  some  of  these  elevations  we  have  seen  shells  and 
petrifactions,  such  as  are  found  on  several  mountains  in 

7* 


i!    " 

I 

^1 


ISJ. 

1   \\ 


i    a 


Fi 


r 


%  I 


1     5 


V 
i: 

t 

I 


n 
I 


;i 


iMi 


t!     I 


i  I 

»,  ,1,-. 


» I    r  i 


l^'-  K, 


if  si  • . 

wk 


f-fi 


Ml 


78 


Aspect  of  the  Country. 


Europe.  No  doubt,  some  impartial  geologists  may  disco- 
ver here,  as  they  have  done  elsewhere,  incontestible  proofs 
of  the  deluge.  A  petrified  fragment  which  I  have  in  my 
possession,  seems  to  contain  a  number  of  these  shells. 

In  proportion  as  one  removes  from  the  banks  of  the  Mis- 
souri or  penetrates  into  the  Western  regions,  the  forests 
lose  much  in  height,  density  and  depth,  in  consequence  of 
the  scarcity  of  water.  Soon  after,  only  the  rivers  are  lined 
with  narrow  skirts  of  wood,  in  which  are  seldom  seen  any 
lofiv  creeks.  In  the  neighborhood  of  creeks  and  rivulets 
we  generally  find  willow  buslies,  and  where  there  is  no 
water  it  would  be  vain  to  look  for  any  thing  but  grass,  and 
even  ihis  grass  is  only  found  in  the  fertile  plains  that  lie 
between  Weslport  and  the  Platte  river. 

Ttiis  intimate  connexion  between  rivers  and  forests  is  so 
striking  to  the  eye,  that  our  beasts  of  burden  !iad  not  jour- 
neyed more  than  eight  days  through  this  desert,  when  we 
saw  ilicm  in  some  maimer  exult  and  double  their  pace  at 
the  sight  of  the  trees  that  appeared  at  a  distance.  This 
was  chic  lly  observable  when  the  day's  journey  had  been 
father  long.  This  scarcity  of  wood  in  the  western  regions, 
so  much  at  variance  widi  what  is  seen  in  other  parts  of 
Noriii  America,  proceeds  from  two  principal  causes.  In 
the  plains  on  this  side  of  Platte  river,  from  the  custom 
whicli  tlie  Indians  who  live  here  have  adopted,  to  fire  their 
prairie.<  towards  the  end  of  autumn,  in  order  to  have  better 
pasture  at  the  return  of  spring  ;  but  in  the  Far  West,  where 
the  Indians  do  not  follow  this  practice,  (because  they  fear  to 
drive  away  liie  animals  that  are  necessary  for  their  subsis- 
tence, or  to  expose  themselves  to  be  discovered  by  the 
strolling  parlies  of  their  enemies,)  it  proceeds  from  the 
nature  o!  the  soil,  which  being  a  mixture  of  sand  and  light 
earth,  is  every  where  so  very  barren  that  with  the  excep- 


n  pp 


Rock  Independence. 


79 


lion  of  the  absynth  that  covers  the  plains,  and  the  gloomy 
verdure  that  shades  ihe  mountains,  vegetation  is  confined  to 
the  vicinity  of  rivers, — a  circumstance  which  renders  a 
journey  through  the  Far  West  extremely  long  and  tedious. 

At  considerable  distances,  chielly  between  the  Kanis  and 
the  Platte  rivers,  are  found  blocks  of  granite  of  different 
sizes  and  colors.  The  reddish  is  the  most  common.  In 
some  of  the  stony  parts  of  the  Black  Hills  are  also  seen 
numberless  quantities  of  small  pebbles  of  all  shades.  I 
have  seen  some  thai  were  united  into  solid  masses.  If 
these  were  well  polished  they  would  present  the  appear- 
ance of  fine  mosaics.  The  columns  of  the  House  of  Re- 
presentatives in  Washington  are  deemed  very  handsome, 
and  are  made  of  similar  concretions. 

On  the  feast  of  St.  Peter  a  remarkable  occurrence  took 
place.  VVe  discovered  an  equally  curious  quarry,  which, 
at  first,  we  look  for  white  marble,  but  we  soon  found  it 
something  more  valuable.  Astonished  at  llie  facility  with 
which  we  could  fashion  this  kind  of  stone  into  any  shape, 
most  of  the  travellers  made  calmuts  of  it.  I  had  several 
made  myself,  with  the  intention  of  offering  them  as  pre- 
sents to  the  Indians,  so  that  for  the  space  of  forty-eight 
hours  our  camp  was  filled,  wiih  Ir-nidaries.  But  the  greater 
number  of  these  c;  imuts  i:»!ul{l  n  >r  witholand  the  action  of 
the  fire,  and  broke.     Tl  vr^s  alab.'^te.'. 

The  first  rock  wj? -h  we  saw,  d;id  which  truly  deserves 
the  name,  was  the  lamoLv  iiocK  Independence.  It  is  of 
the  same  nature  as  the  Rocky  Mountains.  At  first  I  was 
led  to  believe  that  it  ha  1  received  this  pompous  name  from 
its  isolated  situation  and  the  solidity  of  its  basis  ;  but  1  was 
afterwards  told  that  it  was  called  S(^  because  the  first  travel- 
lers who  thought  of  giving  it  a  name,  arrived  at  it  on  the 
very  day  when  the  people  of  the  United  States  celebrate  the 


■i 


11, 


IT' 

'     7. 


ni 


; 

I 

■ 

i 

1.' 


m 
m 


Ht : 


!',<',, 


80 


Indian   Mounds. 


ri 


11 


anniversary  of  tncir  emancipation  from  Great  Britain.    We 
reached  this  spot  on  the  day  that  immediately  succeeds  this 
celchration.     Wo  had   in  our  company  a  young  English- 
man, as  jealous  of  the  honor  of  his  nation  as  the  Americans  ; 
hence  we  had  a  double  reason  not  to  cry  hurra  for  Indepen- 
dence.    Still,  on  the  following  day,  lest  it  might  be  said 
that  wo  passed   this  lofty  monument  of  tiie  desert  with  in- 
diflerencc,  we  cut  our  names  on  the  south  side  of  the  rock, 
under  initials  (I.  11,  S.)  which  we  would  wish  to  see  en- 
graT-ed  on  every  spot.     On  account  of  all  these  names,  and 
of  the  dates  that  accompany  them,  as  well  as  of  the  hiero- 
glyphics of  Indian  warriors,  I  have  surnamed  this   Rock 
"  the  Great  Record  of  the  Desert."     I  shall  add  a  few  re- 
ir  ^ks  about  the  mounds  that  are  seen  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Platte   river.     'J'he    most  remarkable   of  all,  at  least  that 
which  is  best  known  to  the  generality  of  travellers,  is  the 
mound  to  which  they  have  given  the  name  of  "chimney." 
It  is  called  so  on  account  of  its  extraordinary  form  ;  but  in- 
stead of  applying  to  it  an  appellation  which  is  rather  un- 
worthy this  wonder  of  nature,  just  because  it  bears  some  re- 
semblance  to  the  object  after  which  it  is  named,  it  would 
have  heen  more  proj)er  to  call  it  "  the  inverted  funnel,"  as 
there   is  no  object  wliich  it  resembles  more.     Its  whole 
height,  including  the  base,  body  and  column,  is  scarce  less 
than  four  or  five  hundred  feet;  the  column  or  chimney  is 
only  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high,  so  that  there  is 
nothing  striking  in  the  loftiness  of  its  dimensions.     But 
what  excites  our  astonisnment,  is  the  raanner  in  which  thi° 
remnant  of  a  mountain,  composed  of  sand  and  clay,  has 
been  so  shaped,  and  how  it  has  for  such  a  length  of  time 
preserved  this  form,  in  spite  of  liie  winds  that  are  so  violent 
in  these   parts.     It  is  true  that  this  mound,  and  all  those 
that  are  found  near  it,  is  composed  of  a  successive  num- 


2 


2 
X 


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W 


I    :'i 


hi 


W; 


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!  I    r,)f 


%'. 


% 


V  "i 


The  •'  Chimney:' 


81 


<ij 


her  of  horizontal  and  perpendicular  strata,  and  iias  about 
the  middle  a  zone  or  belt,  consisting  of  a  vine  of  petri- 
fied clay.  If  I'rom  tiiese  two  facts  it  would  be  inferred 
that  at  a  certain  height  the  substance  of  which  the  hori- 
zontal and  perpendicular  strata  are  formed,  is  susceptible 
of  being  hardened  so  as  to  approach  the  nature  of  stone, 
then  we  might  perhaps  account  in  some  manner  for  ihe 
wonderful  formation  of  this  curious  ornament.  Yet  the 
main  dilllcully  would  still  remain,  and  we  would  at  last  be 
compelled  to  have  recourse  to  ilie  system  of  occult  quali- 
ties. The  existence  of  the  chimney  is  therefore  a  problem, 
and  if  any  soientilic  person  should  wish  to  solve  it,  I  would 
advise  him  to  repair  to  this  monument  without  delay,  as  a 
cleli  which  is  seen  at  the  top,  and  which  in  all  probability 
will  soon  extend  to  the  base,  ihreaiens  to  leave  nothinjj  of  it 
but  the  remembrance  of  its  exisienoe. 

The  chimney  is  not  the  only  remarkable  mound  to  be 
mei  with  in  this  vast  solitude.  There  are  many  oiiiers  of 
various  forms.  One  is  called  "  the  House,"  another  "  the 
Castle,"  a  third  "  the  Fort,"  &;c.  And,  in  fact,  if  a  traveller 
was  not  convinced  that  he  journeys  through  a  desert,  where 
no  oihet  dwellings  exitt  but  the  tents  put  up  at  night  and 
removed  in  the  morning,  he  wotild  be  induced  to  believe 
ilieni  so  many  ancient  fortresses  or  Gothic  castles  and  with 
a  little  imagination,  based  upon  some  historical  knowledge, 
he  might  think  himself  transported  amid  the  ancient  man- 
sions of  Knight  errantry.  On  one  side  are  seen  large  d  itches, 
and  high  walls;  on  the  other,  avenues,  gardens  and  or- 
chards; farther  on,  parks,  ponds,  and  lofty  trees:.  Some- 
times the  fancy  presents  a  castle  of  the  middle  ages,  and 
even  conjures  up  the  lord  of  the  manor ;  but  instead  of  all 
these  magnificent  remains  of  antiquity,  we  find  only  barren 
mounds  on  all  sides,  filled  with  cliffs  formed  by  the  falling 


i' 


11.  :i 


I 


J 


83 


River  Platte. 


.  f 


I 


of  the  waters,  and  serving  as  dens  to  an  infinite  number  of 
rattle  snakes  and  other  venomous  reptiles. 

After  the  Missouri,  which  in  the  Far  West  is  what  the 
Mississippi  is  in  the  North,  the  finest  rivers  are  the  Kan- 
zas,  the  Platle,  and  the  Eau  Sucree.  The  first  of  these 
falls  into  the  Missouri,  and  receives  the  waters  of  a  great 
number  of  tributary  streams.  Of  these  tributaries  we 
counted  as  many  as  eighteen  before  we  reached  the  Platte. 
Hence  we  may  infer  that  the  country  abounds  in  springs, 
and  that  the  soil  is  compact  and  covered  with  verdure.  The 
reverse  may  be  said  of  the  neighborhood  of  the  Platte,  where 
springs  and  verdure  are  seldom  seen.  Even  on  the  mounds 
that  run  parallel  to  its  banks,  the  waters  that  fall  from  the 
clouds,  upon  a  sandy  and  porous  soil,  run  down  into  the  val- 
lies.  But  the  prairies  that  receive  the  overllowing  waters 
of  the  river  are  extremely  fertile,  and  appear  beautiful  in 
spring,  being  enamelled  with  a  great  variety  of  flowers. 
The  sight  of  the  river  itself  is  still  more  pleasing  ;  though 
in  spite  of  all  its  beauties,  it  has,  like  the  most  remarkable 
of  its  mounds,  received  a  vulgar  name.  This  proceeds 
from  the  custom  which  some  travellers  have  of  applying  to 
objects  the  names  of  things  with  which  they  arc  well  ac- 
quainted. Tiiey  have  called  it  Platte  or  Flat  river,  on  ac- 
count of  its  width  and  shallowness;  the  former  often  extend- 
ing six  thousand  feet,  whilst  its  depth  is  but  from  three  to 
five  feet,  and  sometimes  less.  This  want  of  proportion 
destroys  its  utility.  Canoes  cannot  be  used  to  ascend  it, 
and  if  barges  sometimes  come  down  froin  Fort  La  Ramee 
to  the  njoutli,  it  is  because  they  are  so  constructed  that  they 
may  be  converted  into  sledges  and  pushed  on  by  the  hands 
of  men.  The  author  of  Astoria  has  properly  defined  it 
**the  most  magnificent  and  most  useless  of  rivers."  Ab- 
straction made  of  its  defects,  nothing  can  be  more  pleasing 


-    iC' 


iJl 


uc- 

ac- 

lend- 

le  lo 

nion 

it, 
imee 
jthey 
inds 
ju  it 
Ab- 
Isiiig 


Scene  on  the  River. 


88 


than  the  perspective  which  it  presents  to  the  eye  ;  though 
besides   the  prairie  flowers  and  the  ranunculus,  its  banks 
bear  only  the  eglantine  and  the  wild  vine;  for  on  account 
of  the  fires  made  in  the  autumn  the  lofty  vegetation  is  en- 
tirely confined  to  the  islands  that  stud  its  surface.     'J'hese 
islands  are  so   numerous  that  they  have  the  appearance  of 
a  labyrinth  of  groves  lloaling  on  the  waters.     Their  extra- 
ordinary  position  gives  an  air  of  youth  and  beauty  to  the 
whole  scene.     If  to  this  be  added  the  undulations   of  the 
river,  the  waving  of  the  verdure,    the  alternations  of  light 
and  shade,  the  succession  of  tliese  islands  varying  in  form 
and  beauty,   and  the  purity  of  the  atmosphere,  some  idea 
may  be  formed  of  the  pleasing  sensations  which  the  travel- 
ler experiences  on  beholding  a   scene  that  seems  to  have 
started  into  existence  fresh  from  the  hands  of  the  creator. 
Fine  weather  is  common  in  this  temperate  climate.     How- 
ever, it  happens  sometimes,  though  but  seldom,   that  the 
clouds  floating  with  great  rapidity  open  currents  of  air  so 
violent,  as  suddenly  to  cliill  the   atmospliere  and  produce 
the  most  destructive  hail  storms.     1  have  seen  some  hail- 
stones of  the  size  of  an  egg.     It  is  dangerous  to  be  abroad 
during  these  storms.    A  Sheyenne  Indian  was  lately  struck 
by  a  hailstone,  and  remained  senseless  for  an  hour.     Once 
as  the  storm   was  raging  near  us,  we  witnessed  a  sublime 
sight.     A  spiral  abyss   seemed   to  be  suddenly  formed  in 
the  air.     'J'he  clouds  followed  each  other  into  it  with  sach 
velocity,  that  they  attracted  all  objects  around  them,  whilst 
such  clouds  as  were  too  large  and  too  far  distant  to  feel  iis 
influence  turned   in  an  opposite  direction.     The  noise  we 
heard  in  the  air  was  like  that  of  a  tempest.     On  beholding 
the  conflict  we  fancied  that  all  the  winds  had  been  let  loose 
from  the  four  points  of  the  compass.     It  is  very  probable 
that  if  it  had  approached  much  nearer,  the  whole  caravan 


>  i: 


I  1 


"     1 

1     ■ 

1     ^ 

I    k 

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1   ■ 

I'i''' 

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1    ^    ' 

■fi 

84 


Water  Spout. 


>l  f 


.' ; 


.  'I  • 


would  have  made  an  asrcni^ion  into  the  clouds,  but  liic  Pow- 
(•r  thai  coiifineH  tlic  sea  to  its  boundaries  and  saiii — "  Ililli- 
irto  fiilialt  tliou  conio,"  watoliod  over  our  preservation.  The 
■spiral  (-•f/luiiin  inovod  inaji  stically  towards  the  jN'orth,  and 
lighted  on  the  surface  of  \hv  tMalle.  Then,  another  scene 
was  exhibited  to  our  view.  The  waters,  a^filated  by  its  pow- 
erful action,  began  to  turn  round  with  frightful  noise,  and 
were  j-uddtidy  drawn  lip  to  the  clouds  in  a  sj)iral  form. 
'I'lie  column  appeared  to  measure  a  mile  in  heiglit ;  and 
such  was  the  violence  of  the  winds  which  came  down  in  a 
perpendicular  direction,  th;.l  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye  the 
trees  were  torn  and  u|)rooled,  and  their  boughs  scattered  in 
every  direction.  lUit  what  is  violent  does  not  last.  Alter 
a  few  ntinutcs,  the  frightful  visitation  ceased.  'J'he  colunin, 
not  being  able  to  sustain  the  weight  at  its  base  was  dissolv- 
ed almost  as  quickly  as  it  had  been  formed.  Soon  after  the 
sunie-appeared:  all  was  calm  and  we  pursued  our  journey. 
In  proportion  as  we  proceeded  towards  the  sources  of  this 
wonderful  river,  the  shades  of  vegetation  became  more 
gloomy,  and  the  brows  of  the  mountains  more  cragged. 
Every  thiiig  seemed  to  wear  the  aspect,  not  of  decay,  but 
of  age,  or  rather  of  venerable  antiquity.  Our  joy  was  ex- 
talic  as  we  sung  the  following  Ode  composed  for  the  occa- 
sion : 

Non  ce  n'est  plus  unc  ombre  vaine, 
Mcs  yeux  out  vu,  j'cn  siiis  certain, 
Dans  I'azur  ir>in  brilliant  luintain, 
Des  ■Nlonts  Uochcux  la  haute  cliainc,  ^:c. 


:r. 


y 


r    i 


01  no — it  is  no  shadow  vain, 
''I'hat  gff'cts  my  sight — yon  lofty  chain 
That  ])ierces  the  etliereal  blue; 
The  Rocky  Mounts  appear  in  view. 


I've  seen  the  spotless,  virgin  snow, 
Glist'ning  like  gems  u))on  their  brow — 


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Ode.  85 

And  o'er  yon  giant  peak  now  streams 
The  golden  light  of  day's  first  beams. 

How  from  their  ice-clad  summits,  steep, 
The  living  waters  Joyous  leap! 
And  gently  on  thro'  vallies  gay, 
Sweeter  than  honey  wend  their  way. 

It  is  because  on  yon  proud  height, 
The  standard  floats  of  life  and  light: 
It  is,  that  there  th'  Omnipotent 
Hath  pitched  His  everlasting  tent — 
The  God  whose  love  no  tongue  can  tell, 
Among  his  children  deigns  to  dwell. 

All  hail!  majestic  Kock — the  home 
Where  many  a  wand'rcryet  shall  come; 
Where  God  himself,  from  His  own  heart, 
Shall  health  and  peace  and  joy  impart. 

Sorrow  adieu — farewell  to  fear, — 
The  sweet-voiced  hymn  of  peace  I  hear; 
Its  tone  hath  touched  the  red-man's  soul : 
Lo  !  o'er  his  dark  breast  tear-drops  roll. 

O  !  soon  the  ftilent  wilderness 

Shall  echo  with  his  song  of  praise; 

And  infant  lips,  from  morn  till  ev'n, 

Shall  chaunt  thy  love — great  King  of  heav'n. 

Father  and  God!  how  far  above 

All  human  thought.  Thy  wondious  love! 

How  strange  the  path  by  which  Thy  hand 

Would  lead  the  Tribes  of  this  bleak  land, 

From  darkness,  crime  and  misery, 

To  live  and  reign  in  bliss  with  Thee! 

As  I  have  been  speaking  of  rivers  I  shall  give  (you)  a 
short  geographical  description  of  the  Missouri,  which  I  am 

8 


f  i. 


in  * 


86 


The  Missouri  River. 


inclined  to  call  my  livcr,  as   I  have  so  often  ascended  and 
descended  it  durintj  the  last  four  years,  travelled  along  its 
banks,  and  crossed  almost  all  its  tributaries  from  the  mouth 
ul  the  Yellow  Stone  to  the  place  where  th"  mighty  river 
mingles  its  turbid  stream  with  that  of  the  po-auelul  ]Mi^;sis• 
sippi.     I  have  drunk  the  limpid  waters  of  its  sources,  and 
the  muddy  waters  :tt  its  mouth,   distant   more  than  three 
thousand  miles  from  each  other.     The  prodigious  length  of 
its  couriie,  the  wildness  and  impetuosity  of  its  current  have 
induced  the  Scioux  to  call  it  "  the/wrio?<s."     Whenever  1 
crossed  this  magniticent  river  the  sensations  which  i  experi- 
enced bordered  on  the  sublime, and  my  imagination  transport- 
ed me  thiough  the  world  of  prairies  which  it  feitdises,  to 
the  colossal  mountains  whence  it  issues.     It  is  in  the  lieart 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  that  the  Missouri  takea  its  rise, 
together   with  many  other  magnificent  streams ;  such   as 
'•  the  Father  of  Waters,"  into  whose  bosom  it  flows,  after 
having  fertilised  its  own  borders  to  a  vast  extent, — the  Ar- 
kansas, and  the  Red  river,  both,  like  itself,  mnjestic  tribu- 
taries ;  the  Columb'".,   which  becomes  the  reservoir  of  all 
the  waters  of  the  Oregon  territory,  and  the  Rio   Colorado 
which  after  winding  its  course  through  a  gloomy  and  rocky 
desert,   invigorates  the  most  beautiful  part  of  Califoinia. 
The  Missouri,  properly  so  called,  is  formed  by  three  con- 
siderable forks  that  unite  their  waters  at  the  entrance  of  one 
of  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  mountains.     The  North  fork  is 
called  "  the  Jefferson,"  the  South  "  the  Gallatin,"  and  the 
one  between  them  •'  the  Madison."     Each  one  of  these  is 
subdivided  into  several  small  arms  that  flow  from  the  moun- 
tains, and  almost  mingle  their  waters  with  those  of  the  up- 
per forks  of  the  Columbia  on   the  western  side.     I  have 
drunk  of  both,  distant  only   about  flfty  yards  from  each 
other ;  for  the  same  field  of  snow  supplies  both  the  Atlan- 


The  Missouri  River. 


S7 


>inia. 
con- 
If  one 
irk  ia 
the 
bse  ia 
loun- 
up- 
Ihave 
each 
Lllan- 


tic  and  Pacific  oceans.     After  the  junction  of  the  forks,  the 
Missouri  for  a  consich'rahle  distance,  becomes  an  impetuous 
and  foaming  torrent.     Below  this,  its  bed  is  more  spacious, 
and  its  cour.-e  more  tranquil.     Steep  rocks  of  a  black  hue 
jut  and  rise  above  its  current  to  a  height  of  nearly  a  thou- 
sand feet.     The  mountains,  along  whose  base  it   nins,  are 
shaded  by  pines,  cedars,  fir  and  turpentine  trees.     Some  of 
these  mountains  present  a  solitary  aspect,  and  wear  a  look 
of  unspeakable  grandeur.  The  river,  for  tlie  space  of  seven- 
teen miles,  is  seen  raging  and  foaming,  rolling  from  cata- 
ract to  cataract  witjj  a  roaring  noise  that  is  repeated  by  all 
the  ncijjhborinj;  echoes.     'I'lie  first  of  these  cataracts  mea- 
suros  ninoty«eight   feet  in    heigiit ;  the  second,    nineteen ; 
the  third,  forty-seven,  tnd  the  fourth,  twenty-six.     Below 
the  Falls,  the  beautiful  river  of   Mary,   (lowing  from  the 
North,  adds   its  peaceful  waters  to  those  o(   the  rapid  and 
impetuous  stream.     Still  lower,  but  on  the  opposite  side, 
the  Ilearborn  and  the  Fancy  disembogue  themselves  through 
mouths  respectively  150  feet  in  width.     After  many  other 
rivers  of  considerable  widiii  and  extent,  we  come  to  the  Yel- 
low Stone,  the  largest  but  one  of  all  the  tributaries  of  the 
Missouri,  and  resembling  the  latter  in  many  respects.  This 
river  too  has  its  source  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  is  850 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth  ;  its  bed  is  spacious,  its  current  ra- 
pid; its  length  is  about    1600  miles,  and  at  its   confiuence 
with  the  Missouri   it  appears  to  be  the  larger  of  the  two. 
For  a  considerable  distance  above  the  mouth  its  banks  arc 
well  wooded,  and  its  bottom  lands  are  extensive  and  very 
fertile.     The  grey  and  black  bear,  the  big  horn,  the  ante- 
lope, the  stag  and  the  common  deer  frequent  these  regions, 
whilst  coal  and  iron  mines  are  in  such  abundance  that  for  50 
years  they  might  supply  fuel  and  materials  to  a  countless 
number  of  steam  engines. 


<ll 


I 


;    ^'i 


\  h|I 


i 

1  I 


I  I 

I 


\ 


88 


Tributaries  of  the  I\Iissouri. 


i'l 


After  the  Missouri  has  received  the   Yellow  Stone  river, 
its  bottom  lands  become  more  extensive  ;  yet  as  little  or  no 
wood  is  found  on  them,  it  may  be  long  before  attempts  will 
be  made  to  cultivate  tlicin.     The  While  Earth  river  coming 
from  the   North,  and  the  (Joo?n  river  from  the  South,  are 
not  very  considerable.     Tiie  width  of  eacli  at  the  mouth  is 
300  yards.     The  Little   iMissouri,  though   shallow,  hasi  a 
rapid  current,  and  has  its  sources  in  the  South,  as  also  the 
following  Kireams  :  (.'ane  river,  near  the  village  of  the  Man- 
dans  ;    Cannon   Ball  river,    Winnipenhu,  Sewarzena  and 
Shcyenne  river,  which  is  navi^nible  for  400  miles;  a  rapid 
and  muddy  stream,  400  yards  at  the  mouih  ;   Peton  river 
and  White  riser,  no  ealled  on  account  of  the  color  of  its  wa- 
ters,  which  are   unwholesome.     It    is    navigable   for  300 
miles,  has  a  rapid  current,  and  measures  about  300  yards  at 
its  mouth.     The  lands  which  it  waters  in  the  upper  coun- 
try are  barren,  and  abound  in  animal  and   vegetable  petri- 
factions, whilst  its  banks  have  every  where  a  fantastic  ap- 
pearance.    Next  and  on  tlie  same  side  we  meet  the  Poncas 
and  Running  Water  river,   the  latter  of  which  has  a  fine 
current.     Medicine  and  Jacques  rivers  enter  the  iMissouri 
from  the  opposite  side:  the  latter  is  also  called  the  rendez- 
vous of  the  beaver  hunters  and  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the 
Missouri.     After  ths  White  Stone  and  the   Vermillion,  we 
find  the  Big  Scioux  river,  on  which  is  found  the  fine  red 
stone  quarry  explored  by  the  Indians  to  make  their  calu- 
mets.    The   Floyd  and    the  Koger,    the  Maringoin,    the 
Nishnebatlana  and  the  Nedow  a  fall  into  the  Missouri  on  the 
Northern  side.     Its  chief  tilbutary,  the  Platte,  rises  like 
itself  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  extends  its  course  nearly 
two  thousand  miles.  Though  it  be  a  mile  wide  at  the  mouth 
yet  it  is  shallow,  as  its  name  indicates,  and  is  not  naviga- 
ble    the  two  Newahas  flow  from  the  South  and  the  Little 


T        »l 


Tributaries  of  the  Mhsovri. 


80 


Plalte  from  the  North.  The  Kanzaa,  on  ihe  South  side,  is 
about  a  thousand  miles  lonjif,  and  is  naviuahlo  to  a  great  dis- 
tance. Grand  river,  from  the  North,  is  a  wide,  deep  and 
navijrable  stream.  The  two  Charelons  are  found  on  the 
same  side,  whilst  the  Osage  and  Gasconade  rivers  enter 
from  the  South.  The  former  is  an  important  stream,  navi- 
gable (or  GOO  mile.s,  and  having  its  sources  near  the  waters 
of  the  Arkansas;  whilst  the  latter,  though  navigable  only 
for  60  miles,  is  equally  important,  on  account  of  the  fine 
large  pine  forests  that  supply  St.  Louis  and  the  adjacent 
country  with  lumber.  I  shall  say  nothing  of  the  many 
other  less  remarkable  tributaries  of  the  Missouri,  such  as 
the  Blue  Water,  the  Mine,  the  Bonne  Femme,  the  'Mani- 
too,  the  Muddy,  the  Jjoutre,  the  Cedar,  the  Buflalo,  the  St, 
.Tohns,  the  Wood  river,  the  Charette  Bonliomme,  Femme, 
Osage,  (fcc.  The  length  of  the  Missouri,  from  its  sources 
to  the  Yellow  Stone,  is  880  miles,  from  the  Yellow  Stone 
to  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  is  about  2200.  I  sub- 
join a  list  of  the  Forks  of  its  great  tributaries  which  I  have 
seen  and  crossed. 

Beaver  Head,  Big  Hole  Fork,  Stinking  Water,  Forks 
of  the  JelTcrson,  Powder  River,  Tongue  River,  Rose-bud 
River,  Big  Horn  River,  Clarke  River,  Rocky  River,  Tra- 
verse River,  Loutre  River,  25  Yard  River,  Gallatin  River, 
Wind  River,  Forks  of  the  Yellow  Stone.  Horn  River, 
Wolf  River,  Bigwood  River,  North  Fork  River,  South 
Fork  River,  Cabin  Pole  River,  Horse  River,  La  Ramee, 
Eau  Sucree,  Forks  of  the  Platte.  Grande  Sabieuse,  Horse 
Shoe  River,  St.  Peter's  River,  Red  River,  Kennion  River, 
Deer  River,  The  Torrent,  Branches  of  the  North  Fork  of 
the  Platte.  Soldier's  River,  Ouaggerehoosse  River,  Vermil- 
lion River,  Black  Vermillion  River,  Sick  River,  Knife 
River,  Blue  Waters,  Forks  of  the  Kanzas.    Mary's  River, 

8* 


i 

■ 


\ 


I 


I 


f 


1  w 


^ 


hi 


P' 


i-f 


ic  M 


90 


Meeting  of  the  flat  Heads. 


Big   Hone,    Yungar  River,   Potatoes  River,  Grand  Fork, 
Forks  of  I  he  Osage. 

1  left  oil"  my  narrative  on  Sugar  River,  otherwise  called 
Eau  Sucree ;  I  must  interrupt  it  to  listen  to  the  good  tidings 
that  are  brought  from  the  mountains. 

I  remain,  Rev.  and  Dear  Father, 

Your  dutiful  Son  in  Christ, 

P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


LETTER    V. 


Fort  Hall,  August  16ih,  1841. 
Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial : 

It  was  on  the  eve  of  the  beautiful  festival  of  the  assumption 
that  we  met  the  vanguard  of  the  Fl  it  Heads.  We  met  un- 
der the  happiest  auspices,  and  our  joy  was  proportionate. 
The  joy  of  the  savage  is  not  openly  manifested — that  of  our 
dearncophytes  was  tranquil ;  but  from  the  beaming  serenity 
of  their  looks,  and  the  feeling  manner  in  which  they  pressed 
oui  hands,  it  was  easy  to  perceive  that,  like  the  joy  which 
has  its  source  in  virtue,  theirs  was  heartfelt  and  profound. 
What  had  they  not  done  to  obtain  a  mission  of  "Black 
Gowns  ?"  For  twenty  years  they  had  not  ceased  to  sup- 
plicate the  Father  of  mercies  ;  for  twenty  years,  in  compli- 
ance with  the  counsels  of  the  poor  Iroquois,  who  had  es- 


.'!' 


Indian  Ainbasmdors. 


91 


P- 

lli- 


tablishcd  tlicmselvcs  in  their  irilx',  llicy  had  conformed,  ns 
nearly  ns  ihcy  could,  to  our  creed,  our  manners,  and  even  in 
our  reh^ious  practices.  In  what  ('athohc  parisli  was  the 
SundaVi  ior  example,  ever  more  reli},Mously  observed  .' — 
During  the  ten  years  just  elapsed,  lour  deputations,  each 
starting  from  the  banks  of  the  Hitter  Root,  on  which  they 
usually  assembled,  had  courageously  ventured  to  St.  Louis, 
over  a  space  of  3000  miles, — over  mountains  and  vallies, 
infested  by  Black  I'eet  and  other  hostile  tribes. 

Of  the  first  deputation,  which  started  in  Irt.'H,  three 
died  of  diseases  produced  by  the  change  of  climate.  The 
second  embassy  reached  its  destination;  but  owing  to  the 
great  want  of  missionaries  in  llie  Dioccss  of  St.  Louis,'  re- 
ceived nothing  but  promises.  The  third,  which  set  out  in 
1837,  consisted  of  five  members,  all  ol  whom  were  un- 
mercifully massacred  by  the  Scioux.  All  these  crosses, 
however,  were  insuflicienl  to  abate  'heir  zeal.  In  1839, 
they  sent  two  Iroquois  deputies,  one  of  whom  was  named 
Peter,  and  the  other  "  Young  Ignatius,"  to  distinguish  him 
from  another  called  "  Old  Ignatius."  These  they  earnestly 
advised  to  make  still  more  pressing  entreaties  to  obtain  the 
long  sought  blessing,  a  "  Black  Gown,  to  conduct  them  to 
heaven."  Their  prayers  were,  at  length,  heard,  t.vv.r  be- 
yond their  hopes.  One  Black  Gown  was  granted,  together 
with  a  promise  of  more,  if  necessary  for  their  greater  good. 
While  Peter  returned  in  hasie  to  ihe  tribe  to  acquaint  them 
with  the  complete  success  of  their  mission,  Ignatius  re- 
mained at  Weslport,  to  accompany  the  promised  mission- 
ary. I  had  the  happiness  to  be  that  missionary  ;  I  visited 
the  nation,  and  became  acquainted,  in  person,  with  their 
wants,  their  dispositions,  and  the  necessities  of  the  neigh* 
boring  tribes.  After  an  absence  of  a  year,  I  was  now  re- 
turning to  them  no  longer  alone,  but  with  two  Fathers, 


i  ) 


r 


M  i^' 


1 1 


I 


It 


08 


rictif  of  a  Chief. 


three  brolliers,  laborers  and  all  that  was  essential  to  ihe 
success  of  the  expedition.  They  themselves  had  travelled 
upwards  of  800  miles  to  meet  us,  and  now,  that  we  were 
lof^elher,  hoth  parties  were  full  of  vipor  and  hope.  What 
joy  must  not  these  good  Indians,  at  that  moment,  have  expe- 
rienced? Being  unable,  however,  to  express  iheir  happi- 
ness, ihey  were  silent:  their  silence  surely  could  not  be  as- 
cribed to  a  deficiency  of  intelligence  or  a  want  of  senti- 
ment, for  the  Flat  Heads  are  full  of  feeling,  and  many  are 
truly  intelligent.  These,  too,  were  the  elite  of  the  nation. 
Judge  of  it  by  what  follows. 

'I'he  chief  of  this  little  embassy  pourtrayed  himself  in 
the  following  address  to  his  companions,  a  few  days  sub- 
sequently, on  viewing  the  plan  of  the  first  hamlet:  "  My 
dear  children,"  said  he,  "  I  am  but  an  ignorant  and  wicked 
man,  yet  1  ihank  the  Great  Spirit  for  the  favors  which  he 
has  conferred  on  us, — (and  entering  here  into  an  admirable 
detail,  he  concluded  thus  :)  Yes,  my  dear  friends,  my  heart 
has  found  content ;  notwithstanding  my  wickedness  I  de- 
spair not  of  the  goodness  of  God.  Henceforth,  I  wish  to 
live  only  that  I  may  pray ;  1  will  never  abandon  prayer ; 
(religion)  I  will  pray  until  the  end  of  my  life,  and  when  I 
die  I  will  commit  myself  into  the  hands  of  the  Author  of 
life ;  if  he  condemn  me,  I  shall  submit  to  his  will,  for  I  have 
deserved  punishment ;  if  he  save  me,  I  shall  bless  him  for- 
ever. Once  more,  then,  my  heart  has  found  content. — 
What  shall  we  do  to  evince  the  love  we  bear  our  fathers?" 
Here  he  made  practical  resolutions,  but  I  must  hasten  to 
commemorate  the  zeal  of  each  of  those  who  formed  the  em- 
bassy. 

Simon,  who  had  been  baptised  the  preceding  year,  was 
the  oldest  of  the  nation,  and  was  so  burdened  with  the 
weight  of  years,  that  even  when  seated,  he  needed  a  stick 


■  ft       1 ; 


An  .^rrcr'   ff'arrior. 


03 


for  his  support.  Yet,  lie  liacl  no  Houncr  ascertained  that 
we  wero  on  our  route  to  join  tlic  tribe,  tliun  mounting,'  liis 
horse  and  min^linij  wiUi  the  young  warriors  who  were 
prepared  to  j^o  forth  to  meet  us,  he  said  :  "  My  chihircn,  I 
slial!  accompany  you  ;  if  i  dif.'  on  the  way,  our  I'alhrr!',  at 


least,   will   know    ilie   cauiu"  of 


my 


death 


I) 


utmir 


the 


course  of  the  journey,  ho  repeatedly  exhorted  his  compan- 
ions :  "c()ura;|e,  my  children, "  he  nfjuld  say,  "  remember 
that  we  are  going  to  ilic  presence  of  our  Fathers;"  and 
urging  hid  steed  forward,  wiiip  in  hand,  he  led  on  his  youth- 
I'ul  followers,  at  the  rale  of  lifiy  niMes  per  day. 

Francis,  a  boy  from  six  to  seven  years  old,  grand  son  of 
Simon,  was  an  orphan  from  the  very  cradle.  Ilai'ing 
served  at  the  altar,  the  preceding  year,  he  would  not  be 
refused  permission  to  accompany  his  grandfather:  his 
heart  told  him  that  he  was  abdut  to  recover  father  and 
mother,  and  enjoy  all  the  happiness  that  loving  parents  can 
bestow-. 

Ignatius,  who  had  advised  the  fourih  deputation,  and 
had  been  a  member  of  it, — who  had  succeeded  in  his  mis- 
sion, and  introduced  the  tircl  JJIack  Gown  into  the  tribe, — 
who  had  just  rccenily  exposed  liimsclf  to  new  dangers,  in 
order  to  iulroducc  others,  had  crowned  his  zealous  exer- 
tions by  running  for  days  without  eating  or  drinking,  solely 
that  he  might  reach  us  the  sooner. 

Pilehimo,  his  companion  and  broiher  to  one  of  the  mar- 
tyrs of  the  third  deputation,  was  a  young  warrior,  already 
reputed  brave  among  the  biave.  The  preceding  year, 
his  presence  of  mind  and  his  courage  had  saved  seventy  of 
his  brethren  in  arms  from  the  fury  of  nearly  nineteen  hun- 
dred Black  Feet. 

Francis  Xavier  was  the  son  of  old  Ignatius,  who  had 
been  the  leader  of  the  second  and  third  deputation,  and  had 


Hi 


I 


'!        I 


r', 


tr 


f  > 


I    m 


94 


Dmlij  Prayer. 


fallen  a  victim  to  liie  devotion  to  the  cause  of  religion  and 

'ranci 


of  liiH  brethren.     V 


Xavicr  had  j^onc  to  St.  liOiiis  at 

father, 


the  age  of  (en,  in  the  company  of  his  courageous 

receiving  bap- 

3Ut  reserve  to 

d  su[>plied  our  table  with  a 


solely  that  he  might  have  the  happiness  of 
tism.     He  had  finnlly  attached  himself  wit 


th 


)f  th 


e  service  ot   the  mitssion,  am 
daily  mess  of  fish. 

(jabriel,  who  was  of  mixed  blood,  but  an  adopted  child 
of  the  nition,  was  interpreter  fur  the  mi$)sionarics.  Being 
the  first  to  join  us  on  the  banks  of  the  CJretn  river,  he  me- 
rited the  title  of  precursor  of  the  Flat  Heads.  His  bravery 
and  zeal  had  four  times  induced  him  to  travel,  for  our  sake:', 
over  a  space  of  400  miles,  which  separated  us  from  the 
great  ramp. 

Such  were  they  who  now  greeted  us.  Let  them  tell 
their  own  story. 

They  had  prayed  daily  to  obtain  for  me  a  happy  journey 
and  a  speedy  return.  Their  brethren  continued  in  the 
same  good  disposition  ;  almost  all,  even  children  and  old 
men,  knew  by  heart  the  prayers  which  I  had  taught  them 
the  preceding  year.  Twice  on  every  week  day,  and  three 
times  on  each  Sunday,  the  assembled  tribe  recited  prayers 
in  common.  Whenever  they  moved  their  camp,  they  car- 
ried with  them,  as  an  ark  of  safety,  the  box  of  ornaments 
left  in  their  custody.  Five  or  six  children,  whom  1  had 
baptised  went  to  heaven  during  my  absence ;  the  very 
morrow  of  my  departure,  a  young  warrior  whom  1  had 
baptised  the  day  previous,  died  in  consequence  of  a  wound 
received  from  the  Black  Feet  about  three  months  before. — 
Another,  who  had  accompanied  me  as  far  as  the  fort  of  th(^ 
Crows,  and  was  as  yet  but  a  catechumen,  died  of  sickness 
in  returning  to  the  tribe,  but  in  such  happy  dispositions  thai 
his  mother  was  perfectly  consoled  for  his  loss  by  the  con- 


tell 


the 
old 
liem 
ihree 
lyers 
car- 
lents 
had 
Ivery 
had 
mnd 

the 
Iness 
[thai 

;on- 


A  happy  death. 


96 


viction  thnl  \m  soid  wan  in  heaven.     A  {.'irt,  about  twelve 
years  of  age,  seeing  herscll'  on  the  point  ol  dying,  had  soli- 
cited baptism   with  such  cirncstni^ss  that  shu  was  baptised 
by  Pelor  the  Irixjuois,  ami  tccuivcd  '.he  nan;o  ot"  Mary. — 
Alter  having  sung  u  canticle  in  a  stronger  voice  than  usual, 
she  died,  saying:  ''Oh  how  beautiful!  I  sec  Mary,  my 
mother."     So  many  favors  from  heaven  were  calculated  to 
instigate  the  malice  of  hell.     The  enemies  of  salvation  had 
accordingly  alleinpted  to  sow  the  cockle  among  the  good 
grain,  by  suggesting  to  the  chiefs  of  iho  tribe  that  my  con- 
duct would  be  like  that  of  so  many  others,  who,  "  once 
gone,  had  never  returned."     IJut  the  great  chief  had  inva- 
riably replied  :  •'  You  wrong  our  father;  he  is  not  double- 
tongued,  like  so  many  others.     lie  has  said:  M  will  re- 
turn,' and   he  will    return,  I  am  sure."     The  interpreter 
added  that  it  was  this  conviction  which  had  impelled  the 
venerable  old  man,  notwithstanding  his  advanced  age,  to 
place  iiimself  at   the  head  of  the   detachment  bound  for 
Green  river :  that  thev  had  arrived  at  the  rendezvous  on  the 
1st  of  July,  which  was  the  appointed  day;  that  they  had 
remained  there  till  the  16th,  and  would  have  continued  to 
occupy  the  same  position,  had  not  the  scarcity  of  provisions 
obliged   tiiem  to  depart.     He  stated  also  that  the  whole 
tribe  had  determined  to  fix  upon  some  spot  as  a  site  for  a 
permanent  village;  that,  with  this  view,  they  had  already 
chosen  two  places  which  they  believed  to  be  suitable ;  that 
nothing  but  our  presence  was  required  to  confirm  their  de- 
termination, and  they  relied  with  such  implicit  confidence 
on  our  speedy  arrival,  that  the  great  chief,  on  starting  from 
Green  river,  had  left  there  three  men  to  await  us,  advising 
them  to  hold  that  position  until  no  longer  tenable. 

Here,  I  have  much  to  relate  that  is  not  less  edifying  than 
serious ;  but  before  I  enter  upon  the  chapter  of  noble  ac« 


^M 


:    I 


.11 


V 


f\,.  , 


1 1 
I  ■ 


M' 


90 


,^n   English   Companion. 


lions,  I  must  conclude  what  I  had  commenced  in  my  pre- 
ceding letier.  IJut  I  feel  bound,  before  all,  to  pay  Mr.  Er- 
matinger,  ilie  captain  of  Fort  Hall,  the  tribute  of  gratitude 
which  we  owe  him. 

Although  a  proteslant  by  birth,  this  noble  Englishman 
gave  us  a  most  friendly  reception.  Not  only  did  he  re- 
peatedly invite  us  to  his  tabh.  a  id  sell  us,  at  iirst  cost,  or  at 
one-third  of  its  value,  in  a  country  so  remote,  whatever  we 
required  ;  but  he  also  added,  as  pure  gifts,  many  articles 
which  he  believed  would  be  particu^jirly  acceptable.  He 
did  more :  he  promised  to  recommend  us  to  the  good  will 
of  the  Governor  of  «he  honorable  English  Company,  who 
was  already  prepossessed  in  our  favor ;  and,  what  is  still 
more  deserving  of  praise,  he  assured  us  that  he  would 
second  our  ministry  among  the  populous  nation  of  the 
Snakes,  with  whom  he  has  freqiunt  intercourse.  So  much 
zeal  and  generosity  give  him  a  claim  to  our  esteem  and  gra- 
titude. May  heaven  return  to  him  a  hundred  fold  the  bene- 
fits he  has  confeircd  on  us.  It  was  at  Foit  Hall  that  we 
took  our  final  leave  of  the  American  Colony,  with  which 
we  had,  till  then,  purs-ued  the  same  route.  It  was  previously 
to  this,  wiiile  we  were  yet  at  Green  river,  that  those  who 
came  to  that  wild  region,  merely  for  information  or  plea- 
sure, had  turned  back,  with  some  fewer  illusions  than 
when  they  started  out  upon  the  journey.  They  were  five 
or  six  in  number.  Among  them  was  a  young  Englishman, 
who  had  been  our  messmate  from  St.  Louis.  In  taking 
leave  of  us,  this  young  man,  who  was  in  many  respects  es- 
timable, assured  us  that,  if  providence  should  ever  again 
throw  us  together,  the  meeting  would  give  him  the  highest 
satisfaction,  and  that  he  would  always  be  happy  to  do  us  all 
the  service  in  his  power.  He  was  of  a  good  English  fam- 
ily, and  like  most  of  his  countrymen,  fond  of  travel :  he  had 


1  , 


The   Methodist  Preacher. 


97 


already  seen  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe  ;  but  qui  miiltum 

peregrinanlur He  cherished  so  many  prejudices, 

however,  against  the  Catholic  religion,  that,  despite  all  our 
good  wishes,  we  were  of  no  service  to  him  in  the  most  es- 
sential relation.  We  recommended  him  to  our  friends.  I 
have  treasured  up  one  of  his  beautiful  reflections:  "  We  must 
travel  in  the  desert  to  witness  the  watchful  care  of  Provi- 
dence over  the  wants  of  man." 

They  who  had  started,  purely  with  the  design  of  seek- 
ing their  fortune  in  California,  and  were  pursuing  their 
enterprise  with  the  constancy  which  is  characteristic  of 
Americans,  had  left  us,  but  a  few  days  before  our  arrival  at 
the  fort,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  boiling  springs  which  empty 
into  Bear  river.  There  now  remained  with  us  but  a  few 
of  the  party,  who  had  come  to  the  fort  in  order  to  revictual. 
Among  the  latter  were  the  leader  of  the  Colony  and  a  repu- 
ted deacon  of  the  Methodist  sect.  Both  were  of  a  peacea- 
ble disposition,  and  manifested  for  us  the  highest  regard  ; 
but  the  former,  like  so  many  others,  being  very  indifferent 
as  to  religious  matters,  held  as  a  maxim,  "  that  it  was  best 
to  have  no  religion,  or  else  to  adopt  that  of  the  country  in 
which  we  live;"  ant  wishing  to  display  his  great  Bible 
eruditicn,  he  in  proof  of  his  paradox,  cited  as  a  text  of  St. 
Paul  the  ancient  proverb  :  Si  fueris  Romre,  Romano  vivite 
more.  The  minister  was  of  the  same  opinion,  but  yet  he 
wished  some  religion,  it  being  well  understood  that  iiis  was 
the  best.  I  say  his,  because  he  was  neither  a  Methodist,  a 
Protestant  nor  a  Catholic — not  even  a  Christian  ;  he  main- 
tained that  a  Jew,  a  Turk,  or  an  Idolatar  may  be  as  agreea- 
ble as  any  other  in  the  sight  of  God.  For  the  proof  of  his 
doctrine,  he  relied  (strange  to  say)  on  the  authority  of  St. 
Paul,  and  particularly  on  this  text :  Unus  Dominus  una 
fides.     In  fact,  these  were  the  very  words  with  which  he 

9 


I 


K. 


|7 

1  fj 

V 

< 

i 

1 

i 

1 

n 

I 


t\ 


!>;- 


\l\ 


:^^ 


X'. 


98 


Influence  of  Prejudice. 


greeted  us,  the  first  time  we  saw  him,  and  which  formed 
the  subject  of  a  long  valedictory  discourse  that  he  delivered 
in  one  of  the  meeting  houses  of  Wesiport,  previous  to  his 
departure  for  his  western  mission.  By  whom  was  he  sent  ? 
We  have  never  ascertained.  His  zeal  frequently  induced 
liim  to  dispute  with  us  ;  it  was  not  difllcult  to  show  him  that 
his  ideas,  with  the  exception  of  one,  were  vague  and  fluc- 
tuating. He  acknowledged  it  himself;  but  after  having 
wandered  from  point  to  point,  he  always  returned  to  his 
favorite  tenet,  which,  according  to  him,  was  the  fundamen- 
tal principle  of  all  true  belief:  "  tliat  the  love  of  God  is  the 
first  of  duties,  and  that  to  inculcate  it  we  must  be  tolerant." 
This  was  his  strongest  point  of  support,  the  foundation  of 
all  his  reasoning,  and  the  stimulus  of  his  zeal.  The  term 
Catholic,  according  to  him,  was  but  another  word  for  "  love 
and  philanthropy."  He  carried  his  absurdities  and  contra- 
dictions so  far,  tiiat  he  excited  the  hilarity  of  the  whole 
camp.  His  ingenuous  simplicity  was  even  greater  than  his 
tolerance.  For  example,  he  once  said  to  me  :  "  Yesterday 
ene  of  the  memb'^rs  of  my  persuasion  returned  to  me  a 
book  which  I  had  Ifsnt  him,  slating  that  it  contained  an  ex- 
position of  the  Roman  creed."  When  I  asked  him  his 
opinion  of  it,  he  replied,  "  that  the  book  was  full  of  errors;" 
yet  it  was  an  exposition  of  Methodist  principles  that  I  had 
given  him.  **  Witness,"  said  he,  with  emphasis,  "  the 
blinding  influence  of  prejudice." 

I  had  daily  conversations  with  some  one  of  the  caravan, 
and  frequently  with  several.  And  although  Americans 
are  slow  to  change  their  creed,  we  had  the  consolation  to 
relieve  our  travelling  companions  of  a  heavy  load  of  pre- 
judice against  our  holy  religion.  They  parted  from  us, 
exhibiting  signs  of  respect  and  veneration ;  nay,  even  of 
preference  for  Catholicity.     These  controversies  so  com- 


'1 ' 

•  11 


f/, 


l;i 


•'it's- 

'     ! 
t 

J   •'■    •'  nil 
it 


i      .1 


l^         'J 


l^-\ 


m 


■w 

I 


I 


II 


The  ''DcviVs  Entrance:^ 


00 


pletely  engrossed  my  mind,  my  htai-t  and  my  senses,  ihat 
1  arrived  almost  unconsciously  on  the  banks  of  Snake 
river.  Here  a  great  danger  and  a  profitable  lesson  awaited 
us;  but  before  speaking  of  the  adventures  of  our  journey, 
I  shall  conclude  what  remains  to  be  related  of  the  country 
we  traversed. 

We  halted  with  our  narrative  upon  the  shore  of  the 
Sweet-water.  This  stream  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
tributaries  of  the  Platte.  It  owes  its  name,  indeed,  to  the 
purity  of  its  waters.  It  is  distinguished  from  its  fellow 
tributaries  by  the  numerous  wanderings  of  its  current — a 
proof  that  the  fall  of  its  bed  is  but  slight.  But  suddenly 
changing  its  course,  we  see  or  rather  hear  it  rushing- impe- 
tuously through  a  long  cleft  in  a  chain  of  mountains.  These 
mountains,  which  harmonize  well  with  the  torrent,  exhi- 
bit the  most  picturesque  scenes  ;  travellers  have  named  this 
spot  the  Devil's  Entrance.  In  my  opinion,  they  should 
have  rather  called  it  Heaven's  Avenue,  for  if  it  resembles 
hell  on  account  of  the  frightful  disorder  which  frowns 
aiound  it,  it  is  still  a  mere  passage,  and  it  should  rather  be 
compared  to  the  way  of  heaven  on  account  of  the  scene  to 
which  it  leads.  Imagine,  in  short,  two  rows  of  rocks,  ri- 
sing perpendicularly  to  a  wonderful  height,  and,  at  the  foot 
of  these  shapeless  walls,  a  winding  bed,  broken,  encumbered 
with  trunks  of  trees,  with  rubbislis  and  with  tiQiber  of  all 
dimensions  ;  while,  in  the  midst  of  this  chaos  of  obstacles, 
the  roaring  waves  force  a  passage,  now  rushing  with  fury, 
then  swelling  with  majesty,  and  anon  spreading  with  gen- 
tleness, accordingly  as  they  tind  in  their  course  a  wider  or 
more  straitened  passage.  Above  these  moving  and  noisy 
scenes,  the  eye  discerns  masses  of  shadow,  here  relieved 
by  a  glance  of  day,  there  deepening  in  their  gloom  by  the 
foliage  of  a  cedar  or  pine,  till  finally,  as  the  sight  travels 


I 

m 


'a 


.    I 

1    1 

I/. 


■  .!■■  i.ti 


'  ".I, 


I' 

■  i 

'\\ 
'hi 


\>  I  li 


100 


Oregon  Territory. 


V  '    i!i 


through  the  long  vista  of  lofty  galleries,  it  is  greeted  by  a 
distant  perspective  of  such  mild  beauty,  that  a  sentiment  of 
placid  happiness  steals  upon  the  mind.  Such  is  the  spec- 
tacle we  admired  at  the  distance  of  nine  or  ten  miles 
from  the  Rock  Independence,  on  the  morning  of  6th 
July.  I  doubt  whether  the  solitude  of  the  Carthusian  mo- 
nastery, called  La  Grande  Chartreuse,  of  which  so  many 
wonders  are  related,  can,  at  least  at  tirst  sight,  offer  greater 
attractions  to  him  whom  divine  grace  has  called  to  a  con- 
templative life.  As  fur  me,  who  am  not  called  to  such  a 
state,  at  least  exclusively,  after  an  hour  of  raptures,  I  be- 
gan to  understand  the  expression  of  the  Carthusian  friar, 
pulchrum  tranaewitibiis  ;  and  I  hastened  to  proceed. 

Hence  we  directed  our  course  more  and  more  towards 
the  heights  of  the  Far  West,  ascending,  some  times  clam- 
bering, until  we  reached  the  summit,  from  which  we  dis- 
covered another  world.  On  the  7th  of  July  we  were  in 
sight  of  the  immense  Oregon  Territory.  I  will  not  pre- 
sume to  add  to  the  many  pompous  descriptions  which 
have  been  given  of  the  spectacle  now  before  us.  I  shall 
say  nothing  either  of  the  height,  the  number,  or  the  variety 
of  those  peaks,  covered  with  eternal  snows,  which  rear 
their  heads,  with  menacing  aspect,  to  the  heavens.  Nor 
will  I  speak  of  the  many  streams  descending  from  them 
and  changing  their  course,  with  unexpected  suddenness ; 
nor  of  the  extreme  rarification  of  the  air  with  the  conse- 
quent effect  upon  objects  susceptible  of  contraction,  at  so 
great  an  elevation.  All  this  is  common  ;  but  to  the  glory  of 
the  Lord,  I  must  commemorate  the  imperious  necessity  I 
experienced,  of  tracing  his  holy  name  upon  a  rock,  which 
towered  pre-eminent  amid  the  grandeur  around.  May 
that  ever  adorable  name  be  to  travellers  a  monument  of  our 
gratitude,  and  a  pledge  of  salvation.     Henceforth  we  de- 


Losf  in  the  Desert. 


101 


scended  towards  the  Pacific — first,  by  lollowing,  then  by 
crossing  the  Little  and  the  Great  Sandy  Rivers.  In  the 
vicinity  of  the  latter,  as  the  Captain  had  mistaken  one  road 
for  another,  the  caravan  wandered  for  three  days  at  ran- 
dom. I,  myself,  on  a  fine  evening,  strayed  from  the  rest. 
I  thought  myself  entirely  lost;  how  was  I  to  act?  I  did 
what  every  sincere  believer  would  have  done  in  the  same 
circumstances,  I  prayed ;  and  then  urging  on  my  horse,  I 
travelled  several  miles,  when  it  struck  me  that  it  would  be 
prudent  to  retrace  my  steps.  I  did  so  instantly,  and  it  was 
fortunate,  for  the  caravan  was  far  behind.  I  found  it  en- 
camped ;  still  ignorant  however  of  its  position,  and  on  a  soil 
so  arid  that  our  jaded  beasts  were  necessitated  to  fast  for  the 
night.  Days  follow,  but  resemble  not  each  other;  two 
days  subsequently,  we  were  surrounded  with  abundance, 
filled  with  joy,  all  once  more  united,  and  on  thu  banks  of  a 
river  not  less  celebrated  among  the  hunters  of  the  west, 
than  the  shores  of  the  Platte.  This  river  loses  itself  not 
far  below,  in  clefts  of  rocks  said  to  be  no  less  than  two  hun- 
dred miles  in  extent,  among  which  there  are  countless 
swarms  of  beavers,  although  the  trapper  has  never  ventured 
to  hunt  them,  on  account  of  the  extreme  peril  of  the  enter- 
prise. At  a  certain  period  of  the  year,  both  trappers  and 
Indians  flock  to  this  spot,  for  the  purpose  of  bartering  all 
kinds  of  merchandise.  It  was  here,  but  eight  yeais 
ago,  the  wagons  that  first  undertook  to  cross  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  found  the  Pillars  of  Hercules,  and  it  was  here 
too  that  we  found  the  messenger  of  the  Flat  Heads,  to 
whom  I  have  already  alluded.  This  river  is  the  Rio  Colo- 
rado of  the  West.  .  .  .  We  rested  two  days  upon  its 
banks,  with  the  company  of  Captain  F.,  who  had  just  re- 
turned from  California.  What  they  told  us  concerning 
that  distant  country  dissipated  many  illusions,  and  caused 

9* 


•  M  i 


I  I 


i 


'\ 


n 


■1  •  fym 


i 


-ImA 


;»V  -ii 


102 


Salt  Lake. 


t 


if 


■■h   1 


some  of  our  companions,  who  travelled  for  amusement,  to 
return. 

On  the  20lh  of  July  we  seriously  thought  of  continuing 
our  journey.  To  a  company  like  ours,  it  was  not  an  easy 
matter.  The  remembrance  uf  the  expedition  of  Bonneville 
was  still  fresh  in  the  minds  of  all ;  but  our  object  was  not 
the  same;  we  had  no  ailicles  but  such  as  were  necessary. — 
They  could  be  transported  conveniently  only  by  wagons. 
We  placed  all  our  confidence  in  God.  We  soon  crossed 
the  river,  and  our  equippage  was  seen  coming  in  all  direc- 
tions, over  vallies  and  mountains.  We  were  compelled  to 
clear  a  passage,  some  times  in  the  middle  of  a  ravine,  some 
times  on  the  declivity  of  a  rock,  and  frequently  through 
bushes.  We  travelled  in  this  manner  for  ten  days,  to 
reach  Bear  river,  which  flows  through  a  wide  and  beauti- 
ful valley,  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains  and  often  inter- 
sected by  inaccessible  rocks.  We  continued  our  march 
through  it  duringeight  successive  days.  The  river  resembles 
in  its  course  the  form  of  a  horse  shoe,  and  falls  into  the  great 
Salt  lake,  which  has  no  communication  with  the  sea.  On 
our  way,  we  met  several  families  of  Soshonees  or  Snake 
Indians,  and  Soshocos  or  Uprooters.  They  speak  the 
same  language,  and  are  both  friends  to  the  whites.  The 
only  difll'erence  we  could  observe  between  them,  was  that 
the  latter  were  by  far  the  poorer.  They  formed  a  gro- 
tesque group,  such  as  is  not  to  be  seen  in  any  other  part  of 
the  Indian  territory.  Represent  to  yourself  a  band  of 
wretched  horses,  disproportionate  in  all  their  outlines,  load- 
ed with  bags  and  boxes  to  a  height  equal  to  their  own,  and 
these  surmounted  by  rational  beings  young  and  old,  male  and 
female,  in  a  variety  of  figures  and  costumes,  to  which  the 
pencil  of  a  Hogarth  or  a  Breugel  could  scarcely  do  justice, 
and  you  will  have  an  idea  of  the  scene  we  witnessed.    One 


ement,  to 


4- 


ontinuing 
it  an  easy 
onneville 
t  was  not 
Bssary. — 
wagons. 
n  crossed 
all  direc- 
ipelled  to 
ne,  some 
'  through 
days,  to 
d  beauti- 
Len  inter- 
ir  march 
esembles 
the  great 
lea.     On 
)r  Snake 
>eak   the 
s.     The 
was  that 
1  a  gro- 
r  part  of 
band  of 
es,  load- 
wn,  and 
nalc  and 
lich  the 
justice, 
d.    One 


^■''u 


1  ;    •  ; 

.'lisp 

It 


ti  V 


i'M 


m 


f 


:« 


M  Hi 


X. 


r. 


Soda  Springs. 


108 


5 


of  these  animals,  scarcely  four  feel  high,  had  for  its  load  four 
large  sacks  of  dried  meat,  two  on  each  side,  above  which 
were  tied  several  other  objects,  terminating  in  a  kind  of  plat- 
form on  the  back  of  the  living  beast;  and,  on  the  siininiit  oi 
the  whole  construction,  at  a  very  high  elevation,  was  seated 
cross-legged  on  a  bear  skin  a  very  old  person  smoking  his 
calmut.  At  his  side,  on  another  Rosinante,  was  mounted 
an  old  Goody,  probably  his  wile,  seated  in  the  same  man- 
ner on  the  top  of  sacks  and  bugs,  that  contained  all  sorta  ut 
roots,  dried  beans  and  fruits,  grains  and  berries;  in  short, 
all  such  comestibles  as  the  barren  mountains  and  the  beau- 
tiful vailies  alTord.  These  they  carried  to  their  winter  en- 
campment. Some  times  wo  have  seen  a  whole  family  on 
the  same  animal,  each  according  to  his  age,  the  children  u: 
front,  the  women  next,  and  the  men  behind.  On  two  occa- 
sions I  saw  thus  mounted,  five  persons,  of  whom  two  at 
least  had  the  appearance  of  being  as  able  to  carry  the  pooi 
horse  as  the  horse  was  to  support  the  weight  of  these  two 
Soshocos  gentlemen. 

Some  places  on  the  Bear  river  exhibit  great  natural  curi- 
osities. A  square  plain  of  a  few  acres  in  extent  presents  an 
even  surface  of  fuller's  earth  of  pure  whiteness,  like  that  of 
marble,  and  resembling  a  field  covered  with  dazzling  snow. 
Situated  near  this  plain  are  a  great  many  springs,  diflering 
in  size  and  temperature.  Several  of  them  have  a  slight 
taste  of  soda,  and  the  temperature  of  these,  is  cold.  The 
others  are  of  a  milk  warm  temperature,  and  must  he  whole- 
some ;  pcrh-ips  they  are  not  inlerior  to  the  celebrated  waters 
of  the  Spa,  or  of  the  lime  springs  in  IJelgium.  I  am  in- 
clined to  believe  so,  though  I  am  not  firm  in  the  opinion; 
at  all  events,  they  are  surrounded  by  the  mountains  over 
which  our  wagons  found  it  so  difTicult  to  pass.  I  therefore 
invite  neither   sick  nor  sound  to  test  them.     In  the  same 


'■I 


M 


t  f    ; 


'   '..i 


i 


i«  ;i1 


'■  1' 


iii:: 


104 


Ji  midnis^ht  Journey. 


I J  I' 


locality  tlicro  is  a  hole  in  the  ground,  ont  of  which  air  and 
water  escape  alternately.  The  earth  for  some  distancp 
around  resounds  like  an  immense  vault,  and  is  apt  to 
frighten  the  solitary  traveller  as  he  passes  along. 

It  was  here  that  we  left  Hear  Kiver.     On  the  14th  of 
August  our  wagons  having  proceeded  ten  hours   without 
intermission,  arrived  at  the  outlet  of  a  defile  which  seemed 
to  ns  the  end  of  the  world.     On  our  riglit  and  left  were 
frightful  mountains;  in  our  rear  a  road  which  we  were  by 
no  means  tempted  tu  retrace ;  in  front  a  passage  through 
which  rushed  a  torrent;  but  so  small  that  the  torrent  itself 
seemed  with  difliculty,  to  force  its  way.     Our  beasts  of 
burthen  were,  for  the  first  time,  exhausted.  Murmurs  arose 
against  the  captain,  who,  however,  was  imperturbable,  and 
as  he  never  shrunk  from  difficulties,  advanced  to  reconnoitre 
the  ground.     In   a  few  moments  he  made  us  a  sign  to  ap- 
proach ;  one  hour  after  we  had  surmounted  every  obstacle, 
for  we  had  traversed  the  highest  chain  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains and  were  nearly  in  sight  of  Fort  Hall.     On  the  even- 
ing previous  to  the  departure  of  the  camp  from  the  Soda 
Springs,  I  directed  my  course  towards  the  fort,  to  make  a 
few  necessary  arrangements.     The  young  F.  Xavier  was 
my  only  companion.  We  were  soon  involved  in  a  labyrinth 
of  mountains,  and  about  midnight,  we  were  on  the  summit 
of  the  highest  chain.     My  poor  guide,  being  able  to  see 
nothing  through  the  darkness  but  frightful  precipices,  was 
80  pitifully  embarrassed  that  after  veering  about  for  a  while, 
like  a  weather-cock,  he  confessed  himself  lost.     That  was 
not  a  place,  nor  was  it  a  time,  to  wander  at  random;  I,  there- 
fore, took,  what  I  considered,  the  only  alternative,  that  of 
waiting  for  the  morning  sun  to  extricate  us  from  our  em- 
barrassment.    Wrapped  up  in  ray  blanket  and  with  my 
saddle  for  a  pillow,  I  stretched  myself  upon  the  rock,  and 


m  ' 


Jlnivfif  at  Fort  Hall. 


105 


immcdialbly  fell  into  a  sound  sleep.  Early  liie  next  morn- 
ing, wc  descended  by  a  bfii:ill  cleft  \u  ific  rocks,  which  the 
obscurity  of  the  night  had  coiiCL.ilnd  and  arrived  on  a  plain 
watered  by  the  New  Port,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Snake 
River.  We  trotted  or  galloppcd  over  fifty  nnled  in  the 
course  of  the  day.  Tiio  whole  way  presented  evident  re- 
mains of  vulcanic  eruptions  ;  |)iles  and  veins  of  lava  were 
visible  in  all  directions,  and  the  rocks  bore  marks  of  having 
been  in  a  state  of  fusion.  The  rivor,  in  its  whole  length, 
exhibits  a  succession  of  beaver  puiidii,  emptying  into  each 
other  by  a  narrow  opening  in  each  dike,  thus  forming  a  fall 
of  between  three  and  six  feet.  All  these  dikes  are  of  stone, 
evidently  the  work  of  the  water  and  of  the  same  character 
and  substance  as  the  stalactites  found  in  some  caverns. 

We  arrived  late  in  the  evening,  within  half  a  mile  of  the 
Fort,  but  being  unable  to  see  our  way  in  the  darkness,  and 
not  knowing  where  wc  were,  wu  encamped  for  the  nigiit 
among  the  bushes,  near  the  margin  of  a  small  brook. 

I  have  the  honor  to  bu 

Rev.  Father  Provincial, 

Your  most  humble  and  obedient  servant  and  son, 

P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


Si 


'  t 


!  ,  tt 


i 


*'. 


m 

lit 


I 


LETTER  VI. 


m 


M 


Camp  of  the  Big-Face,  1st  Sept.  1841. 
Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial : 

Nearly  four  months  liad  elapsed  since  our  departure 
from  VVestpori,  wlien  we  met  the  main  body  of  the  nation 
to  which  we  had  been  sent.  Here  we  found  the  principal 
chiefs,  four  of  whom  had  advanced  a  day's  journey  to  wel- 
come us.  They  met  iis  at  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Mis- 
souri called  Beaver-Head,  where  we  had  encamped.  Hav- 
ing crossed  the  small  river  under  the  direction  of  these 
new  guides  we  came  to  an  extensive  plain,  at  the  wes- 
tern part  of  which  the  Flat  Heads  lay  encamped.  This  was 
on  the  30lh  of  August,  and  it  was  only  towards  night  that 
we  could  distinctly  discern  the  camp.  A  number  of  runners 
who  rapidly  succeeded  each  other,  informed  us  that  the 
camp  was  not  far  distant.  Contentment  and  joy  were  de- 
picted on  their  coantenances.  Long  before  the  Flat  Head 
warrior,  who  is  surnamed  the  Bravest  of  the  Brave,  sent  me 
his  finest  horse  to  Fort  Hall,  having  strongly  recommended 
that  no  one  should  mount  him  before  he  was  presented  to 
me.  Soon  after  the  warrior  himself  appeared,  distinguish- 
ed by  his  superior  skill  in  horsemanship,  and  by  a  large  red 
scarf,  which  he  wore  after  the  fashion  of  the  Marshals  of 
France.  He  is  the  handsomest  Indian  warrior  of  my  ac- 
quaintance. He  came  with  a  numerous  retinue.  We  pro- 
ceeded at  a  brisk  trot,  and  were  now  but  two  or  three  miles 
from  the  camp,  when  at  a  distance  we  descried  a  warrior  of 


Narrative  of  Muratori. 


107 


was 
that 
ners 
the 
de- 
ead 
t  me 
ided 
I  to 
ish- 
red 
s  of 
ac- 
ro- 
iles 
rof 


lofty  stature.     A  number  of  voices  shouted  Paul !  Paul ! 
and  indeed   it  was  Paul,   the  great  chief,   who    had  just 
arrived  after  a  long  absence,  as  if  by  special  permission  of 
God,  to  afibrd  iiim  the  satisfaction  of  introducing  me  per- 
sonally to  his  people.     After  mutual  and  very  cordial  de- 
monstrations of  friendship,  the  good  old  chief  insisted  upon 
reluming  to  announce  our  arrival.  In  less  than  half  an  hour 
all  hearts  were  united  and  moved  by  the  same  sentiments. 
The  tribe   had  the   appearance  of  a  flock  crowding  with 
eagerness  around  their  shepherd.     The  mothers  offered  us 
their  little  children,  and  so  moving  was  the  scene  that  we 
could  scarcely  refrain  from  tears.     This  evening  was.  cer- 
tainly one  of  the  happiest  of  our  lives.     We  could  truly 
say  that  we  had  reached  the  peaceful  goal.     All  previous 
dangers,  toils  and  trials,  were  at  an  end  and  forgotten.  The 
hopeful  thought  that  we  would  soon  behold  the  happy  days 
of  the  primitive   Christians  revive  among   these  Indians, 
filled  our  minds,  and  the  main  subject  of  our  conversations 
became  the  question:  "  What  shall  we  do  to  comply  with 
the  requisitions  of  our  signal  vocation?" 

I  engaged  Father  Point,  who  is  skilled  in  drawing  and 
architecture,  to  trace  the  plan  of  the  Missionary  Stations. 
In  my  mind,  and  still  more  in  my  heart,  the  material  was 
essentially  connected  with  the  moral  and  religious  plan. 
Nothing  appeared  to  us  more  beautiful  than  the  Narrative 
of  Muratori.  We  had  made  it  our  Vade  Mecum.  It  is 
chiefly  to  these  subjects  that  we  shall  devote  our  attention 
for  the  future,  bidding  farewell  to  all  fine  perspectives,  ani- 
mals, trees  and  flowers,  or  favoring  them  only  with  an 
occasional  and  hasty  glance. 

From  Fort  Hall  we  ascended  the  Snake  River,  also 
called  Lewis'  Fork,  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  Henry's  Fork. 
This  is  unquestionably  the  most  barren  of  all  the  moun- 


P: 


'I . 


;'    «l 


fli 


I 


%;>■ 

m 


'ill  ' 


I 

.4 


108 


The  ''Father's  Defiled 


tain  deserts.  It  abounds  in  absynth,  cactus,  and  all  such 
plants  and  herbs  as  are  chiefly  found  on  arid  lands.  We 
had  to  resort  to  fishing  for  the  support  of  life,  and  our  beasts 
uf  burden  were  compelled  to  fast  and  pine;  for  scarcely  a 
mouthful  of  grass  could  be  found  during  the  eight  days 
which  it  took  us  to  traverse  this  wilderness.  At  a  distance 
we  beheld  the  colossal  summits  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  three  Tetons  were  about  fifty  miles  to  our  right,  and 
to  the  left  we  had  the  three  mounds  at  a  distance  of  thirty 
miles. 

From  the  mouth  of  Henrv's  Fork  we  steered  our  course 
towards  the  mountains  over  a  sandy  plain  furrowed  by 
deep  ravines,  and  covered  with  blocks  of  granite.  We 
spent  a  day  and  night  without  water.  On  the  following 
day  we  came  to  a  small  brook,  but  so  arid  is  this  porous 
soil,  that  its  waters  are  soon  lost  in  the  sand.  On  the  third 
day  of  this  truly  fatiguing  journey  we  entered  into  a  beau- 
tiful defile,  where  the  verdure  was  both  pleasing  and  abun- 
dant, as  it  is  watered  by  a  copious  rivulet.  We  gave  to 
this  passage  the  name  of"  the  Father's  Defile,"  and  to  the 
rivulet  that  of  St.  Francis  Xavier.  From  the  Father's 
Defile,  to  the  place  of  our  destination,  the  country  is  well 
watered,  for  it  abounds  with  small  lakes  and  rivulets,  and 
is  surrounded  by  mountains,  at  whose  base  are  found  num- 
berless springs.  In  no  part  of  the  world  is  the  water  more 
limpid  or  pure,  for  whatever  may  be  the  depth  of  the  rivers, 
the  bottom  is  seen  as  if  there  were  nothing  to  intercept  the 
view.  The  most  remarkable  spring  which  we  have  seen 
in  the  mountains,  is  called  the  Deer's  lodge.  It  is  found 
on  the  bank  of  the  main  Fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  or  St. 
Mary's  River;  lo  this  Fork  I  have  given  the  name  of  St. 
Ignatius.  This  spring  is  situated  on  the  top  of  a  mound 
thiity  feet  high,  in  the  middle  of  a  marsh.     It  is  accessible 


I 


Ji  remarkable  spring: 


109 

on  one  side  only.     The  water  bubbles   up,   and   escapes 
through  a  number  of  openings  at  ihe  base  of  the  mound 
ihe  circumference  of  which  appears  to  be  about  sity  feet! 
The  waters  at  the  base  are  of  different  temperatures:  hot 
lukewarm  and  cold,    though  but  a  ie^  steps  distant  from 
each  other      Some  are  indeed    so  hot  that  meat  may  be 
bo.Ied  in  them.     We  actually  tried  the  experiment. 
I  remain,  Rev.  Father  Provincial, 
Yours,  &c. 

P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


m 


' 


U 
f 


!• 


t '  I 

I 

i 

! 
V 


M 


m 


LETTER  VII. 


i 


ii<,'! 


a  'fc 


St.  Ignatius'  River,  10th  Sept.  1841. 
Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial : 

I  INFORMED  your  Reverence  that  flowers  are  found  ia 
abundance  near  the  rock  called  the  Chimney.  Whilst  we 
were  there  Father  Point  culled  one  flower  of  every  kind, 
and  made  a  fine  nosegay  in  honor  of  the  Sacred  heart  of 
Jesus,  on  the  day  of  the  Feast.  As  we  proceeded  towards 
the  Black  Hills,  the  flowers  diminished  in  number,  but  now 
and  then  we  found  some  which  we  had  not  seen  any  where. 
I  have  taken  notice  of  many  of  them,  for  the  amusement  of 
amateurs.  Among  such  as  are  double,  the  most  common 
and  those  that  are  chiefly  characterised  by  the  soil  on  which 
they  grow,  are  to  be  found  on  this  side  the  Platte  River. 
The  rose-colored  lupine  flourishes  in  the  plain  contiguous 
to  the  Platte,  as  far  as  the  Chimney.  Beyond  it  grows  a 
medicinal  plant,  bearing  a  yellow  flower  with  five  petals, 
called  the  prairie  epinette  ;  and  still  farther  on,  where  the 
soil  is  extremely  barren,  are  seen  three  kinds  of  the  prickly- 
pear  ;  the  flowers  of  these  are  beautiful,  and  known  among 
Botanists  by  the  name  of  Cactus  Jlmerkana.  They  have 
already  been  naturalized  in  the  flower  gardens  of  Europe. 
The  colors  of  the  handsomest  roses  are  less  pure  and  lively 
than  the  carnation  of  this  beautiful  flower.  The  exterior  of 
the  chalice  is  adorned  with  all  ihe  shades  of  red  and  green. 
The  petals  arc  evasatcd  like  those  of  the  lily.     It  is  belter 


Movnlain  flowers. 


1  11 


adapted  than  the  rose  to  serve  as  an  emblem  of  the  vain 
pleasures  of  tliis  nether  world,  for  the  thorns  that  surround 
it  are   more  numerous,  and  it  almost  touches  the  grountl. 
Among  the  Simples,  the  mostelegant  is  theblue-bell  of  our 
gardens,  which  however,  far  surpasses  it  by  the  beauty  of 
its  form,   and  the  nicety  of  its  shades,  varying  from  the 
white  to  the  deepest  azure.     Adam's  Needle,  found  only  on 
the  most  barren  elevation,  is  the  finest  of  all  pyramidals. 
About  the  middle  of  its  stem,  which  is  generally  about  three 
feet  high,  begins  a   pyramid  of  flowers,  growing  close  to 
each  other,  highly  shaded  with  red,  and  diminishing  in  size 
as  they  approach  the  summit,  whicii  terminates  in  a  point. 
Its  foot  is  protected  by  a  number  of  hard,  oblong,  ribbed, 
and  sharp  leaves,  which  Iiave  given  it  the  name  of  Adam's 
Needle.  The  root  is  commonly  of  the  thickness  of  a  man's 
arm,  its  color  white,  and  its  form   resembling  that  of  the 
carrot.     The  Indians  eat  it  occasionally  and  the  Mexicans 
use  it  to  manufacture  soap.     There  are  many  other  varie- 
ties of  flowers  some  of   them   very  remarkable    and  rare 
even  in  America,  whicli  are  still  without  a  name  even  among 
travellers.     To  one  of  the  principal,  distinguished  by  hav- 
ing its  bronzed  leaves  disposed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  imi- 
tate the  chapter  of  a  Corinihian  column,  we  have  given  the 
name  of  Corinthian.     Another,  a  kind  of  straw  color,  by  the 
form  of   its  stem,   and  its  division   into  twelve  branches, 
brought  to  our  minds  the  famous  dream  of  the  Patriarch  Jo- 
seph, and  we  have  called  it  the  Josephine.     A  third,  the 
handsomest  of  all  the  daisies  (lieines  Marguerites)  that  I 
have  ever  seen,  having  a  yellow  disk,  with  black  and  red 
shades,  and  seven  or  eight  rays,  any  of  which  would  form 
a  fine  flower,  has  been  named  by    us  the  Dominical,   not 
only  because  it  appeared  like  the  Lady  and  Mistress  of  all 
the  flowers  around,  but  also  because  we  discovered  it  on 
Sunday. 


i, 


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i  P , 


■?; 


l'^ 


l:hii, 

m 


<ir'^! 


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f 


''1 11 


il2 


Shrubs  and  Trees. 


Shrubs.  The  shrubs  that  bear  fruit  are  few.  The  most 
common  are  the  currant  and  jfooseberry  of  various  sizes 
and  colors,  the  hawthorn,  the  rasberry,  the  wild  cherry  and 
the  service-berry.  Currants,  while,  red,  black  and  yellow, 
grow  every  where  along  the  mountains.  The  best  are  found 
on  the  plains,  where  they  are  exposed  to  be  ripened  by  the 
sun.  1  have  classed  the  wild  cherry  and  the  service-berry 
among  shrubs,  because  they  are  generally  of  low  growth 
and  do  not  deserve  the  name  of  trees.  The  service-berry 
f  cornier  J  grows  on  a  real  shrub,  and  is  a  delicious  fruit, 
called  by  travellers  tlie  mountain  pear,  though  it  bears  no 
resemblance  to  the  pear,  its  size  being  that  of  a  common 
cherry.  The  mountain  cherry  dilTers  much  from  the  Eu- 
ropean cherry.  The  fruit  hangs  in  clusters  jiround  the 
branches,  and  is  smaller  than  the  wild  cherry,  whilst  its 
tasie  and  color,  and  the  form  of  the  leaves  are  nearly  the 
same  as  those  of  the  latter.  Cherries  and  service-berries 
constitute  a  great  portion  of  the  Indians'  food  whilst  the 
season  lasts,  and  they  are  dried  by  them  to  serve  for  food 
ill  the  winter.  I  may  perhaps  mention  other  fruits,  plants 
and  roots,  that  grow  spontaneously  in  different  parts  of  the 
Far  West,  and  are  used  as  food  by  the  Indians  for  want  of 
better  sustenance. 

Flax  is  very  common  in  the  valleys  between  the  moun- 
tains. What  must  appear  singular  is  that  the  root  of  it 
is  so  fruitful  that  it  will  produce  new  stems  for  a  number 
of  years — we  examined  one  of  them,  and  found  attached 
to  it  about  30  stems,  which  had  sprung  from  it  in  former 
years.     Hemp  is  also  found,  but  in   very  small  quantities. 

Trees.  There  are  but  few  species  of  trees  in  the  regions 
which  we  lately  passed.  Scarcely  any  forests  are  Umnu 
on  the  banks  of  rivers,  for  which  I  have  already  assigned  a 
reason.     On  the  plains  we  find  bushes,  and  now  and  then 


v?t^ 


Birds  and  Iicp tiles. 


n 


a 
ken 


the  willow,  ihe  aldar,  the  wax  tree,  the  cotton  tree,  or  white 
poplar  whose  bark  is  used  for  horse  feed  in  winter,  and  the 
aspen  whose  leaves  are  always  trembling.  Some  Canadians 
have  conceived  a  very  superstitious  idea  of  this  tree.  They 
say  that  of  its  wood  the  Cross  was  made  on  which  our  Sa- 
viour was  nailed,  and  that  since  the  time  of  the  crucifixion, 
its  leaves  have  not  ceased  to  tremble  !  The  only  lofty  trees 
found  on  the  mountains  are  the  pine  and  the  cedar  which 
is  either  white  or  red.  The  latter  is  chiefly  used  for  furni- 
ture, as  it  is  the  most  resistible  wood  of  the  West.  There 
are  several  species  of  the  pine :  the  Norwegian,  the  resi- 
nous, the  white,  and  the  elastic,  so  called  because  the  In- 
dians use  it  to  make  bows. 

So  great  is  the  violence  of  the  winds  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Black  Hills,  that  the  cotton  wood,  which  is  almost  the  only 
tree  that  grows  there,  displays  the  most  fantastic  shapes. 
I  have  seen  some  whose  branches  had  been  so  violently 
twisted  that  they  became  incorporated  with  the  trunk,  and 
after  this,  grew  in  such  strange  forms  and  directions  that  at 
a  distance  it  was  impossible  to  distinguish  what  part  of  the 
tree  was  immediately  connected  with  the  roots. 

Birds.  I  shall  say  but  little  of  the  birds.  They  are  va- 
rious in  form,  color  and  size  ;  from  the  pelican  and  the 
swan  to  the  wren  and  the  humming  bird.  Muratori,  speak- 
ing of  the  last,  compares  him  to  the  nightingale,  and  is  as- 
tonished that  such  shrill  and  loud  sounds  should  proceed 
from  so  small  a  body.  The  celebrated  author  must  have 
been  mistaken,  unless  the  humming  bird  of  Suuth  America 
be  different  from  that  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  latter 
does  not  sing  but  makes  a  humming  noise  with  his  wings 
as  he  flies  from  flower  to  flower. 

Reptiles.  With  respect  to  reptiles,  they  have  been  fre- 
quently described,  and  I  mention  them  only  to  give  thanks 

10* 


V        «l 


m 

0 


i: 


114 


Insects. 


f! 


ii! 


to  God,  by  whose  Providence  we  have  been  delivered  from 
all  such  as  are  venomous,  chiefly  from  the  rattle  snake. 
Neither  men  nor  beasts  belonging  to  our  caravan  have  suf- 
lered  Irom  them,  though  tliey  were  so  numerous  in  places 
that  our  wagoners  killed  as  many  as  twelve  in  one  day. 

Insects  abound  in  these  regions.  The  ant  has  often 
attracted  the  notice  of  naturalists.  Some  have  seemed  to 
doubt  whether  the  wheat  stored  up  by  this  little  insect 
serves  for  winter  provisions  or  for  the  construction  of  its 
dwelling.  No  wheat  grows  in  this  country.  Yet  the  ant 
stores  up  small  pebbles  of  the  size  and  form  of  grains  of 
wheat,  which  inclines  me  to  believe  that  they  use  both  for 
the  construction  of  their  cells.  In  either  case  the  paternal 
Providence  of  God  is  manifest.  They  display  as  much  fore- 
sight in  providing  dwellings  that  are  out  of  the  reach  of  hu- 
midity and  inundations,  as  in  laying  up  food  for  future 
wants.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  here  they  find  food  of 
another  kind,  and  this  might  easily  be  ascertained.  Fleas 
are  not  known  in  the  mountains,  but  there  is  another  sort  of 
vermin  nearly  allied  to  it,  to  which  I  have  alluded  in  one 
of  my  former  letters.  And  what  shall  I  say  of  musquitoes? 
1  have  sufl'ered  so  much  from  them,  that  I  cannot  leave  them 
unnoticed.  In  the  heart  of  the  prairie  they  do  not  trouble 
ihe  traveller,  if  he  keep  aloof  from  the  shade,  and  walk  in 
the  burning  sun.  But  at  nightfall  they  light  on  him,  and 
hang  on  him  till  morning,  like  leeches  sucking  his  blood. 
There  is  no  defence  against  their  darts,  but  to  hide  under  a 
buffalo  skin,  or  wrap  oneself  up  in  some  stuff  which  they 
cannot  pierce,  and  run  the  risk  of  being  smothered. — 
When  gieen  or  rotten  wood  can  be  procured,  they  may  be 
driven  away  by  smoke,  but  in  such  case  the  traveller 
himself  is  smoked,  and  in  spite  of  all  he  can  do,  his  eyes 
are  filled  with  tears.     As  soon  as  the  smoke  ceases,  they 


Musquitocs. 


iir> 


return  to  the  charge  till  oilier  wood  is  proviiled  and  thrt  .n 
on  the  fire,  so  that  the  traveller's  sleep  is  frequenily  inter- 
rupted, which  proves  very  annoying  after  the  I'atigue  of  a 
troublesome  journey.  Another  species  of  insects,  called 
brulots,  are  found  by  myriads  in  the  desert,  and  are  not  less 
troublesome  than  the  mnsquito.  They  are  so  small  that 
they  are  scarcely  perceptible,  and  light  on  any  part  of  the 
body  that  is  uncovered,  penetrating  even  into  the  eyes,  ears 
and  nostrils.  To  guard  against  them,  the  traveller,  even  in 
the  warmest  weather,  wears  gloves,  ties  a  handkerchief 
over  his  forehead,  neck  and  ears,  and  smokes  a  short  pipe 
or  a  cigar  to  drive  them  from  his  eyes  and  nostrils.  The 
fire-fly  is  a  harmless  insect.  When  they  are  seen  in  great 
numbers,  darting  their  phosphoric  light  through  the  dark- 
ness, it  is  a  sure  sign  that  rain  is  at  hand.  Tlie  light  which 
they  emit  is  very  brilliant,  and  appears  as  if  it  proceeded 
from  wandering  meteors.  It  is  a  favorite  amusement  with 
the  Indians  to  catch  these  insects,  and  after  rubbing  the 
phosphoric  matter  over  their  faces,  to  walk  around  the 
camp,  for  the  purpose  of  frightening  children  and  exciting 
mirth. 

As  our  hunters  were  scarcely  ever  disappointed  in  find- 
ing game,  we  have  seldom  had  recourse  to  fishing;  hence 
our  acquaintance  with  the  finny  race  is  rather  limited.-— 
On  some  occasions,  when  provisions  were  becoming  scarce, 
the  line  had  to  supply  the  place  of  the  gun.  The  fish 
which  we  generally  caught  were  the  mullet,  two  kinds  of 
trout,  and  a  species  of  carps.  Once,  whilst  we  lay  en- 
camped on  the  banks  of  Snake  river,  I  caught  more  than  a 
hundred  of  these  carps  in  the  space  of  an  hour.  The  an- 
chovy, the  sturgeon,  and  the  salmon,  abound  in  the  rivers 
of  the  Oregon  Territory.  There  are  six  species  of  salmon. 
They  come  up  the  rivers  towards  the  end  of  April,  and 


ir 


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116 


Quadrtf/teils. 


after  spawnini,',  never  return  ;  but  the  young  ones  go  down 
to  the  sea  in  September,  and  it  is  supposed  that  ihey  rt- 
enler  the  rivers  the  fourth  year  after  they  have  left  them. 

QuAnuri'KDS.  'I'he  Beaver  seems  to  have  chosen  this 
country  for  his  own.  Every  one  knows  how  they  work, 
and  what  use  they  make  of  their  teeth  and  tail.  What  we 
were  told  by  the  trappers  is  probably  unknown  to  many. — 
When  they  are  about  constructing  a  dam,  they  examine  all 
the  trees  on  the  bank,  and  (.hose  the  one  that  is  most  bent 
over  the  water  on  the  side  where  they  want  to  erect  their 
fort.  If  they  find  no  tree  of  this  kind  they  repair  to 
another  place,  or  patiently  wait  till  a  violent  wind  ^ives  the 
requisite  inclination  to  some  of  the  trees.  Some  o(  the 
Indian  tribes  believe  that  the  beavers  are  a  degraded  race  of 
imman  beings,  whose  vices  and  crimes  have  induced  the 
Great  Spirit  to  punish  them  by  changing  them  into  their 
present  form  ;  and  they  think,  after  the  lapse  of  a  number 
of  years,  their  punishment  will  cease,  and  they  will  be 
restored  to  their  original  shape.  The/  even  believe  that 
these  animals  use  a  kind  of  language  to  communicate  their 
thoughts  to  each  other,  to  consult,  deliberate,  pass  sentence 
on  delinquents,  &c.  The  Trappers  assured  us  that  such 
beavers  as  are  unwilling  to  work,  are  unanimously  pro- 
scribed, and  exiled  from  the  Republic,  and  that  they  are 
obliged  to  seek  some  abandoned  hole,  at  a  distance  from 
the  rest,  where  they  spend  the  winter  in  a  state  of  starva- 
tion. These  are  esily  caught,  but  their  skin  is  far  inferior 
to  that  of  the  more  industrious  neighbors,  whose  foresight 
and  perseverance  have  procured  them  abundant  provi- 
sions, and  a  shelter  against  the  severity  of  the  winter  sea- 
son. The  flesh  of  the  beaver  is  fat  and  savory.  The  feet 
arc  deemed  the  most  dainty  parts.  The  tail  afTords  a  sub- 
stitute for  butter.     The  skin  is  sold  for  nine  or  ten  dollars' 


Quadrupals. 


117 


»rs' 


wort!)  of  provisions  or  merchandise,  tlic  value  of  wliicli 
does  not  amount  to  a  single  silver  dollar.  For  a  jjill  of 
whiskey,  which  has  not  cost  the  trader  morn  than  three  or 
four  cents,  is  sometimes  sold  for  llirce  or  four  dollars, 
though  the  chief  virtue  which  it  possesses  is  to  kill  the 
hody  and  soul  of  the  buyer.  Wo  need  not  wonder  then 
when  wc  sen  that  wholesale  dealers  in  this  poisonous  ar- 
ticle realize  larse  fortunes  in  a  very  short  lime,  and  llint  the 
retailers,  of  whom  some  received  as  much  as  eiiihl  hundred 
dollarp  per  annum,  often  present  a  most  miserable  appear- 
ance before  the  year  expires.  The  Honorable  Hudson 
Hav  Companv  docs  not  belonj;  to  this  class  of  trai'crs.  \\\ 
ihem  the  sale  of  all  sorts  of  iiquors  is  strictly  forbidden. 

Tiic  Otter  is  an  inhabitant  of  the  mountain  rivers.  His 
color  is  dark  brown  or  black.  Like  the  beaver,  lie  is  in- 
cessantly pursued  by  the  hunters,  and  the  number  of  both 
these  animals  is  yearly  diminished.  Among  other  amphi- 
bious animals  we  tind  two  species  of  the  frog.  One  does 
not  difl'er  from  the  European,  but  the  other  oders  scarcely 
any  resemblance.  It  has  a  tail  and  hotns  and  is  only  found 
on  the  most  arid  soil.  13v  some  of  our  trav»jllers  it  was 
called  the  Salamander. 

Opossums  are  common  here.  'I'luy  arc  generally  found 
near  marshes  and  ponds  that  abound  in  small  claw  fish,  of 
which  they  are  extremely  fond.  To  catch  them  he  places 
himself  on  the  bank,  and  lets  his  long  hairless  tail  hang 
down  in  the  water.  The  crawfish  are  allured  by  the  bait, 
and  as  soon  as  they  put  their  claws  to  it,  the  opossum 
throws  them  up,  seizes  thorn  sideways  between  his  teeth, 
and  carries  them  to  some  distance  from  the  water,  where 
he  greedily  but  cautiously  devours  his  prey. 

The  Badger  inhabits  the  whole  extent  of  the  desert;  he 
is  seldom  seen,  as  he  retires   to  his  hole  at  the  least  ap- 


11 


,'ll- 


1 


U. 


! 


118 


tQmnutl  i}istuict. 


'.•f  i 


II      ! 


proacli  of  (Jangcr.  Some  naliiralijils  refpr  this  animal  to 
ilic  iL'pnuine  Ursus.  lis  size  is  thai  of  the  l)oinioM?e  i  its 
color  silver  grey  ;  its  paws  are  short,  and  its  strciij^th  pro- 
digious. A  Canadian  having  seized  one  as  he  entered  the 
hole,  he  required  the  assistance  of  another  rnan  to  pull  him 
out. 

The  Prairie  Dog,  in  shape,  color  and  agility,  more  re- 
semblos  the  squirrel  than  the  animal  from  which  it  has 
taken  its  name.     They  live  together  in  separate  lodges,  to 

irth  which   they 


th 


\\  th 


The 


umber  of  several  tiiousanc 
throw  up  to  constiuct  their  lodges,  forms  a  kind  of  slope 
which  prevents  the  rain  from  entering  the  holes.  At  the 
approach  of  man,  this  little  animal  runs  into  its  loilge,  ut- 
tering a  piercing  cry,  which  puts  the  whole  tribe  on  their 
guard,  After  some  minutes,  the  b<ddesl  show  a  part  of 
their  heads,  as  if  to  spy  the  enemy,  and  this  is  the  moment 
which  the  hunter  chooses  to  kill  them.  The  Indians  in- 
formed us  that  they  sometimes  issue  in  a  body,  apparently 
to  hold  a  council,  and  that  wisdom  presides  over  their  de- 
liberations. They  admit  to  their  dwellings  the  bird  of 
Minerva,  the  striped  squirrel,  and  the  rattlesnake, 
and  it  is  impossible  to  determine  what  is  the  cause  of  this 
wonderful  sympathy.  It  is  said  too  that  they  live  only  on 
the  dew  of  the  grass  root,  a  remark  founded  upon  the  posi- 
tion of  their  village,  which  is  always  found  where  the 
ground  is  waterless  and  barren. 

The  Polecat  or  Memphitis  Americana,  is  a  beautifully 
speckled  animal.  When  pursued,  it  raises  its  tail,  and 
discharges  a  large  quantity  of  fluid,  which  nature  has  in- 
tended for  its  defence.  It  repeats  these  discharges  in  pro- 
portion as  the  pursuer  comes  near  it.  So  strong  is  the 
foetid  odor  of  this  liquid  that  neither  man  nor  beast  can  bear 
it.     It  happened  once  that  Rev.  Father  Van  Quickenborne 


Ji  aad  predicament. 


IIU 


(..,!« 


iim 


saw  two  of  theso  cats.  Ho  took  tlicm  for  young  cubs, 
and  pleased  with  the  discovery,  he  alighted  from  his  horse, 
and  vvisiiud  to  catch  them.  lie  appioaohed  them  cautiously, 
and  was  just  ready  to  put  his  large  hat  over  one  of  them, 
when  all  at  once  a  discharge  was  made  that  covered  him  all 
over.  It  was  impossible  to  go  near  him — all  around  him 
was  infected.  His  clothes  could  no  longer  be  used,  and 
the  pour  man,  though  rather  late,  resolved  never  again  to 
attempt  to  catch  young  bears! 

The  Cabri  (Antelope)  resembles  the  deer  in  form  and 
size,  the  antlers  arc  smaller  and  have  but  two  branches; 
the  color  of  the  animal  resembles  that  of  the  stag;  the  eyes 
are  large  and  piercing  ;  and  its  gait  in  the  wilderness  is  a 
kind  of  elegant  gallop.  Sometimes  the  Antelope  stops 
short  and  rears  his  head  to  observe  his  pursuer;  this  is  the 
most  favorable  moment  to  kill  him.  When  started  or  shot 
-jt  and  missed,  he  darts  forward  with  incredible  swiftness, 
but  curiosity  induces  him  to  halt  and  look  back.  The  hun- 
ter tries  to  amuse  his  curiosity,  by  holding  up  and  waving 
some  bright  colored  object:  the  animal  approaches,  and  cu- 
riosity becomes  tlie  cause  of  his  death.  The  flesh  is 
wholesome,  and  easily  digested,  but  it  is  used  only  where 
deer  and  buffalo  meat  are  wanting.  The  Antelope  hunt  is 
a  favorite  sport  with  the  Indians.  They  choose  a  spot  of 
ground  from  fifty  to  eighty  feet  square,  and  enclose  it  with 
posts  and  boughs,  leaving  a  small  opening  or  entrance,  two 
or  three  feet  wide.  From  this  entrance  they  construct  two 
wings  or  hedges,  which  they  extend  for  several  miles. — 
After  this  they  form  a  large  semicircle,  and  drive  the  Ante- 
lopes before  them  till  they  enter  between  the  hedges,  where 
they  press  so  hard  upon  ihum  that  they  force  them  into  the 
square  enclosure,  in  which  they  kill  them  with  clubs.  I 
have  been  told  that  the  number  of  Antelopes  thus  driven 


\\ 


H 


ti  :-;■ . 


ill 


urn  I 


1 1 


I 


120 


The  Buffalo  Chase. 


into  the  enclosure,  often  amounts  to  more  than  two  hundred. 
The  meat  of  the  bufl'alo  cow  is  the  most  wholesome  and 
the  most  common  in  the  west.  It  may  be  called  the  daily 
bread  of  the  traveller,  for  he  never  loses  his  relish  for  it. — 
It  is  more  easily  procured  than  any  other,  and  it  is  good 
throughout.  Tiiough  some  prefer  the  tongue,  others  the 
hump,  or  some  other  favorite  piece,  all  the  parts  are  excel, 
lent  food.  'I'o  preserve  the  meat  it  is  cut  in  slices,  tiiin 
enough  to  be  dried  in  the  sun  ;  sometimes  a  kind  of  hash  is 
made  of  it,  and  this  is  mixed  with  the  marrow  taken  from 
the  largest  bones.  This  kind  of  mixture  is  called  Bull  or 
Cheese,  and  is  generally  served  up  and  eaten  raw,  but 
when  boiled  or  baked  it  is  of  more  easy  digestion,  and  has 
a  more  savory  taste  to  a  civilized  palate.  The  form  and 
size  of  the  buffalo  are  sulncienily  known.  It  is  a  giega- 
rious  animal,  and  is  seldom  seen  alone.  Several  hundreds 
herd  together,  the  males  on  one  side,  the  females  on  the 
other,  except  at  a  certain  season  of  the  year.  In  the  month 
of  June  we  saw  an  immense  herd  of  them  on  the  Platte. — 
The  chase  of  this  animal  is  very  interesting.  The  hunters 
are  all  mounted  ;  at  the  signal  given,  they  fall  upon  the 
herd,  which  is  soon  dispersed  ;  each  one  choses  his  own 
animal,  for  he  who  slays  the  first  is  looked  upon  as  the 
king  of  the  chase — his  aim  must  be  sure  and  mortal,  for  the 
animal,  when  wounded,  becomes  furious,  turns  upon  his 
hunter  and  pursues  him  in  his  turn.  We  once  witnessed  a 
scene  of  this  kind.  A  young  American  had  the  imprudence 
to  swim  over  a  river  and  pursue  a  wounded  buffalo  with  no 
other  weapon  but  his  knife.  The  animal  turned  back  upon 
him,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  young  Englishman,  whom 
I  have  already  mentioned,  his  imprudence  would  have  cost 
him  bis  life.  The  greatest  feat  of  a  hunter  is  to  drive  the 
wounded  animal  to  any  place  he  thinks  proper.     We  had  a 


The  Buffalo  Chase, 


121 


hunter  named  John  Gray,  reputed  one  of  the  best  marks- 
men of  the  mountains ;  he  had  frequently  given  proofs  of 
extraordinary  courage  and  dexterity,  especially  when  on 
one  occasion  he  dared  to  attack  five  bears  at  once.  Wishing 
to  give  us  another  sample  of  his  valor,  he  drove  an  enor- 
mous buffalo  he  had  wounded,  into  the  midst  of  the  caravan. 
The  animal  had  stood  about  fifty  shots,  and  been  pierced  by 
more  than  twenty  balls  ;  three  times  he  had  fallen,  but  fury 
increasing  his  strength,  he  had  risen,  after  each  fall,  and 
with  his  horns  threatened  all  who  dared  to  approach  him. 
At  last  the  hunter  took  a  decisive  aim,  and  the  bufTalo  fell  to 
rise  no  more. 

The  small  chase  is  carried  on  without  horses.  An  ex- 
perienced hunter,  though  on  foot,  may  attack  a  whole  herd 
of  bulTalos  ;  but  he  must  be  skilful  and  cautious.  He  must 
approach  them  against  the  wind,  for  fear  of  starling  the 
game,  for  so  acute  is  the  scent  of  the  buffalo  that  he  smells 
his  enemy  at  a  very  considerable  distance.  Next,  he 
must  approach  them  as  much  as  possible  without  being 
seen  or  suspected.  If  he  cannot  avoid  being  seen,  he 
draws  a  skin  over  his  head,  or  a  kind  of  hood,  surmounted 
by  a  pair  of  horns,  and  thus  deceives  the  herd.  When 
within  gun  shot,  he  must  hide  himself  behind  a  bank  or 
any  other  object.  There  he  waits  till  he  can  take  sure 
aim.  The  report  of  the  gun,  and  the  noise  made  by  the 
fall  of  the  wounded  buffalo,  astound,  but  do  not  drive 
away  the  rest.  In  the  meantime,  the  hunter  re-loads  his 
gun,  and  shoots  again,  repealing  the  manoeuvre,  till  five  or 
six,  and  sometime  more  bufTalos  have  fallen,  before  he 
finds  it  necessary  to  abandon  his  place  of  concealment. — 
The  Indians  say  that  the  bufTalos  live  together  as  the 
bees,  under  the  direction  of  a  queen,  and  that  wlien  the 
queen  is  wounded,  all  the  others  surround  and  deplore  her. 

11 


,1 

it' 


1/ 

n. 


,1 

s 

■■». 


I '  ')i 


1  ■   ■  '    !■: 


V  'I 


m 


m 


m 


I   i 


H' 


\\h 


ni< 


U 


122 


7 he   Wolves. 


If  this  were  llie  case,  the  hunter  who  had  the  good  fortune 
to  kill  the  queen,  would  have  fine  sport  in  despatching  the 
rest.  After  death,  the  animal  is  dressed,  that  is,  lie  is  strip- 
ped of  his  robe,  quartered  and  divided  ;  the  best  pieces  are 
chosen  and  carried  off  by  the  hunter,  who,  when  the 
chase  has  been  successful,  is  sometimes  satisfied  with  the 
tongue  alone.  The  rest  is  left  for  the  wolves.  These  vo- 
racious prowlers  soon  come  to  the  banquet,  except  when 
the  scene  of  slaughter  is  near  the  camp.  In  such  cases 
they  remain  at  bay  till  night,  when  all  is  still.  Then 
they  come  to  the  charge,  and  set  up  such  howling  that  they 
frighten  the  inexperienced  traveller.  But  their  yells  and 
howlings,  however  frightful,  have  little  or  no  effect  upon 
those  whose  ears  have  become  accustomed  to  such  music. 
These  sleep  with  as  little  concern  as  if  there  were  not  a 
wolf  in  the  country. 

Of  wolves  we  have  seen  four  varieties,  the  grey,  the 
white,  the  black,  and  the  bluish.  The  grey  seems  to  be 
the  most  common,  as  they  are  the  most  frequently  seen. — 
The  black  wolves  are  large  and  ferocious  animals.  They 
sometimes  mingle  with  a  herd  of  buffalos,  and  at  first  ap- 
pear quite  harmless,  but  when  they  find  a  young  calf 
strayed  from  its  dam,  or  an  old  cow  on  the  brink  of  a  pre- 
cipice, they  are  sure  to  attack  and  kill  the  former,  and  to 
harass  the  latter  till  they  succeed  in  pushing  it  down  the 
precipice.  The  wolves  are  very  numerous  in  these  re- 
gions— the  plains  are  full  of  holes,  which  are  generally 
deep,  and  into  which  they  retire  when  hunger  does  not 
compel  them  to  prowl  about,  or  when  they  are  pursued  by 
the  huntsman.  There  is  a  small  sized  wolf,  called  the 
medicine  wolf,  regarded  by  the  Indians,  as  a  sort  of  Mani- 
tou.  They  watch  its  yelpings  during  the  night,  and 
the    superstitious   conjurer^s   pretend  to    understand    and 


it«. 


Bear  Chase. 


123 


interpret  them.  According  to  the  loudness,  frequenf;y, 
and  other  modifications  of  these  yelpings,  they  interpret 
that  either  friends  or  foes  approach  the  camp,  &;c.,  and  if 
it  happens  that  on  some  other  occasion  thev  conjecture 
right,  the  prediction  is  never  forgotten,  and  the  conjurers 
take  care  to  mention  it  on  every  emergency. 

There  are  also  four  kinds  of  hears,  disiiniruished  hy  the 
colors  :  white,  black,   brown  and    grey.     'IMie    white  and 
grey  bears  are  what  the  lion  is   in  A^^ia,  the  kings  of  the 
mountains:  they  are  scarcely   inferior  to  the  lion  in  form 
and  courage.     I  have  sometimes  joined  in  tin?  ch-ise  of  this 
animal,  but  I  was  in   good  company — safe  fro^n  danger. — 
Four  Indian   hunters  ran  around  the  ht-ar  and  stunned  him 
with  their  cries — they  soon  despatched  him.     In  less  than 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  after  this,  another  fell  beneath  their 
blows.     This  chase  is  perhaps  the  most  dangerous  ;  for  the 
bear,  when  wounded,  becomes  furious,  and  unless  he  be 
disabled,  as  was  the  casein  the  two  instances  mentioned,  he 
attacks  and  not  unfrequeutly  kills  his  pursuers.     Messrs. 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  their  expedition  to  the  sources  of  the 
Missouri,  adduce  a  striking  proof  of  the  physical  strength 
of  this  animal,  which  shows  that  he  is  a  most  formidable 
enemy.     One  evening,  the  men  who  were  in  the  hindmost 
canoe,  discovered  a  bear,  crouched  in  the  prairie,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  about  three  hundred  yards  from  the  river.     Six  of 
them,  all  skilful  hunters,  left  the  canoe,  and  advanced  to 
attack    him.     Protected    by  a  little  eminence,    they   ap- 
proached without  being  perceived,  till  they  were  but  forty 
steps  from  the  animal.     Four  of  the  men  discharged  their 
guns,  and  each  one  lodged  a  ball  in  his  body — two  of  the 
balln  had  pierced  the  lungs.     The  bear,  frantic  with  rage, 
starts  up  and  rushes  upon  his  enemies,  with  wide  extended 
jaws.     As  he  approached,  the  two  hunters  who  had  kept 


''fll 


jK'l 


Y'-'A 


If  ■ 

r  1^ 


m 


11 


«.■; 


m 

m 
III 


•  li 


I 


'  .; 


i: 


'I' ■ 

4 


' 


I'l 


;: 


ill 


i 


m 


I 


124 


i^car    Chase. 


their  fire,  inflicted  two  wounds  on  him  ;  one  of  the  balls 
broke  his  shoulder,  which  for  a  few  moments  retarded  his 
piogress,  but  before  they  could  re-load  their  guns,  he  was 
so  close  upon  them  that  they  had  to  run  with  the  greatest 
speed  to  the  river.  Here  he  was  at  the  point  of  seizing 
them — two  of  the  men  threw  themselves  into  the  canoe,  the 
four  others  scattered  and  hid  themselves  among  the  wil- 
lows, where  they  loaded  and  fired  with  the  greatest  ex- 
pedition. They  wounded  him  several  times,  which  only 
served  to  increase  his  fury  ;  at  last  he  pursued  two  of  them 
so  closely,  that  they  were  compelled  to  provide  for  their 
safety  by  leaping  into  the  river  from  a  perpendicular  bank 
nearly  twenty  feet  high.  The  bear  followed  them,  and 
was  but  a  few  feet  from  them,  when  one  of  the  hunters 
who  had  come  from  his  lurking  place,  sent  a  ball  through 
his  head  and  killed  him.  They  dragged  him  to  the  shore, 
and  there  ascertained  that  not  less  than  eight  balls  passed 
through  his  body. 
I  remain,  Rev.  and  dear  Father  Provincial, 

Yours,  &;c. 
P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


y 


•11 


M&- 


Ji 


LETTER  Vlll. 


Hell  Gate,  21st  Sept.  1841. 
Rev.  and  Dear  Father  Provincial  : 

It  is  on  a  journey  through  the  desert  that  we  see  how  at- 
tentive Providence  is  to  the  wants  of  man.  I  repeat  with 
pleasure  this  remark  of  my  young  Protestant  friend,  be- 
cause the  truth  of  it  appears  through  the  narrative  which  I 
have  commenced,  and  will  appear  still  more  evidently  in 
what  is  to  follow.  Were  I  to  speak  of  rivers,  the  account 
would  be  long  and  tedious,  for  in  five  days  we  crossed  as 
many  as  eighteen,  and  crossed  one  of  them  five  times  in  the 
space  of  a  few  hours.  I  shall  only  mention  the  most  dan- 
gerous among  them.  The  first,  which  we  found  it  very  dif- 
ficult to  cross,  was  the  South  Fork  of  the  Platte.  But  as 
we  had  been  long  apprised  of  the  difficulty,  we  took  our 
precautions  before  hand,  and  some  of  our  Canadians  had 
explored  it  with  so  much  care,  that  we  forded  it,  not  with- 
out great  difficulty,  but  without  any  serious  accident.  The 
greatest  distress  was  felt  by  the  dogs  of  the  caravan.  Left 
on  the  bank,  when  all  had  crossed,  nothing  but  fidelity  to- 
wards their  masters  could  have  induced  them  to  swim  over 
a  river  but  little  less  than  a  mile  wide,  and  having  so  rapid 
a  current  that  it  would  have  carried  away  wagons  and 
carts,  had  they  not  been  supported  on  all  sides,  while  the 
mules  exerted  all  their  strength  to  pull  them  onward.^  The 
poor  dogs  did  not  attempt  to  cross  till  they  found  that  there 
was  no  medium  left  between  encountering  the  danger  and 

11» 


I,  ;  i 


;.    i 


y     i 

4 


ti 


'I 


1  PI 


I 

f 

\l 

t 

!".i 

- 

li'il 


K- 


^.l;.:a 


'  i 


120 


I  ■ 

'I  ' 


m  \ 


»»' 


I*  "f 

\i  "■ 


M/'M'' 


lit 


S  i 


i!  ;(' 


|!i 


?th 


Perilous  passage  of  a  river. 


losing  tlieir  masters.  The  passage  over  these  rivers  is 
generally  effected  by  means  of  a  bull  boat,  the  name  given 
to  a  kind  of  boat,  constructed  on  the  spot  with  bufTalo  hides. 
They  are  indispensable  when  the  current  is  impetuous, 
and  ho  ford  can  be  found.  Thanks  to  our  Canadians,  we 
wanted  them  neither  on  this  nor  any  other  occasion. 

The  second  difllcult  passage  was  over  the  North  Fork, 
which  is  less  wide,  but  deeper  and  more  rapid  than  the 
Southern.  We  had  crossed  the  latter  in  carts.  Having 
mustered  a  little  more  courage,  we  determined  to  cross  the 
North  Fork  on  horseback.  We  were  induced  to  do  so,  on 
seeing  our  hunter  drive  before  him  a  horse  on  which  his 
wife  was  mounted,  whilst  at  the  same  time  he  was  pulling 
a  colt  that  carried  a  little  girl  but  one  year  old.  To  hold 
back  under  such  circumstances  would  have  been  a  disgrace 
for  Indian  Missionaries.  We  therefore  resolved  to  go  for- 
ward. It  is  said  that  we  were  observed  to  grow  pale,  and 
I  am  inclined  to  believe  we  did ;  yet,  after  our  horses  had 
for  some  time  batded  against  the  current,  we  reached  the 
opposite  shore  in  safety,  though  our  clothes  were  dripping 
wet.  Here  we  witnessed  a  scene,  which,  had  it  been  less 
serious,  might  have  excited  laughter.  The  largest  wagon 
was  carried  off  by  the  force  of  the  current,  in  spite  of  all 
the  eflbrts,  shouts  and  cries  of  the  men,  who  did  all  they 
could  to  keep  themselves  from  being  drowned.  Another 
wagon  was  literally  turned  over.  One  of  the  mules 
showed  only  his  four  feet  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  and 
the  others  went  adrift  entangled  in  the  gears.  On  one  side 
appeared  the  American  captain,  with  extended  arms,  cry- 
ing for  help.  On  the  other,  a  young  German  traveller 
was  seen  diving  with  his  beast,  and  soon  after  both  appear- 
ing above  water  at  a  distance  from  each  other.  Here  a 
borse  reached  the  shore  withont  a  rider ;  further  on,  two 


w 


2 
5 


■  i 
■■•■ti 


:  C*i 


I  I' 


r 


1  f 

1     ;  '■ 

'  ;<. 

^      , 

t  1 

i 

Narrow  escape  from  death. 


127 


riders  appeared  on  the  same  horse ;  finally,  the  good 
brother  Joseph  dancing  up  and  down  with  his  horse,  and 
Father  Mengarrini  clinging  to  the  neck  of  his,  and 
looking  as  if  he  formed  an  indivisible  part  of  the  animal. 
After  all  our  difTiculties,  we  found  that  only  one  of  the 
mules  was  drowned.  As  the  mule  belonged  to  a  man  who 
had  been  the  foremost  in  endeavoring  to  save  both  men  and 
horses,  the  members  of  the  caravan  agreed  to  make  him  a 
present  of  a  horse,  as  a  reward  for  his  services.  We  of- 
fered thanks  to  God  for  our  escape  from  danger.  I  men- 
tioned before  that  great  dangers  awaited  us  on  Snake  river. 
This  stream  being  much  less  deep  and  wide  than  the  other 
two,  and  having  such  limpid  waters  that  the  bottom  can 
every  where  be  seen,  could  only  be  dangerous  to  incautious 
persons.  It  sufficed  to  keep  our  eyes  open,  for  any  obsta- 
cle could  easily  be  distinguished  and  avoided.  But  whether 
it  were  owing  to  want  of  thought  or  attention,  or  to  the 
stubborn  disposition  of  the  team.  Brother  Charles  Huet 
found  himself  all  at  once  on  the  border  of  a  deep  precipice, 
too  far  advanced  to  return.  Down  went  mules,  driver  and 
vehicle,  and  so  deep  was  the  place,  that  there  scarcely  ap- 
peared any  chance  to  save  them.  Our  hunter,  at  the 
risk  of  his  life,  threw  himself  into  the  river,  to  dive  after 
the  poor  brother,  whom  he  had  to  pull  out  of  the  carriage. 
All  the  Flat  Heads  who  were  with  us,  tried  to  save  the 
vehicle,  the  mules  and  the  baggage.  The  baggage,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  articles,  was  saved ;  the  carriage 
was  raised  by  the  united  efforts  of  all  the  Indians,  and  set 
afloat;  but  after  this  operation  it  was  held  by  but  one 
of  them,  he  found  that  his  strength  was  inadequate  to  the 
task,  and  crying  that  he  was  being  drowned,  let  go  his 
hold.  The  hunter  plunged  in  after  him,  and  was  himself 
at  the  point  of  losing  his   life,  on  account  of  the  efforts 


1\i 


i".  it 


ii  f' 


' 


r 


^i!| 


!■ 


^H 


I  ( 


128 


Loss  of  OUT  Milks. 


which  tlie  Indian  made  to  save  his  own.  Finally,  after 
prodigies  of  valor,  exhibiied  hy  all  the  Flat  Heads,  men, 
women  and  children,  who  all  strove  to  give  us  a  proof 
of  their  attachment,  we  lost  what  wc  considered  the 
most  safe,  the  team  of  the  carriage.  The  gears  had  been 
cut  to  enable  the  mules  to  reach  the  shore,  but  it  is  said 
that  these  animals  always  perish  when  once  they  have 
had  their  cars  under  water.  Tiius  we  lost  our  three  finest 
mules.  This  loss  was  to  ns  very  considerable,  and  would 
liave  been  irreparable,  had  it  not  been  for  the  kindness  of 
Captain  Ermatinger.  Whilst  the  people  of  the  caravan 
were  drying  our  baggage,  I  returned  to  the  Fort,  where  the 
generous  Captain  repaired  our  loss  for  a  sum  truly  incon- 
siderable, when  compared  with  what  must  be  paid  on  such 
occasions  to  those  who  wisli  to  avail  themselves  of  the  mis- 
fortunes of  others.  We  had  escaped  the  danger,  and  were 
besides  taught  a  very  useful  lesson,  for  it  was  remarked 
that  it  was  the  first  day  since  we  began  our  journey,  on 
which,  by  reason  of  the  bustle  occasioned  by  our  departure 
from  the  Fort,  we  had  omitted  to  say  the  prayers  of  the 
itinerary. 

We  had  dangers  of  another  description  to  encounter,  from 
which  we  were  also  delivered  by  the  aid  of  God's  grace. 
Once  as  we  travelled  along  the  banks  of  the  Platte,  several 
members  of  the  caravan  separated  from  the  main  body,  con- 
trary to  the  express  orders  of  the  Captain,  who,  together 
with  Father  Point  and  myself,  had  started  a  little  ahead  to 
look  out  for  a  place  of  encampment.  We  succeeded  in 
finding  a  proper  site,  and  we  had  already  unsaddled  our 
horses,  when  all  at  once  we  heard  the  alarm  cry :  the  In- 
dians  !  the  Indians.'  And  in  fact,  a  body  of  Indians,  ap- 
pearing much  larger  than  it  really  was,  was  seen  in  the 
distance,  first  assembling  together,  and  then  coming  full 


z 


2 


I 


i      I 


i!l^ 


f'' 


Id  '.   ■ 

1  ■'  .    ^       I 


«^ 


Expected  (Ulack. 


199 


gallop  towards  our  camp.  In  the  mean  time  a  young  Ame- 
riuaii,  unhorsed  and  unarmed,  makes  his  appearance,  com- 
plaining of  the  loss  he  had  sustained,  and  indignant  at  the 
blows  he  had  received.  He  seizes  the  loaded  rillo  of  one 
of  his  friends,  and  rushes  forward  to  take  signal  vengeance 
on  the  od'ondcr.  The  whole  camp  is  roused ;  the  Ameri- 
can youth  is  determined  to  fight ;  the  Colonel  orders  the 
wagons  to  be  drawn  up  in  double  file,  and  places  between 
them  whatever  may  be  exposed  to  plunder.  All  prepara- 
tions arc  made  for  a  regular  defence.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  Indian  squadron,  much  increased,  advances  and  pre- 
sents a  formidable  front.  They  manosuvre  as  if  they  intend 
to  hem  in  our  phalanx,  but  at  sight  of  our  firm  position,  and 
of  the  assurance  of  the  Captain,  who  advanced  towards 
them,  they  checked  their  march,  finally  halted,  and  came 
to  a  parley,  of  which  the  result  was  that  they  should  return 
to  the  American  whatever  they  had  taken  from  him,  but 
that  the  blows  which  he  had  received  should  not  be  return- 
ed. After  this,  both  parties  united  in  smoking  the  calmut. 
This  b.iiid  consisted  of  80  Sheyenne  warriors,  arraed  for 
battle.  The  Sheyennes  are  looked  upon  as  the  bravest 
Indians  in  the  prairie.  They  followed  our  camp  for  two 
or  three  days.  As  the  chiefs  were  admitted  to  our  meals, 
both  parties  separated  with  mutual  satisfaction. 

On  another  occasion  we  were  in  company  with  the  van- 
guard of  the  Flat  Heads,  and  had  penetrated  into  an  impas- 
sible defile  between  the  mountains,  so  that  after  having  tra- 
velled the  whole  day,  we  were  forced  to  retrace  our  steps. 
At  night  the  rumor  was  spread  that  a  party  of  Banac  In- 
dians lay  encamped  in  the  neighborhood.  The  Banacs  had 
this  very  year  killed  several  white  men  ;  but  it  soon  appear- 
ed that  they  were  more  frightened  than  ourselves,  for  before 
day  break  they  had  removed  from  the  place. 


;  I 


*  \ 


t 


'    :tij 


:il 


130 


Defeat  of  our  fellow  Travellers. 


Without  being  aware  of  it,  we  had  escaped  a  mucli  greater 
danger  on  the  banks  of  Green  River.  We  did  not  know 
the  particulars  of  this  danger  till  after  we  had  arrived  at 
Fort  Hall.  There  we  heard  that  almost  immediately  after 
our  separation  from  the  travellers  who  were  on  their  way  to 
California,  and  with  whom  we  had  till  then  lived  as  bro- 
thers, they  divided  themselves  into  two  bands,  and  each 
band  again  subdivided  into  two  parties,  one  to  attend  to  the 
chase,  the  other  to  guard  the  horses.  The  hunter's  camp 
was  guarded  only  by  five  or  six  men  and  some  women,  who 
had  also  to  keep  watch  over  the  horses  and  baggage  of  the 
others.  A  booty  so  rich  and  so  much  exposed  could  not 
but  tempt  the  Indians  who  roamed  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
waited,  as  is  their  custom,  till  a  seasonable  opportunity 
should  offer  to  commence  the  attack.  When  least  expected, 
they  fell  first  upon  the  horses,  and  then  upon  the  tents,  and 
though  the  guardians  made  a  courageous  defence,  and  sold 
their  lives  dearly,  yet  they  burned  and  pillaged  the  camp, 
taking  away  whatever  might  be  serviceable  to  them  ;  thus 
giving  a  terrible  lesson  to  such  as  expose  themselves  to  lose 
all,  by  not  remaining  united  to  withstand  the  common  ene- 
my.* 

But  a  few  days  after  we  had  received  this  sad  intelligence 
we  ourselves  were  much  alarmed.  We  apprehended  lest 
we  should  have  to  defend  our  lives  against  a  large  body  of 
Black  Feet  Indians,  whose  warriors  continually  infest  the 
country  through  which  we  were  then  travelling.  It  was 
reported  that  they  were  behind  the  mountain,   and  soon 


*  The  massacre  or"  these  travellers  gave  rise  to  several  vague 
reports.  As  we  had  started  together  it  was  supposed  by  many 
that  we  had  not  yet  separated  when  this  unfortunate  accident 
took  place.  Hence  it  was  circulated  in  the  United  States,  and 
even  in  some  parts  of  Europe,  that  the  Catholic  Missionaries  had 
all  been  killed  by  the  Indians. 


False  alarm. 


131 


after  that  they  were  in  sight.  But  our  brave  Indians,  glow- 
ing with  the  desire  to  introduce  us  to  their  tribe,  were  un> 
daunted,  and  would  have  attacked  them,  had  they  been  a 
hundred  times  more  numerous.  Pilchimo,  brandishing  his 
musket  in  the  air,  started  ofT  with  the  greatest  rapidity,  and 
was  followed  by  three  or  four  others.  They  crossed  the 
mountain  and  disappeared,  and  the  whole  camp  made  ready 
to  repel  the  assailants.  The  horses  were  hitched  and  the 
men  under  arms,  when  we  saw  our  brave  Indians  return 
over  the  mountain,  followed  by  a  dozen  others.  The  latter 
were  Banacs,  who  had  united  rather  with  a  mind  to  fly  than 
to  attack  us.  Among  them  was  a  chief,  who  showed  the 
most  favorable  dispositions.  I  had  a  long  conference  with 
him  on  the  subject  of  religion,  and  he  promised  that  he 
would  use  all  his  endeavors  to  engage  his  men  to  adopt  re- 
ligious sentiments.  Both  he  and  his  retinue  left  us  the  day 
after  the  arrival  of  the  Flat  Heads,  who  came  to  wish  us 
joy  for  the  happy  issue  of  our  long  journey.  We  here  re- 
marked how  the  power  of  reason  acts  upon  the  heart  of  the 
savage.  The  Banac  chief  was  brollier  to  an  Indian  of  the 
tribe  who  had  been  killed  by  one  of  the  Fiat  Head  chiefs 
present  on  this  occasion.  They  saluted  each  other  in  our 
presence  and  separated  as  truly  Christian  warriors  would 
have  done,  who  show  enmity  to  each  other  only  on  the  field 
of  battle.  Yet  as  the  Flat  Heads  had  more  than  once,  been 
basely  betrayed  by  the  Banacs,  the  former  did  not  offer  to 
smoke  the  calmut.  I  hope  that  we  shall  have  no  difficulty 
to  bring  on  a  reconciliation.  The  Flat  Heads  will  undoubt- 
edly follow  the  advice  we  shall  give  them,  and  I  feel  confi- 
dent that  the  Banacs  will  be  satisfied  with  the  conditions. 
I  have  the  lionor  to  be 

Rev.  and  dear  Father  Provincial, 
Your  devoted  servant  and  son, 

P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


♦I 


'•I  'J 


M 


I 

I  1 


•11! 


1 1'f 


m 

r>  if 


LETTER   IX. 


il:. 


St.  Mary's,  18th  October,  1841. 
Rev.  and  Dear  Father: 

After  a  journey  of  four  months  and  a  half  on  horseback 
through  the  desert,  and  in  spite  of  our  actual  want  of  bread, 
wine,  sugar,  fruit,  and  all  such  things  as  are  called  the  con- 
veniences of  life,  we  find  our  strength  and  courage  increas- 
ed, and  are  better  prepared  than  ever  to  work  at  the  con- 
version of  the  souls  that  Providence  entrusts  to  our  care. 
Next  to  the  Author  of  all  good  things,  we  returned  thanks 
to  her  whom  the  church  reveres  as  the  Mother  of  her  Divine 
Spouse,  since  it  has  pleased  the  Divine  goodness  to  send  us 
the  greatest  consolations  on  several  days  consecrated  to  her 
honor.  On  the  feast  of  her  glorious  Assumption  we  met 
the  vanguard  of  our  dear  neopi^yles.  On  the  Sunday  with- 
in the  Octave,  we,  for  the  first  lime  since  my  return,  cele- 
brated the  Holy  Mysteries  among  them.  On  the  following 
Sunday  our  good  Indians  placed  themselves  and  their  chil- 
dren under  the  Immaculate  Heart  of  Mary,  of  which  we 
then  celebrated  the  feast.  This  act  of  devotion  was  renew- 
ed by  the  greai  chief  in  the  name  of  his  whole  tribe,  on  the 
feast  of  her  Holy  Name.  On  the  24th  of  September,  the 
feast  of  our  Lady  of  Mercy,  we  arrived  ai  the  river  called 
Bitter  Root,  on  the  banks  of  which  we  have  chosen  the 
site  for  our  principal  missionary  station.  On  the  first  Sun- 
day of  October,  feast  of  the  Rosary,  we  took  possession  of 
the  promised  land,  by  planting  a  cross  on  the  spot  wiiich 


liaising  of  the  House  of  Prayer. 


133 


we  had  chosen  for  our  first  residence.  What  motives  of 
encouragement  does  not  the  Gospel  of  the  present  Sunday 
add  to  all  these  mentioned  before.  To-day  too  we  celebrate 
the  Divine  Maternity,  and  what  may  we  not  expect  from  the 
Virgin  Mother  who  brought  forth  her  Son  for  the  salvation  of 
the  world.  On  the  feast  of  her  Patronage  we  shall  offer  by 
her  mediation  to  her  Divine  Son,  twenty-five  young  Indians, 
who  aie  to  be  baptized  on  that  day.  So  many  favors  have 
induced  us  unanimously  to  proclaim  Mary  the  protectress 
of  our  mission,  and  give  her  name  to  our  new  residence. 

These  remarks  may  appear  silly  to  such  as  attribute  eve- 
ry thing  to  chance  or  necessity,  but  to  such  as  believe  in 
the  wise  dispensations  of  the  Providence  of  God,  by  which 
all   things   are   governed  and  directed,  all   these   circum- 
r,«ances,  together  with  the  wonderful  manner  in  ',vhich  we 
' ;    been  called,  sent  and  led  to  this  new  mission  ;  and 
h';".  more  the  good  dispositions  manifested  by  the  Indians, 
will  appear  very  proper  motives  to  inspire  us  wiih  fresh 
courage,  and  with  the  hope  of  establishing  here,  on  a  small 
scale,  the  order  and  regularity  which  once  distinguished  our 
missions  in  Paraguay.     This  hope  is  not  founded  on  ima- 
gination, for  whilst  I  am  writing  these  lines,  I  hear  the  joy- 
ful voices  of  the  carpenters,  re-echoing  to  the  blows  on  the 
smith's  anvil,  and  I  see  them  engaged  in  raising  the  house 
of  prayer.     Besides,  three  Indians,  belonging  to  the  tribe 
called  Pointed  Hearts,  having  been  informed  of  our  arrival 
among  the  Flat  Heads,  have  just  come  to  entreat  us  to  have 
pity  on  them.     "  Father,"  said  one  of  them  to  me,  "  we 
are  truly  deserving  your  pity.    We  wish  to  serve  the  Great 
Spirit,  but  we  know  not  how.     We  want  some  one  to  teach 
us.     For  this  reason  we  make  application  to  you."  O  had 
some  of  my  brethren,  now  so  far  distant  from  us,  been  pre- 
sent here  last  Sunday,  when  towards  night  we  raised  the 

12 


:.i:!f, 


illifl 


M 


il 


,1:^1 


i^ 


ji  ■ 


M 


i.    1 


m 


'•■S'i 


dm 


(•':'f 


liii 


!S 


K 


134 


k\ 


Baptism  of  a  Chief. 


L>3 


tri 


\i.i 


august  sign  of  salvation,  the  standard  of  the  cross,  in  this 
small  but  zealous  tribe;  how  their  heaits  would  have  been 
moved  on  seeing  the  pious  joy  of  these  children  of  the  fo- 
rest! What  sentiments  of  faith  and  love  did  they  exhibit 
on  this  occasion,  when  headed  by  their  chief,  they  came  to 
kiss  the  foot  of  the  cross,  and  then  prostrate  on  their  knees, 
made  a  sacred  promise,  rather  to  suffer  death  a  thousand 
times,  than  to  forsake  the  religion  of  Jesus  Christ !  Who 
knows  how  many  of  this  chosen  band  may  be  destined  to 
become  cposiles  and  martyrs  of  our  holy  religion  !  Were 
we  more  numerous,  I  feel  confident  that  many  other  tribes 
would  become  members  of  the  kingdom  of  God  ;  perhaps 
more  than  two  hundred  thousand  might  be  converted  to 
Christ.  The  Fiat  Heads  and  the  Pointed  Hearts,  it  is  true 
are  not  numerous  tribes,  but  they  are  surrounded  by  many 
otliers  who  evince  the  best  dispositions.  The  Ponderas  or 
Pends-d'oreilles  are  very  numerous,  and  live  at  a  distance 
of  four  or  five  days  journey  from  our  present  establishment. 
The  chief  who  governed  them  last  year  and  who  has  been 
baptized  and  called  Peter,  is  a  true  apostle.  In  my  first 
visit  to  them  I  baptized  two  hundred  and  fifty  of  their  chil- 
dren. Many  other  tribes  have  the  same  origin,  and  tliough 
difTering  in  name,  their  languages  are  nearly  allied.  Next 
to  these  are  found  the  Spokans,  who  would  soon  follow  the 
example  of  the  neighboring  tribes;  the  Pierced  Noses,  who 
are  disgusted  at  the  conduct  of  the  Protestant  ministers  that 
have  settled  among  them;  the  Snakes,  the  Crows  and  the 
Banacs  whose  chief  we  have  seen.  Last  year  I  visited  the 
Sheyennes,  whom  I  twice  met  on  the  banks  of  the  Platte ; 
the  numerous  nation  of  the  Seioux,  and  the  three  allied 
tribes  called  Mandans,  Arickarees  and  Minatarees,  who  all 
have  given  me  so  many  proofs  of  respect  and  friendship  ;  the 
Omahas,  with  whom  I  have  had  so  many  conferences  on 


Character  of  the  Black  Feel. 


135 


•iii'" 


the  subject  of  religion,  and  many  others  who  seern  inclined 
to  embrace  the  truth. 

The  Black  Feet  are  the  only  Indians  of  whose  salvation 
we  would  have  reason  to  despair,  if  the  ways  of  God  wore 
the  same  as  those  of  man,  for  they  are  murderers,  thieves, 
traitors,  and  all  that  is  wicked.  But  were  not  the  Chiqui- 
tos,  the  Chiriquans,  the  Ilurcns,  and  the  Iroquois  equally 
wicked  before  their  conversion,  which  required  much  time 
and  great  help  from  above?  And  is  it  not  to  the  last,  that,  un- 
der God,  the  Flat  Heads  owe  their  desire  of  becoming  mem- 
bers of  his  church,  and  the  first  germs  of  the  copious  fruit 
that  has  been  produced  among  them  ?  What  is  more,  the 
Black  Feet  are  not  hostile  to  Black  Gowns.  We  have 
been  assured  by  other  Indians  that  we  would  have  nothing 
to  fear,  if  we  presented  ourselves  amongst  them  as  minis- 
ters  of  religion.  AVhen  last  year  I  fell  into  the  hands  of 
one  of  their  divisions,  and  it  was  ascertained  that  I  was  an 
interpreter  of  the  Great  Spirit,  they  carried  me  in  triumph 
on  a  buffalo  robe  to  their  village,  and  invited  me  to  a  ban- 
quet, at  which  all  the  great  men  of  the  tribe  assisted.  It 
was  on  this  occasion,  that,  whilst  I  said  grace,  I  was  asto- 
nished to  see  that  they  struck  the  earth  with  one  hand  and 
raised  the  other  towards  heaven,  to  signifv  that  the  earth 
produces  nothing  but  evil,  whilst  all  that  is  good  comes 
from  above.  From  all  this  you  will  easily  conclude  that 
the  harvest  is  great,  whilst  the  laborers  are  few. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  the  Missionaries  who  accompany  me, 
and  of  the  travellers  I  have  seen  in  the  Far  West,  in  short, 
of  all  those  who  have  become  acquainted  with  the  Flat 
Heads,  that  they  are  characterised  by  the  greatest  simplici- 
ty,  docility  and  uprightness.  Yet,  to  the  simplicity  of 
children  is  joined  the  courage  of  heroes.  They  never  be- 
gin the  attack,   but  wo  to  e;uch  as  provoke  them  or  treat 


v-A 


'li:. 


¥■  * 

I,' 


if' 


^1 


YA 


Slh 


if 


1 ) 


136 


Remarkable  Battle. 


them  unjustly.  A  handful  of  their  warriors  will  not  shrink 
from  an  enemy  twenty  times  more  numerous  than  they ; 
they  will  stand  and  repel  the  assault,  and  at  last  put  them 
to  flight,  and  make  them  repent  their  rashness.  Not  long 
before  my  first  arrival  among  them,  seventy  men  of  the 
tribe,  finding  themselves  forced  to  come  to  an  engagement 
with  a  thousand  Black  Feet  warriors,  determined  to  sustain 
the  attack,  and  rather  to  die  than  retreat.  Before  the  en- 
gagemeiit  they  prostrated  themselves  and  addressed  such 
prayers  as  they  had  learned  to  the  Great  Spirit.  They  rose 
full  of  courage,  sustained  the  first  shock,  and  soon  rendered, 
the  victory  doubtful.  The  fi{»ht,  with  several  interruptions, 
was  continued  five  successive  days,  till  at  last  the  Black 
Feet,  astounded  at  the  boldness  of  their  antagonists, 
were  panic  struck,  and  retreated  from  the  scene  of  action, 
leaving  many  killed  and  wounded  on  the  field  of  battle, 
whilst  not  one  warrior  of  the  Flat  Meads  was  killed.  But 
one  died  of  the  wounds  he  had  received,  and  his  death  hap- 
pened several  months  after  the  engagement,  on  the  day  suc- 
ceeding his  baptism — (though  the  point  of  an  arrow  had 
pierced  his  skull.)  It  was  on  the  same  occasion  that  Pil- 
chimo,  whom  I  have  already  mentioned,  gave  remarkable 
proofs  of  valor  and  attachment  to  his  fellow  warriors. 
All  the  horses  were  on  the  point  of  falling  into  the 
enemy's  hand.  Pilchimo  was  on  foot.  Not  far  ofli'  was  a 
squaw  on  horseback;  to  see  the  danger,  to  take  the  squaw 
from  her  horse  and  mount  it  himself,  to  gallop  to  the  other 
horses,  and  bring  them  together,  and  drive  them  into  the 
camp,  was  the  alFair  of  a  few  minutes.  Another  warrior, 
named  Sechelnield,  saw  a  Black  Foot  separated  from  his 
company,  and  armed  with  a  musket.  The  Black  Foot, 
taking  the  warrior  for  one  of  his  own  tribe,  asked  the  Flat 
Head  to  let  him  mount  behind  him.     The  latter  wishing  to 


\ 


Qt  shrink 

in   ihey; 

put  them 

Not  long 

n    of  the 

agement 

)  sustain 

!  the  en- 

lecl  such 

liey  rose 

'endered. 

iiptions, 

e  Black 

igonists, 

r  action, 

f  battle, 

d.     But 

alh  hap- 

'ay  sue- 

w  had 

at  Pil- 

rkable 

rriors. 

0    the 

was  a 

squaw 

other 

to  the 

arrior, 

m  his 

Foot, 

e  Flat 

ing  to 


I 


Simplicify  and  sincerity. 


137 


make  himself  master  of  the  musket,  agreed  to  the  proposal. 
They  advance  on  the  plain,  till  Sechelmed  seeing  that  the 
place  favored  his  design,  seizes  his  fellow  rider's  weapon, 
exclaiming;  •'  Black  Foot!  I  am  a  Flat  Head,  let  go  your 
musket."     He  wrests  it  from  his  hands,  despatches  him, 
remounts  the  horse,  and  gallops  off  in  pursuit  of  the  enemy. 
The  following  feat  equally  deserves  to  be  recorded  :     A 
Black  Foot  warrior  was  taken  and  woi'"'!" '  whilst  in  the 
act  of  stealing  a  horse.  The  night  was  di.iK  and  the  wound 
had  rendered  him  furious.     He   held  his  loaded  gun,  and 
threatened  death   to  any  one   that  should  approach  him. 
Peter,  one  of  the  chiefs  already  mentioned,  though  diminu- 
tive in  size,  and  far  advanced  in  years,  felt  his  cmirage  re- 
vived ;  he  runs  up  to  the  enemy,  and  with  one  blow  fells 
him  to  the  ground.     This   done  ha  throws  himself  on  his 
knees,  and  raising  his  eyes  towards  heaven,  he  is  reported 
to  have  said  :     "  Great  Spirit !  thou  knowest  that  I  did  not 
kill  this  Black  Foot  from  a  desire  of  revenge,  but  because  I 
was  forced  to  it;  be  merciful  to  him  in  the  other  world.    I 
forgive  him  from  the  bottom  of  my  heart  all  the  evils  which 
he  has  wished  to  inflict  upon  us,  and  to  prove  the  sincerity 
of  my  words   I   will  cover  him   with  my  garment."     This 
Peter  was  baptized  last  year,  and  became  the  apostle  of  his 
tribe.     Even  before   baptism,  his  simplicity  and  sincerity 
prompted  him  to  give  this  testimony  of  himself:     "  If  ever 
I  have  done  evil  it  was  through  ignorance,  for  I  have  always 
done  what  I  considered  good."    It  would  be  tedious  to  give 
un  account  of  his  zealous  endeavors.     Every  morning,  at 
an  early  hour,  he  lides  through  the  whole  village,  stops  at 
every  hut,  speaks  a  few  words  of  encouragement  and  re- 
proof,  as  circumstances  require,  and  exhorts  all  to  be  faith- 
ful in  the  performance  of  their  religious  and  social  duties. 

12* 


r' 


:-t!''; 


M,^.l 


n 


I 


i 


"1 


m 


138 


Piety  of  the  Flat  Heads. 


I  have  spoken  of  the  simplicity  and  the  courage  of  the 
Flat  Heads;  I  shall  make  some  other  remarks  concerning 
their  character.  They  little  resemble  the  majority  of  the 
Indians,  who  are,  generally  speaking,  uncouth,  impor- 
tunate, improvident,  insolent,  stubb.;n  and  cruel. — 
The  Flat  Heads  are  disin  rested,  generous,  devoted  to 
their  brethren  and  friends  ;  irreproachable,  and  even  exem- 
plary, as  regards  probity  and  morality.  Among  them,  dis- 
sensions, quarrels,  injuries  and  enemilies  are  unknown. 
During  my  stay  in  the  tribe  last  year,  I  have  never  remarked 
any  thing  that  was  contrary  to  modesty  and  decorum  in  the 
manners  and  conversation  of  the  men  and  women.  It  is 
true  that  the  children,  whilst  very  young,  are  entirely 
without  covering,  but  this  is  a  general  custom  among  the 
Indians,  and  seems  to  have  no  bad  effect  upon  them  ;  we 
are  determined,  however,  to  abolish  this  custom  as  soon  as 
we  shall  be  able  to  do  it.  Wiih  respect  to  religion,  the 
Flat  Heads  are  distinguished  by  the  firmness  of  their  faith, 
and  the  ardor  of  their  zeal.  Not  a  vestige  of  their  former 
superstitions  can  be  discovered.  Their  confidence  in  us  is 
unlimited.  They  believe  without  any  difficulty  the  most 
profound  mysteries  of  our  holy  religion,  as  soon  as  they  are 
proposed  to  them,  and  they  do  not  even  suspect  that  we 
might  be  deceived,  or  even  could  wish  to  deceive  them.  I 
have  already  mentioned  what  exertions  they  have  made  to 
obtain  Black-gowns  for  their  tribe;  the  journeys,  underta- 
kings, the  dangers  incurred,  the  misfortunes  suffered  to  at- 
tain their  object.  Their  conduct  during  my  absence  from 
them  has  been  truly  regular  and  edifying.  They  attend 
divine  service  with  the  greatest  punctuality,  and  pay  the 
most  serious  attention  to  the  explanation  of  the  Catechism. 
What  modesty  and  fervent  piety  do  they  not  exhibit  in 


A  great  Chief. 


139 


their  prayers,  and  with  what  humble  simplicity  they  speak 
of  their  former  blindness,  and  of  such  things  as  tend  to  re- 
flect honor  upon  their  present  conduct.  On  this  last  sub- 
ject their  simplicity  is  truly  admirable :  ii  Father,"  some 
will  say,  with  down  cast  eyes,  •»  what  I  tell  you  now  I 
have  never  mentioned  to  any  one,  nor  shall  I  ever  mention 
it  to  others  ;  and  if  I  speak  of  it  to  you,  it  is  because  you 
wish  and  have  a  right  to  know  it." 

The  chiefs,  who   might   be  more    properly  called   the 
fathers  of  the  tribe,  having  only  to  express  iheir  will,  and 
are  obeyed,  arc  always  listened  to,  and  are  not  less  remark- 
able for  their  docility  in  our  regard  than  for  llie  ascendancy 
they   posseiis    over    their   people.     The    most  influential 
among  them,  surn;imed   "The    Lilile    Ciiief,"   from    the 
smallness  of  his  stature,  whether  considered  as  a  christian 
or  a  warrior,  might  stand  a  comparison  with  the  most  re- 
nowned character  of  ancient  chivalry.     On  one  occasion, 
he  sustained  the  assaults  of  a  whole  village,  which,  contrary 
to  all  justice,   attacked  his  people.     On  another  occasion,' 
when  the  Banacs  had  been  guilty  of  the  blackest  treason, 
he  marched  against  them  with  a  party  of  warriors  not  one- 
tenth  the  number  of  their  aggressors.     But,  under  such  a 
leader,  his  liiilo  band  believed  themselves  invincible,  and 
invoking  the  protection  of  heaven,  rushed  upon  the  enemy, 
and  took  signal  vengeance  of  the  traitors,  killing  nine  of 
their  number.     More  would  have  been  killed,  had  not  the 
voice  of  Litde  Chief  arrested  them  in  the  very  heat  of  the 
pursuit,  announcing  that  it  was  the  Sabb.^th,  and  the  hour 
of  prayer.     Upon  this  signal,  they  gave  over  the  pursuit, 
and  returned  to  their  camp.     Arrived  there,  they  imme- 
diately,  without  thinking  of  dressing  their  wounds,  fell 
upon  their  knees  in  the  dust,  to  render  to  the  Lord  of  Hosts 
the  honor  of  the  victory.     Little  Chief  had  received  a  ball 


\yj 


^1!    1 


ir 


m 


■':i-. 


I?  5  > 


i\ 


140 


*^n  exemplary    Chief, 


through  the  right  hand,  which  had  entirely  deprived  him  of 
its  use ;  but  seeing  two  of  his  comrades  more  severely 
wounded  than  himself,  he  with  his  other  hand  rendered 
them  every  succor  in  his  power,  remaining  the  whole 
night  in  attendance  upon  them.  On  several  other  occa- 
sions, he  acted  with  equal  courage,  prudence  and  human- 
ity, so  that  his  reputation  became  widily  spread.  The 
Nez-perces,  a  nation  far  more  numerous  than  the  Flat 
Heads,  came  to  offer  him  the  dignity  of  being  their  Great 
Chief.  He  might  have  accepted  it  without  detriment  to 
the  lights  of  any  one,  as  every  Indian  is  free  to  leave  his 
chief,  and  place  himself  uader  any  other  head  he  may  think 
proper,  and,  of  course,  to  accept  any  higher  grade  that  may 
be  offered  to  him.  But  Little  Chief,  content  with  the  post 
assigned  him  by  Providence,  refused  the  offer,  however 
honorable  to  him,  with  this  simple  remark,  "By  the  will 
of  the  Great  Master  of  life  I  was  born  among  the  Flat 
Heads,  and  if  such  be  His  will,  among  the  Flat  Heads  I 
am  determined  to  die;" — a  patriotic  feeling,  highly  hono- 
rable to  him.  As  a  warrior,  still  more  honorable  to  his 
character  are  the  mildness  and  humility  manifested  by  him. 
He  said  to  me,  once:  "Till  we  came  to  know  the  true 
God,  alas,  how  blinded  were  we  !  We  prayed,  it  is  true — 
but  to  whom  did  we  address  our  prayers?  In  truth,  I 
know  not  how  the  Great  Spirit  could  have  borne  with  us  so 
long."  At  present  his  zeal  is  most  exemplary  ;  not  con- 
tent with  being  the  foremost  in  all  the  offices  at  chapel,  he 
is  always  the  first  and  last  at  the  family  prayers,  and  even 
before  break  of  day  he  is  heard  singing  the  praises  of  his 
Maker.  His  characteristic  trait  is  mildness;  and  yet  he 
can  assume  due  firmness,  not  to  say  severity  of  manner, 
when  he  sees  it  necessary  to  exercise  more  rigorous  disci- 
pline.    Some  days  before  our  arrival,  one  of  the  young 


11 ' '     '• 

Im 


Death  of  a  young  woman. 


141 


...ii 


his 

him. 

true 

ue — 

th,  I 

IS  so 

con- 

,  he 

even 

'his 

t  he 

ner, 

isci- 

ung 


women  had  absented  herself  from  prayer,  without  a  siifTi- 
cient  reason.  Ho  sent  for  her,  and  after  reading  her  a  lec- 
ture before  nil  the  household,  enforced  his  motives  for 
greater  attention  in  future,  by  a  smart  application  of  the 
cane.  And  how  did  the  young  offender  receive  the  cor- 
rection ?  With  the  most  humble  and  praiseworthy  sub- 
mission. 

The  Flat  Heads  arc  fond  of  praying.  After  tlie  regular 
evening  prayer,  thoy  will  assi^inMc  in  their  tents  to  pray  or 
sing  canticles.  These  pious  exercises  will  I'rerpioiitly  bo 
prolonged  till  a  l;ite  hour;  atid  if  any  wake  during  tlm 
night,  they  begin  to  pray.  Before  makin;'  his  prayer,  the 
good  old  Simoon  i^ets  up  and  rakes  out  llic  live  co:il->  upon 
his  hearth,  and  when  his  prayer  is  done,  which  is  always 
preceded  and  followed  by  the  sign  of  the  cross,  he  smokes 
his  calmut  and  then  turns  in  airain.  This  he  will  do  three 
or  four  times  during  tha  night.  There  wai=  a  lime,  also, 
when  these  more  watchful  spirits  of  the  household,  not 
content  with  praying  themselves,  would  awaken  the  sleep- 
ers, anxious  to  make  them  partakers  of  ihu  nood  work. — 
These  pious  excesses  had  sprung  from  a  little  piece  of  ad- 
vice I  had  aivcn  them  on  my  first  visit,  iliat  "  on  waking  nt 
nieht  it  was  commendable  to  raise  the  heart  to  God."  It 
has  since  been  explained  to  them  how  Uiey  arc  to  under- 
stand the  advice.  This  night,  between  the  2r)ih  and  20lh, 
the  prayers  and  canticles  have  not  ceased.  Yesterday,  a 
young  woman  having  died  who  had  received  baptism  four 
days  previously,  we  recomaiended  them  to  pray  for  the  re- 
pose of  her  soul.  Her  reujains  were  deposited  at  the  foot 
of  the  Calvary,  erected  in  ihs  midst  of  the  camp.  On  the 
cross  upon  her  grave  might  confidently  be  inscribed  the 
words  :  la  spem  Resurrect ionis — In  hope  of  a  glorious  Re- 
surrection.    We  shall   shortly  have  to  celebrate  the  com- 


ri 


•    'I 


;  i^i 


P^i 


I'll 


■■  «ir  ^4 


:!■  ^i 


S 


■ 


.  >     ti 


112 


Sundat/  dtvotiom. 


momoralion  of  llio  fiiiliful  ticparteil ;  this  will  afl'ord  u«  an 
opportiiiiiiy  ol' csfiblishiiig  llio  very  christian  and  stanrlinj? 
cuHlom  ol  prayiufT  for  the  dt^ad  in  their  pl:ice  of  interment. 

On  Sundays,  the  exercises  of  devotion  arc  lonjfer  and 
more  numerous,  and  yet  thoy  are  never  fatigued  with  the 
pious  duty.  'J'hey  feel  that  the  happiness  of  the  little  and 
of  tlie  humhio  is  to  speak  with  their  Heavenly  Father,  and 
that  no  liouse  presents  ^o  many  attractions  as  the  house  of 
the  IiOtd.  Indeed,  so  reliijiously  is  the  Sunday  observed 
here,  that  on  this  day  of  rest,  even  before  our  coming,  the 
most  timorous  deer  might  wander  unmolested  in  the  midst 
of  the  tribe,  even  though  they  were  reduced  by  want  of 
provisions  to  the  most  rigorous  fast.  For,  in  the  eyes  of 
this  people,  to  use  the  bow  nnd  arrow  on  this  day,  would 
not  have  appeared  less  culpable  than  did  the  gathering  of 
wood  to  the  scrupulous  lidelity  of  the  people  of  God. — 
Since  they  iiave  conceived  a  juster  idea  of  the  law  of  grace, 
they  are  less  slaves  to  •'  the  letter  that  killeth  ;"  but  still  de- 
sirous to  bo  faithful  to  the  very  letter,  they  are  studious  to 
do  their  best,  and  when  any  doubt  arises,  they  hasten  to  be 
enlightened  thereon,  soliciting  in  a  spirit  of  faith  and  hu- 
mility that  permission  of  whioli  they  may  think  themselves 
to  stand  in  need. 

The  principal  chief  is  named  "  Big  Face,"  on  account  of 
the  somewhat  elongated  form  of  his  visage;  he  might  more 
nobly  and  more  appropriately  be  named  The  Nestor  of  the 
Desert,  for  as  well  in  years  as  in  stature  and  sagacity  he  has 
all  the  essentials  of  greatness.  From  his  earliest  infancy, 
nay,  even  before  he  could  know  his  parents,  he  had  been 
the  child  of  distress.  Being  left  a  helpless  orphan,  by  the 
death  of  his  mother,  with  no  one  to  protect  him,  it  was  pro- 
posed to  bury  him  with  her  in  the  same  grave — a  circum- 
stance that  may  serve  to  give  some  idea  of  the  ignorance 
and  brutality  of  his  tribe.     But  the  Almighty,   who  had 


till  (le- 
xis to 
lo  be 
(1  hii' 
'elves 

lint  of 
liiore 
fthe 
e  has 
ncy, 
been 
Y  the 
pro- 
;um- 
anoe 
had 


Confidence  in  the  (irmt  S/tirit. 


148 


>iher 


trcl, 


3ii  the  h 


uiner  purposes  in  his  rcgnrcl,  moved  the  heart  ot  a  young 
woman  to  compassionate  his  helpless  condition,  and  ofTcr 
to  become  a  mother  to  him.     Iter  humanity  was  abundant* 
ly  recompensed  by  seeing  her  adopted  son  distinguished 
above  all  his  fellows  by  intelligence,  gentleness,  and  every 
good  di.sposition.     lie  was  grateful,  docile,  charitable,  and 
naturally  so  disposed  to  picly,  that,  from  a  want  of  know- 
ing the  true  God,  he  more  than  once  was  led  to  place  his 
trust  in  that  which  was  but  the  work  of  his  own  hands. — 
Heing  one  day  lost  in  a  forest,  and  rcduC'  to  extremity,  iie 
began  lo  embrace  the  trunk  of  a  fallen  tree,  and  lo  coiijure  it 
10  have  pity  upon  him.     Nor  is  it  above  two  inonihb  since 
a  serious  loss  befel  him  ;  indeed  one  of  llic  moslseiious  tha' 
could  happen  to  an  Indian — the  loss  of  thitc  calmuls  at  'ifC 
same  tin>e.     He  spent  no  time  in  retracing  his  sic;  *,  md  lo 
interest  heaven  in  his  favor,  he  put  up  the  followii'g  p  ;'yer : 
•'  Oh   Great  Spirit,  you  who  see  all  tliinffs  and  undo  all 
things,  grant,  I  entreat  you,  that  I  ni:iy  find  what  I  am  look- 
ing for ;  i>nd  yet  Itt  thy  will  bo  done."      This  prayer  should 
have  been  addressed  to  God.     Ho  did  not  find  ilu  calmuts, 
but  in  their  place  he  received  what  was  of  mure  incompara- 
ble   value — simplicity,   piety,   wisdom,  patience,  courage, 
and  cool  intrepidity  in  the  hour  of  danger.     Mure  favored 
in  one  respect  than  Moses,  this  new  guide  cf  another  people 
lo  God,  after  a  longer  sojournment  in  I'u    wildnerness,  was 
at  length  successful  in  introducing  his  children  into  ihe  land 
of  promise.     He  was  the  tirst  of  his  tribe  who  received 
baptism,   and  took  the  name  of  Paul,  and  like  his  patron, 
the  great  Apostle,  he  has  laooied  assiduously  to  gain  over 
his  numerous  children  to  the  friendship  and  love  of  his 
Lord  and  Master. 

I  remain.  Rev.  Father  Provincial, 

Yours,  &c. 
P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


ifi 


li"*' 


liJ 


llFil 


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■U' 


LETTER   X 


M' 


St.  Mary's,  Rocky  Mountains,  2Gih  Oct.  1842. 


Rev.  and  Dear  Fatlier  Provincial 


f 


This  last  letter  will  contain  the  practical  conclusions  o 
what  has  been  stated  in  the  preceding.  1  am  confident  that 
these  conclusions  will  be  very  agreeai)le  and  consoling  to 
all  persons  who  feel  interested  in  the  progress  of  our  holy 
religion,  and  who  vtry  prudently  refuse  to  form  a  decided 
opinion,  unless  they  can  found  it  on  well  attested  facts. 

From  what  has  hitherto  been  said,  we  may  draw  this 
conclusion,  that  the  nation  of  the  Flat  Heads  appear  to  be  a 
chosen  people — "  the  elect  of  God  ;"  that  it  would  be  easy 
to  make  this  tribe  a  iT^odel  for  other  tribes,- — the  seed  of 
two  hundred  thousand  christians,  who  would  be  as  fervent 
as  were  the  converted  Indians  of  Paraguay  ;  and  that  the 
conversion  of  the  former  would  be  effected  with  more  facil- 
ity than  thai  of  the  latter.  The  Flat  Heads  have  no  coui- 
raunication  with  corrupt  tribes  ;  they  hold  all  sects  in  aver- 
sion ;  ihey  have  a  horror  of  idolatry  ;  they  cherish  much 
sympathy  for  the  whites,  but  chiefly  for  the  Black  Gowns, 
(Catholic  Priests)  a  name,  which,  in  consequence  of  the 
prepossessions  and  favorable  impressions,  which  they  have 
received  from  the  Iroquois,  is  synonymous  with  goodness, 
learning,  and  Catholicity.  Their  position  is  central. — 
Their  territory  sufficiently  extensive  to  contain  several 
missions ;  the  land  is  fertile,  the  country  surrounded  by 


Jlules  of  conduct. 


145 


high  mountains.  They  are  independent  of  all  authority 
except  that  of  God,  and  those  who  represent  him.  They 
have  no  tribute  to  pay  but  that  of  prayer ;  they  have  al- 
ready acquired  practical  experience  of  the  advantages  of  a 
civilized  over  a  barbarous  slate  of  life ;  and  in  line,  they  are 
fully  convinced  and  firmly  persuaded  that  without  the  reli- 
gion that  is  announced  to  them,  they  can  be  happy  neither 
in  this  world  nor  in  the  next. 

From  all  these  considerations,  we  may  again  draw  the 
conclusions,  that  ihe  best  end  which  we  can  propose  to 
ourselves  is  that  which  our  Fathers  of  Paraguay  had  in 
view  when  they  commenced  their  missionary  labors ;  and 
that  the  means  to  attain  this  end  should  be  the  same, 
chiefly  because  these  means  have  been  approved  by  the 
most  respectable  authorities,  crowned  with  perfect  success, 
and  admired  even  by  the  enemies  of  our  religion. 

The  principle  being  admitted,  it  only  remains  to  form 
a  correct  idea  of  the  method  employed  by  our  Fathers  in 
Paraguay  to  improve  the  minds^  and  hearts  of  their  Neo- 
phytes, and  to  bring  them  to  that  degree  of  perfection  of 
which  they  conceived  them  susceptible.  After  having  se- 
riously reflected  on  what  Muratori  relates  of  the  establish- 
ments in  Paraguay,  we  have  concluded  that  the  f(  ilowing 
points  should  be  laid  down,  as  rules  to  direct  the  conduct  of 
our  converts. 

1.  With  regard  to  God. — Simple,  firm,  and  lively  faith 
with  respect  to  all  the  truths  of  religion,  and  chiefly 
such  as  are  to  be  believed  as  Theologians  express  it,  ne- 
cessitate medii  et  necessitate  proecepti.  Profound  respect 
for  the  only  true  religion  ;  perfect  submission  to  the  church 
of  God,  in  all  that  regards  faith  and  morality,  discipline, 
&c.     Tender  and  solid  piety  towards  the  Blessed  Virgin 

13 


4 

ill ! 


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I 


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1  ! 


lit 


'Mi 


m 
m 


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.:  ■'Vl 


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Hii 


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140 


Rules,  Sf'C, 


and  ihe  Saints.     Desire  of  the  conversion  of  others.     Cou- 
rage and  fortitude  of  the  Martyrs. 

2.  l^f^ith  regard  to  our  neighbor. — Respect  for  those  in 
authority,  for  parents,  the  aged,  &:(;.  Justice,  charity,  and 
generosity  towards  all. 

3.  l^Pith  regard  to  one^s  self. — Humility,  modesty, 
meekness,  discretion,  temperance,  irreproachable  behavior, 
industry  or  love  of  labor,  &c. 

We  shall  strenuously  recommend  the  desire  of  the  con- 
version of  others,  because  Providence  seems  to  have  great 
designs  with  respect  to  our  small  tribe.  In  one  of  our  in- 
structions given  in  a  little  chapel,  constructed  of  boughs, 
not  less  than  twenty-four  nations  were  represented,  inclu- 
ding ourselves.  Next,  the  courage  and  fortitude  of  the 
Martyrs,  because  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Black  Feet 
there  is  continual  danger  of  losing  either  the  life  of  the 
sou],  or  that  of  the  body.  Also,  industry  or  the  love  of  la- 
bor, because  idleness  is  the  predominant  vice  of  Indians ; 
and  even  the  Flat  Htads,  if  they  are  not  addicted  to  idle- 
ness, at  least,  manifest  a  striking  inaptitude  to  manual  la- 
bor, and  it  will  be  absolutely  necessary  to  conquer  this. — 
To  ensure  success,  much  time  and  patience  will  be  re- 
quired. Finally  and  chiefly,  profound  respect  for  the  true 
religion,  to  counteract  the  manoeuvres  of  various  sectaries, 
who,  desirous  as  it  would  seem,  to  wipe  away  the  reproach 
formerly  made  by  Muratoii,  and  in  our  days  by  the  celebra- 
ted Dr.  Wiseman,  use  all  their  efforts  to  make  proselytes, 
and  to  appear  disinterested,  and  even  zealous  in  the  propa- 
gation of  their  errors. 

4.  With  regard  to  the  means. — Flight  from  all  contam- 
inating influence;  not  only  from  the  corruption  of  the  age, 
but  from  what  the  gospel  calls  the  world.     Caution  against 


f ''.. 


Rules,  S,'c. 


147 


Cou- 


all  immedirUfc  intercourse  with  the  whites,  even  with  the 
workmen,  whom  necessity  compels  us  to  employ,  for 
though  these  arc  not  wicked,  still  they  are  far  from  pos- 
sessing the  qualities  necessary  to  serve  as  m'>dels  to  men 
who  are  humble  enough  to  think  they  are  more  or  less  per- 
fect, in  proportion  as  their  conduct  corresponds  with  that 
of  the  whites.  We  shall  confine  them  to  the  knowledge  of 
their  own  language,  erect  schools  among  them,  and  teach 
them  reading,  writing,  arithmetic  and  singing.  Should 
any  exception  be  made  to  this  general  rule,  it  will  be  in 
favor  of  a  small  number,  and  only  when  their  good  disposi- 
tions will  induce  us  to  hope  that  we  may  employ  them  as 
auxiliaries  in  religion.  A  more  extensive  course  of  instruc- 
tion would  undoubtedly  prove  prejudicial  to  these  good  In- 
dians, whose  simplicity  is  such  that  they  might  eas^ily  be 
imposed  upon,  if  they  were  to  come  in  contact  with  error, 
whilst  it  is  the  source  of  all  truth  and  virtue  when  enlight* 
ened  by  the  flambeau  of  faith.  La  Harpe  himself,  speak- 
ing of  the  Apostolic  laborers  of  our  society,  says  that  the 
perfection  of  our  ministry  consists  in  illumining  by  faith 
the  ignorance  of  the  savage. 

To  facilitate  the  attainment  of  the  end  in  view,  we  have 
chosen  the  place  of  the  6rst  missionary  station,  formed  the 
plan  of  the  village,  made  a  division  of  the  lands,  determined 
the  form  of  the  various  buildings,  &;c.  The  buildings 
deemed  most  necessary  and  useful  at  present  are,  a  church, 
schools,  work  houses,  store  houses,  &;c.  Next,  we  have 
made  regulations  respecting  public  worship,  religious  exer- 
cises, instructions,  catechisms,  confraternities,  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  Sacraments,  singing,  music,  &,c.  All  this  is 
to  be  executed  in  conformity  with  the  plan  formerly  adopted 
in  the  Missions  of  Paraguay. 

Such  are  the  resolutions  which  we  have  adopted,  and 


III 


mi 


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ti-'t 


I 


Mi 


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148 


HuleSf  ^c. 


which  we  submit  to  be  approved,  amended  or  modified,  by 
those  who  have  the  greater  glory  of  God  at  heart,  and 
who,  by  their  position  and  the  graces  of  their  state  of  life, 
are  designed  by  the  Most  High  to  communicate  to  us  the 
true  spirit  of  our  Society. 
Believe  me  to  be, 

Rev.  and  dear  Father  Provincial, 

Your  devoted  son  in  Christ, 

P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J, 


{? 


!.*! 


■;  I 


'I 

1 


ified,  by 
art,  and 
B  of  life, 
)  us  the 


LETTER    XI. 


S.  J, 


St.  Mary's,  December — ,  1841. 
Reverend  Father  : 

I  SHALL  here  give  you  the  remarks  and  observations  I 
have  made,  and  the  information  I  have  gathered,  during  this 
last  journey,  concerning  some  customs  and  practices  of  the 
savages. 

In  speaking  of  the    animals,  I    inquired  of  seven  Flat 
Heads,  who  were  present,  how  many  cows  they  had  killed 
between  them  in  their  last  hunt  ?     The  number  amounted 
to  one  hundred  and  eighty-nine — one  alone  had  killed  fifty- 
nine.     One  of  the  Flat  Heads  told  me  of  three  remarkable 
hits  which  had  distinguished  him  in  that  chase.     He  pur- 
sued a  cow,  armed  merely  with  a  stone,  and  killed  her  by 
striking   her   while  running,  between  the  horns;  he  after- 
wards killed  a  second  with  his  knife  ;  and  finished  his  ex- 
ploits by  spearing  and  strangling  a  large  ox.     The  young 
warriors  frequently  exercise  themselves  in  this  manner,  to 
show  their  agility,  dexterity  and  strength.     He  who  spoke 
looked  like  a  Hercules.     They  then,  (a  lare  favor,  for  they 
are  not  boasters,)  kindly  showed  me  the  scars  left  by  the 
balls  and  arrows  of  the  Black  Feet  in  their  different  encoun- 
ters.    One  of  them  bore  the  scars  of  four  balls  which  had 
pierced  his  thigh;  the  only  consequence  of  which  was  a 
little  stiffness  of  the  leg,  scarcely  perceptible.  Another  had 
his  arm  and  breast  pierced  by  a  ball.     A  third,  beside  some 
wounds  from  a  knife  and  spear,  had  an  arrow,  five  inches 

13* 


■    'I' 


\\', 


i  1-1' 


m 

•Pi- 

i;' 


>.'"  ."A 


■  *iil 


iii 


150 


Domestic  habits. 


N 


>'  i  t'l 


deep,  in  his  belly.  A  fourth  had  still  two  balls  in  his  body. 
One  among  them,  a  cripple,  had  his  leg  broken  by  a  bah 
sent  by  an  enemy  concealed  in  a  hole;  leaping  on  one  leg 
he  fell  upon  the  Black  Foot,  and  the  hiding  place  of  the  foe 
became  his  grave.  *'  These  Black  Feet,"  I  remarked, 
••  are  terrible  people."  The  Indian  who  last  spoke  replied 
in  the  sense  of  the  words  of  Napoleon's  grenadier,  "  Oui, 
mais  ils  meurent  vite  apres."  I  expressed  a  desire  to  know 
the  medicines  which  they  used  in  such  cases;  they,  much 
surprised  at  my  question,  replied,  laughing,  •'  we  apply  no- 
thing to  our  wounds,  they  close  of  themselves."  This  re- 
called to  me  the  reply  of  Captain  Bridger  in  the  past  year. 
He  had  had,  within  four  years,  two  quivers-full  of  arrows 
in  his  body.  Being  asked  if  the  wounds  had  been  long 
suppurating,  he  answered  in  a  comical  manner,  "  among  the 
mountains  nothing  corrupts." 

The  Indians  who  live  on  Clarke  river  are  of  the  middle 
size.  The  women  are  very  filthy.  Their  faces,  hands 
and  feet  are  black  and  slifT  with  dirt.  They  rub  them 
every  morning  with  a  composition  of  red  and  brown 
earth  mixed  up  with  fish  oil.  Their  hair,  always  long 
and  dishevelled,  serves  them  for  a  towel  to  wipe  their 
hands  on.  Their  garment  is  generally  tattered,  and  stiff 
and  shining  with  dust  and  grease.  They  seem  to  be  less 
subjected  to  slavish  labor  than  the  squaws  thai  live 
East  of  the  Mountains,  still  they  have  to  toil  hard,  and  to 
do  whatever  is  most  dimcult.  They  are  obliged  to  carry 
all  the  household  furniture  or  to  row  the  canoe  when  they 
move  from  one  place  to  another  ;  at  home,  they  fetch  the 
wood  and  the  water,  clean  the  fish,  prepare  the  meals,  ga- 
ther the  roots  and  fruits  of  the  season,  and  when  any  lei- 
sure time  is  left,  they  spend  it  in  making  mats,  baskets  and 
hats  of  bull-rushes.     What  must  appear  rather  singular  is. 


I  t 


ga- 
lei. 
sand 
ir  18, 


Conjurers. 


151 


that  the  men  more  frequently  handle  the  needle  than  the 
squaws.  Their  chief  occupations,  however,  are  fisiiing  and 
hunting.  These  Indians  sufTer  much  from  opthalmic  affec- 
tions. Scarcely  a  cahin  is  to  be  found  on  Clarke  river,  in 
which  there  is  not  a  blind  or  one  eyed  person,  or  some  one 
laboring  under  some  disease  of  the  eye.  This  probably  pro- 
ceeds from  two  causes — first,  because  they  are  frequently 
on  the  water  and  exposed  from  morning  till  night  to  the 
direct  and  reflected  rays  of  the  sun,  and  next,  because  liv- 
ing in  low  cabins  made  of  bull-rushes,  the  large  fire  they 
make  in  the  centre  fills  it  with  smoke,  which  must  gradu- 
ally injure  their  eyes. 

Conjurers  are  found  here  as  well  as  in  some  parts  of  Eu- 
rope. They  are  a  kind  of  physicians.  Whatever  may  be 
the  complaint  of  the  patient  these  gentlemen  have  him 
stretched  out  on  his.  back,  and  his  friends  and  relatives  are 
ordered  to  stand  round  him,  each  one  armed  with  two  slicks 
of  unequal  length.  The  doctor  or  conjurer  neither  feels 
the  pulse  nor  looks  at  the  tongue,  but  with  a  solemn  coun- 
tenance commences  to  sing  some  mournful  strain,  whilst 
those  present  accompany  him  with  their  voices  and  beat 
time  with  the  sticks.  During  the  singing  the  doctor  ope- 
rates on  the  patient,  he  kneels  before  him,  and  placing  his 
closed  fists  on  the  stomach,  leans  on  him  with  all  his  might. 
Excessive  pain  makes  the  patient  roar,  but  his  roarings  are 
lost  in  the  noise,  for  the  doctor  and  the  bystanders  raise 
their  voices  higher  in  proportion  as  the  sick  man  gives  ut- 
terance to  his  suflerings.  At  the  end  of  each  stanza  the 
doctor  joins  his  hands,  applies  them  to  the  patient's  lips, 
and  blows  with  all  his  strength.  This  operation  is  repeat- 
ed till  at  last  the  doctor  takes  from  the  patient's  mouth,  ei- 
ther a  little  white  stone,  or  the  claw  of  some  bird  or  animal, 
which  he  exhibits  to  the  bystanders,  protesting  that  he  has 


1 


I 


n 


152 


Etalapaase. 


removed  llie  cause  of  the  disease,  and  that  the  patient  will 
soon  recover.     But  whether  he  recover  or  die,  the  quack  is 
here  as  elsewhere  rewarded  for  his   exertions.     Mundus 
vult  decipi,\a  the  watchword  of  quacks,  jugglers  and  moun- 
tebanks; and  it  seems  that  the  Indian  conjurers  are  not  un- 
acquainted with  it.     I  received  this  description  of  their  me- 
thod of  curing  diseases  from  a  clerk  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company.     I  shall  subjoin  another  anecdote   concerning 
the  religious  ideas  entertained  by  the  Tehenooks.    All  men, 
they  say,  were  created  by  a  divinity  called  Etalapasse,  but 
they  were  created  imperfect  or  unfinished.     Their  mouths 
were  not  oleft,  their  eyes  were  closed,  and  their  hands  and 
feet  were   immoveable;  so  that  they  were  rather  living 
lumps  of  flesh  than  men.     Another  divinity,  whom  they 
call  EcanrMm,  (resembling  the  Nanaboojoo  of  the  Poto- 
wattamies,)  less  powerful,  but  more   benevolent  than  the 
former,  seeing  the  imperfect  state  of  these  men,  took  a  sharp 
stone  and  with  it  opened  their  mouths  and  eyes.     He  also 
gave  motion  to  their  hands  and  feet.     This  merciful  divini- 
ty did  not  rest  satisfied  with  conferring  these  first  favors  on 
the  human  race.     He  taught  them  to  make  canoes  and  pad- 
dles, nets  and  all  the  implements  now  used  by  the  Indians. 
He   threw   large  rocks  into   the   rivers  to   obstruct  their 
courses,  and  confine  the  fish  in  order  that  the  Indians  might 
catch  them  in  larger  quantities. 

When  I  speak  of  the  Indian  character,  I  do  not  mean  to 
include  the  Indians  that  live  in  the  neighborhood  of  civi- 
lized man,  and  have  intercourse  with  him.  It  is  acknow- 
ledged in  the  United  States,  that  the  whiles  who  trade  with 
those  Indians,  not  only  demoralize  them  by  the  sale  of  spi- 
rituous liquors,  but  communicate  to  them  their  own  vices, 
of  which  some  are  shocking  and  revolting  to  nature.  The 
Indian  left  to  himself,  is  circumspect  and  discreet  in   his 


Trails  of  character. 


153 


words  and  actions.  He  seldom  gives  way  to  passion  ;  ex- 
cept against  the  hereditary  enemies  of  his  nation.  When 
there  is  question  of  them,  his  words  breathe  hatred  and 
vengeance.  He  seeks  revenge,  because  he  firmly  believes 
that  it  is  the  only  means  by  which  he  can  retrieve  his  honor 
when  he  has  been  insulted  or  defeated  ;  because  he  thinks 
that  only  low  and  vulgar  minds  can  forget  an  injury,  and 
he  fosters  rancor  decause  he  deems  it  a  virtue.  With  re- 
spect to  others,  the  Indian  is  cool  and  dispassionate,  check- 
ing the  least  violent  emotion  of  his  heart.  Thus  should  he 
know  that  one  of  his  friends  is  in  danger  of  being  attacked 
by  an  enemy  lying  in  wait  for  him,  he  will  not  openly  tell 
him  so,  (for  he  would  deem  this  an  act  of  fear,)  but  will 
ask  him  where  he  intends  to  go  that  day,  and  alter  having 
received  an  answer,  will  add  with  the  same  indifl'erence, 
that  a  wild  beast  lies  hidden  on  the  way.  This  figurative 
remark  will  render  his  friend  as  cautious  as  if  he  were  ac- 
quainted with  all  the  designs  and  movements  of  the  enemy. 
Thus  again,  if  an  Indian  has  been  hunting  without  success, 
he  will  go  to  the  cabin  of  one  of  his  friends,  taking  care  not 
to  show  the  least  sign  of  disappointment  or  impatience,  nor 
to  speak  of  the  hunger  which  hs  suffers.  He  will  sit  down 
and  smoke  the  calmut  with  as  much  indifference  as  if  he  had 
been  successful  in  the  chase.  He  acts  in  the  same  manner 
when  he  is  among  strangers.  To  give  signs  of  disappoint- 
ment or  impatience,  is  looked  upon  by  the  Indians  as  a 
mark  of  cowardice,  and  would  earn  for  them  the  appella- 
tion of  "  old  woman,"  which  is  the  most  injurious  and  de- 
grading epithet  that  can  be  applied  to  an  Indian.  If  an 
Indian  be  told  that  his  children  have  distinguished  them- 
selves in  battle, — that  they  have  taken  several  scalps,  and 
have  carried  off  many  enemies  and  horses,  without  giving 
the  least  sign  of  joy,  he  will  answer:  "They  have  done 


■il:' 


I     , 

I      ; 

r 


»:: 


.1 


■mV 


m 


154 


huHan  life 


i'l        \ 


1   i     r. 


m^ 


1 1 


\:i   ^ 


U  \) 


well."  If  lie  be  informed  that  they  have  been  killed  or 
made  prisoners,  lie  will  utter  no  complaint,  but  will  simply 
say  :  •'  It  is  unfortunate."  He  will  make  no  inquiries  into 
the  circumstances  ;  several  days  must  elapse  before  he  asks 
for  further  information. 

The  Indian  is  endowed  with  extraordinary  sagacity,  and 
easily  learns  whatever  demands  attention.  Experience 
and  observation  render  him  conversant  with  things  that  are 
unknown  to  the  civilized  man.  Thus,  he  will  traverse  a 
plain  or  forest  one  or  two  hundred  miles  in  extent,  and 
will  arrive  at  a  particular  place  with  as  much  precision  as 
the  mariner  by  the  aid  of  the  compass.  Unless  prevented 
by  obstacles,  he,  without  any  material  deviation,  always 
travels  in  a  straight  line,  regardless  of  path  or  road.  In  the 
same  manner  he  will  point  out  the  exact  place  of  the  sun, 
when  it  is  hidden  by  mists  or  clouds.  Thus,  too,  he  fol- 
lows with  the  greatest  accuracy,  the  traces  of  men  or  ani- 
mals, though  these  should  have  passed  over  the  leaves  or 
the  grass,  and  nothing  be  perceptible  to  the  eye  of  the 
white  man.  He  acquires  this  knowledge  from  a  constant 
application  of  the  intellectual  faculties,  and  much  time 
and  experience  are  required  to  perfect  this  perceptive  qual- 
ity. Generally  speaking,  he  has  an  excellent  memory. — 
He  recollects  all  the  articles  that  have  been  concluded  upon 
in  their  councils  and  treaties,  and  the  exact  time  when 
such  councils  were  held  or  such  treaties  ratified. 

Some  writers  have  supposed  that  the  Indians  are  guided 
by  instinct,  and  have  even  ventured  to  assert  that  their 
children  would  find  their  way  through  the  forests  as  well 
as  those  further  advanced  in  age.  I  have  consulted  some 
of  the  most  intelligent  Indians  on  this  subject,  and  they 
have  uniforndy  told  me  that  they  acquire  this  practical 
knowledge  by  long  and  close  attention  to  the  growth  of 


and  character. 


155 


I. 


luided 
their 
well 

Isome 

I  the y 
:tical 
Ih  ot 


plants  and  trees  and  to  the  sun  and  stars.  It  is  known 
that  the  north  side  of  a  tree  is  covered  with  a  greater  qiian- 
iity  of  moss  than  any  other,  and  that  the  boughs  and  loliagc 
on  the  south  side  are  more  abundant  and  luxuriant.  Sim- 
iiar  observations  tend  to  direct  them,  and  I  have  more  than 
once  found  their  reflections  useful  to  myself  in  the  excur- 
sions I  have  made  through  the  forests.  Parents  teach 
their  children  to  remark  such  things,  and  these  in  their 
turn  sometimes  add  new  discoveries  to  those  of  their 
fathers.  They  measure  distances  by  a  day's  journey. 
When  an  Indian  travels  alone,  his  day's  journey  will  be 
about  50  or  60  English  miles,  but  only  15  or  20  when  he 
moves  with  the  camp.  They  divide  their  journeys,  as  we 
do  the  hours,  intu  halves  and  quarters ;  and  when  in  their 
councils  they  decide  on  war  or  on  distant  excursions,  they 
lay  off  these  journeys  with  astonishing  accuracy  on  a  kind 
of  map,  which  they  trace  on  bark  or  skins.  Though  they 
have  no  knowledge  of  geography,  nor  of  any  science  that 
relates  to  it,  yet  they  form  with  sufBcient  accuracy  maps  of 
the  countries  which  they  know  ;  nothing  but  the  degrees  of 
longitude  and  latitude  are  wanting  in  some  to  make  them 
exact. 

I  remember  to  have  read  in  Fr.  Charlevoix' journal  that 
the  Indians  are  remarkably  superstitious  with  respect  to 
dreams.  This  is  still  the  case,  though  they  interpret  them 
in  various  ways.  Some  maintain  that  during  sleep  the  ra- 
tional part  of  the  soul  travels  about,  whilst  the  sensitive 
continues  to  animate  the  body.  Others  say  that  the  good 
Manitoo  or  familiar  spirit  gives  salutary  advice  concerning 
the  future,  whilst  others  hold  that  in  sleep  the  soul  visits 
the  objects  about  which  she  dreams.  But  all  look  upon 
dreams  as  sacred,  and  as  the  ordinary  channels  through 
which   the  Great  Spirit  and    the  Manitoos  communicate 


is' 


■:'i'i 


u 


( 


1';; 


V 


M 
if  ?. 


hi  M 


H 


150 


The  If'ampum 


their  designs  to  man.  Imprefised  with  this  tJcn,  the  Indian 
is  at  a  loss  to  conceive  why  we  disregard  them.  Ab  they 
look  upon  dreams  as  re[)repcnlatiotis  of  the  desires  of  sume 
unearthly  genius,  or  of  the  commands  of  the  Great  Spirit, 
they  deem  tiiemselvcs  hound  to  observe  and  obey  them. 
Charlevoix  tells  us  somewhere,  and  I  have  seen  instances 
of  a  simihir  kind,  that  an  Indian  who  had  dreamed  that  he 
had  cut  oil' his  finger,  actually  cut  it,  and  prepared  himself 
for  the  act  by  a  fast.  Another  ha/ing  dreamed  that  he  was 
a  prisoner  among  a  hostile  nation,  not  knowing  how  to  act, 
consulted  the  jugglers,  and  according  to  their  decision,  had 
himsell  bound  to  a  slake,  and  fire  applied  to  several  parts  of 
his  body.  I  doubt  whether  the  quotation  is  correct,  as  1  have 
not  the  work  of  Charlevoix  to  consult,  but  I  know  that  I 
have  described  a  superstitious  belief  which  is  generally 
held  by  the  Indians  of  the  present  day. 

When  the  Pottowatomies  or  any  of  the  northern  nations 
make  or  renew  a  treaty  of  peace,  they  present  a  wampum, 
sash  or  collar.  The  wampum  is  made  of  a  shell  called 
baceinum,  and  shaped  into  small  beads  in  the  form  of  pearls. 
When  they  conclude  an  alliance,  offensive  or  defensive, 
with  other  tribes,  they  send  them  a  wampum,  sash  and 
tomahawk  dipped  in  blood,  inviting  them  to  come  and 
drink  of  the  blood  of  their  enemies.  This  figurative  ex- 
pression often  becomes  a  reality.  Among  the  nations  of 
the  West  the  calumet  is  looked  upon  with  equal  reverence, 
whether  in  peace  or  war.  They  smoke  the  calumet  to  con- 
firm their  treaties  and  alliances.  This  smoking  is  con- 
sidered a  solemn  engagement,  and  he  who  should  violate  it, 
would  be  deemed  unworthy  of  confidence,  infamous,  and 
an^object  of  divine  vengeance.  In  time  of  war,  the  calumet 
and  all  Its  ornaments  are  red.  Sometimes  it  is  partly  red, 
and  partly  of  some  other  color.     By  the  color  and  the  man- 


ami  Calumet. 


157 


ner  of  disposing  ilic  fcallirrs,  a  person  acquainted  with  their 
practices,  knows  at  first  sight  what  are  the  designs  or  inten- 
tions of  the  nation  that  presents  the  cahunct. 
^,^'i'hc  snjoi\in<f  of  the  cahunct  forms  a  part  of  all  their  reli- 
gions  ccremotues.  It  is  a  kind  of  sacred  rile  whicji  they 
perform  wlicn  ihcy  prepare  tliemsolvcs  to  invoke  tht;  (ireat 
Spirit,  and  take  the  sun  and  moon,  tlie  earth  and  the  water 
as  witnesses  of  the  sincerity  of  tlieir  intentions,  and  the 
fidelity  with  which  they  promise  to  comply  with  their  en- 
gagements. However  riihculoiis  this  custom  of  smoking 
may  appear  to  some,  it  has  a  good  ellect  among  the  Indians. 
Experience  has  taught  them  that  the  smoke  of  the  calumet 
dispels  the  vapors  of  the  brain,  aids  them  to  think  and 
judge  with  greater  accuracy  and  precision,  and  excites  their 
courage.  This  seems  to  be  the  principal  reason  why 
they  iiave  introduced  it  into  their  councils,  where  it  is 
looked  upon  as  the  seal  of  their  decisions.  It  is  also  sent 
as  a  pledge  of  fidelity  to  those  whom  they  wish  to  consult, 
or  with  whom  they  desire  to  form  an  alliance.  I  know 
that  the  opinions  of  the  Indians  concerning  the  beneficial 
effects  of  smoking  the  calumet  will  be  sanctioned  by  few 
persons,  because  it  is  demonstrated  from  experience  ihat 
the  smoke  of  tobacco  acts  as  a  powerful  narcotic  upon  the 
nervous  system,  and  produces  suporfic  and  debilitating  ef- 
fects ;  but  it  should  be  remembered  that  such  eflects  are  not 
produced  when  the  smoke  is  inhaled  into  the  lungs,  as  is  the 
universal  practice  of  the  Indians. 

The  funeral  ceremonies  of  the  Calkobins,  who  inhabit 
New  Caledonia,  west  of  the  mountains,  are  fantastic  and 
revolting.  Mr.  Cox,  in  his  journal,  tells  us  that  the  body 
of  the  deceased  is  exposed  in  his  lodge  for  nine  days, 
and  on  the  tenth  is  burned.  They  choose  for  this  pur- 
pose an  elevated  place,  and  there  erect  a  funeral  pile. — 

14 


^  1 ,  '• ' 


1''./  ■'ft 


h  i' 


f 

!i'- 


m  •  • 


rk 


I'li 


1 


Hi 
■I 


i 


'ii 


I 


6  i 


H 


!l 


158 


Barbarous  custom. 


In  the  meanwhile,  they  invite  their  neighbors  from  all 
sides,  entreating  them  to  repair  to  the  ceremony.  All  the 
preparations  being  completed,  the  corpse  is  placed  on  the 
pile,  which  they  lighLj  while  the  spectators  manifest  the 
greatest  joy.  All  that  the  deceased  possessed  is  placed 
around  the  body  ;  and  if  he  be  a  person  of  distinction,  his 
friends  purchase  for  him  a  cloak,  a  shirt,  and  a  pair  of 
breeches  :  these  are  laid  beside  him.  The  medicine  man 
must  be  present,  and,  for  the  last  time,  has  recourse  to  his 
enchantments,  to  recall  the  departed  to  life.  Not  succeed- 
ing, he  covers  the  dead  body — that  is,  he  makes  a  present 
of  a  piece  of  cloth,  or  leather,  and  thus  appeases  the  anger 
of  the  relatives,  and  escapes  the  vengeance  they  have  a 
right  to  inflict  upon  him.  During  the  nine  days  on  which 
the  corpse  is  exposed,  the  widow  is  obliged  to  remain  near 
it  from  the  rising  to  the  setting  of  the  sun;  and,  notwith- 
standing the  excessive  heals  of  summer,  no  relaxation  is 
allowed  from  this  barbarous  custom.  While  the  doctor  is 
occupied  in  his  last  operation,  the  widow  must  lie  down 
beside  the  corpse,  until  he  orders  her  to  withdraw  from  the 
pile  ;  and  this  order  is  not  given  until  the  unfortunate  being 
is  covered  with  blisters.  She  then  is  made  to  pass  and  re- 
pass her  hands  through  the  flames,  to  collect  the  fat,  which 
flows  from  the  body  :  with  this  she  rubs  her  person.  When 
the  friends  of  the  deceased  observe  that  the  sinews  of  the 
legs  and  arms  begin  to  contract,  they  force  the  miserable 
widow  to  return  to  the  pile,  and  straighten  the  limbs. 

If,  during  the  lifetime  of  th«  husband,  the  woman  had 
been  unfaithful  to  him,  or  had  neglected  to  provide  for  his 
wants,  his  relations  then  revenge  themselves  upon  her ; 
they  throw  her  upon  the  pile,  from  whence  she  is  dragged 
by  her  own  relations.  She  is  again  cast  upon  it,  and  again 
withdrawn,  until  she  falls  into  a  state  of  insensibility. 


Barbarous  mstom. 


159 


The  body  being  consumed,  the  widow  gathers  together 
the  largest  bones ;  these  she  encloses  in  a  birch  box,  which 
she  is  forced  to  carry  for  many  years.  She  is  looked  upon 
while  in  this  state  as  a  slave  ;  the  hardest  and  most  labori- 
ous work  falls  to  her  lot ;  she  must  obey  every  order  of  the 
women,  and  even  of  the  children;  and  the  least  disobe- 
dience or  repugnance  draws  down  upon  her  severe  chas- 
tisement. The  ashes  of  her  husband  are  deposited  in  a 
tomb,  and  it  is  her  duty  to  remove  from  thence  the  weeds. 
These  unhappy  women  frequently  destroy  themselves  to 
avoid  so  many  cruelties.  At  the  end  of  three  or  four  years 
the  relatives  agree  to  put  an  end  to  her  mourning.  They 
prepare  a  great  feast  for  this  occasion,  and  invite  all  the 
neighbors.  The  widow  is  then  introduced,  still  carrying 
the  bones  of  the  husband ;  these  are  taken  from  her,  and 
shut  up  in  a  coffin,  which  is  fastened  at  the  end  by  a  stake 
about  twelve  feet  long.  All  ihe  guests  extol  her  painful 
widowhood  ;  one  of  whom  pours  upon  her  head  a  vessel  of 
oil,  whilst  another  covers  her  with  down.  It  !=  only  after 
this  ceremony  that  the  widow  can  marry  again  ;  but,  as 
may  be  reaJily  supposed,  the  number  of  those  who  hazard 
a  second  marriage  is  very  small. 
I  have  the  honor  to  be 

Rev.  and  dear  Father  Provincial, 
Your  devoted  servant  and  son, 

P,  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


51"  »i 


'M 


i 


V 


\ 


4  > 


i  'J 


LETTER  XI L 


St.  Marie.  Dec.  30tl),  1841, 


Reverend  Father; 
I 


the  h; 


ill  of 


HAVE  given  you  tne  Happy  and  consoling  result  ol  my 
journey  in  November.  13efore  tlie  close  of  the  year  I  have 
yet  to  make  you  acquainted  willi  wiiat  has  passed  during 
my  absence,  and  since  my  return,  among  the  Flat  Heads; 
all  goes  to  prove  what  I  have  advanced  in  my  pieceding 
letters. 

The  Rev.  Fathers  Mengarini  and  Point  were  not  idle 
during  my  absence.  The  following  will  give  you  some 
idea  of  the  state  of  aflairs  on  my  return,  both  in  regard  to 
material  and  spiritual  matters,  as  well  as  the  practices  and 
usages  established,  which  could  not  but  tend  to  strengthen, 
more  and  more,  our  good  neophytes. 

The  plan  mentioned  in  my  letters,  and  unanimously  ap- 
proved, and  which  we  were  urged  to  carry  into  execution, 
was,  to  commence  with  what  appeared  to  be  the  most  ur- 
gent. We  enclosed  the  field  destined  to  liecome  God's 
portion  of  the  setdement.  We  started  the  buildings  in- 
tended to  be  hereafter  dependencies  of  the  farm,  but  serv- 
ing temporarily  for  a  church  and  residence,  on  account  of 
the  approach  of  winter,  and  our  wish  to  unite  the  whole 
colony.  These  works  were  indispensable,  and  were  carri- 
ed on  wiih  such  spirit  that  in  the  space  of  a  month  the  new 
buildings  could  shelter  from  four  to  five  hundred  souls. 

The  Flat  Heads,  assisting  us  with  their  whole  heart  and 


A  hurricane. 


161 


strength,  had,  in  a  short  time,  cut  from  two  to  three  thou- 
sand stakes ;  and  the  three  brothers,  with  no  other  tools 
than  the  axe,  saw  and  auger,  constructed  a  chapel  with  pe- 
diment, colonade  and  gallery,  balustrade,  choir,  seats,  &c. 
by  St.  Martin's  day;  when   they   assembled  in  the  little 
chapel  all  the  catechumens,  and  continued  the  instructions 
which  were  to  end  on  the  third  of  December,  the  day  fixed 
for  their  baptism.     In  the  inteival  between  these  two  re- 
markable epochs,   there  was,  on  each  day,  one  instruction 
more   than  usual.     This  last  instruction,  intended  chiefly 
for  grown  persons,  was  given  at  8  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
and  lasted  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter.     These  good  sa- 
vages, whose  ears  and  hearts  are  alike  open  when  the  word 
of  God  is  addressed  to  them,  appeared  still  bel'.er  disposed 
in  the  evening;  the  silence  being  unbroken  by  the  cri,:s  of 
infants  or  children.     Our  heavenly  Father  so   graciously 
heard  their  prayers,  that  on  St.  Francis  Xavier's  day  the 
good  Fathers  had  the  consolation  of  baptising  two  hundred 
and  two  adults. 

So  many  souls  wrested  from  the  demons  was  more  than 
enough  to  excite  their  rage, — seeds  of  distrust,  hindrances 
occasioned  by  the  best  intentioned,  the  fickness  of  the  in- 
ter:ireter  and  sexton,  at  the  very  momeru  lueir  assistance 
was  most  required  ;  a  kind  of  huTicant ,  v.  hiu'n  'ook  place 
the  evening  before  the  baptism,  au  i  whioh  ove  Urrhed  three 
lodges  in  the  camp,  the  trees  toir  from  their  :iot8,  and 
every  thing  in  appearance  about  to  be  uprooted,  even  to 
the  foundations  of  the  church — tlie  organ  unintentionally 
broken  by  the  savages,  on  the  eve  o'  being  applied  to  so 
beautiful  a  purpose — all  seemed  to  conspire  against  them  ; 
but  the  day  for  baptism  arrives,  and  every  cloud  disap- 
pears. 
The  Fathers  had  intended  to  solemnize  the  marriiges  of 

14* 


11 


f  1% 


ii 


n>fi 


h  riJ 


162 


Marriage  riles 


ihe  husbands  and  wives  on  the  same  day  as  their  haplism. 
They  liad  even  announced  that  the  ceremony  would  lake 
place  after  baptism;  but  the  sacred  rite  having  occupied  a 
much  longer  time  than  they  supposed,  on  account  of  the 
necessity  of  interpreting  all  that  was  said,  they  were  obli- 
ged to  defer  this  sacrament  until  the  next  day,  trusting  lo 
God  and  the  new  Christians,  for  the  preservation  of  their 
baptismal  innocence. 

As  our  former  Missionaries  have  left  nothing  in    writing 
on  the    conduct    we   should  observe  with  regard  to  mar- 
riage, it  may,  perhaps,  be   useful   to  relate  here  what  has 
been  our  course,  in  order  that  our  conduct  may  be  rectified 
if  it  has  not  been  judicious. 

We  hold  the  ■  cinciple,  that,   generally  speaking,   there 
are  no  valid  marriages  amonff  the  savages  of  these  countries: 
and  fur  this  reason;  we  have  not  found  ono,  even  among  the 
best  disposed,  who,  after  marri;ige  had  been  contracted  in 
iheirown  fashion,  did  not  believe  himself  justified  in  send- 
ing away  his  first  wife,    whenever  he  thought  tit,  and  tak- 
ing another.     Many  even  have  several  wives  in  the  same 
lodge.     It  is,  however,  true,  that  many  when  entering  the 
HK'-riage  slate,   promise  that  nothing   but  death    will  ever 
separate  them  ;  that  they  will  never  give  their  liand  to  ano- 
ther.    But  what  impassioned  man  or  woman  has  not  said 
as  much?     Can   we    infer  froni  this    that  the  contract  is 
valid,  when  it  is  universally  received,  that  even   after  such 
promises  they  have  not  the  less  right  to  do  as  they  please, 
when  they  become  disgusted    with  each  other  ?     We  are 
then  agreed  on  this  principle,  that  among  them,  even  to  the 
present  time,  there  has  been  no  marriage,  because  they  have 
never  known  well  in  what  its  essence  and  obligation  con- 
sisted.    To  adopt  an  opposite  view  would  be  to  involve 
oneself  in  a  labyrinth  of  difiiculties,  from  which  it  would  be 


and  ceremonies. 


103 


ever 
ano- 
t  said 
ract  is 
such 
lease, 
e  are 
to  the 
have 
con- 
volve 
lid  be 


I 


very  difficult  (a> escape.  Thit  was,  if  I  am  not  mistaken, 
the  conduct  ot  Si.  Francis  Xavier  in  the  Indies,  since  it  is 
said  in  his  Life,  that  he  praised  hefare  the  married  those 
whom  he  supposed  to  be  dearest  to  tliem,  that  they  might 
be  more  easily  iuduced  to  ketjp  to  one  alone.  Secondly, 
supposing  then  that  there  were  material  faults  in  their  mar- 
riages, the  necersity  of  a  renewal  was  not  spoken  of  but  for 
the  time  which  followed  baptism,  and  this  took  place  *.lie 
day  following  that  happy  occasion. 

After  the  Fathers  had  gained  the  necessary   information 
respeciaig  the  degrees  oi    relationship,  and  had  given    the 
necessary  dispensations,  ihe  marriage  ceremony,  preceded 
by  a  short  instruction,    was   performed,   anil   coiiiribuled 
greatly  to  give  the  people  a  high  idea  oi  our  holy  religion. 

The    twenty-four    marriages  then  contracted   presented 
that  mixture  of  simplicity,  of  respectful  aflection,  and   pro- 
found joy,  which  are  the  sure  indications  of  a  good  con- 
science.    Tliete   were  among  the   couples,  good  old  men 
and  women;  but  \heir  presence  only  rendered  the  ceremo- 
ny more  respectable  in  the  eyes  ol    those  assembled  ;   for 
among  the  Flat  Heads  all  that  relates  to  religion  is  sacred  ; 
unhappy  he  who  would  so  express  himself  before  them,  as 
to  lead    tliem  to  believe  that  iie  thouglit  otherwise.     They 
left  the  chapel,  their  hearts   filled  with  sentiments    purified 
by  that  grace  which  constitutes  the  charm  of  every  state  of 
life,  and  especially  of  those  in  wedlock. 

The  only  thing  that  appeared  strange  to  them  was,  when 
the  Fathers  spoke  of  taking  the  names  of  witnesses  ;  but 
when  they  were  told  that  this  was  only  done  because  the 
church  so  ordained,  to  give  more  authority  and  dignity  to 
the  marriage  contract,  they  no  longer  saw  in  it  any  thing 
but  what  was  reasonable,  and  the  question  was,  who  should 
be  wiiness  for  the  others  ? 


Hi, 


PI   \ 


' 


164 


M 


vm 


'1^- 


'  It 


||  1 


M 

fi 

i| 

.„    ? 

1 

Il 

)•      If 

»  1 

• :.  .     1!  fi 

^1 

! :  » • 

■t: 

i; 


m  1 


Baptism. 


The  same  astonishment  was  manifested  with  regard  to 
god-fathers.  The  interpreter  had  translated  the  word  god- 
father, a  term  which  is  not  in  their  language,  by  second  fa- 
ther. The  poor  savages  not  knowing  what  this  meant,  or 
what  consequences  this  title  would  imply,  were  not  eager 
to  make  a  choice.  To  be  a  god-father  moreover  offered  no 
great  attraction.  As  soon  as  we  made  them  understand  it, 
their  difHculties  vanished,  and  the  more  easily ;  for  not  to 
muUiply  spiritual  affinities,  a  god-father  only  was  given  to 
the  men,  and  a  god-mother  to  the  women ;  and  as  to  the 
obligations  attached  to  the  honour  of  being  sponsors,  they 
were  much  less  here  than  elsewhere,  the  Black  Gowns  pro- 
mising to  take  upon  themselves  the  .greatest  pa*-!  of  the  bur- 
den. For  the  first  baptisms  our  choice  of  sponsors  was 
very  limited ;  only  thirteen  grown  persons  were  qualified 
to  act  in  this  capacity, — but  the  most  aged  persons  being 
baptised  before  the  otherti,  they,  without  laying  aside  the 
lighted  candle,  (the  symbol  of  faith)  were  chosen  for  the 
second  division;  and  so  in  like  manner  with  the  rest. 

The  day  preceding  the  baptism,  the  Fathers,  on  account 
of  their  labors,  were  only  able  to  collect  the  colony  twice ; 
besides,  F.  Mengarini  was  indisposed.  In  the  evening, 
however,  he  assembled  the  people,  and  great  was  their  as- 
tonishment on  beholding  the  decorations  of  the  chapel. 
Some  jays  previously  the  Fathers  had  engaged  all  who 
were  willing,  to  make  matts  of  rushes  oi  straws.  All  the 
Wi/men,  girls  and  children,  assembled  eagerly  for  this  good 
work,  so  that  they  had  enough  to  cover  the  floor  and  ceil- 
ing, and  hang  lou  id  the  wall?.  These  matts,  ornamented 
wiih  festoons  of  green,  made  a  pretty  dxapery  around  the 
altar.  On  a  canopy  was  inscribed  the  holy  name  of  Jesus. 
Among  the  ornaments  they  placed  a  picture  of  the  Blessed 
Virgin  over  the  tabernacle  ;  on  the  door  of  the  iabernacle  a 


hi 

b 
oj 

d 

el 


Method  of  instruction. 


!G5 


representation  of  tlie  heart  of  Jesus.  The  piclnres  of  the 
way  of  the  Cross,  in  red  frames ;  the  lights,  the  silence  of 
night,  the  approach  of  ihe  important  day,  the  calm  after  the 
hurricane,  which  had  burst  on  them  only  a  few  moments 
before — all  these  circumstances  united,  had,  with  the  grace 
of  God,  so  well  disposed  the  minds  and  hearts  of  our  In- 
dians, that  it  would  have  been  scarcely  possible  lo  lind  on 
earth  an  assembly  of  savages  more  resembling  a  com- 
pany of  saints.  This  was  the  beautiful  bouquet  which 
the  Fathers  were  permitted  to  present  to  Saint  Francis  Xa- 
vier.  The  next  day  they  were  enn^nged  from  eight  o'clock 
in  the  morning  until  half  past  ten  at  night,  in  the  church, 
excepting  only  one  hour  and  a  half,  which  iliey  gave  to  re- 
pose. The  following  was  ilie  order  followed.  First,  they 
baptized  the  chiefs  and  married  men.  These  were  chosen 
as  godfathers  for  the  vounir  men  and  little  boys;  then  the 
married  women,  whose  husbands  were  living  with  them  ; 
afterwards  the  widows  and  wives  who  had  been  cast  off; 
and,  lasdy,  the  young  women  and  girls. 

It  was  graiifying  to  hear  with  wh-st  intelligence  these 
good  savages  replied  to  all  the  questions  addressed  to  them, 
and  to  see  them  praying  at  the  moment  of  receiving  bap- 
tism. At  the  end,  each  received  a  taper  whose  blended 
light  beautifully  illuminated  our  humble  chapel. 

IJut  let  us  come  to  something  still  more  edifying.  I 
shall  not  speak  of  their  assiduous  attendance  at  the  instruc- 
tions,— of  their  eagerness  to  hear  our  words, — of  the  evi- 
dent profit  they  received  from  them  ;  all  this  is  common  in 
the  course  of  a  mission;  but  rarely  do  we  witness  ihe  he- 
roic sacritices  which  these  Indians  have  made.  Many, 
who  liad  two  wives,  have  retained  her  whose  children 
were  most  numerous,  at:d  with  all  possible  respect  dis- 
missed the  otlier.     One  evening,  a  savage  came  to  seek  the 


[.   ^1 


166 


Distribution  of 


n 


Fathers  st  the  lodge,  which  was  filled  with  Indians,  and 
unabashed  by  any  merely  human  consideration,  asked 
what  lie  should  do  in  his  present  circumstances!  On  the 
instant  he  acted  according  to  the  instructions  given  him  ;  he 
dismissed  his  youngest  wife,  giving  her  what  he  would 
have  wished  another  to  give  to  his  sister,  if  in  the  same 
situation,  and  was  re-united  to  his  first  wife,  whom  he  had 
forsaken.  After  an  instruction,  a  young  woman,  asking  to 
speak,  said  that  '« she  desired  very  much  to  receive  bap- 
tism, but  that  she  had  been  so  wicked  she  dared  not  make 
the  request."  Each  one  would  have  made  a  public  con- 
fession. A  great  number  of  young  mothers,  married  ac- 
cording to  the  mode  of  the  savages,  but  abandoned  by  their 
husbands,  who  were  of  some  other  tribe,  renounced  them 
most  willingly,  to  have  the  happiness  of  being  baptised. 

The  ordinary  regulations  observed  in  the  village  are  as 
follows  :  when  the  Angelus  rings,  the  Indians  rise  from 
sleep  ;  half  an  hour  after,  the  morning  prayers  are  said  in 
common  ;  all  assist  at  Mass  and  at  the  instruction.  A 
second  instruction  is  given  at  evening,  towards  sun  set, 
and  lasts  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  At  two  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon  we  have  the  regular  catechism  for  the  chil- 
dren, at  which  grown  persons  may  assist  if  they  think 
proper.  The  children  are  formed  into  two  divisions  :  the 
first  is  composed  exclusively  of  those  who  know  the  first 
prayers  ;  the  second  of  the  smaller  children.  One  of  the 
Fathers  each  morning  visits  the  sick,  to  furnish  them  with 
medicines,  and  give  them  such  assistance  as  their  wants 
may  require. 

We  have  adopted  the  system  of  instruction  and  bestowing 
rewards,  in  usage  in  the  schools  of  the  brothers  of  the  chris- 
tian doctrine.  During  catechism,  which  lasts  about  an 
hour,   we  have  recitations  and  explanations,  intermingled 


Jiewards  of  merit. 


167 


«».. 


with  canticles.     Every  day,  for  each  good  answer,  tickets 
of  approbation  are  given ;  one  or  more,  according  to  tiie 
dilllcully  of  the  question  proposed.    Experience  lias  proved 
that  these  licUets  given  at  once,  are  less  embarrassing  than 
when  we    mark  tiieir  names  on  a  list;   the   former  plan 
takes  less  time,  and  interests  the  children  more,  rendering 
them,  besides,  more  assiduous  and  careful.     These  tickets 
serve,  at  the  same  time,  as  certilicatcs  of  attendance  at  cate- 
chism, and  as  tokens  of  intelligence  and  good  will,  they 
please  the  parent  not  less  than  their  children.     The  former 
are  incited  to  make  their  children  repeat  what  has  been  said 
at  catechism,  to  render  them  capable  of  answering  better  the 
following  day ;  and  also  with  a  desire  of  improving  them- 
selves.    The  wish  to  see  their  children  distinguish  them- 
selves, has  attracted  almost  the  whole  colony  to  catechism  ; 
none  of  the  chiefs  who  have  children  fail  to  be  there  ;  and 
there  is  not  less  emulation  among  the  parents  than  among 
the  children  themselves.     A  still  greater  value  is  attached 
to  the  tickets,  from  the  exactitude  and  justice  with  which 
the  deserving  are  rewarded.  They  who  have  obtained  good 
tickets  during  the  week,   are  rewarded  on  Sunday  with 
crosses,  medals,  or  ribbons,  publicly  distributed.     On  the 
first  Sunday  of  every  month  they  distribute  to  those  who 
have  received  the  most  good  tickets  in  the  course  of  the 
month,  medals  or  pictures,  which  become  their  private  pro- 
perty.    These  pictures,    preserved   with    care,   are  great 
stimulants,  not  only  to  the  study  of  their  catechism  but  also 
to  the  practice  of  piety.     They  are  monuments  of  victory, 
examples  of  virtue,  exhortations  to  piety,  and  models  of 
perfection.     Their  rarity,  and  the  efforts  necessary  to  ob- 
tain them,  also  enhance  their  worth.     As  we  desire  to  in- 
spire the  savages,  who  are  naturally  inclined  to  idleness, 
with  a  love  for  work,  it  has  been  judged  suitable  to  reward 


t  * . 


[ft 


IG8 


Chrisbiias. 


t^ 


llieir  litilc  ciTorts  in  tlio  same  manner  as  \vc  recompense 
their  improvement  in,  and  knowledge  of  their  catechism. 

To  maintain  order,  and  promote  emulation  among  them, 
the  calcchisnj  children  are  divided  into  seven  or  ci^lil  sec- 
lions,  of  six  each  ;  the  boys  on  one  side,  i' o  girls  on  the 
other.  At  the  liead  of  each  section  there  is  a  chief,  who 
must  assist  the  children  placed  under  him  to  learn  ihcir 
catechism  ;  that  thus  every  child  may  indulge  the  hope  of 
meriting  a  reward  at  the  end  of  the  week  or  month.  Tliey 
are  so  divided  that  the  conipctitois,  to  the  number  of  live  or 
six  in  each  section,  may  be  of  nearly  equal  capacity. 

Father  Point,  who  was,  immediately  after  Christmas, 
to  accompany  the  assembled  camps  of  Flat  Heads,  Penda- 
d'oreilles,  Nez-perccs,  <fcc.  prepared  for  his  new  campaign 
by  a  retreat  of  eiglit  days.  Twenty-four  marriages,  as  I 
have  already  said,  had  been  celebrated  during  my  absence, 
and  two  hundred  and  two  adults,  with  little  boys  and  giiis 
from  eight  to  fourteen  years  of  age,  had  been  baptised. 
There  were  still,  thirty-four  couples,  who  awaited  my  re- 
turn, to  receive  the  sacraments  of  bapti.sm  and  marriage,  or 
to  renew  tlieir  marriage  vows.  The  Nez-perccs  had  not 
yet  presented  their  children  ("or  baptism.  There  was  an  old 
chief  of  the  Black  Feet  nation,  in  the  camp,  with  his  son 
and  his  little  family,  five  in  all,  who  had  been  hitherto  very 
assiduous  in  their  attendance  at  prayers  and  catechism. 
The  day  succeeding  my  arrival  I  commenced  giving  three 
instructions  daily,  besides  the  catechism,  which  was  taught 
by  the  other  Fathers.  They  profited  so  well,  that  with  the 
grace  of  Ood,  a  hundred  and  fifteen  Flat  Heads,  with  three 
chiefs  at  their  head,  thirty  Ne?  perces  with  their  chief,  and 
the  Black  Foot  chief  and  his  family,  presented  themselves 
at  the  baptismal  font  on  Christmas  day.  I  began  my  Masses 
at  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning;  at  five  o'clock,  P.  M.  I 


«, 


Preparation  for  Communion. 


169 


,ve  recompense 
ir  calccliism. 
n  amonjj  tliem, 
in  or  ci^hl  sec- 
\yQ  girls  <m  the 
s  a  chief,  who 
I  to  learn  ihcir 
;c  the  hope  of 
month.     Tiiey 
imbcr  of  live  or 
lapacity. 
icr    Christmas, 
Heads,  Penda- 
new  campaign 
narriages,  as  I 
ig  my  absence, 
boys  and  giils 
been  baptised, 
jwailcd  my  re- 
el marriage,  or 
ercGs   had  not 
ere  was  an  old 
with  his  son 
litherto  very 
id    catechism. 
1  giving  three 
ch  was  taught 
that  with  the 
s,  with  three 
eir  chief,  and 
d  themselves 
n  my  Masses 
ck,  P.  M.  I 


still  found  myself  in  the  chapel :  'I'he  heart  can  conceive, 
but  the  tongue  caimot  express  the  emotions  which  such 
a  consoling  spectacle  may  well  awaken.  The  following 
day  I  celebrated  a  solemn  IVIass  of  'I'liaiiksgiving  for  the 
signal  favour**  with  which  our  Lord  had  deigned  to  visit  his 
people.  From  six  to  seven  hundred  new  Christians,  with 
bands  of  little  children,  baptised  in  the  past  year, — all  as- 
sembled in  a  poor  little  chapel,  covered  with  rushes — in  the 
midst  of  a  desert,  where  but  lately,  the  name  of  God  was 
scarcely  known ;  olVering  to  the  Creator  their  regenerated 
hearts,  protesting  that  they  would  -severe  in  His  holy 
service  even  to  death,  was  an  olVci  ,  without  doubt,  most 
agreeable  to  God,  and  which,  we  trust,  will  draw  down 
the  dews  of  heaven  upon  the  llat  Head  nation  and  the 
neighbouring  tribes. 

On  the  '29ih  the  large  camp,  accompanied  by  the  Fathers, 
left  us  for  the  great  bufl'alo  hunt,  and  joined  the  Pends« 
d'oreilles,  who  awaited  them  at  two  day's  journey  hence; 
there  will  be  above  two  hundred  lodges.  I  am  filled  with 
hope  for  the  success  and  fresh  victories,  with  which,  I  trust, 
God  will  deign  to  reward  the  zeal  of  his  servant.  In  the 
mean  time  we  occupy  ourselves  (Father  Mengarini  and 
myself)  in  translating  the  cathechism  into  the  Flat  Head 
tongue ;  and  in  preparing  one  hundred  and  fifty  persons  for 
their  first  communion. 

Our  good  brothers  and  the  Canadians  are  engaged  at  the 
same  time  in  erecting  around  our  establishment  a  strong  pal- 
lisade,  fortified  with  bastions,  to  shelter  us  from  the  incur- 
sions of  the  Black  Feet,  whom  we  daily  expect  to  visit  us. 
Our  confidence  in  God  is  not  weakened;  we  take  the  pre- 
cautions which  prudence  dictates,  and  remain  without  fear 
at  our  post. 

A  young  Sinpoil  has  just  arrived  in  our  camp  ,  and  these 

15 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


"I.'- 


I 

j 


if' 


I  w 


170 


Bequest  of  the  Sinpoils. 


are  his  words :  **  I  am  a  Sinpoil,  my  nation  is  compassion- 
ate. I  have  been  sent  to  hear  your  words,  and  learn  the 
prayer  you  teach  the  Fiat  Heads.  The  Sinpoils  desire  also 
to  know  it,  and  to  imitate  their  example."  This  young 
man  proposes  to  pass  the  winter  in  our  camp,  and  return  in 
the  spring  to  his  own  nation,  to  sow  among  them  the  seeds 
of  the  gospel. 

The  whole  Flat  Head  nation  converted — four  hundred 
Kalispels  baptised — eighty  Nez-perces,  several  Coeurs- 
d'aliene,  many  Kocetenays,  Black  Feet,  Serpents  and  Ba- 
nacs, — the  Sinpoils,  the  Chaudieres,  who  open  their  arms 
to  us,  and  eagerly  ask  for  Fathers  to  instruct  them  ;  the 
earnest  demands  from  Fort  Vancouver  on  the  part  of  the 
Governor,  and  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Blanchette,  assuring  us  of 
the  good  desires  and  dispositions  of  a  great  number  of  na- 
tions, ready  to  receive  the  gospel, — in  a  word,  a  vast  coun- 
try, which  only  awaits  the  arrival  of  true  ministers  of  God, 
to  rally  round  the  standard  of  the  Cro^is — behold  the  beau- 
tiful bouquet.  Rev.  Father,  which  we  have  the  happiness  of 
presenting  you  at  the  close  of  1841.  It  is  at  the  foot  of  the 
crucifix  that  you  are  accustomed  to  ask  counsel  of  heaven 
for  the  welfare  of  the  nations  entrusted  to  your  children. 
Our  number  is  very  far  from  sufHcient  for  the  pressing  and 
real  wants  of  this  people.  The  Protestants  are  on  the  qui 
vive.  Send  us  then  some  Fathers  and  Brothers  to  assist  us, 
and  thousands  of  souls  will  bless  you  at  the  throne  of  God 
for  all  eternity. 

Recommending  myself  to  your  holy  prayers, 

I  have  the  honour  to  be,  witi;  the  most  profound 
respect  and  esteem. 

Rev.  Father,  Yours,  &c. 

P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


ipassion- 
earn  the 
?sire  also 
s  young 
return  in 
ihe  seeds 


,i|i 


hundred 
Coeurs- 
and  Ba- 
eir  arms 
em  ;  the 
I  of  the 
ng  us  of 
ir  of  na- 
si coun- 
of  God, 
he  beau- 
)ine88of 
)t  of  the 
heaven 
hildren. 
ing  and 
the  qui 
ssistus, 
of  God 


BOOK    II. 


\'. 


ound 


S.  J. 


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n: 


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^  Ucav'i.'  ^xc5i^cmT  amoiu)  tl]c  ifiiiiiau  •XiibcG 

OF    THE 

ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


IMadison  Forks,  lytli  August,  1812. 
Rev.  and  dear  Fallier  : 

After   a  journey  of  four  months  and  a  half  across  an 
ocean  of  prairies   and  mountains,    where    we   met  many 
an  obstacle,  we  arrived  this  day  a  year  ago,  under  the  aus- 
pices of  the  Queen  of  Heaven,  at  one  of  the  Forts  of  the 
honorable  company  of    Hudson  Bay,    called   Fort   Hall. 
Mr.  Ermantiger,   the  estimable  commander  of  this  Fort, 
received   us  in  the  most  friendly  manner,  and  loaded  us 
with  favours.     At  this  place  we  found  the  vanguard  of  our 
dear  neophytes  awaiting  us.     How  joyful  and  happy  was 
this  meeting.     What  had  they  not  done  to  obtain  Black 
Gowns  to  visit  them?     Four  times  had  their  deputations 
crossed  the  Western  desert — eight  of  their  people  had  pe- 
rished on  the  road,  three  from  sickness,  and  five  fell  victims 
to  the  Scioux  tribe.     Twice  from  the  Bitter   Root  river 
almost  all  their  people   iiad  transported   themselves  to  the 
Green  river,  a  distance  of  more  than  five  hundred  miles 
from  their  usual  encampment.     In  fine,   those  who  then 
joined  us  had  at  the  first  news  of  our  approach  again  tra- 
versed the  half  of  that  space  to  meet  us ;  nor  could  they,  on 

15* 


i 


'if 


^iiM 


I:) 


f 

t 
i; 

-i  II: 


y^ 


;-^f 


p 


i .  j 


174 


Narrative  of 


first  seeing  us,  express  their  feelings  but  by  ilieir  silence. 
Very  soon,  however,  they  gave  vent  to  the  grateful  senti- 
ments of  their  hearts,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  astonish  us. 
"  I  am  very  ignorant  and   wicked,"  exclaimed  the  chief 
Wisteipo  to  his  companions,  •'  nevertheless  I  am  grateful 
to  the  Gieat  Spirit  for  all  he  has  done  for  us."     Detailing 
all  the  benefits  he  had  received  he  terminated  his  discourse 
in  the  following  manner  :  ••  Yes,  my  dear  friends,  my  heart 
is  filled  with  contentment,  notwithstanding  its  wickedness. 
I  do  not  despair  of  the  goodness  of  God,  I  only  wish  for 
life  to  employ  it  in  prayer;  never  will  1  give  up  praying; 
I  will  continue  to  pray  until  my  death,  and  when  that  hour 
comes  I  will  throw  myself  into  the  arms  of  the  Master  of 
Life.    If  it  be  His  will  that  I  should  be  lost  I  will  submit  to 
his  decree.     Should   he  wish  to  save  me  I  will  bless   him 
forever.     Once  more  I  repeat,  my  heart  is  happy.     What 
can  we  do  to  prove  to  our  Fathers  that  we  love  them." — 
Here  the  chief  made  some  practical  reflections. 

They  informed  us  that  since  I  left  them  in  1840  their 
brothers  had  always  remained  in  the  same  dispositions  ; 
that  according  to  the  plan  I  had  laid  out  fur  them,  all  the 
people  met  twice  every  day,  and  three  times  on  Sundays, 
to  recite  in  common  the  prayers  1  had  taught  them.  They 
also  told  us  that  the  chest  containing  the  sacred  ornaments 
and  vases,  which  we  had  left  in  their  charge,  was  carried 
about  as  the  ark  of  salvation,  wherever  they  went;  thatfive 
or  six  children,  dying  after  having  received  the  sacrament 
of  baptism,  had  taken  their  flight  to  heaven  ;  that  a  young 
warrior,  the  day  after  his  baptism,  had  died  from  the  efl^ects 
of  a  wound,  which,  without  the  aid  of  a  miracle,  would 
have  carried  him  oflf  long  before;  and  finally,  that  a  young 
child,  finding  herself  at  the  point  of  death,  solicited  bap- 
tism with  the  greatest  earnestness,  and  after  having  receiv- 


4  ,[ 


iir  silence, 
icful  senti* 
itonish  us. 

the  cliief 
n  grateful 

Detailing 
discourse 

my  heart 
ckedness. 

wish  for 
praying ; 
tiiat  hour 
faster  of 
submit  to 
less  him 
.  What 
hem."— 

40  their 

silions  ; 

all  the 

undays, 

'I'hey 

aments 

carried 

hat  five 

rament 

young 

effects 

would 

young 

d  bap- 

eceiv- 


a    Vcar's  Pcsidence. 


175 


ed  this  favour  from  llio  hands  of  l*cler,  an  Iroquois,  she 
repealed  three  times  to  the  witnesses  of  her  happiness: 
•'  pray  fur  mo — pray  for  mc — pray  for  me  ;"  then  she  pray- 
ed herself  and  sang  canliclos  with  a  stronger  voice  than 
any  of  the  others,  and  npmi  drawing  her  last  breath,  she 
exclaimed,  pointing  towards  heaven:  "Oh!  what  a  beau- 
tiful sight!  I  behold  Mary,  my  mother,  happiness  does  not 
belonjj  to  earth,  in  heaven  alone  must  you  seek  it.  Listen 
to  what  the  Uhiolc  Gowns  tell  you,  because  they  profess 
the  truth;"  and  immediately  afterwards  expired. 

We  left  Fort  Hall  on  the  19ih  of  the  month,  conducted 
by  our  new  guides,  who  were  not  long  in  giving  us  striking 
proof  of  their  devotion  towards  us.  At  the  crossing  of  a 
very  rapid  liver,  called  the  Lewis'  Fork  or  Snake  River, 
from  the  savages  who  people  its  I  orders,  one  of  our  bro- 
thers, not  being  al)le  to  guitle  t'le  mules  of  his  cart,  was 
dragged  into  a  plane  so  deep  that  his  whole  equipage  was 
plunged  uniler  the  water ;  immediately  the  good  savages 
threw  themselves  into  the  river,  raised  the  cart  out  of  the 
water,  employed  their  hands  and  feet  so  usefully,  that  only 
three  mules  were  drowned  and  some  bags  of  provisions  lost. 

The  29ih  we  met  near  the  source  of  the  Missouri,  called 
the  Beaver  Head,  a  detachment  of  Flat  Heat  ,  having  as 
their  leader  Ensyla,  called  the  Little  Chief,  who  has  since 
received  in  baptism  the  name  of  Michael,  on  account  of  his 
fidelity  and  courage.  A  few  days  previous,  a  party  of  In- 
dians having  been  discovered  on  the  adjacent  heights,  a  cry 
was  raised  of  "  the  Black  Feet !  the  Black  Feet !"  In- 
stantly the  little  camp  put  itself  on  the  defensive.  Two  of 
the  bravest  Flat  Meads,  lifting  up  their  muskets  in  the  air^ 
started  off  at  full  gallop  to  reconnoitre  the  enemy.  Already 
they  had  disappeared  from  our  view,  leaving  us  somewhat 
anxious,  but  they  soon  returned,  at  the  head  of  about  tea 


i  I 


'  "1 


•  !« 


m. 


I 


m 


I        I 


\\ 


if.     '1 


^n 


If 


1    ! 

I] 


170 


Xarrutive  of 


strangers.     They  were  not  the  Black  Feet,  but  a  parly  of 
the  Bunae   tribe,  a  specirs  ol  men  liulf  inimical  and  half 
friendly  to  the  Flat  Heads,  who  for  that  very  reason,  as  we 
shall  see  later,  were  more  to  he  feared  than  open  enemies. 
When  Michael  joined  us,  the  cump  of  these  people  was  al- 
ready united  with  ours.     'J'heir  chief  and   Michael  knew 
each  other  but  too  well,  from  iiaving  once  been  engaged  in 
aa  afVair  in  which  Michael,  fiiiding  himself  shamefully  be- 
trayed and  attacked  by  a  whole   IJaiiac  village,  had  only 
been  al)le  to  save  himself  and   six  men,  who  accompanied 
him,  by  killing  the  brother  of  the  Hanac  chief,  with  eight 
of  his  people.     They  nevertheless  sliook  hahds  with  each 
other,  and  separated  the  next  day,  without  appearing  to  en- 
tertain any  unpltjusant  recollections.     1  iiad  a  conversation 
with  the  IJanac  chief  on  the  subject  of  prayer,     lie  listened 
attentively  to  what  I  told  him,  and  promised  to  do  amongst 
his  peoj)le  what  the  Flat  Heads  did  amongst  theirs.     The 
30th,   after  iiaving   wound    through  a   mountain   pass,  to 
wlncii  we  gave  the  name  of  the  Fathers'  Defile,  we  ad- 
vanced as  far  as  a  large   plain,  on   the  western  verge  of 
which  the  Fiat  Meads  were  encamped.     As  we  drew  near, 
runners    approached    us    constantly.     Already,      Stietliet 
Loodzo,  surnauicd   the  bravest   of  the  brave,  and  distin- 
guished from  the  others  by  a  large  red  ribbon,  had  present- 
ed himself.     Soon  after,  we  perceived  at  a  distance  another 
savage,  of  tall  stature,  hastening  towards  us    with    rapid 
.«trides.     At   the    same    time,    many    cried  out — "Paul," 
•'Paul;"  and  indeed  it  was  Paul,  surnamed  "Big  Face," 
the  great  chief  of  the  nation  ;  Paul,  who,  owing  to  his  vir- 
tue  and  his  great  age,  had  been  baptized  the  preceding 
year — Paul,  whom  they  thought  absent,  but  who  had  just 
arrived,  as  though  by  God's  special  permission,  that  he 
might  have  the  satisfaction  of  presenting  us  himself  to  his 


a   Vcar^s  lieaidencc. 


177 


a  party  of 
and  half 
on,  as  wc 
eiicniies. 
le  was  al- 
ael  knew 
ngaged  in 
efiilly  be- 
liad  only 
ompanied 
villi  eight 
with  each 
ing  to  en- 
iversation 
e  listened 
)  amongst 
irs.     The 
I  pass,  to 
,  we  ad- 
verge  of 
ew  near, 
Stiettiet 
d  distin- 
present- 
3  another 
h    rapid 
"Paul," 
Face," 
his  vir- 
eceding 
ad  just 
that  he 
If  to  his 


people.  Al  sun-sol  wo  were  in  the  midst  of  a  most  aflect- 
ing  scone.  'I'hc  .Missonarics  were  surrounded  by  their 
neophytes — men,  women,  younjr  people,  and  children  in 
their  nioihiTs'  arms,  all  anxious  to  be  among  llio  first  to 
shake  iiands  with  us.  l!^vcry  heart  was  inuvcd.  That 
evening  was  certainly  beautilul.  On  the  least  of  the  holy 
name  of  Mary,  the  whole  camp  renewed  the  consecra- 
tion of  lli(;ms.elvcs  to  their  future  Patroness,  which  had 
been  previously  made  by  the  vanguard  of  the  first  setlle- 
mcnt. 

About  iho  lime  the  Church  celebrates  the  feast  of  Mary's 
pure  heart,  it  seemed  as  though  the  God  of  the  Christians 
wished  to  give  to  her  new  cliililrcn  the  consolation  of  see- 
ing the  principal  eras  in  their  lives  coincide,  and  in  some 
manner  be<!oine  identified  wilh  those  happy  days  consecra- 
ted especially  to  her  honor.  It  was  on  the  feast  which  the 
Church  celebrates  in  memory  of  her  triumph,  thai  we  first 
met  wilh  the  Flat  Heads;  it  will  be  on  the  24lh  of  Septem- 
ber, also  one  of  the  festivals,  that  we  shall  arrive  on  the  bor- 
ders of  our  little  Paraguay,  and  on  the  feast  of  the  Holy 
Uosary  we  shall  select  a  beautiful  spol  for  our  first  settle- 
ment, and  call  it  by  the  holy  name  of  Mary.  It  is  again 
remarkable  that  the  nomination  took  place  on  another  feast 
called  the  Patrocinium,  or  Patronage  of  the  Blessed  Vir- 
gin ;  and  ihus,  Mary,  chosen  patroness  of  the  settlement,  was 
hailed  for  the  first  time  on  this  spot  with  the  angelical  sal- 
utation, accompanied  by  the  ringing  of  bells.  It  was  a 
great  consolation  for  us  to  speak  of  her  goodness,  in  the 
presence  of  the  representatives  of  twenty -six  different  na- 
tions. I  forgot  to  mention  that  on  the  day  we  took  posses- 
sion of  the  Blessed  Mary's  new  demesne,  we  set  up  a  large 
cross  in  the  middle  of  the  camp,  a  circumstance  rendered 
more  striking,  from  having,  as  they  assured  me,  been  pre- 


:♦ 


1) 


•3 


m 


'i « 


ii« 


it 


■  ;  'VI 


:)ii; 


yii 


V\ 


' 


■  ( 


1 1 


2      a 


M 


178 


Narrative  of 


(liclctl  by  the  young  girl,  called  Mary,  of  whom  I  spoko  lo 
you  before.  How  mucli  I  wiaiied  that  all  those  who  lake 
a  Biiicere  interest  in  the  progress  of  our  holy  religion, 
could  have  been  present.  How  their  hearts  would  have 
glowed  within  them  on  beholding  all  the  good  Flat  Heads, 
from  the  great  chief  to  the  smallest  child,  piously  coming 
up  lo  press  their  lips  to  the  wood  which  was  the  instru- 
ment of  the  world's  salvation,  and  on  their  bended  knees 
taking  the  solemn  promise  of  dying  a  thousand  times  rather 
than  abandon  prayer,  (religion.)  1  started  llin  '28ih  Octo- 
ber for  Fort  Colville,  which  is  situated  on  the  ('olumbia 
river,  to  procure  provisions.  Ours  had  l)ecome  so  scanty, 
and  we  entertained  such  slight  hopes  of  obt:iiniiig  them, 
that  we  had  already  thought  of  converting  into  fishermen 
the  carpenters  of  our  settlement.  In  rase  of  their  not  being 
successlul,  and  theieby  unable  to  supply  our  wants,  we  in- 
tended accompanying  the  savages  on  their  hunting  expedi- 
tions. Our  only  building  as  yet  was  a  wooden  iiouse, 
without  a  roof,  and  the  winter  had  already  set  in.  We 
began  by  recommending  our  wants  to  God,  and  with  God's 
assistance  we  found  ourselves,  on  St.  Martin's  day,  in 
possession  of  a  temporary  chapel,  large  enough  to  contain 
all  the  colony,  with  about  one  hundred  of  the  Pierced  Nose 
tribe,  whom  cuiiosiiy  had  attracted  to  the  neighborhood. 
Since  that  period  they  have  been  so  careful  in  avoiding  sin, 
so  exact  in  attending  our  instructions,  and  the  fruit  of  the 
divine  word  has  been  so  visible  in  our  settlement,  that  on 
the  3d  of  December  two  hundred  and  two  catechumens 
were  ranged  in  our  chapel,  waiting  for  baptism.  This  was 
loo  beautiful  an  ofl'ering  to  St.  Francis  Xavier,  apostle  of 
ihe  Indians,  nol  to  excite  the  fury  of  man's  great  enemy. — 
Accordingly,  for  a  few  days  previously  we  encountered  mul- 
tiplied trials.    To  speak  only  of  the  most  visible,  the  pre- 


a   Vcar'a   UcHuhnce. 


179 


I  spoko  to 

>  who  take 

7  religion, 

oiild  have 

lat  Heads, 

ly  coming 

he  instru- 

(led  knees 

ncs  ralher 

8ih  Oclo- 

('uhiinbia 

so  scanty, 

ling  them, 

lishermen 

not  being 

ts,  we  in- 

ig  expedi- 

pn  iiouse, 

in.     We 

ith  God's 

day,  in 

contain 

:ed  Nose 

jorhood. 

ding  sin, 

t  of  the 

that  on 

humens 

his  was 

lostle  of 

lemy. — 

ed  mul- 

the  pre- 


I 


feet,  interpreter  and  sexton  fell  sirk.  Tho  very  eve  of  the 
great  day  the  environs  were  laid  waste  by  a  sort  of  hurri- 
cane— the  chnrch  windows  wore  broken,  lartre  trees  were 
rooted  up,  and  three  huts  were  thrown  down  ;  but  these 
obstacles,  far  from  prejudicing  the  triumph  of  relisfion, 
served  only  to  render  it  still  more  striking. 

Tlic  calcc^humens  having  assembled  in  tho  chapel,  which 
had  been  adorned  with  its  most  beaiitiful  ornuments,  and 
where  they  had  I)cen  conducted  lor  the  more  inunediate 
preparations  of  their  hearts  prior  to  receiving  tlie  groat 
sacrament  of  baptism,  were  so  struck  by  the  imposing  ap- 
pearance of  the  chapel,  and  the  meloilious  sounds  of  the 
organ,  now  heard  for  the  first  time  in  the  wilderness,  ihat 
they  were  not  able  to  express  their  admiration.  The  next 
day,  with  the  exception  of  the  lime  the  Fathers  took  for 
their  dinner,  they  were  in  church  from  eight  o'clock  in  the 
morning  until  half  past  ten  in  the  evening.  How  delight- 
ful it  was  to  listen  to  the  intelligent  answers  ol  the  good 
savages  to  all  the  questions  proposed  to  them.  Never  will 
those  who  were  present  forget  llip  pious  spirit  of  their  re- 
plies. The  rehabilitations  of  their  mnrriages  succeeded 
baptism,  but  not  without  great  sacrifices  on  their  part,  be- 
cause, until  that  time,  the  poor  Indians  had  been  ignorant 
of  the  unity  and  indissolubility  of  the  conjugal  lie.  We 
could  not  help  admiring  the  mighty  eflects  of  the  sacrament 
of  baptism  in  their  souls.  One  poor  husband  hesitated  as 
to  which  of  his  wives  he  should  select.  The  oldest  of 
them,  perceiving  his  irresolution,  said  to  him :  •'  You 
know  how  much  I  love  you,  and  I  am  also  certain  that  you 
love  me,  but  you  cherish  another  more;  she  is  younger 
than  I  am.  Well,  remain  with  her ;  leave  me  our  children, 
and  in  that  manner  we  can  all  be  baptized."  I  could  cite 
many  such  traits. 


H 


ii 


'■la 


i\ 


1 


H 


I 


If';'    ' 


I 


m 


180 


Narrative  of 


I  will  here  begin  the  narrative  of  my  journey  to  Colville. 
On  the  eve  of  my  deparluie  I  informed  l!ie  Flat  Heads  of 
my  intentions.  I  requested  them  to  procure  some  hoises, 
and  a  small  escort,  in  case  I  should  meet  with  any  of  their 
enemies,  the  I31ack  Feet.  They  brought  to  me  seventeen 
horses,  the  number  1  had  asked  them  ;  and  ten  young  and 
brave  warriors,  who  lad  already  been  often  pierced  with 
balls  and  arrows  in  diflerent  skirmishes,  presented  them- 
selves to  accompnny  me  on  my  journey.  With  pleasure  I 
bear  testimony  to  their  devotedne&s,  their  child-like  simpli- 
city and  docility,  politeness,  complaisance  and  rare  hilarity  ; 
but,  above  all,  to  their  exemplary  piety. 

These  good  Flat  Heads  endeavored  in  every  manner  to 
divine  and  anticipate  all  my  wants.  On  the  afternoon 
of  the  28lh  October,  as  I  have  already  said,  we  commenced 
our  march,  and  encamped  at  a  distance  of  ten  miles  from 
St.  Mary's.  That  day  we  met  no  one  but  a  solitary  hun- 
ter, who  was  carrying  a  buck,  the  half  of  which  he  oflTered 
to  us,  with  great  eagerness.  This  furnished  us  with  an 
excellent  supper,  and  a  good  breakfast  for  the  next  morn- 
ing. The  29ih,  snow  fell  in  large  flakes,  notwithstanding 
which  we  continued  our  march.  We  crossed,  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  a  fine  stream,  without  a  name — the  same 
one  which  the  famous  travellers,  Lewis  and  Claike,  as- 
cended in  1806,  on  their  way  to  the  section  of  country  oc- 
cupied by  the  tribe  of  the  Pierced  Noses,  (or  Sapetans.)  I 
will  call  ii,  the  river  of  St.  Francis  Borgia.  Six  miles  further 
south  we  crossed  the  beautiful  river  of  St.  Ignatius.  It 
enters  the  plain  of  the  Bitter  Root, — which  we  shall  hence- 
forward call  St.  Mary's, — by  a  beautiful  defile,  commonly 
called,  by  the  mountaineers  or  Canadian  hunters,  the 
Devil's  Gate;  for  what  reason,  however,  I  know  not. 
These  gentlemen  have  frequently  on  their  lips  the  words 


I    .      .! 


s^. 


a  Fear^s  Residence. 


181 


0  Colville. 
Heads  of 
ne  horses, 
ly  of  their 
sevenleen 
^oung  and 
3rced  with 
ited  ihem- 
pleasure  I 
ke  simpli- 
e  hilarity  ; 

manner  to 

afternoon 

)mmenced 

iiiles  from 

itary  hun- 

he  ofTered 

\vith  an 

xt  morn- 

|hslanding 

in    the 

the  same 

aike,  as- 

ntry  oc- 

ans.)     I 

s  further 

tius.     It 

111  hence- 

mmonly 

rs,    the 

w  not. 

words 


devil  and  hell ;  and  it  is  perhaps  on  this  account  that  we 
heard  so  often  these  appellations.  Be  not  then  alarmed 
when  1  tell  you  that  1  examined  the  Devil's  pass,  went 
through  the  Devil's  gate,  rowed  on  Satan's  stream,  and 
jumped  from  the  Devil's  horns.  The  •'  rake,"  one  of  the 
passes,  the  horns,  and  the  stream,  really  deserve  names 
that  express  something  horrible — all  three  are  exceedingly 
dangerous.  The  first  and  second,  on  account  of  the  innu- 
merable snags  which  fill  their  beds,  as  there  are  entire 
forests  swallowed  up  by  the  river.  'J'he  third  pass  of 
which  1  spoke,  adds  to  the  diiriculties  of  the  others  a  cur- 
rent still  stronger.  A  canoe  launched  into  this  torrent  flies 
over  it  with  the  speed  of  an  arrow,  and  the  most  experi- 
enced pilot  trembles  in  spite  of  himself.  Twice  did  the 
brave  Iroquois,  who  conducted  our  light  canoe,  exclaim  : 
••Father,  we  are  lost/'  but  a  loud  cry  of  "courage — take 
courage,  John,  confide  in  God,  keep  steady  to  the  oar," 
saved  us  in  that  dangerous  stream,  drew  us  out  from  be- 
tween the  horns  and  threatening  teeth  of  this  awful  "  rake." 
But  let  us  return  to  our  account  of  the  journey  to  Colville. 
We  spread  our  skins  on  the  borders  of  a  little  river  at  the 
foot  of  a  high  mouiitain,  which  we  were  to  cross  the  next 
day,  having  traversed  St.  .Mary's  valley,  a  distance  of  about 
forty  miles.  This  valley  is  from  four  to  seven  miles  wide, 
and  above  two  hundred  long.  It  has  but  one  fine  dtfile, 
already  mentioned,  and  which  serves  as  the  entrance  to,  and 
issue  from,  the  valley.  The  mountains  which  terminate  it 
on  both  sides  appear  to  be  inaccessible ;  they  are  piles  of 
jagged  rocks,  the  base  of  which  presents  nothing  but  frag- 
ments of  the  same  description,  while  the  Norwegian  pine 
grows  on  those  that  are  covered  with  earth,  giving  them  a 
very  sombre  appearance,  particularly  in  the  autumn,  in 
which  season  the  snow  begins  to  fall.     They  abound  in 

16 


•5   .1 


u 


'J 


) 


^|!-    : 


:    I 


li 


I 


■r 

1 

i 

,       t 

I 

,1         ' 

182 


Narrative  of 


bucks,  bufTalos,  and  sheep,  whusc  wool  is  as  white  as 
snow,  and  as  fine  as  silk  ;  aUo  in  all  kinds  of  bears,  wolves, 
panthers,  carcasiux,  tiger  cats,  wild  cats,  and  whisllers,  a 
species  of  mountain  rat.  'i'he  moose  is  i'ound  here,  but  is 
very  seldom  caught,  on  account  ol  its  exiraordinary  vigi- 
lance, for,  on  the  slightest  rustling  of  a  branch  it  leaves  ofl 
eating,  and  will  not  return  to  its  food  for  a  long  time  after- 
wards. The  soil  of  the  valley  is,  with  some  few  ex- 
ception:^,   very   light;    it    contains,    however,  some  good 


pastures. 


'I'he    whole  course   of  the  river  is  well   lined 


with  trees;  especially   with  the  pine,  the  fir,  cotton,  and 
willow  trees. 

Anjongst  the  most  remarkable  hires  we  distinguished  the 
Nun's  eagle,  (so  called  by  travellers  on  account  of  the 
color  of  its  head,  which  is  while,  whilst  the  other  parts  of 
the  body  are  black,)  the  black  eagle,  buzzard,  waterfowl, 
heron,  crane,  pheasant  and  quail.  On  the  30lh  we  ascend- 
ed a  gap  in  the  mountrin.  'i'he  two  sides  weie  very  lofty, 
and  studded  with  laige  pines,  all  the  branches  of  which 
were  covered  villi  a  black  and  very  fine  moss,  that  hung  in 
festoons,  or  in  the  fchaj)e  of  mourning  garlands,  and  added 
to  the  already  funereal  appearance  of  this  pass.  We  here 
filed  ofl'  by  a  little  path,  scarce  worthy  however  of  the 
name,  for  a  distance  of  six  miles.  The  road  was  filled 
with  large  blocks  of  stone  and  trunks  of  trees,  placed  as  if 
it  were  on  purpose  to  render  the  pass  difliculi  and  imprac- 
ticable. 'I'he  summit  once  attained,  we  |)roceeded  to  cross 
a  smiling  little  plain,  called  the  Camash  Prairies,  where 
the  Flat  Meads  come  every  spring  to  dig  up  that  nourish- 
ing root,  which,  together  with  the  gama  they  are  able  to 
procure,  forms  their  chief  nourishment.  We  very  soon 
descended  the  mountain  in  a  zigzag  direction,  and  reached 
a  beautiful  plain,  which  is  watered  by  two  rivers,  the  St. 


a  Fear's  Residence, 


183 


'!■ 


t 


while  as 
,  wolves, 
isllers,  a 
re,  but  is 
ary  vigi- 
eaves  ofi 
me  afier- 
low  ex- 
nie  good 
ell  lined 
Uon,  and 

ibhcd  the 

nt  of  the 

r  j)arls  of 

aierfowl, 

e  ascend- 

ry  lofty, 

;)f  which 

hung  in 

ui  added 

We  here 

r  of  the 

as  filled 

ced  as  if 

iniprao 

lo  cross 

,  where 

lourish- 

able  to 

V  soon 

« 

reached 
the  St. 


Aloysius    and  St.    Stanislaus.     'I'hey  unite  in  this  plain, 
whence  they  go   to  join  the   forks   at  Clark's,   otherwise 
called  the  Flat  Head  river.     This  valley  extends  about  ten 
miles.     I   perceived  in  this  place  one  of  those  formidable 
Black  Foot  Indians  in  the  act  of  hidlnj^  himself.     I  did  not 
speak  of  it  to   my  young  companions,  fearing  that  I  might 
not  bs  able  to  prevent  a  bloody  struggle  between  them.     I 
however  took  the  precaution  of  having  a  good   watch  kept 
over  our  horses.     The  next  day  was  Sunday,  a  day  of  rest. 
1  celebrated  the   Holy  Sacrifice  of  the  .Mass,  and  baptized 
three  little  children  of  the  Pointed  Hearts'  tribe,  whose  pa- 
rents had  joined  us  on  the  road.     The  rest  of  the  day  was 
spent  in  prayer  and  instructions.     The  chief  of  our  band 
twice   addressed   his  companions,  and  spoke   with   much 
force  and  precision  on  the  dillerent  portions  of  our  religion, 
which  he  already  had  heard  explained.     The  1st  of  No- 
vember— Ail    Saints'    Day — after    having    celebrated     the 
Holy  Sacrilice  under  a  large  poplar  tree,  we  proceeded  on 
our  journey  through  a  defile  of  about  six    miles.     At  the 
lord  of  the  Great  Clark's  Fork,  we  met  two  encampments 
of  the  Kalispel  tribe,  who,  having  heard  of  our  approach, 
had  come  thither  to  see   us.     Men,  women  and  children, 
ran  to   meet  us,  ami  pressed  our  hands  with  every  demon- 
stration of  sincere  joy.     The  chief  of  the  first  camp  was 
called  Chalax.     I  baptized  twenty-four  children  in  his  little 
village,  and  one   young   woman,  a  Koelenaise,  who  was 
dying.     The  chief  of  the  second  camp  was  named  Hoy- 
lelps;    his  band   occupied   thirty  hats.     I  spent  the  night 
amongst  them  ;  and,  although  they  had  never  seen  me  be- 
fore, they  knew  all  the  prayers  that  I  had  taught  the  Flat 
Heads  on  my  first  journey.     The  fact  is,  on  hearing  of  my 
arrival  in  the  mountains,  they  deputed  an  intelligent  young 
man  to  meet  me,  and  who  was  also  gifted  with  a  good 


. '  f 


'I'M 


1- 

•1 

■f 

}: 

1 

i*i 


1^; 


m 


u 


Mi 


^<',i, 


!l 


IP 

1*1 


i 


i  ;|1 


IftjifK 


184 


Narrative  of  a 


memory.    Having  learned  the  prayers  and  canticles,  and 
such   points   as  were  most   essential  for  salvation,  he  re- 
peated to  the  village  all  that  he  had  heard  and  seen.     He 
had  acquitted  himself  of  his  commission  so  well,  and  with 
so    much    zeal,   that   he  gave    instructions   to  his    people 
during    the   course  of  the  winter.     The  same  desire  for 
information  concerning  religion,  had  communicated  itself 
to    the   other  smnll    camps,    and    with    the   same    cheer- 
ing   success.     It   was,    as    you    can   easily     imagine,    a 
great  consolation  for  me  to  hear  prayers  addressed  to  the 
great  God,  and  his  praises  sung  in  a  <!esert  of  about  three 
hundred  miles  extent,  where  a  Catholic  priest  had  never 
been  before.     They  were  overjoyed  when  they  heard  that 
I  hoped  before  long  to  be  able  to  leave  a  Missionary  amongst 
them.     I   cannot  pass  over  in  silence,  a  beautiful  custom 
that  is  observed  by   these  good  people:     Every  evening, 
after  prayers,  the  chief  instructs  his  people,  or  gives  them 
some  salutary  advice,  to  which  they  all   listen  with  most 
profound  attention,  respect  and  njodesty.     To  see  them  at 
their  devotions  one  would  be  more  apt  to  mistake  them  for 
perfecily  religious  men  than  savages.     The  next  day,  be- 
fore my  departure,  1  ba[)iised  twenty-iieven  children  of  the 
tribe.     On   that  evening  we  alighted  amongst  fifteen  huts 
of  the  same  nation,  who  received  us  with  equal  kindness. 
Their  cliief  liad  come  several  miles  to  meet  me.     He  ac- 
knowledged frankly  that   having  become  acquainted   with 
some  American  ministers,  in  the  course  of  the  summer — 
he  had  been  told  by  them  that  my  prayer  (religion)  was 
not  a  good  one.     *'My  heart  is  divided,"  said  he,  "  and  I 
do  not  know  what  to  adhere  to."    I  had  no  trouble  in  mak- 
ing him  understand  the  difference  between  those  gentlemen 
and   priests,    and   the  cause   of  their  calumnious  attacks 
against  the  only  true  church  of  Christ,  which  their  ances- 


t ' 


4 


a   Vear^s  liesiihnce. 


185 


\    ■ 


icles,  and 
m,  he  re- 
een.     He 

and  with 
is  people 
Jesire  for 
lied  itself 
le  cheer- 
:igine,  a 
?d  to  the 
)iit  three 
ad  never 
Bard  that 

amongst 
1  custom 
evening, 
es  ihem 
til  most 

ihem  at 
hem  for 

ly,  be- 
of  the 

Ml   iiuts 

idness. 
le  ac- 
u'iih 

inier — 

i)  was 
and  I 
mak- 
emen 

ttacks 

inces> 


tors  had  abandoned.  On  the  3d  of  November,  after  prayers 
and  instructions  to  the  savages,  we  continued  our  march. 
We  were  on  the  borders  of  the  (Jlarkc  Folks,  to  which  we 
were  obliircd  to  keep  close  during  eiglit  days,  whilst  we 
descended  the  country  bordering  the  stream.  'I'he  river  is 
at  this  place  of  a  greenish  blue,  very  transprirent,  caused 
probably  by  the  ileposit  of  a  great  quantity  of  oxigen  of 
iron.  Our  path  during  a  great  part  of  the  day  was  on  the 
declivity  of  a  lofty,  rocky  mountain  ;  we  were  here  obliged 
to  climb  a  steep  rough  pass  from  400  to  GOO  feet  high.  I 
had  before  seen  landscapes  of  awful  grandeur,  but  this  one 
certainly  surpassed  all  others  in  horror.  My  cour<ige  failed 
at  the  lirst  sight ;  it  was  impossible  to  remain  on  horseback, 
and  on  fool  my  weight  of  two  hundred  and  eleven  pounds, 
was  no  trifle,  'i'his,  therefore,  was  the  expedient  to  which 
I  resorted:  My  mule  l^izette  was  suniciently  docile  and 
kind  to  allow  nie  to  grasp  her  tail,  to  which  1  held  on  firnj- 
ly :  crying  at  one  moment  aloud,  and  at  other  times  making 
use  of  the  whip  to  excite  her  courage,  until  the  good  beast 
conducted  me  safely  to  the  very  top  of  the  mountain. — 
There  I  breathed  freely  for  awhile,  and  contemplated  the 
magnificent  prospect  that  presented  itself  to  M)y  sight. 

The  windings  of  the  river  with  the  scenery  on  its  banks 
were  before  me,  on  one  side  hung  over  our  heads,  rocks 
piled  on  rocks  in  the  most  precipitous  manncM",  and  on  the 
other  stood  lofty  peaks  crowned  with  snow  and  pine  trees: 
mountains  of  every  shape  and  feature  reared  their  towering 
forms  before  us.  It  really  was  a  fine  view  and  one  which 
was  well  worth  the  efTort  we  had  made.  On  descending 
from  this  elevation  I  had  to  take  new  precautions.  1  pre- 
ceded the  mule,  holding  her  by  the  bridle,  while  she 
moved  cautiously  down  to  the  fool  of  the  "  Bad  Kock,"  (as 
it  is  called  by  the  savages,)  as  though  she  feared  stumbling 

10* 


r 


ii 


I    M, 


;'!■■ 


'ii 


M 


E 


fi ..' 


:1 


'  mm 


I 

I    h: 


I, 


r 


186 


Narrative  of 


and  rolling  with  her  master  into  the  river  which  flowed 
beneath  us.  At  this  place  Clarke's  Fork  runs  through  a  nar- 
row defile  of  rocky  mountains  ;  at  times  the  soft  murmur- 
ings  of  the  waters  charm  the  traveller,  at  others  it  spreads 
out  and  presents  a  calm  suiface  clear  as  crystal.  Wherever 
it  is  narrowed  or  intercepted  by  rocks  it  forms  rapids,  with 
falls  and  cascades;  the  noise  of  which,  like  that  caused  by 
a  storm  in  the  forest,  is  heard  at  a  great  distance.  Nothing 
can  be  more  diversified  than  this  fine  river.  'J'here  is  in 
this  vicinity  a  great  variety  of  trees,  bushes  and  difl'erent 
species  of  the  tamarisk  tree.  The  lichnis,  a  medicinal  plant 
mentioned  by  Charlevoix  in  his  history  of  Canada,  grows 
here  abundantly.  We  met  in  the  course  of  that  day  with 
only  one  family,  and  thai  was  of  the  Kalispel  tribe.  Whilst 
the  women  were  rowing  up  the  river  their  li<rht  canoe, 
made  of  the  fir  tree  bark,  which  contained  their  children 
and  all  the  baggage,  the  men  followed  along  the  bank  with 
their  rifles  or  bows  in  their  hands  in  puisuit  of  game. 

On  the  4th  we  entered  a  cedar  and  pine  forest  so  dense 
that  in  its  whole  length  we  could  scarcely  see  beyond  the 
distance  of  twenty  feet.  Our  beasts  of  burden  suflered  a 
great  deal  in  it  from  the  want  of  grass.  We  scarcely  got 
through  it  after  three  day's  march.  It  was  a  real  labyrinth; 
from  morning  till  night  we  did  nothing  but  wind  about  to 
avoid  thousands  of  trees,  fallen  either  from  fire,  storms  or 
age.  On  issuing  from  this  forest  we  were  charmed  by  an 
interesting  prospect:  Our  view  extended  over  the  whole 
surface  of  the  lake  called  "  Pcndsd'oreilles,"  studded  with 
small  islands  covered  with  woods :  over  its  inlets  and  the 
hills  which  overlook  them,  and  which  have  for  the  most 
part  their  base  on  the  borders  of  the  lake  and  rise  by  gra- 
dual leriaces  or  elevations  until  they  reach  the  adjoining 
mountains,  which  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.     The 


a  Yearns  Residence. 


187 


ich  flowed 
ugh  a  nar- 
I  murmur- 
it  spreads 
Wlierever 
pids,  with 
caused  by 
Nothing 
)ere  is  in 
I  difl'erent 
:3inal  plant 
Ja,  grows 
day   with 
e.   Whilst 
ht  canoe, 
■  children 
ank  with 
me. 

so  dense 
yond  the 
udered  a 
rcely  got 
iibyrinth; 
about  to 
torms  or 
d  by  an 
e  whole 
Itled  with 
and  the 
|lhe  most 
by  gra- 
iljoining 
The 


lake  is  about  30  miles  long  and  from  4  to  7  wide.  At  the 
head  of  it  we  traversed  a  forest,  which  is  certainly  a  won- 
der of  its  kind  ;  there  is  probably  nothing  similar  to  it  in 
America.  The  savages  speak  of  it  as  the  finest  in  Oregon, 
and  really  every  tree  which  it  contains  is  enormous  in  its 
kind.  The  birch,  elm  and  beech,  generally  small  else- 
where, like  the  toad  of  La  Fontaine,  that  aimed  at  being  as 
large  as  the  ox,  swell  nut  here  to  twice  their  size.  They 
would  fain  rival  the  cedar,  the  Goliah  of  the  forest,  who, 
however,  looking  down  with  contempt  upon  his  pitiful 
companions, 

"  Elove  aux  cioux 
Son  front  andacicux." 
"Rears  to  iieaven  his  andufiious  head." 
The  bircli  and  beech  at  its  side,  resemble  large  candclabras 
placed  around  a  massive  column.  CiMlars,  of  Hnir  and  five 
fathoms  in  circumference,  are  here  very  common  ;  we  saw 
some  six,  and  I  measured  one  forty-iwo  feet  in  circumfe- 
rence. A  cedar  of  four  fathoms,  lying  on  the  ground,  mea- 
sured more  than  two  hundred  feel  in  length.  The  delicate 
branches  of  these  noble  trees  entwine  themselves  above  the 
beech  and  elm  ;  iheir  fine,  dense  and  ever-green  foliage, 
forming  an  arch  through  which  t!ie  sun's  rays  never  pene- 
trate; and  this  lofty  vault,  supported  by  thousands  of  co- 
lumns, brought  to  the  mind's  eye,  the  idea  of  an  immense, 
glorious  temple,  carpeted  with  the  hardy  ever-greens  that 
live  and  flourish  best  in  the  shade. 

Before  entering  the  forest  we  crossed  a  high  mountain  by 
a  wild  winding  path.  Its  sides  are  covered  with  fine  ce- 
dars and  pines,  which  are,  however,  of  smaller  dimensions 
than  those  in  the  forest,  Several  times  whilst  ascending 
the  mountain  I  found  myself  on  parapets  of  rocks,  whence, 
thanks  to  my  safe-fooled  mule,  I  retired  in  safety.     Once  I 


i 


I  i 


'ii 


..•■■'*' 


.Li 


Il]^ 


l1  ■■     I. 


'  a » ..' 


i' 


m 


I' 

i; ! 
1^ 


m 


li 


I  I 


4 


I    ^ 


» -r 


188 


Narrative  of 


thought  my  career  at  an  end.  I  liad  wandered  from  my 
companions,  and  following  the  path,  I  all  at  once  came  to  a 
rocky  projeclioii  which  terminated  in  a  point  about  two 
feet  wide  ;  before  me  was  a  jieijiendicular  descent  of  three 
feet;  on  my  left  stood  a  rock  as  straight  as  a  wail,  and  on 
n)y  light  yawned  a  prccij)ice  of  about  a  thousand  feet. — 
You  can  conceive  thai  my  situation  was  any  tiling  but 
pleasant.  The  slightest  fal»e  step  would  have  plunged  the 
mule  and  his    rider  into   the   abyss   beneath.     To  descend 


idel 


:losed  in  by  tli 


was  impossible,  as  on  one 
and  suspended  over  a  dreadful  chasm  on  the  other.  My 
mule  held  slopped  at  the  commencement  of  the  descent,  and 
not  having  any  time  to  lose,  1  recommended  myself  to 
God,  and  as  a  last  expedient  sunk  my  spurs  deeply  into  the 
sides  of  my  poor  beast;  she  made  one  bold  leap  and  safely 
landed  me  on  another  parapet  much  larger  than  that  I  had 
left. 

The  history  of  the  fine  forest,  and  my  leap  from  the 
dangerous  rock,  will  be  treated  with  incredulity  by  many  of 
your  acquaintance.  If  so,  tell  them  that  1  invite  them  to 
visit  both  these  places:  "Venilc  et  videte."  I  promise 
them  before  hand,  that  they  will  admire  with  me  the  won- 
ders of  nature,  'i'hey  will  have,  like  me,  their  moments  of 
admiration  and  of  fear.  I  cannot  pass  over  in  silence  the 
pleasant  meeting  I  had  in  the  depth  of  the  forest.  I  disco- 
vered a  li'tle  hut  of  rushes,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
river.  Raising  my  voice  to  its  highest  pilch,  I  tried  to 
make  its  inhabitants  hear  me,  but  received  no  answer.  I 
felt  an  irresistible  desire  to  visit  it,  and  accordingly  made 
my  interpreter  accompany  me.  We  found  it  occupied  by 
a  poor  old  woman,  who  was  blind,  and  very  ill.  I  spoke  to 
her  of  the  Great  Spirit,  of  the  most  essential  dogmas  of  our 
faith,  and  of  baptism.     The  example  of  the  Apostle  St. 


K  < 


a  Year'' 8  Residence. 


189 


from  my 
•ame  lo  a 
bout  two 
:  of  three 
I,  and  on 
iiJ  feel. — 
ihing  but 
nged  the 
t  de?cend 
tlie  rock, 
er.  My 
cent,  and 
iiyself  to 
'  into  the 
id  safely 
lat  I  liad 


roin  the 

many  of 

ihcm  to 

promise 

le  won- 

nentsof 

ncc  tlie 

I  disco- 

of  the 

ried  to 

er.     I 

made 

ied  by 

oke  to 

of  our 

le  St. 


Philip  teaches  us  that  tiicre  arc  cases  when  all  the  requisite 
dispositions  may  entirely  consist  in  an  act  of  faith,  and  in 
the  sincere  desire  to  enter  Heaven  by  the  right  path.     All 
the  answers  of  the  poor  old  woman  were  respectful,  and 
breathing  the  love  of  God.     "  Yes,"  she  would  say,  "  I 
love  the  Great  Spirit  with  my  whole  heart;  all  my  life  he 
has  been  very  kind  to  me.     Yes,  1   wish  to  be  His  child,  [ 
want  to  be  His  forever."     And  immediately  she  fell  on  her 
knees,  and  bejiged   me  to  give  her  baptism.     I  named  her 
iMary,  and  placed  around  her  neck  the  miraculous  medal  of 
the  Blessed  Virgin.     After    leaving  her,    I   overheard  her 
thanking  God  for  this  fortunate  adventure.     I  had  scarcely 
regained  the  path,  when  I  met  her  husband,  almost  bent  to 
the  earth  by  ago  and  infirmity  ;  ho  could  hardly  drag  him- 
self along.     He  h-ul  been  setting  a  trap  in  the  forest  for  the 
bucks.     The  Flat  Heads   who  had  preceded  me,  had  told 
him  of  my  arrival.     As  soon,  therefore,  as  he  perceived  me, 
he  began  to  cry  out,  with  a  trembling  voice  :   "  Oh  how  de- 
lighted I  am  to  see  our  Father  before   1  die.     The  Great 
Spirit  is  good — oh   how   happy  my   heart  is."     And  the 
venerable    old    man  pressed  my  hand  most  afTectionately, 
repeating  again  and  again  the  same  expressions,     'i'ears  fell 
from    my  eyes    on  witnessing  such  afleciion.     I   told  him 
that  I  had  just  left  !)is  !|Ul,  and  had  baptized  his  wife.     "  I 
heard,"  said  he,  "of  your  arrival  in  our  mountains,  and  of 
your  baptizing  many  of  our  people.     I  am  poor  and  old;  I 
had  hardly  dared  to  hope  for  the  happiness  of  seeing  you. 
Black-gown,    make    me   as   happy    as  you  have  made  my 
wife.     I  wish  also  to  belong  to  God,  and  we  will  always 
love  Him."     I   conducted  him  to  the  borders  of  a  stream 
that  flowed  near  us,  and  after  a  brief  instruction,  I  adminis- 
tered to  tiim  the  Holy  Sacrament  of  Baptism,  naming  him 
Sitnon.     On  seeing  me  depart,  he  repeated,  impressively  : 


.'t- 


,)! 


Ml) 


"■    1       ' 


ilti 


I 


m 

I  III 


ilM 


i  \ 


190 


Narrative  of 


"  Oh  how  gdoti  is  llie  (Ireal  Spirit.  I  ihaiik  you,  Siiylax, 
(nhick-govvii)  for  »hc  favor  you  have  conferred  on  nie.  Oh 
how  happy  is  my  heart.  Yes,  I  will  always  love  ihe 
Great  ypirit.  Oh  huw  {rood  the  (Jreal  Spirit  is  ;  how  good 
He  i.«."  D'lring  that  same  journey,  i  discovered  in  a  little 
hut  of  bulrushes,  five  old  men,  who  appeared  to  be  four- 
score years  oM.  Three  of  them  were  blind,  and  the  other 
two  had  but  one  eye  each  ;  they  were  almost  naked,  and 
ofl'ercd  a  real  personification  of  human  misery.  I  spoke  to 
them  for  a  considerable  time  on  the  means  of  salvation,  and 
on  the  bliss  of  another  world.  Their  answeis  edified  me 
much,  and  afiected  me  even  to  tears;  ihey  were  replete 
with  the  love  of  God,  a  desire  of  doing  right,  and  of  dying 
well.  You  might  have  heard  these  good  old  men  crying 
out  from  din'ercnl  parts  of  the  hut,  forming  together  a  touch- 
ing chorus,  to  which  I  sincerely  wished  that  all  the  chil- 
dren of  St.  Ignatius  could  have  listened.  "  Oh  Great 
Spirit,  what  a  happiness  is  coming  to  us  in  our  old  days  ' 
We  will  love  you,  O  Great  Spirit.  Le  mck  Kaikolinzoe- 
ten;  one  le-mcle  ellelill.  We  will  love  you,  O  Great 
Spirit.  Yes,  we  will  love  you  till  death."  When  we  ex- 
plained to  them  the  necessity  of  baptism,  they  demanded  it 
earnestly,  and  knelt  down  to  receive  it.  I  have  not  found 
as  yet  amongst  these  Indians,  I  will  not  say  opposition,  but 
not  even  coldness  or  indifference.  These  little  adventures 
are  our  great  consolation.  I  would  not  have  exchanged  my 
situation,  at  tjjat  moment,  for  any  other  on  earth.  I  was 
convinced  that  such  incidents  alone  were  worth  a  journey 
to  the  mountains.  Ah,  good  and  dear  Fathers,  who  may 
read  these  lines,  I  conjure  you,  through  the  mercy  of  our 
Divine  Redeemer,  not  to  hesitate  entering  this  vineyard  ;  its 
harvest  is  ripe  and  abundant.  Does  not  our  Saviour  tell  us  : 
•'  Ignera  veni  milierc  in  lerram  et  quid  volo  nisi  ut  accen- 


H   ': 


a  Year't  licsUlmce. 


101 


I,  Skylax, 
nic.  Oil 
i  love  the 
how  gooil 
I  in  a  lillle 
»  be  lour- 
the  other 
aketl,  and 

I  j^poke  to 
'atioii,  and 
edified  me 
irc  replelc 
d  of  dying 
len  crying 
L'r  a  louch- 

II  tlic  chil- 
Oh    Great 

old  days  ' 

ikolinzoe- 

O   Great 

leu  we  ex- 

anded  it 

not  found 

ilion,  but 

Iventures 

nged  my 

I  was 

journey 

ho  may 

1  of  our 

ard ;  its 

tell  us : 

It  accen- 


dalur."  It  is  amidst  ihe  poor  Irihcs  of  ihcso  isohilf  d  moun- 
tains that  the  lire  of  divine  grace  burns  wiih  atdur.  Su- 
perstitious praclices  liavc  disappmrrd  ;  nnr  h.ivo  ihey 
amongst  tlicni  the  caslfs  of  I'l.ist  Iii(ba.  Speak  lo  these 
Savages  of  heavenly  thiii'is ;  at  oikm;  t!ielr  h(;arts  :iri'  in- 
llamed  with  divine  love  ;  and  immciHali'ly  they  go  seriously 
about  the  great  alfair  of  their  salvation.  Day  and  night 
they  are  at  our  sides,  insalia!)le  for  tlie  '•  I'rcad  of  liife." 
Often,  on  retiring,  we  hear  them  say,  "  Our  sins,  no  doubt, 
rendered  us  so  long  unworthy  to  hoar  these  consoling 
words."  As  to  privations  and  (huigrrs,  the  Oregon  .Mis- 
sionaries must  expect   ihein,    for  they  will  certainly  meet 


the 


m, 


but  in    a    good    cau^e. 


S 


omeiiiner 


ti 


ic 


y    will    be 


obliged  to  fast,  but  a  better  appetite  will  be  their  reward. 
'JMieir  escapes  from  tlio  many  dangers  of  the  road,  or  from 
enemies  always  on  the  alert,  teach  tjicm  to  confide  in  CJod 
alone,  and  ever  to  keep  their  accounts  in  order.  1  heic 
feel  the  full  ap[)lication  of  that  consoling  text  of  the  Scrip- 


ture :  "  Mv  yoke  is  sweet,  and  mv  burden  is  lioht."     At 
the  last  day  it  will  be  manifest  that  the  holy  name  of  Jesus 
has  performed  wonders  amongst  these  poor  people.     Their 
eagerness  to  hear  the  glad  titlings  of  salvation  is  certainly  at 
its  height.     They  came  from  all  parts,  and  from  great  dis- 
tances, to  meet  rne  on  my  way,   and  presented  all  iheir 
young  children   and  dying  relatives   for  baptism.     Many 
followed  use  for  whole  days,  witli  the  sole  desire  of  receiv- 
ing instructions.     Really  our  hearts  Lied  at  the  sight  of  so 
many  souls  who  are  lost  for  the  want  of  religion's   ilivine 
and  saving  assistance.     Here  again  may  we  cry  out  with 
the  Scripture  :  "  The  harvest  indeed  is  great,  but  the  labo- 
rers are  few."     What  Father  is  there  in  the  Society  whose 
zeal  will  not  be  enkindled  on  hearing  these  details  ?     And 
where  is  the  Christian  who  would  refuse  his  mite  to  such 


1 


I" 


4 


1 1 


till 


It. 


'f 


« 


1 1 


^    I 


u 


ff 


I ' 


'      8 


I  !1 


i 


"         Ji 


102 


Narrative  of 


!i  work  as  tliat  ol"  llie  "  Propn^ation  of  llic  Failh  .'"  that 
prccioiis  pearl  of  the  (-liurcli,  uliich  proriirrs  salvation  to 
so  many  houIs,  who  otln-rwifte  wonltl  perish  unaitird  and 
forever.  J)iiriii;T  iny  joiirnciy,  which  hisleil  forty-two 
(lays,  I  baptized  190  persons,  of  whom  'JTi  were  adults', 
sick,  or  in  extreme  ohl  a::e  ;  I  preached  to  more  tlian 
two  ihousand  In»han3;  who  thus  evidently  conducted  into 
my  way  hy  I'rovidenee  ,  will  not,  I  trust,  tarry  lonj^  in 
ran^iu},'  themselves  under  ihe  hanner  of  Jesus  Christ.  With 
the  assistance  of  my  cateehists,  the  Flat  lleails.  who  were 
as  yet  hut  catechumens,  the  conversion  of  the  Kalispcl  tiihe 
was  so  Far  advanced  that  when  the  time  came  round  for  the 
winter's  hunting',  the  Rev.  Faiher  Point  enjoyed  the  conso- 
lation cf  sceiii^r  them  join  tlie  I'lat  ileud  trdie,  with  the  sole 
«lesirc  of  profiling  hy  the  Missionary's  presence.  'I'his 
gave  him  an  opportunity  to  instruct  and  haptise  a  (.'reat 
number  on  the  Purification  and  on  the  Feasts  of  the  Cano- 
nization of  Si.  Ignatius  and  St.  Francis  \avier.  On  my 
return,  the  8ih  of  December,  1  continued  inslructinjr  those 
of  the  Flat  Heads  who  had  \w\  been  baptized.  On  Christ- 
mas day  I  added  150  new  ba|)iisms  to  those  of  the  3il  of 
December,  and  132  rehabilitations  of  marriage;  so  that  the 
Flat  Heads,  some  sooner  and  others  later,  but  all,  with  very 
few  exceptions,  had,  in  the  space  of  three  months,  compli- 
ed with  every  thing  necessary  to  merit  the  glorious  title  of 
true  chiUlien  of  God.  Accordingly  on  ('hristmas  eve,  a 
few  inmrs  before  the  midnight  Mass,  the  village  of  St.  Ma- 
ry was  deemed  worthy  of  a  special  mark  of  heaven's  favour: 
The  Blessed  Virgin  appeared  to  u  litde  orphan  boy  named 
Paul,  in  the  hut  of  an  aged  and  truly  pious  woman. — 
The  youth,  piety  and  sincerity  of  this  child,  joined  to  the 
nature  of  the  fact  which  he  related,  forbade  us  to  doubt  the 
truth  of  his  statement.     The  following  is  what  he  recount- 


I. 


ih  r'  that 
vation  to 
iiidrd  mid 
lorly-lwo 
re  iidiiliH, 
joro  ilian 
icicd  into 
y  \o\](r  in 
ist.  With 
v\\i)  woro 
ispcl  iiiho 
nd  lor  the 
hi'  ronso- 
h  the  sole 
c.  Tins 
0  a  fireot 
ihij  Cano- 
On  my 
injj  those 
►  ii  Ohrist- 
the  :Jd  of 
10  that  the 
with  very 
?,  compli- 
ns title  of 
las  evp,  a 
d'St.  Ma- 
i's Hivonr: 
oy  named 
,voman. — 
led  to  the 
doubt  tjie 
e  recount- 


_^.^„,^^j|g|yi 


AIM'AIU'I'ION. 


it 


r> 


I 

jl 

i 


'-in 


V'' 


Mi 


m 


. 


ii 


iJ  i 


■  •ii 


i: 


»!■ 


^ 


a  Year's  Residence. 


193 


ed  to  me  with  his  own  innocent  lips :  "Upon  entering 
John's  hilt,  whither  I  had  gone  to  learn  my  prayers,  wliicli 
I  did  not  know,  I  saw  some  one  who  was  very  boautiful — 
her  feet  (hd  not  touch  the  earth,  her  garments  weie  as  white 
as  snow;  she  had  a  star  over  her  head,  a  serpent  under  her 
feet;  and  near  the  serpent  was  a  Triiit  which  I  did  not  re- 
cognise. I  couhl  see  her  heart,  from  which  rays  of  ligljt 
burst  fortli  and  slione  upon  me.  When  I  first  helichl  all 
this  I  was  frightened,  l)tit  afterwards  my  fear  left  me;  my 
heart  was  warmed,  my  mind  clear,  and  I  do  not  know  how 
it  happened,  but  all  at  once  1  knew  my  prayers,"  (To  be 
brief  I  omit  several  circumstances.)  He  ended  his  account 
by  saying  that  several  times  the  same  person  had  appeared 
to  him  whilst  he  was  sleeping;  and  that  once  she  had  told 
him  she  was  pleased,  that  the  first  village  of  the  Flat  Heads 
should  be  called  "  St.  Mary."  The  child  had  never  seen 
or  heard  before  any  thing  of  the  kind  ;  he  did  not  even 
know  if  the  person  was  a  man  or  woman,  because  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  dress  which  she  wore  was  entirely  unknown 
to  him.  Several  persons  having  interrogated  ihe  child  on 
this  subject,  have  found  him  unvarying  in  his  answers. 
He  continues  by  his  conduct  to  be  the  angel  of  liis  tribe. 

On  the  23d  of  December,  Father  Point,  at  the  head  of  the 
inhabitants  of  forty  lodges,  started  for  the  buffalo  hunt. — 
On  the  road  they  met  with  huntsmen  ef  five  or  six  diirerent 
tribes,  some  of  whom  followed  him  to  the  lermination  of 
the  chase,  from  the  desire  of  learning  their  prayers.  The 
Flat  Heads  having  prolonged  their  stay  at  St.  iNIary's  as 
long  as  they  possibly  could,  so  as  not  to  depart  without  re- 

iced  such  a  famine,  the  first  weeks 


ig  bapt 


:pei 


of  January,  that  their  poor  dogs,  having  not  even  a  bone  to 
gnaw,  devoured  the  very  straps  of  leather  with  which  they 
tied  their  horses  during  the  night.    The  cold  moreover  was 

17 


\ 


J 


194 


Narrative  of 


so  uninterruptedly  severe  that  during  the  hunting  season, 
which  lasted  three  months,  such  a  quantity  of  snow  fell  that 
many  were  attacked  with  a  painful  blindness,  vulgarly  call- 
ed ♦'  snow  disease."  One  day  when  the  wind  was  very 
high,  and  the  snow  falling  and  freezing  harder  than  usual, 
Father  Point  became  suddenly  very  pale,  and  would  no 
doubt  have  been  frozen  to  death,  in  the  midst  of  the  plain, 
had  not  some  travellers,  perceiving  the  change  in  his  coun- 
tenance, kindled  a  large  Hre.  But  neither  the  wind,  ice,  or 
famine,  prevented  the  zealous  Flat  Heads  from  performing 
on  this  journey  all  they  were  accustomed  to  do  at  St.  Ma- 
ry's. Every  morning  and  evening  they  assembled  around 
the  Missionary's  lodge,  and  more  than  three-fourths  of  them 
without  any  shelter  than  the  sky,  after  having  recited  their 
prayers,  listened  to  an  instruction,  preceded  and  followed 
by  hymns.  At  day-break  and  sunset  the  bell  was  tolled 
three  times  for  the  Angelical  Salutation.  The  Sunday  was 
religiously  kept ;  an  observance  which  was  so  acceptable 
to  God,  that  once  especially  it  was  recompensed  in  a  very 
visible  manner.  The  following  is  what  I  read  in  the  Jour- 
nal kept  by  Father  Point  during  the  winter's  hunt. 

Sixth  February. — To-day,  Sunday,  a  very  high  wind, 
the  sky  greyish,  and  the  thermometer  at  the  freezing  point; 
no  grass  for  the  horses ;  the  buffalos  driven  off  by  the 
Pierced  Noses.  The  7lh,  the  cold  more  piercing — food 
for  our  horses  still  scarcer — the  snow  increasing;  but  yes- 
terday was  a  time  of  perfect  rest,  and  the  fruits  of  it  show 
themselves  to-day  in  perfect  resignation  and  confidence. 
At  noon  we  reach  the  summit  of  a  mountain,  and  what  a 
change  awaits  us.  The  sun  shines,  the  cold  has  lost  its 
intensity  ;  we  have  in  view  an  immense  plain,  and  in  that 
plain  good  pasturages,  which  are  clouded  with  buffalos. 
The  encampment  slops,  the  hunters  assemble,  and  before 


ti 


«   Year's  Residence. 


195 


y  season, 
.V  fell  that 
arly  call- 
was  very 
an  usual, 
>vould  no 
ihe  plain, 
his  coun- 
(1,  ice,  or 
irforming 
i  St.  Ma- 
ll around 
s  of  them 
iled  their 
followed 
/as  tolled 
nday  was 
;ceptable 
in  a  very 
he  Jour- 

jh  wind, 
g  point; 
by  the 
g — food 
but  yes- 
it  show 
fidence. 
what  a 
lost  its 
in  that 
uflalos. 
before 


sunset  155  bufTalos  have  fallen  by  their  arrows.     One  must 
confess  that  if  this  hunt  were  7iot  miraculous,  it  bears  a 
great  resemblance  to  the  drauglit  of  fishes  made  by  Peter 
when  casting  his  net  at  thn  word  of  the  Lord,  he  drew  up 
153  fishes. — St.  John,  xxi.  11.     The  Flat  Heads  confided 
in  the  Lord,  and  were  equally   successful  in  killing  153 
bufTalos.     What  a  fine  draught  of  fishes!  but  what  a  glori- 
ous hunt  of  bufialos  !     Represent  to  yourself  an  immense 
amphitheatre  of  mountains,  the  least  of  which  exceeds  in 
height  Mont  Martre,  and  in  the  midst  of  this  majestic  enclo- 
sure a  plain   more  extensive  than  that  of  Paris,  and  on  this 
magnificent  plain  a  multitude  of  animals,  the  least  of  which 
surpasses  in  size  the  largest  ox  in  Europe.     Such  was  the 
park  in   which  our  Indians  hunted.     Wishing  to  pursue 
them,  continues  Father  Point,   in  his  journal,  1  urged  on 
my  horse  to  a  herd  of  fugitives,  and  as  he  was  fresh,  I  had 
no  difljculty  in  getting  up  to  them.     I  even  succeeded  in 
compelling    the    foremost    to  abandon    his  post,  but   en- 
raged, he  stopped  short,  and  presented  such  a  terrible  front, 
that  1  thought  it  more  prudent  to  open  a  passage  and  let 
him  escape.     I  acted  wisely,  as  on  the  same  day,  one  of 
these  animals,  in  his  fall,  overturned  a  horse  and  his  rider. 
Fortunately,  however,  the  latter  was  more  dexterous  than  I 
should  have  been  in  such  a  perilous  situation  ;  he  aimed  his 
blows  so  promptly  and   well,  that  of  the  three  who  were 
thrown,  only   two  arose.     On  another  occasion,  a  hunter 
who   had  been  also  dismounted,  had   no  other  means  to 
avoid  being  torn  to  pieces  than  to  seize  hold  of  the  animal 
by  the  horns  just  at  the  time  he  was  about  to  trample  him 
to  death.     A  third  hunter,  fieeingatall  speed,  felt  himself 
stopped  by  the  plaited  tail  of  his  horse  hooked  on  the  bufTa- 
lo's  horn  ;  but  both  fearing  a  trap,  made  every  eflTort  to  dis- 
eogage  themselves.     The  buffalo  hunt  is  attended  with 


.'1   ; 


M' 


! 


196 


Narrative  of 


1 

:   i 

y  I 

dangers,  but  the  greatest  of  these  does  not  consist  in  the 
mere  pursuit  of  the  animal,  but  proceeds  raiher  from  the 
bands  of  Black  Feet  who  coiisiautly  lurk  in  these  regions, 
especially  wiien  there  is  some  prospect  of  meeting  with 
the  larger  game,  or  stealing  a  number  of  horses.  Of  all  the 
mountain  savages  the  lilack  Feet  are  the  most  numerous, 
wicked,  and  the  greatest  thieves.  Happily,  however, 
from  having  been  olien  beaten  by  the  smaller  tribes,  they 
have  become  so  dastardly,  that  unless  iliey  are  twenty  to 
one,  they  confine  their  attacks  to  the  horses,  which,  thanks 
to  the  carelessness  of  their  courageous  enemies,  they  go 
about  with  so  much  dexterity  and  success,  that  tins  year, 
while  our  good  Flat  Heads  were  asleep,  they  discovered 
their  animals  as  olten  ;is  twenty  times,  and  carried  ofl'more 
than  one  hundred  of  then).  During  tlie  winter,  about 
twenty  of  tiiese  gentlemen  visited  the  Flat  lit  ads  in  the 
day  time,  and  without  stealing  any  thing,  but  in  this  man- 
ner. Theie  resided  in  the  camp  an  old  chief  of  the  Black 
Feet  tribe,  who  had  been  baptised  on  Christmas  day,  and 
named  Nicholas  ;  this  good  savage,  knowing  that  the  Mis- 
sionary would  willingly  hold  an  inlerview  with  his  breth- 
ren, undertook  hi(nseif  to  harangue  them  during  the  night, 
and  so  well  did  he  acquit  himself,  that  upon  the  calumet's 
being  planted  on  the  limits  of  the  camp,  and  the  messenger 
being  admitted  to  an  audience,  singing  was  heard  in  the 
neighboring  mountains,  and  soon  after  a  band  of  these  bri- 
gands issued,  armed  as  warriors,  from  the  gloomy  defile. 
They  were  received  as  friends,  and  four  of  the  principals 
were  ushered  into  the  [Missionary's  lodge  ;  they  smoked  the 
calumet  and  discussed  the  news  of  the  day.  The  Mission- 
ary spoke  of  the  necessity  of  prayer,  to  which  subject  they 
listened  most  attentively  ;  nor  did  they  manifest  either  sur- 
prise or  repugnance.     They  told  him  that  there  had  arrived 


St  in  the 
from  the 
regions, 
iiig  with 
31"  all  the 
jmerous, 
lovvever, 
es,  they 
veniy  to 
I,  thanks 
they  go 
lis  year, 
scovered 
oflmore 
r,  about 
Is  in  the 
lis  nian- 
e  Black 
lay,  and 
le  Mis- 
breth- 
night, 
umei's 


ssenger 


in  the 
e  bri- 
defile. 


OS 


nopals 
;ed  the 
ission- 
3t  they 
er  sur- 
rrived 


a  Yearns  Residence. 


197 


recently  in  one  of  their  forest?  a  man  who  was  not  married, 
and  who  wore  on  his  breast  a  large  crncifix,  read  every  day 
in  a  big  book,  and  made  the  sign  of  the  cross  before  eating 
any  thing;  and  in  fine,  that  ho  was  dressed  exactly  like  tlic 
Black-gowns  at  St.  Mary's.     The  Father  did  every  thing 
in  his  power  to  gain  their  good  will — after  which,  they  were 
conducted  to  the  best  lodge  in  the  encampment.     It  cer- 
taiidy  would  seem  that  such  hosts  were  worthy  of  better 
guests.     However,  towards  the  middle  of  the  night,  the  ex- 
plosion of  fire  arms  was   heard.     It  was  soon  discovered 
that  a  Flat  Head  was  firing  at  a  Black  VooX,  just  as  the  lat- 
ter was  leaving  the  camp,  taking  with  him  four  horses. — 
Fortunately,  the  robber  was  not  one  of  the  band  that  had 
been  received  within  the  encampment,  which,  upon  being 
proved,  far  from  creating  any  suspicion,  on  the  contrary,  had 
the  effect  of  their  kindly  offering  them  a  grave  for  the  unfor- 
tunate man.     But  whether  they  wished  to  appear  to  disap- 
prove of  the  deed,  or  that  they  anticipated  dangers  from  re- 
prisals, they  left  the  wolves  to  bury  the  body,  and  took  tlieir 
departure.     Good  Nicholas,  the  orator,  joined    them,    in 
order  to  render  the  same  services  to  the  others  that  he  had 
to  these.     He  went  off,  promising  to  return  soon   wiih  the 
evidences    of    his    success.     He    has    not  been    seen  as 
yet,   but  we  are  informed,  he    and  his  companions   have 
spoken  so  favorably  of  prayer,  and  the  Black-gowns,  that 
already   the   Sunday  is   religiously  observed  in  the  camp 
where  Nicholas  resides,  and  that  a    great  chief,  with  the 
people  of  sixty  lodges,  intend  shortly  to  make  our  acquain- 
tance, and  attach  themselves  to  the  Flat  Heads.     In  the 
meanwhile,  divine  justice  is  punishing  rigorously  a  num- 
ber of  their  robbers.     This  year,  the  Pierced  Noses  caught 
twelve  of  them  in  flagrant  faults,  and  killed  them.     About 

the  time  that  the  Black  Foot  above  mentioned  met  his  fate  at 

17* 


h^ 


\  ,« 


ijiii' 


if 

[if. 

i\ 


■  1 


1 


I 

M 


198 


Narrative  of 


ihe  hands  of  a  Flat  Head,  thirty  others  were  receiving 
the  reward  due  to  their  crimes,  from  the  Pends-d'oreilles 
tribe.  A  very  remarkable  fact  in  this  last  encounter  is, 
that  of  the  four  who  commenced,  and  the  others  who  fin- 
ished it,  not  one  fell ;  although,  in  order  to  break  in  on  the 
delin(iuenls,  who  were  retrenched  behind  a  kind  of  ram- 
part, they  were  oblij^ed  to  expose  themselves  to  a  brisk 
fire.  I  saw  the  lield  of  combat  some  tinte  alierwaids.  Of 
the   thirty  rol)bers    who  had   been   slain,  only  five  or  six 


heads  remained,  and  those  so  disfij 


to  lead 


to 


jaos  remaineo,  anu  tnose  so  uisngureu  as  lo  lean  one 
think  that  an  age  had  already  elapsed  since  their  dealii. 

Two  years  before,  the  same  tribe,  (I'ends-d'oreilles) 
assisted  by  the  Flat  Heads,  making  isi  all  a  baiui  of  seventy 
men,  stood  an  attack  ol  (ifieen  hundred  IJIack  Feel,  whom 
they  deleated,  killing  in  five  daNs,  during  whicli  time  the 
battle  bisied,  fifty  of  their  iocs,  without  losing  a  single 
man  on  their  side.  They  would  not  commence  liie  attack 
until  ibey  had  recited  their  prayers  on  their  knees.  A  few 
days  ago,  the  spot  was  pointed  out  to  me  where  six  Flat 
Heads  uitliJ-lood  IGO  IJIack  Feet  with  so  much  res(jluiion, 
that  with  a  hanill'iil  t)f  their  men  who  came  to  their  aid,  they 
gained  i'>e  victory.  The  niosl  peitiiiious  nation,  after  the 
Black  Ft  et,  is  the  Banac  tribe;  they  also  bear  the  Flat 
Heads  iiiucii  ill  will.  It  has  hap[)ened  more  than  once  that 
at  the  very  moment  the  Baisac  tiibe  were  receiving  the 
greatest  proofs  of  friendship  from  the  Fl;<l  Heads,  the 
former  were  ploiling  their  ruin.  Ol'  this  you  liave  already 
had  one  proof,  but  here  is  another.  One  day  a  detachment 
of  two  hundred  Banacs  visited  the  camp  of  the  Flat  Heads, 
and  afier  smoking  with  them  returned  .;>  their  encamp- 
ment. Tlie  small  number  of  the  Flat  Heads  had  not,  how- 
ever, escaped  their  notice,  and  they  determined  to  i^ke  ad- 
vantage of  their  apparent  weakness.     Accordingly,   they 


a  Year's  Residence. 


199 


receiving 
•d'oreilles 
lounler  is, 
3  who  fin- 
in  on  ihc 
d  of  ram- 

0  a  brisk 
aids.  Of 
ive  or  six 
ad  one  to 
deatli. 
I'oreilles) 
)f  seventy 
»'i,  whom 

1  lime  the 
',  a  single 
he  aliack 

A  lew 

six  Flat 

'Solution, 

aid,  they 

alter  the 

the  Flat 

)nce  thai 

vlwjT  the 

the 

already 

ai-hnient 

Heads, 

encamp- 

)t,  how- 

tnke  ad- 

y,   they 


u 


relraced  their  steps  that  very  nij^hl  to  execute  their  base 
designs.  IJut  the  chief,  named  iMidiael,  having  been 
advised  of  their  intention,  assembled  in  haste  his  twenty 
warriors,  and  after  entreating  them  to  conlide  in  Clod,  he 
rushed  on  these  traitors  so  happily  and  vigorously,  that  at 
the  first  shock  they  were  routed.  Already  nine  of  the  fu- 
gitives had  fallen,  ami  niorji  of  the  others  would  have 
shared  the  same  fate  if  Michael,  in  the  very  heat  of  the 
pursuit,  iiad  not  recollected  that  it  was  Sunday,  and  on 
that  account  stojiped  his  brave  companions,  sayiiiL' :  "  -My 
friends,  ii  is  now  the  time  for  prayer ;  we  must  retire  to  our 
camp."  It  is  by  these  and  similar  exploits,  whciein  the 
finger  of  God  is  visible,  that  the  Fiat  Heads  have  acquired 
such  a  [ei)uialion  for  valor,  that  notwithstanding,'  their  in- 
ferior numbers,  they  are  feared  much  more  t!ian  they  on 
their  side  dread  their  bitterest  enemies.  'I'hese  victories 
however  cannot  but  be  fatal  even  to  the  conquerors  ;  hence 
we  will  strive  to  inspire  all  with  the  love  of  peace,  which 
may  be  ai;coin()lished  if  each  party  remains  at  home.  For 
this  purpose  we  must  create  auiong  them  a  greater  taste  for 
agriculture  than  for  hunting.  But  how  can  we  comj)ass 
this  unlesis  the  same  measures  are  employed  for  the  mis- 
sions of  the  Itocky  Mountains  that  were  so  happily  adopted 
for  Paraguay.  If  the  true  friends  of  Religion  only  knew  of 
what  the  Inilians  who  surround  us  are  capable  when  once 
convertei-!,  1  can  not  doubt  but  that  they  would  assist  us  in 
our  eflforis  to  accomplish  so  beautiful,  so  advantageous  a 
psoject.  it  is,  moreover,  tiirough  the  Iroquois  of  the 
North,  whose  cruelty  formerly  exreedfd  that  of  the  Black 
Feet,  that  the  knowledge  of  the  true  Gud  came  to  the  Flat 
Heads,  and  awakened  amonifst  them  the  desire  of  j)Osses- 
sing  the  Bhuk-gowns.  We  have  seen  to  what  dangers  the 
good  Flat  Heads  exposed  themselves  to  obtain  Missiona- 


!'i 


vii 


P 


■i 

t 


W', 


Hi 


'!f: 


^ 


V 


200 


Narrative  of 


ries,  and  what  sacrifices  they  have  made  to  merit  the  title 
of  children  of  God  ;  and  now  what  is  tlieir  actual  progress  ? 
In  their  village,  enmities,  quarrels  and  calumnies,  are 
unknown ;  they  are  sincere  and  upright  amongst  them- 
selves, and  lull  of  confidence  in  their  Missionaries.  They 
carry  this  to  such  a  degree  that  they  place  implicit  reliance 
on  their  veracity,  and  cannot  suppose  that  they  have  any 
thing  else  in  view  but  their  happiness;  they  have  no  diffi- 
culty in  believing  the  mysteries  of  our  faith,  or  in  approach- 
ing the  tribunal  of  |)enance:  difficulties  which  appear 
insurmountable  to  the  pride  and  cowardice  of  many  civilized 
christians.  The  first  lime  they  were  asked  if  they  believed 
firmly  in  all  that  was  contained  in  the  Apostles'  creed,  they 
answered,  *' Yes — very  much."  When  they  were  spo- 
ken to  about  confession,  some  wished  it  to  be  public. — 
This  will  explain  to  you  how  it  happened  that  before  we 
resided  three  months  amongst  them  we  were  enabled  to 
baptize  all  the  adults,  and  four  months  later  to  admit  a  large 
number  to  frequent  communion.  There  are  whole  fami- 
lies who  never  let  a  Sunday  go  by  without  approaching 
the  holy  table.  Often  twenty  confessions  are  heard  conse. 
cutively  without  their  being  matter  for  absolution.  This 
year  we  performed  the  devotion  of  the  month  of  Mary,  and 
i  can  flatter  myself  that  the  exercises  were  attended  with  as 
much  piety  and  edification  as  in  the  most  devout  parishes 
of  Europe.  At  the  end  of  the  month  a  statue  was  borne  in 
triumph  to  the  very  place  where  our  Blessed  Mother  de- 
signed to  honor  us  with  the  aforementioned  apparition.— 
Since  that  day  a  sort  of  pilgrimage  has  been  established 
there,  under  the  name  of  "  Our  Lady  of  Prayer."  None 
pass  the  pious  monument  without  stopping  to  pray  on 
their  knees;  the  more  devout  come  regularly  twice  a  day  to 
speak  to  their  Mother  and  her  divine  Son,  and  the  children 


a  Yearns  Residence. 


201 


t  the  title 

)rogres8  ? 

lies,    are 

St   them- 

.     They 

t  reliance 

have  any 

no  tlifH- 

pproach- 

i   appear 

civilized 

believed 

ed,  they 

ere  spo- 

ublic. — 

(fore  we 

abled   to 

.  a  J  arge 

le  fami- 

oaching 

conse. 

This 

ry,  and 

with  as 

)arishes 

3rne  in 

her  de- 

tion. — 

blished 

None 

ray  on 

day  to 

lildren 


add  to  their  prayers  the  most  beautiful  (lowers  they  can  cull 
in  tiic  prairies. 

On  tlie  Feast  of  the  Sacred  Heart  we  made  use  of  this 
monument,  decorated  with  garlands  of  flowers,  as  a  reposi- 
tory, and  oui  people  received  for  llie  first  time,  llie  bene- 
diction of  the  blet^sed  sacrament ;  a  JKjppiness  which  ihey 
now  enjoy  every  Sunday  alter  vespers.  Some  of  ihem 
already  umlerstand  the  nutuie  of  the  devotion  of  t!ie  Sacred 
Heart.  To  I'-ropafrale  it  we  have  laid  the  Ibundalions  of 
several  societies,  of  which  all  the  most  viruu)u.s  men,  wo- 
men and  youn;j  [)L'ople  Iiave  become  ujembert!.  Victor,  the 
great  chid,  is  prefect  uf  one  of  these  associations,  and  Ag- 
nes his  wife  is  president  of  anaiher.  'I'hcy  wore  nol  elect- 
ed tlirough  any  defcreni'e  for  ihcir  dii,niity  or  birlli,  but 
solely  on  account  of  their  great  personal  (uerjis.  A  fact 
which  proves  ihal  the  Flat  Heads  regard  merii  more  than 
rank,  is,  that  the  place  of  great  chief  becoming  vacant  by 
the  death  of  Peter,  iliey  chose  for  his  successor  the  chief  of 
the  men's  society,  and  for  no  other  reason  did  he  obtain 
this  high  dignity  than  for  the  noble  qualities,  boih  of  heart 
and  head,  which  they  all  thoui^ht  he  possessed.  Every 
night  and  morning,  when  all  is  quiet  in  the  caujp,  he  ha- 
rangues the  people;  the  subject  of  his  discourse  being  prin- 
cipally  a  repetition  of  what  the  Black  Gowns  have  said  be- 
fore. This  good  chief  walks  faithfully  in  the  footsteps  of 
iiis  predecessor,  which  is  no  slight  praise,  'i'his  last,  who 
was  baptized  at  the  age  of  80,  and  admitted  to  communion 
in  his  82d  year,  was  the  first  to  deserve  this  double  favour, 
more  on  account  of  his  virtue  than  his  years.  The  day  of 
his  baptism  he  said  to  me,  "  If  during  my  life  I  have  com- 
mitted faults  they  were  those  of  ignorance  ;  it  appears  to  me 
that  I  never  did  any  thing,  knowing  it  to  be  wrong."  At  the 
time  of  his  first  communion,  which  preceded  his  death  but 


}• 


I; 

I 


■^ 


II 


41 

il 


f  i 

1  ' 

i 

i 

i 

: 
I 

■ 

il 

\ 

1      , 

) 

•J02 


Nanalive  of 


a  few  (lays,  hnvin|r  been  asked  if  iic  had  not  some  faults  with 
which  to  rpprv)ach  iiimself  since  his  baptism — "  Faidts," 
he  replied,  with  siirj)rise,  "  how  could  I  ever  commit  any, 
1  wiiosu  duly  it  is  to  leach  others  iiow  lo  do  good  ?"  He 
was  buried  in  the  red  drapery  he  was  accustomed  lo  hang 
out  on  Sunday  lo  announce  that  it  was  the  day  of  the  Lord. 
Alphonsus,  in  the  prime  of  youth  soon  followed  him.  He 
said  to  me  on  the  day  of  his  baptism  :  "  I  dread  so  much 
oirendiiig  again  the  Great  Spirit,  thai  1  beg  of  him  lo  grant 
me  the  grace  lo  die  soon."  He  fell  sick  a  few  days  after- 
wards and  expired  with  the  most  Chris. lan  dispositions, 
llianking  God  for  having  granted  his  praycrr  In  the  hope 
of  their  glorious  resurrection,  their  mortal  remains  have 
been  deposited  at  the  fool  of  the  large  cross. 

Of  twenty  persons  who  died  within  ihe  year,  we  have 
no  reason  to  fear  for  the  salvation  of  one. 

Not  having  been  able  this  ytv^x  to  obtain  either  provisions 
or  sufHcienl  clothes  to  supply  the  wants  of  cur  mission,  I 
started  for  Fort  Vancouver,  the  great  marl  of  the  honorable 
•Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  distant  about  one  thousand 
miles  from  our  eslablishmcnt.  Tiie  continuation  of  this 
narrative  will  show  you  that  this  necessary  journey  was 
provideniial.  1  found  myself  during  this  trip  a  second  lime 
amongst  the  Kalispel  tribe. 

They  continue  with  much  fervour  to  assemble  every 
morning  and  evening  to  recite  prayers  in  common,  and  ma- 
nifest the  same  attention  and  assiduity  in  listening  to  our 
instructions.  The  chiefs  on  their  side  are  incessant  in 
exhorting  the  people  to  the  practice  of  every  good  work. 
The  two  principal  obstacles  that  prevent  a  great  number 
from  receiving  baptism,  are — first,  the  plurality  of  wives; 
many  have  not  the  courage  to  separate  themselves  from 
those,  by  whom  they  have  children.     The  second  is  their 


aults  with 
'  Faults," 
tiinit  any, 
(1  ?"  He 
1  to  hang 
the  liord. 
lim.  Me 
so  inucli 
I  to  grant 
lys  after- 
positions, 
tiie  hope 
aitis  have 

we  have 

)rovisions 
ission,  1 
lonoiable 
thousand 
1  of  tliis 
ney  was 
ond  time 

le  every 
and  ma- 
g  to  our 
ssant  in 
d  work, 
number 
wives ; 
es  from 
is  their 


U 


a  rearms  Residtnce, 


203 


fondness  for  gambling,  in  which  they  risk  every  thing.  1 
baptized  CO  adults  amongst  them  during  this  last  journey. 
Crossing  a  beautiful  plain  near  the  Clarke  or  Flat  Head 
river,  called  the  Horse  prairie,  1  heard  that  there  were  30 
lodges  of  the  Skalzy  or  Ka;tenay  tribe,  at  about  two  day's 
journey  froju  us.  I  determined  whilst  awaiting  the  descent 
of  the  skill",  which  could  only  start  six  days  later,  to  pay 
them  a  visit,  for  they  had  never  seen  a  priest  in  their  lands 
before.  Two  half  breeds  served  as  my  guides  and  escorts 
on  this  occasion.  We  gallopped  and  trotted  all  the  day, 
travelling  a  distance  of  GO  miles.  We  spent  a  quiet  night 
in  a  deep  defile,  stretched  near  a  good  lire,  but  in  the  open 
air.  'i'he  next  day,  (Apiil  14)  after  having  traversed  seve- 
ral mountains  and  valleys,  where  our  horses  were  up  to 
their  knees  in  snow,  we  arrived  about  3  o'clock  in  sight  of 
the  KtEtenay  camp.  They  assembled  immediately  on  my 
approach  ;  when  I  was  about  twenty  yards  from  them,  the 
warriors  presented  their  arms,  which  they  had  hidden  until 
then  under  their  buffalo  robes.  They  fired  a  general  salute 
which  frightened  my  mule  and  made  her  rear  and  prance 
to  the  great  amusement  of  the  savages.  They  then  defiled 
before  me,  giving  their  hands  in  token  of  friendship  and 
congratulation.  I  observed  that  each  one  lifted  his  hand  to 
his  forehead  after  !)aving  presented  it  to  me.  I  soon  con- 
voked the  council  in  order  to  inform  them  of  the  object  of 
my  visit.  They  unanimously  declared  themselves  in  fa- 
vour of  my  religion,  and  adopted  the  beautiful  custom  of 
their  neighbours,  the  Flat  Heads,  to  meet  night  and  morn- 
ing for  prayers  in  common.  I  assembled  them  that  very 
evening  for  this  object  and  gave  them  a  long  instruction  on 
the  principal  dogmas  of  our  faith.  The  next  day,  I  bap- 
tized all  their  little  children  and  nine  of  their  adults,  previ- 
ously instructed,  amongst  whom  was  the  wife  of  an  Iroquois, 


i 
1 


i- 


if 


t     I* 


'0 

.1; 


I' 

Pi 


I 


204 


Narrative  of 


wljo  liad  resided  for  thirty  years  with  this  trilie.  The  Iro- 
quois ami  n('anadiiuj  occupy  thiMustlvcs  in  the  ahsnu'H  of 
a  |)ric«t  in  instru«:iiiip  them.  Aly  visit  rouhl  not  hv  lonjj, 
1  left  the  Kdlf nay  vill;ii;e  al)0»it  12  o'elock,  aeconijiiinied 
by  twelve  of  llicsfe  \varriors  and  some  half-hlood  C'rees, 
whom  I  had  lapiizid  in  18  10.  They  wisihed  to  escort  me 
to  the  entrance  ol  the  larj!c  Flat  Head  lake,  wilh  the  desire 
of  givin{r  nie  a  fareuell  feast ;  a  real  hanquft  of  all  the  good 
things  their  «()nntry  prodiieed.  The  \\arriors  had  gone  on 
ahead  and  (iis[ « r^ed  in  every  direciion,  ^owc  to  hunt  anil 
others  to  fish.  'I'lie  laller  only  purceeded  in  cat(diing  a 
single  trout.  'J'lie  waniorH  returned  in  the  evening  uiih  a 
bear,  gof'^'fi  find  six  swan's  eggs.  •'  Sed  quid  hoc  inter 
lantos."  'I'lie  (i>h  and  goof^e  were  ron^trd  before  a  good 
fire,  and  the  whole  mess  was  soon  prfsenud  to  nie.  Most 
of  my  companions  preferring  to  fast,  I  expressed  my  regret 
at  it,  consoling  rhem  however  by  telling  them  that  CJod 
would  certainly  reward  tiieir  kindness  to  nie.  A  nionunt 
after  we  heard  tli«.'  last  hunt(  r  returning,  whom  we  thought 
had  gone  back  to  the  camp.  Hope  t-hone  on  every  rourUe- 
iiance.  'J'he  wurrior  soon  appeared  laden  with  a  large  elk, 
and  hunger  that  night  was  banished  from  the  camp.  Each 
one  hegar)  to  occupy  himself;  some  cut  up  the  animal, 
others  heaped  iuel  on  the  lire,  and  prepared  sticks  and  spits 
to  roast  the  meat.  'J'he  feast  wjiich  had  commenced  under 
guch  poor  auspices  continued  a  great  part  of  tlie  night.  The 
\vl)ole  animal,  excepting  a  small  piece  that  was  reserved  for 
my  breakfast,  had  disappeared  before  they  retired  to  sleep. 
This  is  a  sample  of  savage  life.  The  Indian  when  he  has 
nothing  to  eat  does  not  complain,  but  in  the  midst  of  abun- 
dance he  knows  no  moderation.  The  stomach  of  a  savage 
has  always  been  to  me  a  riddle. 

The  plain  that  commands  a  view  of  the  lake  is  one  of  the 


riiP  Tro- 
sence  of 
bo  loiijr, 
tnjKiiiird 
J  C'rccs, 
scnrl  mc 
le  (Ics'ire 
ilie  good 
pone  on 
litint  :inil 
ilc.liin?  a 
ijT  wiili  a 
lioc  inter 
e  a  good 
e.    Most 
ny  regret 
I  hat  God 
moment 
ihmighl 
coiintfi- 
arge  elk, 
Each 
:ini(iiul, 
nd  spils 
d  under 
hi.  The 
3rved  (or 

0  sleep. 

1  he  has 
abun- 

savage 

ie  of  the 


a   Vear's  Hesidencc. 


205 


most  ferlih  in  the  mounlainouH  regions.  The  I'lal  Head 
rive  runs  through  it  and  exlends  more  than  '200  miU-s  to 
the  North  IilaHt.  It  is  wiilo  and  deep,  ahounihng  with  tish 
and  lined  with  wood,  principally  with  the  cotton,  a.«*pen, 
pine  and  birch.  There  arc  hemilirul  siti-s  for  villages,  but 
the  vicinity  of  the  Uladv  Feet  nuisi  ilelay  for  a  long  while 
the  good  work,  as  they  are  only  at  two  day's  march  I'rotn 
the  great  district  occupied  by  these  brigands,  Irom  whence 
they  often  issue  to  pay  their  ncighl)ours  predatory  visits. 
A  second  obstacle  would  be  the  great  distance  from  ajiy  post 
of  the  Hudson  Hay  Company  ;  consequently  the  dilliculty 
of  procuring  what  is  strictly  necessary.  'I "he  lake  is  highly 
romantic,  and  is  from  40  to  50  miles  long.  Mountainous 
and  rocky  it-lands  of  all  sizes  are  scattered  over  its  bosom, 
which  present  an  enchaniing  prospect.  These  islands  are 
filled  with  wild  horses.  liofty  mountains  surround  the 
lake  and  rise  from  its  very  brink. 

On  the  IGih  of  April,  after  bidding  adieu  to  my  travelling 
companions,  I  started  early  in  the  morning,  accompanied  by 
two  Canadians  and  two  savages.  'I'hat  evening  we  encamp- 
ed close  to  a  delightful  spring,  which  was  warm  and  sul- 
phurous ;  having  travelled  a  distance  of  about  fifty  miles. 
When  the  savages  reach  this  spring  they  generally  bathe 
in  it.  They  told  me  that  after  the  fatigues  of  a  long  jour- 
ney they  find  that  bathing  in  this  water  greatly  refreshes 
them.  I  found  here  ten  lodges  of  the  Kalispel  tribe  ;  the 
chief,  who  was  by  birth  of  the  Pierced  Nose  tribe,  invited 
me  to  spend  the  night  in  his  wigwam,  where  he  treated  me 
most  hospitably.  This  was  the  only  small  Kalispel  camp 
that  1  had  as  yet  met  in  my  journeys.  I  here  establish- 
ed, as  I  have  done  wherever  1  stopped,  the  custom  of  morn- 
ing and  evening  prayers.  During  the  evening  the  chief 
who  had  looked  very  gloomy,  made  a  public  exposition  of 

18 


fv 


I 


^! 


4 


206 


Narrative  of 


his  whole  life.     *'  Black  Gown,"  said  he,  ♦'  you  find  your- 
self  in  the  lodge  of  a  most  wicked   and  unhnppy  man;  all 
ihe  evil  that  a  man  could  do  on  earili,  I  believe  I  have  been 
guilty  of:  I  have  even  assassinated  several  of  my  near  rela- 
tions ;  since  then,  there  is  nought  in  my  heart  but  trouble, 
bitterness  and  remorse.     Why  does  not  the  Great  Spirit 
annihilate  me?     I  still  possess   life,  but  there  will  be  nei- 
ther pardon  nor  mercy  for  me  afier  death."     These  words 
and  the  feeling  manner  with  which  they  were  addressed  to 
me  drew  tears  of  compassion  from  my  eyes.     "Poor,  un- 
fortunate man,"  I  replied,  •'  you  are  really  to  be  pitied,  but 
you  increase  your  misery  by  thinking  that  you  cannot  ob- 
tain pardon.     The  devil,  man's  evil  spirit,  is  the  author  of 
this  bad  thought.     Do  not  listen  to  him,  for  he  would  wish 
to  precipitate  you  into  that   bad  place  (hell).     The  Great 
Spirit  who  created  you  is  a  Father  infinitely  good  and  mer- 
ciful.    He  does  not  desire  the  death  of  the  sinner,  but  la- 
ther that  he  shonid  be  converted  and  live.     He  receives  us 
into  his  favour  and  forgets  our  crimes,  notwithstanding  their 
number  and  enormity,  the  moment  we  return  to  Him  con- 
trite and  repentant.     He  will  also  forgive  you  if  you  walk 
in   the  path  which   His  only  Son,  Jesus  Christ,  came  on 
earth  to  trace  for  us."    I  then  recounted  the  instance  of  the 
good  thief  and  the  parable  of  the  prodigal  son.    I  made  him 
sensible  of  the  proof  of  God's  goodness  in  sending  me  to 
him.     I  added  that  perhaps  his  life  was  drawing  to  a  close, 
and  that  he  might  be  in  danger  of  falling  into  the  bad  place 
on  account  of  his  sins;  that  I  would  show  him  the  right 
path,  which  if  he  followed  he  would  certainly  reach  Hea- 
ven. These  few  words  were  as  balm  poured  on  his  wound- 
ed spirit.     He  became  calmer,  and  joy  and  hope  appeared 
on  his  countenance.  '•  Black  Gown,"  said  he,  *'  your  words 
re-animate  me:    I  see,  I  understand  belter  now,  you  have 


^;!  ' 


ind  your- 
man  ;  all 
lave  been 
near  rela- 
it  trouble, 
eat  Spirit 
11  be  nei- 
se  words 
Jressed  to 
Poor,  iin- 
)itied,  but 
•annot  ob- 
auihor  of 
ould  wish 
flic  Great 
J  and  mer- 
er, but  la- 
eceives  us 
iding  their 
Him  con- 
you  walk 
,  came  on 
nee  of  the 
made  him 
ing  me  to 
to  a  close, 
3ad  place 
the  right 
each  Hea- 
ls wound- 
appeared 
our  words 
you  have 


a   Fear's  liesidence. 


207 


consoled  me,  you  have  relieved  me  from  a  burden  that 
was  crushing  me  vvilh  its  weiglit,  for  I  thougut  myself  lost. 
1  will  follow  your  directions  ;  I  will  learn  how  to  pray. 
Yes,  I  feel  convinced  that  the  Great  Spinl  wil!  have  pity 
on  me."  There  was  foitunaitly  in  the  camp  a  young  man 
who  knew  all  the  prayers,  and  was  willing  to  serve  as  his 
caiechist.  His  baptism  was  deferred  until  the  autumn  or 
winter. 

The  results  of  my  visit  l(»  the  Pointed  Hearts  were 
very  consoling.  They  form  a  small  but  interesting  tribe, 
animated  with  much  fervour. 

As  soon  as  they  were  certain  of  my  visit,  they  deputed 
couriers  in  every  direction  to  inform  the  savages  of  the 
approach  of  the  Black-gown;  and  all,  without  exceptioR, 
assembled  at  the  outlet  of  the  great  lake  which  bears  their 
name,  and  which  was  the  place  I  had  indicated.  An  inge- 
nuous joy,  joined  to  wonder  and  contentment,  shone  on 
every  face  when  they  saw  me  arrive  in  the  midst  of  them. 
Every  one  hastened  to  greet  me.  It  was  the  first  visit  of 
the  kind  they  had  received,  and  the  following  is  the  order 
they  observed.  Their  chief's  and  old  men  marched  at  the 
head  ;  next  came  the  young  men  and  boys  ;  then  followed 
the  women — mothers,  young  girls,  and  little  children.  I 
was  conducted  in  triumph  by  this  multitude  to  the  lodge  of 
the  great  cluef.  Here,  as  every  where  else  in  the  Indian 
country,  the  everlasting  calumet  was  fi;st  produced,  which 
went  round  two  or  three  times  in  the  most  profound  si- 
lence. 'J'he  chief  then  addressed  me,  saying:  "Black- 
gown  you  are  most  welcome  amongst  us.  We  thank  you 
for  your  charity  towards  us.  For  a  long  time  we  have 
wished  to  see  you,  and  hear  the  words  which  will  give  us 
understanding.  Our  fathers  invoked  the  sun  and  earth.  I 
recollect  very  well  when  the  knowledge  of  the  true  and  one 
God  came  amongst  them  ;  since  which  time  we  have  offered 


1 


ffff 

if. 

w 

1 

If. 

1                           .  ■^ 

1       "''         5208                             Narrative  of  a 

i 

10  Him  our  prayers  and  vows.     We   are  however  to   be 

1 

1                    pitied.     We  do  not  know  the  word  of  the   Great  Spirit. 

All  is  dariiness  as  yet  to  us,  but  to-day  I  hope  we  shall  see 

%  $ 


^\ 


\-: 


acl 


■gown, 


lave  done — every 


one  IS  anxious  to  liear  you."     I   spoke  to  them   for  two 
hours  0.1   salvation  and    end    of  man's   creation,    and  not 
one  person  stirred  from  his  place  the  whole  time  of  the 
instruction.     As  it  was  almost  sunset,  I  recited  the  prayers 
that  I  liad  translated  into  their  language  a  few  days  before. 
After  vvhifh  I  took  some  refreshments,  consisting  of  frag- 
ments of  dried  meal,  and  a  piece  of  cooked  moss,  tasting 
like  soap,  and  as  black  as  pilch.     All  this  however  was  as 
grateful   to  my  palate  as  though    it  had  been    honey  and 
sugar,  not  having  eaten   a  mouthful  since  day-break.     At 
their  own  request  I  then  continued  instructing  the  chiefs 
and  their  people  until  the  night  was  far  advanced.     About 
every  half  hour    I  paused,  and  then  the  pipes  would    pass 
around  to  refresh  the  listeners  and  give  time  for  reflection. 
It  was  during  these  intervals  that  the  chiefs  conversed  on 
what  they    had  heard,   and    instructed    and   advised  their 
followers.    On  awakening  the   next   morning,  I  was  sur-. 
prised  to  find  my  lodge  already  filled  with  people.     They 
had  entered  so  quietly  that  I  had  not  heard  them.     It  was 
hardly  day -break   when  I  arose,  and  they  all  following  my 
example,  placed  lliemselves  on  their  knees,  and  we  made 
together  the  ofl*ering  of  our  liearts  to  God,  with  that  of  the 
actions  of  the  day.     After  this  the  Chief  said:  "Black- 
gown,  we  come  here  very  early  to  observe  you — we  wish 
to  imitate  what  you  do.     Your  prayer  is  good ;  we  wish  to 
adopt  it.     But  you  will  leave  us  after  two  nights  more,  and 
we  have  no  one  to  teach  us  in  your  absence."     I  had  the 
bell  rung  for  morning  prayers,  promising  him  at  the  same 
time  that  the  prayers  should  be  known  before  I  left  them. 


>*.< 


H 


a  Yearns  Residence. 


209 


er  to   be 
at  Spirit, 
shall  see 
5 — every 
for  two 
and  not 
e  of  the 
prayers 
5  before, 
of  frag- 
.  tasting 
r  was  as 
[ley  and 
ak.     At 
e  chiefs 
About 
Id    pass 
flection, 
rsed  on 
d  their 
as  sur- 
They 
It  was 
ng  my 
made 
of  the 
Black- 
B  wish 
vish  to 
e,  and 
id  the 
same 
them. 


After  a  long  instruction  on  the  most   important  truths   of 
relision,  I  collected  around  me  all  the  litile  children,  with 
the  young  boys  and  girls  ;  I  chose  two  from  among  the  lat- 
ter, to  whom  I  taught  the  Hail  Mary,  assigning  to  each  one 
his  own  particular  part;  then  seven  for  the  Our  Father; 
ten  others  for  the  Commandments,  and  twelve  for  the  Apos- 
tles' Creed.     This  method,  which  was  my  first  trial  of  it, 
succeeded    admirably.     I   repealed   to   each   one  his   part 
until  he  knew  it  perfectly  ;  1  then  made  him  repeat  it  five 
or  six  times.     These  little  Indians,  forming  a  triangle,  re- 
sembled   a   choir  of  angels,    and    recited    their    prayers, 
to  the  great  astonishment  and  satisfaction  of  the  savages. 
They  continued   in  this  manner  morning  and  night,  anlil 
one  of  the  chiefs  learned  all  the  prayers,  which  he  then  re- 
peated in  public.     I  spent  three  days  in  instructing  them. 
I  would  have  remained  longer,  but  the  savages  were  with- 
out provisions.     There  was  scarcely  enough  (or  one  per- 
son in  the  whole  ca  np.     My  own  provisions  were  nearly 
out,  and  I  was  still  four  days'  journey  from  Fort  Coleviile. 
The  second  day  of  my  stay  among  them,  I   baptized  all 
their  small  children,  and  tlien  twenty-four  adults,  who  were 
infirm  and  very  old.     It  appeared  as  though  God  had  re- 
tained these  good   old  people  on  earth   to  grant  them  the 
inexpressible  happiness  of  receiving  the  sacrament  of  bap- 
tism before  their  death.     They  seemed  by  their  transports 
of  joy  and  gratitude  at  this  moment,  to  express  that  senti- 
ment of  the  Scripture :  "  My  soul  is  ready,  O  God,  my 
soul  is  ready."     Never  did  I  experience  in  my  visits  to  the 
savages  so  much  satisfaction  as  on  this  occasion,  not  even 
when  I  visited  the  Flat  Heads  in    1840;  nor  have  I  else- 
where seen  more  convincing  proofs  of  sincere  conversion  to 
God.     May  He  grant  them  to  persevere  in  their  virtuous 

reoolulions.     Rev.  Father  Point  intends  passing  the  winter 

18* 


■1 

I  ;  ! 


J,  'tit 


I: 


!•:. 


ii 


.1  ' 


u 


r  i' 


1 

<> 

■  i 

![ 

■  I  t 

■  i 

; 

^|:| 

I 

m 

i 

4'i 


i 


!     1 


.  m- 


210 


Narrative  of 


with  them  to  confirm  them  in  their  faith.     After  some  ad- 
vice and  salutary  regulations,  1  left  this  interesting  colony, 
and  I  must  acknowledge,  with  heartfelt  regret.     The  great 
chief  allowerl  himself  scarcely  a  moment's  repose  for  three 
nights  I  spent  amongst  them  ;  he   would  rise  from  time  to 
time  to  harangue  the  people,  and  repeat  to  them  all  he  was 
able  to  remember  of  the  instructions  of  the  day.     During 
the  whole  time  of  my  mission,  he  continued  at  my  side,  so 
anxious  was  he  not  to  lose  a  single  word.     The  old  chief, 
now  in  his  eightieth  year,  was  baptized   by  the  name  of 
Jesse,     In  the  spring  the  territory  of  this  tribe  enchants  the 
traveller  who  may  happen  to  traverse  it.     It  is  so  diversi- 
fied  with  noble  plains,  and  enamelled  with  flowers,  whose 
various  forms  and  colors  offer  to  experienced  botanists  an 
interesting /jar/crre.     These  plains  are  surrounded  by  mag- 
nificent forests  of  pine,  fir  and  cedar.     To  the  west  their 
country  is  open,  and  the  view  extends  over  several  days' 
journey.     To  the  south,  east  and  north,  you  see  towering 
mountains,  ridge  rising  above  ridge,  robed  with  snow,  and 
mingling  their  summits  with  the  clouds,  from  which,  at  a 
distance,  you  can  hardly  distinguish  them.     The  lake  forms 
a  striking  feature  in   this  beautiful  prospect,  and  is  about 
thiity  miles  in  circumference.     It  is  deep,  and  abounds  in 
fish,  particularly  in  salmon  trout,  common  trout,  carp,  and 
a  small,  oily  fish,  very  delicious,  and  tasting  like  the  smelt. 
The  Spokan  river  rises  in  the  lake,  and  crosses  the  whole 
plain  of  the  Coeur  d'Alenes.    The  valley  that  borders  above 
the  lake  is  from  four  to  five  miles  wide,  exceedingly  fertile, 
and  the  soil  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  deep.     Every  sj)ring,  at 
the  melting  of  the  snow,  it  is  subject  to  inundations,  which 
scarcely  ever  last  longer  than  four  or  five  days;  at  the  same 
time  augmenting,  as  in  Egypt,  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  The 
potatoe  grows  here  very   well,  and  in  great  abundance. 


1 1 


a  Yearns  Residence. 


211 


The  Spokan  river  is  wide,  swift  and  deep  in  the  spring, 
and  contains,  like  all   the  rivers  of  Oregon,  many   rapid 
falls  and  cascades.     The  navigation  of  the  waters  of  this 
immense  territory   is    generally  dangerous,  and   few  risk 
themselves  on  them  without  being  accompanied  by  expe- 
rienced pilots.     In  descending  Clark's  river,  we  passed  by 
some   truly    perilous   and    remarkable  places,    where    the 
pilots  have  full   opportunity  to  exhibit  their  dexterity  and 
prudence.     The  rapids  are  numerous,  and  the  roar  of  the 
waters  incessant,  the  current  sweeping  on  at   the  rate  of 
ten  or  twelve  miles  an  hour ;  the  rugged  banks  and  project- 
ing rocks  creating  waves  resembling  those  of  the  troubled 
sea.     The  skilful  pilot   mounts  the   waves,    which   seem 
ready  to  engulf  us,  the  canoe  speeds  over  the  agitated  wa- 
ters, and  with  the  aid  of  the  paddle,  skilfully   plied,  bears 
us  unharmed  through  numberless  dangers.     The  most  re- 
markable spot  on  this  river  is  called  the  cabinets  ;  it  con- 
sists  of  four  apartments,  which  you  have  hardly  time  to 
examine,   as  yon  are  scarcely  half  a  minute  passing   by 
them.     Represent  to  yourself  chasms   between  two  rocky 
mountains  of  a  stupendous  height,  the  river  pent  in  be- 
tween them  in  a  bed  of  thirty  or  forty  feet,  precipitating 
itself  down  its  rocky  channel  with  irresistible  fury,  roaring 
against    its   jagged    sides,   and    whitening    with    foam   all 
around  it.     In  a  short  space  it  winds  in  four  different  di- 
rections, resembling  very  much,  forked  lightning.     It  re- 
quires very  great  skill,  activity,  and  presence  of  mind,  to 
extricate  yourself  from    this  difTicult  pass.     The  Spokan 
lands  are  sandy,  gravelly,  and  badly  calculated  for  agricul- 
ture.    The  section  over  which  1  travelled  consisted  of  im- 
mense plains  of  light,  dry,  and  sandy  soil,  and  thin  forests 
of  gum  pines.     We  saw  nothing  in  this  noiseless  solitude 
but  a  buck,   running   quickly  from  us,  and  disappearing 


•« 


1 1 


S 


t! 


I  ii 


till 


212 


Narrative  of 


il 


,  1 


1:1 

■I  u 

i 


\ir' 


almost  immediately.  From  time  to  time,  the  melancholy 
and  piercing  cry  of  the  wood  snipe  increased  the  gloomy 
thoughts  which  this  sad  spot  occasioned.  Here,  on  a  gay 
and  smiling  little  plain,  two  miriisters  have  settled  them- 
selves, with  their  wives,  who  had  consented  to  share  their 
husbands'  soi-disant  apostolical  labors.  During  the  four 
years  they  have  spent  here,  they  have  baptized  several  of 
their  own  children.  They  cultivate  a  small  farm,  large 
enough,  however,  for  their  own  maintenance  and  the  sup- 
port of  their  animals  and  fowls.  It  appears  they  arefearful 
that,  should  they  cultivate  more,  they  might  have  too  fre- 
quent visits  from  the  savages,  'i'hey  even  try  to  prevent 
their  encampment  in  their  immediate  neighborhood,  and 
therefore  they  see  ?nd  converse  but  seldom  with  the 
heathens,  whom  they  have  come  so  far  to  seek.  A  band 
of  Spokans  received  me  with  every  demonstration  of  friend- 
ship, and  were  enchanted  to  hear  that  the  right  kind  of 
Black-gowns  intended  soon  to  form  an  establishment  in  the 
vicinity.  I  baptized  one  of  their  little  children  who  was 
dying. 

It  was  in  these  parts  that  in  1836  a  modern  Iconaclast, 
named  Parker,  broke  down  a  cross  erected  over  the  grave  of 
a  child  by  some  Catholic  Iroquois,  telling  us  emphatically, 
in  the  narrative  of  his  journey,  that  ho  did  not  wish  to 
leave  in  that  country  an  emblem  of  idolatry. 

Poor  man  ! — not  to  know  better  in  this  enlightened  age  ! 
Were  he  to  return  to  these  mountains,  he  would  hear  the 
praises  of  the  Holy  Name  of  Jesus  resounding  among 
them;  he  would  hear  the  Catholics  chaunting  the  love  and 
mercies  of  God  from  the  rivers,  lakes,  mountains,  prairies, 
forests  and  coasts  of  the  Columbia.  He  would  behold  the 
Cross  planted  from  shore  to  shore  for  the  space  of  a  thou- 
sand miles — on  the  loftiest  height  of  the  Pointed  Heart  ter* 


k 


a  Yearns  Residence. 


213 


ically, 
ish  to 

age! 
»r  the 
imong 
e  and 
lirics, 
(1  the 
ihou- 
l  ter- 


ritory ,  on  the  towering  chain  which  separates  the  waters 
of  the  Missouri  from  the  Columbia  rivers  ;  in  the  plains  of 
the  Wallamelte,  Cowlitz  and  IJiiter  lioot — and,  whilst!  am 
writing  to  you,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Demers  is  occupied  in  plant- 
ing this  same  sacred  symbol  amongst  the  diU'erent  tribes  of 
New  Caledonia.  The  words  of  Him  who  said  tliat  this 
lioly  sign  ivoiild  draw  all  men  to  J/lmse/f.  begin  to  be  ve- 
rified with  regard  to  the  poor  destitute  sheep  of  this  vast 
continent.  Were  he  who  destroyed  that  solitary,  humble 
Cross  now  to  return,  he  would  find  the  image  of  Jesus 
Christ  crucified,  borne  on  the  breast  of  more  than  4000  In- 
dians ;  and  the  smallest  child  would  say  to  him :  "Mr. 
Parker,  we  do  not  adore  the  croj^s ;  do  not  break  it,  be- 
cause it  reminds  us  of  Jesus  Christ  who  died  on  the  cross 
to  save  us — we  adore  God  alone." 

In  the  beginning  of  May  I  arrived  at  Fort  Coleville  on 
the  Coleville  river  ;  this  year  the  snow  melted  away  very 
early.  The  mountain  torrents  had  oveiflowed,  and  the 
small  rivers  that  usually  moved  quietly  along  in  the  month 
of  April,  had  suddenly  left  their  beds  and  assumed  the  ap- 
pearance of  large  rivers  and  lakes,  completely  flooding  all 
the  lowlands.  This  rendered  my  journey  to  Vancouver  by 
land  impossible,  and  induced  me  to  wait,  nolens  volens,  at 
the  Fort,  for  the  construction  of  the  barges  which  were  not 
ready  untd  the  30th  of  the  same  month,  when  1  was  again 
able  to  pursue  my  journey  on  the  river.  On  the  same  day 
that  I  arrived  among  the  Shuyelpi  or  Chaudiere  tribe,  who 
resided  near  the  Fort,  I  undertook  to  translate  our  prayers 
into  their  language.  This  kept  me  only  one  day  as  their 
language  is  nearly  the  came  as  that  of  the  Flat  Heads  and 
Kalispels,  having  the  same  origin.  They  were  all  very 
attentive  in  attending  my  instructions,  and  the  old,  as  well 
as  the  young,  tried  assiduously  to  learn  their  prayers.     I 


^ 


A  . 


III 


4 


IV 


214 


Narrative  of 


!'■ 


!!!  !'■! 


f 
V'. 

I. 


baptized  all  ihe  younger  children  who  had  not  received  the 
sacrament  before,  for  Mr.  Uemers  had  already  made  two 
excursions  amongst  them,  with  the  most  gratifying  suc- 
cess. The  great  chief  and  his  wife  had  long  sighed  for  bap- 
tism, whicji  holy  sai'ramcnt  I  administered  to  them,  nam- 
ing them  Martin  and  Mary.  This  chief  is  one  of  the  most 
intelligent  and  pious  I  have  become  acquainted  with. 

Tlie  work  of  God  does  not,  however,  proceed  without  con- 
tradictions; it  is  necessary  to  prepare  oneself  for  tlicm  before- 
hand when  undertaking  any  enterpiise  amongst  the  tribes. 
I  have  had  some  hard  trials  in  all  my  visits.  I  expected 
them,  when  on  the  13ih  of  May,  I  slatted  to  see  the  Oki- 
nakane  tribe,  who  were  desirous  to  meet  a  priest.  The  in- 
terpreter, Charles,  and  the  chief  of  the  Shuyelpi,  wished 
to  accompany  me.  In  crossing  the  Columbia  river  my  mule 
returned  to  the  shore,  and  ran  at  full  speed  into  the  forest; 
Charles  pursued  her,  and  two  hours  afterwards  I  was  told 
that  he  had  been  found  dead  in  the  prairie.  I  hastened  im- 
mediately, and  perceived  from  a  distance  a  great  gathering 
of  people.  I  soon  reached  the  spot  where  he  was  lying,  and, 
lo  my  great  joy,  perceived  that  he  gave  signs  of  life.  He  was 
however,  senseless,  and  in  a  most  pitiful  state.  A  copious 
bleeding  and  some  days  of  rest  restored  him  and  we  resum- 
ed our  journey.  This  time  the  mule  had  a  large  rope  tied 
around  her  neck,  and  we  crossed  the  river  without  any  ac- 
cidents ;  we  took  a  nariow  path  that  led  us  by  mountains, 
valleys,  forests  and  prairies,  following  the  course  of  the 
river  Sharameep.  'I'o wards  evening  we  were  on  the  bor- 
ders of  a  deep  impetuous  torrent,  having  no  other  bridge 
than  a  tree  which  was  rather  slight  ind  in  constant  motion 
from  the  rushing  of  the  waters.  It  reminded  me  of  the 
bridge  of  souls  spoken  of  in  the  Potowattamie  legends. 
These  savages  believe  that  souls  must  traverse  this  bridge 


iceived  the 
made  two 
fying  siic- 
id  for  bap- 
ern,  nam- 
f  the  most 
ill). 

iliout  con- 
cm  before- 
ihe  tribes, 
expected 
I  the  Oki- 
.  Tlie  in- 
li,  wished 
•  my  mule 
')e  forest ; 
[  was  told 
tened  im- 
gaihering 
•ing,  and, 
He  was 
copious 
^e  resum- 
rope  tied 
any  ac- 
Duntainsi, 
56  of  the 
the  bor- 
r  bridge 
t  motion 
B  of  the 
legends. 
s  bridge 


•  ! 


a  Yearns  Beshhnce. 


215 


before  they  reach    their  olysium  in  the  west.     The  good, 
they  say,  pass  over  it  wiihoiitdanger ;  the  had,  on  the  con- 
trary, are  unable  to  hold  on,   but  stumble,  slatjG^er  and  fall 
into  the  torrent  below,  wiiich  sweeps  them  oH"  into  a  laby- 
rinth of  lakes  and  marshes;  here  they  drag  out  their  exis- 
tence; wretched,  tornienled  by  famine  and  in  great  agony, 
the  living  prey  of  all  sorts  of  venomous  reptiles  and  fero- 
cious animals,  wandering  to  and  fro  without  ever  being  able 
to  escape.     We  were  fortunate   enough  to  cross  the  trem- 
bling bridge  without  accident.     We  soon  pitched  our  camp 
on  the  other  side,  and  in  spile  of  the  warring  waves   which 
in  falls  and  cascades  thundered  all  night  by  our  side,   we 
enjoyed  a  refreshing  sleep.     The  greater  part  of  the  next 
day  the  path  conducted  us  through  a  thick  and  hilly  forest 
of  fir  trees;  the  country  then  became  more  undulating  and 
open.     From  time  to  time   we  perceived  an   Indian  burial 
ground,  remarkable  only  for  the  posts  erected  on  the  graves, 
and  hung    with   kettles,  wooden   plates,  guns,  bows  and 
arrows,  left  there  by  the  nearest  relatives  of  the  deceased — 
humble  tokens  of  their  grief  and  friendship. 

We  encamped  on  the  shore  of  a  small  lake  called  the 
Sharrameep,  where  was  a  Shuyelpi  village;  I  gave  these 
savages  several  instructions  and  baptized  their  infants.  At 
my  departure  the  whole  village  accompanied  me.  The 
country  over  which  we  travelled  is  open  ;  the  soil,  ste- 
rile and  sandy,  and  the  different  chains  of  mountains  that 
traverse  it  seem  to  be  nothing  but  sharp  pointed  rocks, 
thinly  covered  with  cedars  and  pines.  Towards  evening 
we  came  up  with  the  men  of  the  first  Okinekane  encamp- 
ment, who  received  us  with  the  greatest  cordiality  and  joy. 
The  chief  who  came  out  to  meet  us  was  quite  conspicuous, 
being  arrayed  in  his  couit  dress — a  shirt  made  of  a  horse 
skin,  the  hair  of  which  was  outside,  the  mane  partly  on  his 


hi 


ir 


' 


I 


I  '*! 


210 


Narrative  of 


chest  and  back,  giving  him  a  truly  fantastic  and  savage  ap- 
pearance. The  camp  also  joined  us,  and  the  fact  of  my 
arrival  having  been  soon  noised  abroad  in  every  direction, 
we  saw,  issuing  from  the  defiles  and  narrow  passes  of  the 
mountains,  bands  of  Indians  who  had  gone  forth  to  gather 
their  harvest  of  roots.  Many  sick  were  presented  to  me 
for  baptism,  of  which  rite  they  already  knew  the  impor- 
tance. Before  reaching  the  rendezvous  assigned  us,  on  the 
borders  of  the  Okinakane  lake,  I  was  surrounded  by  more 
than  200  horsemen,  and  more  than  200  others  were  already 
in  waiting.  Wo  recited  ♦ogeiher  night  prayers,  and  all 
listened  with  edifying  attention  to  the  instruction  [  gave 
them.  The  interpreter  and  Martin  continued  the  religious 
conversation  until  the  night  was  far  advanced  ;  they  mani- 
fested the  same  anxiety  to  hear  the  word  of  God  that  the 
Stiel  Shoi  had  shown.  All  the  next  day  was  spent  iu  pray- 
er, instructions  and  hymns — I  baptized  106  children  and 
some  old  people,  and  in  conclusion  named  the  plain  where 
these  consoling  scenes  occurred,  the  "  plain  of  prayer."  it 
would  be  impossible  forme  to  give  you  an  idea  of  the  pie- 
ty, the  happiness  of  these  men,  who  are  thirsting  for  the 
life-living  waters  of  the  Divine  word.  How  much  good  a 
missionary  could  do,  who  would  reside  in  the  midst  of  a 
people  who  are  so  desirous  of  receiving  instruction,  and 
correspond  so  faithfully  with  the  grace  of  God.  After 
some  regulations  and  advice,  I  left  this  interesting  people, 
and  pursuing  my  journey  for  three  days  over  mountains 
and  through  dense  forests,  arrived  safely  atj  Fort  Cole- 
ville. 

Amongst  the  innumerable  rivers  that  traverse  the  Ameri- 
can continent,  and  afi'ord  means  of  communication  between 
its  most  distant  portions,  the  Columbia  river  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable,  not  only  on  account  of  its  great  impor- 


n 


ii 

rj 


'  •; 


a   Year's  Residence, 


217 


Lmeri- 
|t\veen 

of  the 
Impor- 


i 


tancc,  west  of  tlic  mountains,  but  also  from  tlic  dangers  that 
attend  its  n»^'igation.  At  sonic  ilistanco  from  the  Pacific 
ocean,  crossing  a  territory  which  exhibits,  in  several  loca- 
lities, evident  marks  of  former  volcanic  eruptions,  its  course 
is  fre(|iiently  impeded  hy  rapids,  by  chains  of  volcanic 
rocks,  and  immense  detached  masses  of  the  same  substance 
which,  in  many  places,  obstruct  the  bed  of  the  river. 

I  embarked  on  tliis  river,  on  the  30lh  of  May,  in  one  of 
the  barges  of  the  Hudson  Hay  Company  ;  INIr.  Ogden,  one 
of  the  principal  proprietors,  oflered  me  a  place  in  his.     I 
shall  never  forget  tiie  kindness  and  friendly  manner  with 
which   this  gentleman  treated  me  throughout  the  journey, 
nor  the  many  agreeable  hours  I  spent  in  his  company.     I 
found  his  conversation  instructive,  his  anecdotes  and  bon 
mots  entertaining  and  timely;  it  was  with  great  regret  that 
I  parted  from  him.     I  will  not  detain  you  with  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  rapids,  falls  and  cascades,  which  I  saw  on  this 
celebrated  river ;  for,  from  its  source  in  the  mountains  to 
the  cascades  it  is  but  a  succession  of  dangers.     I  will  en- 
deavour,  however,  to  give  you   some  idea  of  one  of  its 
largest  rapids,  called  by   the  Canadian  travellers,  "  great 
dalles."     A  dalle  is  a  place  where  the  current  is  confined 
to  a  channel  between  two  steep  rocks,  forming  a  prolonged 
narrow  torrent,  but  of  extraordinary  forci  and  swiftness. 
Here  the  river  is  divided  into  several  channels  separated  from 
one  another  by  masses  of  rocks,  which  rise  abruptly  above 
its  surface.  Some  of  these  cl'.annels  are  navigable  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year,  although  with  very  great  risk,  even  to 
the  most  experienced  pilot.    But  when,  after  the  melting  of 
the  snow,  the  river  rises  above  its  usual  level,  the  waters 
in  most  of  these  channels   make  but  one  body,  and  the 
whole  mass  of  these  united  streams  descend  with  irresisti- 
ble fury.     At  this  season  the  most  courageous  dare  not  en- 

19 


't 

p 

k 

* 

■'¥ 

', 

:y*- 

'.■4 

;i?''' 

,,).,- 

n 

i-  ^ 

f' ! 

i 

I:'': 

i.  f 

J 

}ll 

'^18 


Xarrutivc  of 


%<\ 


t\ 


I 


counter  such  dangers,  nnil  all  navij^ation  is  (iisconliniicd. 
In  this  stale  llie  river  llows  with  an  imposing  grandeur  and 
majesty,  uliicli  no  language  can  describe.  It  seems  at  one 
moment  to  stay  its  juogrths  ;  then  leaps  forward  with  re- 
sistlc8b  impetuosit) ,  and  then  rebounds  against  the  rock* 
girl  ibiands  ol'  whiclj  I  have  already  spoken,  but  which 
j)resenl  only  vain  obstructions  to  its  headlong  course.  If 
arrested  for  a  moment,  its  accumulated  waters  proudly 
swell  and  mount  as  though  instinct  with  life,  and  the  next 
liiomcnt  dash  triumphantly  on,  enveloping  the  half  smo- 
liiered  waves  that  i>recei!cd  them  as  if  impatient  ot  their 
sluggish  course,  and  wild  to  speed  them  on  their  way. 
Along  the  shore,  on  every  projecting  point,  the  Indian  tish- 
erman  takes  his  stand,  spreading  in  the  eddies  his  ingen- 
iously worked  net,  and  in  a  short  time  procures  for  himself 
an  abundant  supply  of  fine  lish.  Attracted  by  the  shoals  of 
fish  that  come  up  the  river,  the  seals  gambol  amid  the  ed- 
dying waves — now  floating  with  their  heads  above  the 
river's  breast,  and  anon  darting  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye 
Irom  side  to  side,  in  sportive  joy  or  in  swift  pursuit  of  their 
scaly  j)rey.  Hut  this  noble  river  has  far  other  recollections 
associated  will)  it.  Never  shall  I  forget  the  sad  and  fatal 
accident  which  occurred  on  the  second  day  of  our  voyage, 
at  a  spot  called  the  *'  little  dalles."  I  had  gone  ashore  and 
was  walking  along  the  bank,  scarcely  thinking  what  might 
happen  ;  for  my  breviary,  papers,  bed,  in  a  word,  my  little 
all,  had  been  left  in  the  barge.  1  had  proceeded  about  a 
quarter  of  i;  mile,  when  seeing  the  bargemen  push  off"  from 
the  bank  and  glide  down  the  stream  wiih  an  easy,  careless 
air,  I  began  to  repent  having  preferred  a  path  along  the 
river's  side,  so  strewn  with  fragments  of  rocks  that  I  was 
compelled  at  every  instant  to  turn  aside  or  clamber  over 
t'.em.  I  still  held  on  my  couise,  when  all  at  once,  the  barge 


, 


u    I'dir's  /iiHiilouc. 


210 


nliiuicd. 
Icur  and 
IS  at  one 
Willi  re- 
lic rock- 
l   u'liicli 
irse.     If 
proudly 
the  next 
nlf  smo- 
ot  their 
!ir  way. 
lian  tish- 
3  ingen- 
himself 
jlioals  of 
1  the  ed- 
ove   the 
an  eye 
ol'  their 
ections 
nd  fatal 
voyage, 
ore  and 
u  might 
ny  little 
about  a 
3 11"  from 
careless 
dng  the 
t  I  was 
er  over 
e  barge 


^ 


is  so  abruptly  stopped  that  the  rowern  o:iii  hardly  keep  their 
scats.     Kogainmij,    however,    tlicir   rquilihriiiin,  they  ply 
the  oars  with  retloubliMl  vigour,  but  wiihout  any  ctfeciupDii 
the  bargo.  They  are  already  wilhiii  the  power  of  Uio  angry 
vortex  :   the  waters  are  eresled  with  foam  ;  a  deep  sound  is 
heard  which  I  disling;uish  as  the  voice  of  the   pilot  eucou- 
ragint;  his  men  to  hold  lo  their  oars— to  row  bravely.    Tho 
danger  increases  every  minute,  and  in  a  moment  more  all 
hope  of  safely  has  vanished.     'I'he  barge — the  sport  of  iho 
vortex,  spiiiis  like  a  top  upon  the  whirling  waters — the  oar.s 
are  useless — the  bow    rises — the  stern  descends,  and  the 
next  instant  all  have  disappeared.     A  death-like  chill  shot 
through  my  frame — a  diinness  came  over  my  siglii,  as  the 
cry  "  we  are  lost !"  rung  in  my  ears,  and  told  but  too  plain- 
ly  that   my  companions  were  buried  beneath  the  waves. 
Overwhelmed   with  grief  and  utterly  unable  to  allbrd  ihein 
the  slightest  assistance,  I  stood  a   motionless   spectator  of 
this  tragic  scene.     All  were  gone,  and  yet  upon  the  river's 
breast  there  was  not  the  faintest  trace  of  their  melancholy 
(ate.     Soon  after  the  whirlpool  threw  up,  in  various  direc- 
tions, the  oars,  poles,  the  barge  capsized,  and  every  lighter 
article  it  had  contained.     Here  and  there  I  behelil  the  un- 
happy bargemen  vainly  struggling  in  the  midst  of  the  vor- 
tex.    Five  of  them  sunk  never  lo  rise  again.     My  interpre- 
ter had  twice  touched  bottom  and  after  a  short  prayer  was 
thrown    upon   the  bank.     An  Iroquois  saved   himself  by 
means  of  my  bed;  and  a  third  was  so  fortunate  as  to  seize 
the  handle  of  an  empty  trunk,  which  helped  him  to  sustain 
himself  above  water  until  he  reached  land.    The  rest  of  our 
journey  was  more  fortunate.     We  stopped  at  Forts  Okina- 
kane  and  Walla-walla,  where  I  baptized  several  children. 

The  savages  who  principally  frequent  the  borders  of  the 
Columbia  river  are  from  the  lakes ;  the  chief  of  whom,  with 


I 


I 


220 


]\urrative  of 


several  of  the  nation,  have  been  baptized  ;  also  the  Shuyel- 
pi  or  Chaudieres,  the  Okinakanes,  Cingpoils,  Walla-wallas, 
Pierced  Noses,  Kayuses,  Altayes,  Spokanes,  the  Indians 
from  the  falls  and  cascades,  and  the  Schinouks  and  Clas- 
sops. 

We  arrived  at  Fort  Vancouver  on  the  morning  of  the 
8th  June.  I  enjoyed  the  happiness  and  great  consolation 
of  meeting  in  these  distant  parts,  two  respectable  Canadian 
priests — the  Rev.  Mr.  Blanchet,  grand  vicar  of  all  the  coun- 
tries west  of  the  mountains  claimed  bv  the  British  crown, 
and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Demers.  They  are  laboring  in  these 
regions  for  the  same  object  that  weare  trying  to  accomplish 
in  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  kindness  and  benevolence 
with  which  these  Reverend  gentlemen  received  me  are 
proofs  of  the  pure  zeal  which  actuates  them  for  the  salva- 
tion of  these  savages.  They  assured  me  that  immense  good 
might  be  done  in  the  extensive  regions  that  border  on  the 
Pacific,  if  a  greater  number  of  Missionaries,  with  means  at 
their  command,  were  stationed  in  these  regions  ;  and  they 
urged  me  very  strongly  to  obtain  from  my  Superiors  some  of 
our  Fathers.  I  will  try  to  give  you  in  my  next  some  extracts 
from  the  letters  of  these  Missionaries,  which  will  make 
the  country  known  to  you,  its  extent,  and  the  progress  of 
their  mission.  The  Governor  of  the  Honorable  Company 
of  Hudson  Bay,  Dr.  McLaughlin,  who  resides  at  Fort 
Vancouver,  after  having  given  me  every  possible  proof  of 
interest,  as  a  good  Catholic,  advised  me  to  do  every  thing 
in  my  power  to  gratify  the  wishes  of  the  Canadian  Mis- 
sionaries. His  principal  reason  is,  that  if  Catholicity  was 
rapidly  planted  in  these  tracts  where  civilization  begins  to 
dawn,  it  would  be  more  quickly  introduced  thence  into  the 
interior.  Already  a  host  of  ministers  have  overrun  a  part 
of  the  country,  and  have  settled  wherever  they  may  derive 


s! 


a   Year's  Residence. 


221 


some  advanlages  for  the  privaiions  their  philanthropy 
imposes  on  them.  Such  is  the  state  of  these  regions  of  the 
new  world,  as  yet  so  little  known  :  you  perceive  that  our 
prospects  are  by  no  means  discouraging^.  Permit  mo  there- 
fore to  repeat  the  great  principle  you  have  so  often  recom- 
mended to  me,  and  which  I  have  not  forgotten:  "  Courage 
and  confidence  in  God!"  With  the  mercy  of  God,  the  church 
of  Jesus  Christ  may  soon  have  the  consolation  of  seeing  her 
standard  planted  in  these  distant  lands  on  the  ruins  of  idola- 
try and  of  the  darkest  superstition.  Fray  then  that  the 
Lord  of  such  a  rich  harvest  may  send  us  numerous  fellow 
laborers ;  for  in  so  extensive  a  field  we  are  but  five,  and 
beset  witli  so  many  dangers,  that  at  the  dawn  of  day  we 
have  often  reason  to  doubt  whether  we  will  live  to  see  the 
sun  go  down.  It  is  not  that  we  have  any  thing  to  fear  from 
the  climate ;  far  from  it — for,  if  here  death  came  only  by 
sickness,  we  might  indeed  count  upon  many  years,  but 
water,  fire,  and  the  how,  often  hurry  their  victims  olf  when 
least  expected.  Of  a  hundred  men  who  inhabit  this  coun- 
try, there  are  not  ten  who  do  not  die  by  some  or  other  fatal 
accident.  The  afternoon  of  the  30ih  June  I  resumed  my 
place  in  one  of  the  barges  of  the  English  Company,  and 
took  my  leave  of  the  worthy  and  respectable  (Jovernor. — 
To  my  great  joy  I  found  that  the  Kev.  JMr.  Demers  was 
one  of  the  passengers,  being  about  to  undertake  aii  apostolic 
excursion  among  the  different  tribes  of  New  Caledonia, 
who,  according  to  the  accounts  of  several  Canadian  travel- 
lers, were  most  anxious  to  see  a  Blackgown,  and  hear  the 
word  of  God.  The  wind  being  favorable,  the  sails  of  the 
barge  were  unfurled  and  the  sailors  plying  their  oars  at  the 
same  time,  the  llth  of  July  saw  us  landed  safely  at  Fort 
Wallawalla.  The  next  day  I  parted,  with  many  regrets, 
from   my  esteemed  friends,  Rev.  Mr.  Demers,  and    Mr. 

19* 


222 


Narrative  of 


!  f!^? 


Ogden.     Accompanied  only   by  my  interpreter,  we  con- 
tinued  our  land   route    to  the    19ili,    through  woods   and 
immense   plains.     The    hiffh    plains    which  separate   the 
waters  of  the  Snake  river  from  those  of  the  Spokan,  offer 
some  natural  curiosities.     I  fancied  myself  in  the  vicinity 
of  several  fortified  cities,  surrounded  by  walls  and  small 
forts,   scattered  in   different   directions.     The  pillars    are 
regular  pentagons,  from  two  to  four  feet  in  diameter,  erect, 
joined  together,  forming  a  wall   from   forty  to  eighty  feet 
high,  and  extending  several  miles  in  the  form  of  squares 
and  triangles,  detached  from  one  another,  and    in  different 
directions.     On  our  road  we  met  some  Pierced  Noses,  and 
a  small  band  of  Spokancs,   who    accosted  us  with  many 
demonstrations  of    friendship,    and   although    very   poor, 
offereu  us  more  salmon  than  we  could  carry.     The  Pointed 
Hearts  (a  tribe  which  shall  ever  be  dear  to  me)  came  to 
meet  us,  and  great  was  the  joy  on  both  sides,  on  beholding 
one  another  again.     They  had  strictly  observed  all  the  rules 
I  had  laid  down  for  them  at  my  first  visit.     They  accom- 
panied me  for  three  days,  to  the  very  limits  of  their  terri- 
tory.    We  then  planted  a  cross  on  the  summit  of  a  high 
mountain,  covered  with  snow,  and  after  the  example  of  the 
Flat  Heads,  all  the  people  consecrated  themselves  invio- 
lably to  the  service  of  God.    We  remained  there  that  night. 
The  next  morning,  after  reciting  onr  prayers  in  common, 
and  giving  them  a  long  exhortation,  we  bad  them  farewell. 
The  20th  I  continued  my  journey  over  terrific  mountains, 
sleep  rocks,  and  through  apparently  impenetrable  forests. 
I  could  scarcely  believe  that  any  human  being  had  ever 
preceded   us  over  such  ?   road.     At  the  end  of  four  days* 
journey,  replete  with  fatigue  and  difficullies,  we  reached 
the  borders  o'Mhe  Bitter  Root  river,  and  on  the  evening  of 
the  27lh  I  had   the  happiness  of  arriving  safely   at   St» 


a  Year's  Residence. 


223 


Mary's,  and  of  finding  my  dear  brethren  in  good  health. — 
The  Flat  Heads,  accompanied  by  Father  Point,  had  left 
the  village  ten  days  before,  to  procure  provisions.     A  few 
had  remained  to  guard  the  camp,  and  their  families  awaited 
my  return.     The  19th,  I  started  to  rejoin  the  Flat  Heads  on 
the   Missouri  river.     We  ascended  the  Bitter  Root  to  its 
source,  and  the  1st  of  August,  having  clambered  up  a  high 
mountain,  we  planted  a  cross  on  its  very  summit,  near  a 
beautiful  spring,  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Missouri.     The 
next  day,  after  a  forced  march,  vve  Joined  the  camp    where 
we  had  such  a  budget  of  news  to  open,  so  many  interesting 
facts  to  communicate  to  each  other,  that  we  sat  up  a'  greater 
part  of  the  night.    The  Rev.  Father  Point  and  myself,  ac- 
companied  our  dear  neophytes,  who  to  obtain  their  daily 
'',;3ad,  are  obliged  to  hunt  the  buffalo,  even  over  the  lands 
^i  their  most  inveterate  enemies,  the  Black  Feet.     On  the 
15th  of  August,  the  feast  of  the  Assumption,  (the  same  on 
which  this  letter  is  dated)  I  offered  up  the  sacrifice  of  the 
Mass,  in  a  noble  plain,  watered  by  one  of  the  three  streams 
that  form  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  to  thank  God  for 
all  the  blessings  He  had  bestowed  on  us   during  this   last 
year.     I  had  the  consolation  of  seeing  fifty  Flat  Heads  ap- 
proach the  holy  table  in  so  humble,  modest  and  devout  a 
manner,  that  to  my,  perhaps  partial  eye,  they  resembled 
angels  more  than  men.     On  the  same  day  I  determined,  for 
the  interest  of  this  mission,   which  seems  so  absolutely  to 
require  it,  to  traverse  for  the  fourth  time  the  dangerous 
American  desert.     If  heaven  preserves  me,  (for  I  have  to 
travel  through  a  region  infested   by  thousands  of  hostile 
savages)  I  will  send  you  the  account  of  this  last  journey. — 
You  see  then.  Rev.  B'ather,  that  in  these   deserts  we  must 
more  than  ever  keep  our  souls  prepared  to  render  the  fearful 
account,  in  consequence  of  the  perils  that  surround  us;  and 


ill 


i»:-»l 


I'. 


224 


Narrative  of 


i>  '■' 


•1; 


-f  Ij 


as  it  would  be  desirable  that  we  could  be  replaced  imme- 
diately, in  case  of  any  accident  occurring — again  I  say  to 
you,   pray   that   the   Lord  may  send  us    fellow   laborers. 
♦•  Rogate  ergo   Dorainum    messis    ut    mittai   operarios   in 
messem  suam."     And  thousands    of   souls,    who   would 
otherwise  be  lost,  will  bless  you  one  day  in  eternity.     Rev. 
Father  Point  has  expressed  a  desire  to  be  sent  amongst  the 
Blackfeet.     Until  they  are  willing  to  listen  to  the  word  of 
God,  which  I  think  will  be  before  long,  he  intends  to  preach 
the    gospel]  to  the    Pointed    Hearts  and  the   neighboring 
tribes.     I  trust   we  shall  be   able  to   make  as  cheering  a 
report  of  these  as  we  have  already  done  of  our  first  neo- 
phytes.    I  have  found  them  all  in  the  best  dispositions. 
The  Rev.  Father  Mengarini  remains  with  the  Flatheads  and 
Pends  d'oreilles.     On  my  first  journey,  in  the  autumn  of 
1841,  which  ended   at  Fort  Coleville,  I  baptized  190  per- 
sons of  the  Kalispel  tribe.     On  my  visit,  last  spring,  to  the 
various  distant  tribes,  (of  which  I  have  just  finished  giving 
you  the  account)  I  had  the  consolation  of  baptizing  418 
persons,  60  of  whom   were  of  the  Pends  d'oreille  tribe  of 
the  great  lake;  82  of  the  Koetnays  or  Skalzi ;  100  of  the 
Pointed  Hearts;  56  of  the  Shuyelpi ;  100  of  the  Okena- 
kanes,  and  14  in  the  Okenakanes  and  VVallawa'.la  Forts. — 
These,  with  500  baptized  last  year,  in  diflerent  parts  of  the 
country,  mostly  amongst  the  Flat  Heads  and  Kalispels,  and 
196  that  I  baptized  on  Christmas  day,  at  St.  Mary's,  with 
the  850  baptized  by  Rev.  Fathers  Mengarini  and   Point, 
make  a  total  of  1654  souls,    wrested   from  the  power  of 
the  devil.     For  what  the  Scripture  rails  the  "spirit  of  the 
world"  has  not  wherewith  to  introduce  itself  amongst  them. 
These  poor  people  find  their  happiness  even  in  this  world 
in  the  constant  practice  of  their  christian  duties.     We  may 
almost  say  of  them,  that  all  who  are  baptized  are  saved. — 


hi 


I' 


a  Fear's  Residence.  225 

Since  God  has  inspired  you  with  a  zealous  desire  to 
second  the  views  of  tlie  Association  for  the  Propagation  of 
the  Faith,  entreat  those  pious  persons  to  whom  you  may 
communicate  your  designs,  to  redouble  their  prayers  in  our 
behalf.  I  conclude  by  beseeching  you  earnestly  to  remem- 
ber  me  frequently  and  fervently  in  the  Holy  Sacrifice. 
I  remain,  very  Rev.  and  dear  Father, 

Your  affectionate  servant 

and  brother  in  Christ, 

P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


:    il 


ft 


LETTER   XIV, 


\m 


■  '■  ■>  i 

;  n    :!   'I 

■m 


'"■• 


11 


St.  Mary,  June  28lh,  1842. 
Rev.  Father : 

Thanks  be  to  God,  our  hopes  have  at  length  begun  to  be 
realized  ;  the  tender  blossom  lias  been  succeeded  by  pre- 
cious fruit,  daily  more  and  more  visible  in  oijr  colony  ;  the 
chief  and  people,  by  their  truly  edifying  conduct,  give  us 
already  the  sweetest  consolation.     Pentecost  was    for  us 
and  for  our  beloved  neophytes  a  day  of  blessings,  of  holy 
exultation.     Eighty  of  tliem  enjoyed  the  happiness  of  par- 
taking for  the  first  time  of  the  bread  of  Angels.     Their  as- 
siduity in  assisting  during  a  month  at  the  instructions  we 
gave  them,  three  limes  a  day,  had  assured  us  of  their  zeal 
and  favor;  but  a  retreat  of  three  days,  which  served  as  a 
more  immediate  preparation,  contributed  still  more  to  con- 
vince us  of  their  sincerity.     From  an  early  hour  in  the 
morning  repeated  discharges  of  musketry  announced  afar 
the    arrival   of  the  great,  the  glorious   day.     At  the  first 
sound  of  the  bell  a  crowd  of  savages  hurried  towards  our 
church.     One  of  our  Fathers,  in  a  surplice  and  stole,  pre- 
ceded by  three  choristers,  one  of  whom  bore  aloft  the  ban- 
ner of  the  Sacred  Heart  of  .Tesus,  went  out  to  receive  them, 
and  conduct  them  in  procession,  and  to  the  sound  of  joyous 
canticles,  into   the  Temple  of  the  Lord.     What  piety— ^ 
what  religious  recollection,  amidst  that  throng  !     They  ob- 
served a  strict  silence,  but  at  the  same  time  the  joy  and 
gladness  that   filled   their   hearts,    shone  on    their  happy 
countenances.     The  ardent  love  which  already  animated 


a  Yearns  Residence. 


227 


1842. 

fiiii  to  be 
by  pre- 
>ny  ;  the 
,  give  us 
3    lor  us 
,  of  holy 
s  of  par- 
J'heir  as- 
ilions  we 
heir  zeal 
rved  as  a 
e  to  con- 
ur  in  the 
iced  afar 
the  first 
ards  our 
ole,  pre- 
the  ban- 
ve  them, 
f joyous 
piety— 
'hey  ob- 
joy  and 
•  happy 
inimated 


llicse  innocent  hearts,  was  inflamed  afresh  by  tlic  fervent 
aspirations  to  tlie  adorable  Sacrament,  which  were  recited 
aloud  by  one  of  our  Fathers,  who  also  intermingled  occa- 
sionally some  stanzas  of  canticles.  The  lender  devotion, 
and  the  profound  faith  with  which  these  Indians  received 
their  God,  really  edified  and aflected  us.  Tlial  morning  at  II 
o'clock  they  renewed  their  baptismal  vows,  and  in  the  after- 
noon they  made  the  solemn  consecrti'..<n  of  their  hearts  to 
the  Blessed  Virgin,  the  tutelar  patroness  of  this  place. — 
May  these  pious  sentiments  whicli  the  true  religion  alone 
could  inspire,  be  preserved  amongst  our  dear  children.  We 
hope  for  their  continuance,  and  what  increases  our-hope  is, 
that  at  the  time  of  this  solemnity,  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  persons  approached  the  tribunal  of  penance,  and 
since  that  truly  memorable  occasion,  we  liave  from  thirty 
to  forty  communions,  and  from  fifty  to  sixty  confessions 
every  Sunday. 

The  feast  of  Corpus  Christi  was  solemnized  by  another 
ceremony  not  less  touching,  and  calculated  to  perpetuate 
the  gratitude  and  devotion  of  our  pious  Indians  towards  our 
amiable  Queen.  This  was  the  solemn  erection  of  a  statue 
to  the  Blessed  Virgin,  in  memory  of  her  apparition  to  little 
Paul.  The  following  is  a  brief  account  of  the  ceremony. 
From  the  entrance  of  our  chapel  to  the  spot  where  little 
Paul  received  such  a  special  favor — the  avenue  was  simply 
the  green  sward,  the  length  of  which  on  both  sides  was 
bordered  by  garlands,  hung  in  festoons— triumphal  arches, 
gracefully  arranged,  arose  at  regular  distances.  At  the  end 
of  the  avenue,  and  in  the  middle  of  a  kind  of  repository, 
stood  the  pedestal,  which  was  destined  to  receive  the 
statue.  The  hour  specified  having  struck,  the  proces- 
sion issued  from  the  chapel  in  this  order.  At  the 
head   was   borne  aloft   the   banner  of  the    Sacred    Heart 


I 

*.^?i 


^ 


!) 


228 


ills' 


1,1, 


tf 


^1 


m 


mm 


\ 


m 
'II 


■I  5 
■     5 


'■; 


■■'  ;l 


1! 


Narrative  of 


followed  closely  by  liltle    Paul    carrying  the  statue  and 
accompanied    by    two    choristers,   who  profusely  strew- 
ed the   way   with   flowers.     Tiien  came  the  two  Fathers, 
one   vested  in   a   cope,   and    the    other  in  a  surplice.— 
Finally  the  march  was  dosed  by  the  chiefs  and  all  the  mem- 
bers of  the  colony  emulating  each  other  in  their  zeal  to  pay 
their  tribute  of  thanksgiving  and  praise  to  their  blessed  Mo- 
ther.    When  they  reached  the  spot  one  of  our  Fathers,  in 
a  short  exhortation,  in  which  he  reminded  them  of  the  sig- 
nal prodigy  and  assistance  of  the  Queen  of  Heaven,  encou- 
raged our  dear  necphytes  to  sentiments  of  confidence  in  the 
protection  of  Mary.     After  this  address  and  the  singing  of 
the  Litany  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  the  procession  return* 
ed  in  the  same  order  to  the  church.     Oh !  how  ardently 
we  desired  that  all  the  friends  of  our  holy   religion  could 
have  witnessed  the  devotion  and  recollection  of  these  new 
children  of  Mary.     It  was  also  our  intention  not  to  dis- 
miss them  until  we  had  given  them  the  Benediction  of  the 
Blessed  ii^acrament,  but  unfortunately  not  possessing  a  Re- 
monstrance we  were  obliged  to  defer  this  beautiful  cere- 
mony until  the  Feast  of  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus.  At  that 
time  the  Sacred  Host  was  carried  in  solemn  procession,  and 
since  then  each  Sunday  after  Vespers,  the  faithful  enjoy 
the  happiness  of  receiving  the  Benediction. 

May   the  blessing  of  God   really  descend  upon   us  and 
our  colony.    We  hope  for  it  through  the  assistance  of  your 
prayers  and  those  of  all  our  friends. 
I  remain,  Rev.  Father, 

Your  very  humble  friend  and  servant, 

Greg.  Mengarini,  S.  J. 


M 


LETTER  XV, 


Fort  Vancouver,  28lh  September,  1841. 
Reverend  Father : 

Blessed  be  the  Divine  Providence  of  the  all-powerful 
God  who  has  protected,  preserved  and  restored  you  safely 
to  your  dear  neophytes. 

I  congratulate  the  country  upon  the  inestimable  treasure 
it  possesses  by  the  arrival  and  establishment  therein  of  the 
members  of  the  Society  of  Jesus.  Be  so  kind  as  to  express 
to  the  Reverend  Fathers  and  Brothers  my  profound  vene- 
ration and  respect  for  them.  I  beg  of  God  to  bless  your  la- 
bours, and  to  continue  your  successful  cfToris.  In  a  few 
years  you  will  enjoy  the  glory  and  consolation  of  beholding 
through  your  means  all  the  savages  residing  on  the  head 
waters  of  the  Columbia,  ranging  themselves  under  the  stan- 
dard of  the  Cross.  I  do  not  doubt  but  that  our  excellent 
governor,  Dr.  McLaughlin,  will  give  you  all  the  assistance 
in  his  povver.  It  is  very  fortunate  for  our  holy  religion, 
that  this  noble-hearted  man  should  be  at  the  head  of  the 
affairs  of  the  honorable  Hudson  Bay  Company,  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  He  protected  it  before  our  arrival  in 
these  regions.  He  still  gives  it  his  support  byword  and 
example,  and  many  favors.  As  we  are  in  the  same  coun- 
try, aiming  at  the  same  end,  namely,  the  triumph  of  the 
holy  Catholic  faith  throughout  this  vast  territory,  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Demers  and  myself  will  always  take  the  most 
lively  interest  in  your  welfare  and  progress,  and   we  are 

20 


I- 
i  !?•■ '  'J 


*  I  -I 


!      L 

i.i  i  ''1 


I    I 


;'* 


♦;f 


1 
i     i 

1 

I 


■y  ■ 
'I 


230 


Narraiivt  of 


convinced  that,  whatever  concerns  ub  will  equally  interest 
you.  The  following  is  an  account  of  our  present  situation: 
The  Calliolic  establishment  of  Wallarnetto  consists  of 
nearly  80  families.  The  one  at  Cowliiz  of  only  five, — 
twenty-two  at  Ncz-quale  on  Puget-suntI,  which  is  from  25 
to  30  leagues  above  Cowlitz.  IJesidcs  these  stations  we 
visit  from  lime  to  time,  the  nearest  Forts  where  the  Catho- 
lics in  the  service  of  the  Hudson  Hay  Company  reside. 
This  is  what  takes  up  almost  all  our  time.  We  are  much 
in  want  of  lay  brothers  and  nuns,  of  school  masters  and 
mistresses.  Wo  have  to  attend  to  every  spiritual  as  well 
as  temporal  alTair,  which  is  a  great  burden  to  us.  The 
wives  of  ihe  Canadians,  taken  from  every  quarter  of  the 
country,  cause  throughout  the  families  a  diversity  of  lan- 
guages. They  speak  almost  generally  a  rude  jargon  of 
which  we  can  scarcely  make  any  use  in  our  public  instruc- 
tions— hence  proceed  the  obstacles  to  our  progress, — we 
go  along  slowly.  We  are  obliged  to  teach  them  French 
and  their  catechism  together,  which  occasions  much  delay. 
We  are  really  overwhelmed  with  business.  The  savages 
apply  to  us  from  all  sides.  Some  of  them  are  indifTerent, 
and  we  have  not  time  to  instruct  ihem.  We  make  them, 
occasionally,  hasty  visits,  and  baptize  the  children  and  the 
adults  who  happen  to  be  in  danger  of  death.  But  we  have 
KO  time  to  learn  their  languages,  and  until  now  have  been 
without  an  interpreter  to  translate  the  prayers  we  wish  them 
to  learn.  It  is  only  lately  that  I  have  succeded  in  translat- 
ing them  into  the  Tchinoux  language.  Our  difficulties  are 
greatly  increased  by  this  variety  of  languages;  each  of  the 
following  tribes  has  a  different  dialect:  The  Kalapouyas,  to- 
wards the  head  waters  of  the  Wallametle  ;  the  'J'chinouxof 
the  Columbia  river;  the  Kaijous  from  Walla-walla;  the  Pierc- 
ed Noses,  Okanakanes,  Flat  Heads,  Snakes,  Cowlitz,  the 


t! 


a   Year's  /ifsidence. 


231 


interest 
ituation: 
isisls  of 
r  five, — 
from  25 
ions  we 
3  Callio- 
reside. 
re  much 
ters  and 
as  well 
8.     The 
ir  of  the 
y  of  Ian- 
argon  of 
instruc- 
las, — we 
French 
h  delay, 
savages 
lilTerent, 
ie  them, 
and  the 
we  have 
ve  been 
ish  them 
translat- 
Ities  are 
h  of  the 
lyas,  to- 
inouxof 
e  Pierc- 
itz,  the 


\' 


Klickalatcs  from  the  interior,  north  of  Vancouver;  the 
Tfiheiicles,  to  iho  north  of  tlio  inoiiiii  of  llio  Coluinbiii  river; 
the  Nez-qiialc's,  and  iliose  from  the  interior  or  ol'llic  Piiget 
sund  Hay,  those  of  the  Travcrs  river,  the  Kiiahuns  of  the 
above  nientioiied  bay,  those  of  Vancouver  Isiiiiui,  and  lliose 
from  the  norllicrn  po.sts  on  the  sea  shore,  :ind  from  the  inte- 
rior of  the  part  of  the  country  watered  by  llie  tributary 
sirciuns  of  the  Travers  river,  all  have  their  dillorent  lan- 
guages. 

Stjch  arc  the  difnculiics  we  have  daily  to  overcome.  Our 
licarls  bleed  at  the  sight  of  so  many  souls  who  arc  lost  un- 
der our  eyes,  without  our  being  able  to  carry  to  them  the 
word  of  Life.  Moreover,  our  temporal  resources  are  limi- 
ted. We  are  but  two,  and  our  trunks  did  not  arrive  last 
spring  by  the  vessel  belonging  to  the  honorable  Hudson 
Hay  Company.  We  have  exhausted  our  means.  The  sa- 
vages, women  and  children,  aslc  us  in  vain  for  Rosaries. 
We  have  no  more  Catechisms  of  the  diocess  left  to  distri- 
b\ile  among  them  ;  no  En^'lish  Prayer  Books  for  the  Catho- 
lic Irish  ;  no  controversial  books  to  lend.  Heaven  appears 
to  be  deaf  to  our  prayers,  supplications  and  most  ardent 
wishes,  You  can  judge  of  our  situation  and  how  much 
we  aie  to  be  pitied.  Wc  are  in  the  mean  time  surrounded 
by  sects  who  are  using  all  their  efforts  to  scatter  every 
where  the  poisonous  seeds  of  error,  and  who  try  to  para- 
lyze the  little  good  we  may  efTect. 

The  Methodists  are,  first,  at  Wallamelto,  which  is  about 
eight  miles  from  my  establishment;  second,  near  the  Kla- 
iraps,  south  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river;  third,  at 
Nez  Quali,  or  Puget-sund ;  fourth,  at  the  Great  Dullesy 
south  of  Wallawalla;  and  fifth,  at  the  Wallamette  Falls. 
The  Presbyterian  Missions  are  at  Wallawalla,  as  you  ap- 
proach Coleville.  In  the  midst  of  so  many  adversaries  we 
try  to  keep  our  ground  firmly;  to  increase  our  numbers, 


m 


\ 


1^ 


232 


; 


Narrative  of 


I 


and  to  visit  various  parts,  jiarticiilarly  where  the  danger  is 
most  pressing.     We  aUo  endeavor  to  anticipate  the  others, 
and  to  inculcate  the  Catholic  principles  in   those  places 
where  error  has  not  as  yet  found  a  footinj^,  or  even   to  ar- 
rest the  progress  of   evil,  to  dry  it  up  at  its  source.     The 
conflict  lias  been   violent,  but  the  savages   now  begin  lo 
open  their  eyes  as  to  who  arc  the  real   ministers  of  Jesus 
Christ.     Heaven  declaics  itself  in  our  favor.     If  we  had  a 
priest  to  hold  a  permanent  station  amonj^st  the  savages,  the 
country  would  be  ours  in  two  years.     The  Mrthodisl  Mis- 
sions are  failing  rapidly  ;   they  are  losing  their  credit  and 
the  little  inllucnce  they  possessed.     By  the  grace  of  God, 
our  cause  has  prevailed  at  Wallametlc.     This  spring,  Mr. 
Demera  withdrew  from  the  Methodists  a  whole  village  of 
savages,  situate  at_  the  foot  of  the  Wallameltc  Falls.     Mr. 
Demers  also  visited   the  Schinouks,  below   the  Columbia 
river.     They  are  well  disposed    towards   Catholicity.     I 
have  just  arrived  from  Carcader,  which  is  eighteen  leagues 
from   Vancouver.     The  savages  at  this  place  had  resisted 
all  the  insinuations  of  a  pretended  Minister.     It  w?s  my 
first  mission,  ?nd  only  lasted  ten  days.     They  learned  in 
that  time  the  sign  of  the  cross,  the  ofTeiing  of  their  hearts 
to   God,  the  Lord's  Prayer,  the  Angelical  Salutation,  the 
Apostles'  Creed,  the  ten  Commandments,  and  those  of  the 
Church.     I  intend  to  revist  them  soon,  near  Vancouver, 
and  to  baptize  a  considerable  number.     Rev.  Mr.   Demers 
has  been  absent  these  two  months,  on  a  visit  to  the  savages 
at  the  Bay  of  Puget-sund,  who  have  long  since  besought 
him   to  come  amongst  them.     I  have    not   been   able  to 
visit  since  the  month  of  May,  my  catechumens  at  Flack- 
imar,  a  village  whose  people   were  converted  last  spring, 
and    who    had    turned    a    deaf   ear    to    a  Mr.     AValler, 
who   is   established  at  Wallamette.     Judge  then,  sir,  how 
great  are  our  labors,  and  how  much  it  would  advance  our 


n   Vcar^s  Residence. 


233 


\ 


mutual  intprcst,  wcro  you  to  sciul  liitlicr  one  of  your  Hpv. 
Fatlierg,  with  one  of  the  three  lay  brothers.  In  my  opinion, 
it  is  on  this  spot  that  wc  must  t^eek  to  establish  our  holy  icli- 
gion.  It  is  here  that  wc  kIiouIiI  have  a  college,  convent, 
and  schools.  Il  is  here  that  one  ilay  a  successor  of  the 
Apostles  will  come  Irom  sonio  part  of  the  world  to  settle, 
and  provide  for  the  sj)iritual  necessities  of  this  vast  region, 
which,  moreover,  promises  such  an  abundant  harvest. — 
Here  is  the  field  of  battle,  where  Me  must  in  the  ;irsl  place 
gain  the  victory.  It  is  here  that  we  must  establish  a  beau- 
tiful mission.  From  the  lower  slalioi::  the  Missionaries 
and  Kev.  Fathers  could  go  (orlh  in  all  dirtdions-tc  .upply 
the  distant  stations,  and  announce  the  word  of  (loi  io  the 
inildels  still  plunged  in  darknoss  and  the  sl)adow^  of  death. 
If  your  plans  should  not  permit  you  to  clang  ;  the  place  oi" 
your  establishment,  at  least  take  into  consideration  the  need 

in  which  we  stand  of  a  Ilev.  Father,  and  of  a  lay  brother,  to 
succor  us  in  our  necessities.     l}y  the  laie^jt  dates  from  the 

Sandwich  Islands,  I  am  informed  that  the  liev.  Mr. 
(>hochure  had  arrived  tliere,  accompanied  by  three  priests, 
the  Ilev.  Mr.  VVaUh  making  the  fourth.  A  large  ('alholic 
Church  it  was  hoped  would  have  been  ready  last  autumn 
for  the  celebration  of  the  Iloiy  Mysteries.  The  natives 
were  embracing  our  everlasiin^  f)i»h  in  great  numbers,  and 
the  meeting  houses  were  ainios;  abandoned. 

The  Bishop  of  Juliopolis,  stationed  at  lied  Kiver, 
writes  to  me  that  the  savnk>'S  dwelling  near  the  base  of  the 
eastern  part  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  have  deputed  to  him  a 
half  blood  who  resides  amongst  them,  to  obtain  from  his 
Grace  a  priest  to  instruct  them.  Rev.  Mr.  Thibault  is  des- 
tined for  this  missinn. 

I  remain,  Rev.  P^alher,  yours, 

F.  N.  Blancuet. 
20» 


h 


M 


H 

At 


M' 


ll' 


"I!   ■'■»'! 


=l<i 


11 


LETTER  XVI. 


University  of  St.  Louis,  IslNov.  1842. 
Very  Rev.  Father : 

In  my  last  letter  of  August,  I  promised  to  write  to  yon 
from  Si.  Louis,  should  I  arrive  safely  in  that  city.  Heaven 
has  preserved  me,  and  here  I  am  about  to  fulfil  my  promise. 
Leaving  Rev.  Father  Point  and  the  Flat  Head  camp  on  the 
river  Madison,  1.  was  accompanied  by  twelve  of  our  In- 
dians. We  travelled  in  three  days,  a  distance  of  150  miles, 
crossing  two  chains  of  mountains,  in  a  section  of  country 
frequently  visited  by  the  Black  Feet  warriors,  without, 
however,  meeting  with  any  of  these  scalping  savages.  At 
the  mouth  of  the  Twenty-five  Yard  River,  a  branch  of  the 
Yellow  Stone,  we  found  250  huts,  belonging  lo  several  na- 
tions, all  friendly  to  us — the  Flat  Heads,  Kalispels,  Pierced 
Noses,  Kayuses,  and  Snakes.  I  spent  three  days  amongst 
them  to  exhort  them  to  perseverance,  and  to  make  some 
preparations  for  my  long  journey.  The  day  of  my  depar- 
ture, ten  neophytes  presented  themselves  at  my  lodge  to 
serve  as  mv  escort,  and  to  introduce  me  to  the  Crow  tribe. 
On  the  evening  of  the  second  day  we  were  in  the  midst  of 
this  large  and  interesting  tribe.  The  Crows  had  perceived 
us  fiom  a  distance  ;  as  we  approached,  some  of  them  recog- 
nised me,  and  at  the  cry  of  "  the  Biackgown  !  ihe  Black- 
gown  !"  the  Crows,  young  and  old,  to  the  number  of  three 
thousand,  came  out  of  their  wigwams.  On  entering  the 
village,  a  comical  scene  occurred,  of  which  they  suddenly 
(nade  me  the  principal  personage.     All   the  chiefs,  and 


a  Vear^s  Residence. 


235 


about  fifty  of  their  warriors,  hastened  around  me,  and  I  was 
literally  assailed  by  them.  Holding  me  by  the  gown,  they 
drew  me  in  every  direction,  wiiilst  a  robust  savage  of  gigan- 
tic stature,  seemed  resolved  to  carry  me  ofl"  by  main  force. 
All  spoke  at  the  same  lime,  and  appeared  to  be  quarrelling, 
whilst  I,  the  sole  object  of  all  this  contention,  could  not 
conceive  what  they  were  about.  I  remained  passive,  not 
knowing  whether  I  should  laugh  or  be  serious.  The  inter- 
preter soon  came  to  my  relief,  and  said  that  all  this  uproar 
was  but  an  excess  of  politeness  and  kindness  towards  me, 
as  every  one  wished  to  have  the  iionor  of  lodging  and  en- 
tertaining the  Blackgown.  With  his  advice  I  selected  my 
host,  upon  which  the  others  immediately  loosed  their  hold, 
and  I  followed  the  chief  to  his  lodge,  which  was  the 
largest  and  best  in  the  camp.  The  Crows  did  not  tarry 
long  before  they  all  gathered  around  me,  and  loaded  me 
with  marks  of  kindness.  The  social  calumet,  emblem  of 
savage  brotherhood  and  union,  went  round  that  evening  so 
frequently,  that  it  was  scarcely  ever  extinguished.  It  was 
accompanied  with  all  the  antics  for  which  the  Crows  are  so 
famous,  when  they  oflTer  the  calumet  to  the  Great  Spirit,  to 
the  four  winds,  to  the  sun,  fire,  earth  and  waer.  These 
Indians  are  unquestionably  the  most  auxiousio  learn;  the 
most  inquisitive,  ingenious,  and  polished  of  all  the  savage 
tribes  east  of  the  mountains.  They  profess  great  friend- 
ship and  admiration  for  the  whiles.  They  asked  me  innu- 
merable questions  ;  among  others,  they  wished  to  know  the 
number  of  the  whiles.  Count,  I  replied,  the  blades  of 
grass  upon  your  immense  plains,  and  you  will  know  pretty 
nearly  the  number  of  the  whiles.  They  all  smiled,  saying 
that  the  thing  was  impossible,  but  they  understood  my 
meaning.  And  when  I  explained  to  them  the  vast  extent  of 
the  ♦•  villages"  inhabited  by  white  men  (viz.  New  York, 


) 


ill 


236 


Narrative  of  a 


I'  ill 


■!iJ1 


Philadelphia,  London,  Paris)  the  grand  lodges  (houses) 
built  as  near  each  other  as  the  fingers  of  my  liand,  and  four 
or  five  piled  up,  one  ahove  the  other — (meaning  the  diffe- 
rent stories  of  our  dwellings  ;)  when  I  told  them  that  some 
of  these  lodges  (speaking  of  churches  and  towers)  were  as 
high  as  mountains,  and  large  enough  to  contain  all  the 
Crows  together;  that  in  the  grand  lodge  of  the  national 
council  (the  Capitol  at  Washington)  all  the  great  chiefs  of 
the  whole  world  could  smoke  the  calumet  at  their  ease; 
that  the  roads  in  these  great  villages  were  always  filled  with 
passengers,  who  came  and  went  more  thickly  than  the  vast 
herds  of  buffalos  that  sometimes  cover  their  beautiful 
plains  ;  when  I  explained  to  them  the  extraordinary  celerity 
of  those  moving  lodges  (the  cars  on  the  rail  road)  that  leave 
far  behind  them  the  swiftest  horse,  and  which  are  drawn 
along  by  frightful  machines,  whose  repeated  groanings 
re-echo  far  and  wide,  as  they  belch  forth  immense  volumes 
of  fire  and  smoke  ;  and  next,  those  fire  canoes,  (steamboats) 
which  transport  whole  villages,  with  provisions,  arms  and 
baggage,  in  a  few  days,  from  one  country  to  another,  cros- 
sing large  lakes,  (the  seas)  ascending  and  descending  the 
great  rivers  and  streams;  when  I  told  them  that  I  had  seen 
White  men  mounting  up  into  the  air  (in  balloons)  and  flying 
Willi  as  much  agility  as  the  warrior  eagle  of  their  moun- 
tains, then  their  astonishment  was  at  its  height;  and  all 
placing  their  hands  upon  their  mouths,  sent  forth  at  the 
same  lime,  one  general  cry  of  wonder.  ♦»  The  Master  of 
life  is  great,"  said  the  chief,  "  and  the  white  men  are  His 
favorites."  But  what  appeared  to  interest  them  more  than 
aught  else,  was  prayer  (religion  ;)  to  this  subject  they  lis- 
tened with  the  strictest,  undivided  attention.  They  told 
me  that  they  had  already  heard  of  it,  and  they  knew  that 
this  prayer  made  men  good  and  wise  on  earth,  and  insured 


' 


li'- 


a  Yearns  Residence. 


237 


their  ha,>r>i!'Pss  in  the  future  life.     They  begged  me  to  per- 
mit the  whole  camp  to  assemble,  that  they  might  hear  (or 
themselves  the   words  of  the  Great  Spirit,  of  whom  they 
had  been  told  such  wonders.     Immediat-ly  three  United 
Slates  flags  were  erected  on  the  field,  in  the  midst  of  the 
camp,  and  three  thousand  savages,  including  the  sick,  who 
were  carried  in  skins,  gathered  around  mc.    I  knell  beneath 
the  banner  of  our  country,  my  (en  Flat  Head  neophytes  by 
my  side,   and  surrounded  by  this  multitude,  eager  to  hear 
the  glad  tidings  of  the  gospel  of  peace.     We  began  by  in- 
toning two  canticles,  after  which  I  recited  all  the  prayers, 
which  we  interpreted  to  them  :   then  again  we  sajig  canti- 
cles, and  I  finished  by  explaining   to  them  the  Apostles' 
Creed  and  the  ten  Commandments.     They  all  appeared  to 
be  filled  with  joy,  and  declared  it  was  the  happiest  day  of 
their  lives.     They  begged  me  to  have  pity  on  them — to  re- 
main among  them  and  instruct  them  and  their  little  children 
in  the  knowledge,  love  and  service  of  the  Gieat  Spirit.     I 
promised  that  a  Blackgown  should  visit  them,  but  on  condi- 
tion that  the  chiefs  would  engage  themselves  to  put  a  slop 
to  the  thievish  practices  so  common  amongst  them,  and  to 
oppose  vigorously  the  corrupt  morals  of  their  tribe.     Be- 
lieving  me  to  be  endowed  wiih  supernatural  powers,  they 
had  entreated  me  from  the  very  commencement  of  our  con- 
versation, to  free  them  from  the  sickness  tliat  then  desola- 
ted the  camp,  and  to  supply  them  with  plenty,     I  repeated 
to  them  on  this  occasion  that   the  Great  Spirit  alone  could 
remove    these   evils — God,    I  said,    listens    to    the   sup- 
plications of  the  good  and  pure  of  heart;  of  those  who  de- 
test their  sin?,  and  wish  to  devote  themselves  to  His  ser- 
vice— but  He  shuts   his  ear  to  the  prayers  of  those  who 
violate    His    holy    law.     In    His    anger,    God    had    de- 
stroyed by  fire,   five   infamous    ••  villages"  (Sodom,  Go- 


i 


III   i 


■m  ■  i 


238 


Narrative  of 


morrah,  etc.)  in  consequence  of  their  horrid  abomina- 
tions— tiiat  the  Crows  walked  in  the  ways  of  these 
wicked  men,  consequently  llicy  could  not  complain  if  the 
Great  Spirit  seemed  to  punish  ihem  by  sickness,  war  and 
famine.  They  were  themselves  the  authors  of  all  their  ca- 
lamities— and  if  they  did  not  change  thsir  mode  of  life  very 
soon,  they  might  expect  to  see  their  misfortunes  increase 
from  day  to  day — while  the  most  awful  torments  awaited 
them,  and  all  wicked  men  after  their  dcaih.  1  assured  them 
in  fine  that  heaven  would  be  the  reward  of  those  who  would 
repent  of  their  evil  deeds  and  practice  the  religion  of  the 
Great  Spirit. 

The  grand  orator  of  tlie  camp  was  the  first  to  reply  : 
"  Black  Gown,"  said  he,  "  I  understand  you.  You  have  said 
what  is  true.  Your  words  liave  passed  from  my  cars  into 
my  iieart — I  wish  all  could  comprehend  them."  Whereon, 
addressing  himself  to  the  Crows,  he  repeated  forcibly, 
"  Yes,  Crows,  the  Black  Gown  has  said  what  is  true.  Wc 
are  dogs,  for  we  live  like  dogs.  Let  us  change  our  lives 
and  our  children  will  live."  I  then  held  long  conferences 
with  ail  the  chiefs  assembled  in  council.  I  proposed  to  them 
the  example  of  the  Flat  Heads  and  Pends-d'orielle?,  whose 
chiefs  made  it  their  duty  to  exhort  their  people  to  the  prac- 
tice of  virtue,  and  who  knew  how  to  punish  as  they  de- 
served all  the  prevarications  against  God's  holy  law.  They 
promised  to  follow  my  advice,  and  assured  me  that  I  would 
find  them  in  better  dispositions  on  my  return.  I  flatter 
myself  with  the  hope,  that  this  visit,  the  good  example  of 
my  neophytes,  but  principally  the  prayers  of  the  Flat  [leads 
will  gradually  produce  a  favourable  change  among  the 
Crows.  A  good  point  in  their  character,  and  one  that  in- 
spires me  with  almost  the  certainty  of  their  amendment,  is, 
that  they  have  hitherto  resisted  courageously  all  attempts 


r 

i 


a  Yearns  Residence. 


239 


to  introduce  spirituous  liquors  among  them.     *'  For  what 
is  this  fire-water  good  ?"  said  the  chief  to  a  while  man  who 
tried  to  bring  it  into  their  country,  "  it  burns  the  throat  and 
stomach  ;  it  makes  a  man  like  a  bear  who  has  lost  his 
senses.     He  bites,  he  growls,  he  scratches  and  he  howls, 
he  falls  down  as  If  he  were  dead.     Your  fire-water  does 
nothing  but  harm — take  it  to  our  enemies,  and  they  will 
kill  each  otiier,  and  their  wives  and  children  will  be  worthy 
of  pity.     As  for  us  we  do  not  want  it,  we  are  fools  enough 
without  it."     A  very  touching  scene  occurred  during  the 
council.     Several   of  the  savages  wished  to  examine  my 
Missionary    Cross  ;  I  thence  look  occasion  to  explain  to 
them  the  sufferings  of  our  Saviour,  Jesus  Christ,  and  the 
cause  of  His  death  on  the  Cross — I  then  placed  my  Cross 
in  the  hands  of  the  great  chief;  he  kissed  it  in  the  most 
respectful  manner  ;  raising  his  eyes  to  heaven,  and  pressing 
the  Cross  with  both  his  hands  to  his  heart,  he  exclaimed, 
♦'  O  Great  Spirit,  lake  pity  on  me  and  be  merciful  to  Thy 
poor  children."     And  his  people  followed  his  example.     1 
was  in  the  village  of  the  Crows  when  news  was  brought 
that  two  of  their  most  distinguished   warriors  had  fallen 
victims  to  the  rage  and  cruelty  of  the  Black  Feel.     The  he- 
ralds or  orators  went  round  the  camp,  proclaiming  in  a  loud 
voice  the  circumstances  of  the  combat  and  the  tragic  end  of 
the  two  brave  men.     A  gloomy   s'lence    prevailed  every 
where,  only  interrupted  by  a  band  of  mourners,  whose  ap- 
pearance alone  was  enough  to   make  the  most  insensible 
heart  bleed,  and  rouse  to  vengeance  the  entire  nation.  This 
band  was  composed  of  the  mothers  of  the  two  unfortunate 
warriors  who  had  fallen,  tiieir   wives  carrying  .their  new 
born  infants  in  their  arms,  their  sisters,  and  all  ilicir  little 
children.     The  unhappy  creatures  had  iheir  heads  shaven 
and  cut  in  every  direction  ;  they    were  gashed  with  nume- 


■i 

A 


'i 


I 


i'i 


it  til 


I  j, 


240 


Narrative  of 


rous  wounds,  whence  the  blood  constantly  trickled.    In  this 
pitiable  stale  ilic-y  rent  the  air  wiili  their  lamentations  and 
cries,  imploring  the  warriors  of  their  naiion  to  have  com- 
passion on    then» — to  have  compassion  on  their  desolate 
children —  to  grant  them  one  last  favour,  the  only  cure  for 
their  alllieiion,  and  that  was,  to  go  at  once  and  inflict  signal 
vengeance  on  the  murderers.     'J'hey  led  by  the  bridle  all 
the  horses  that  belonged  to  the  deceased.     A  Crow  chief 
jijounting  immediately  the  best  of  these  steeds,  brandished 
his  tomahawk  in  the  air,  proclaiming  that  he  was  ready  to 
avenge  the    deed.     Several  young  men  rallied  about  him. 
They  sung  together  the  war-song,  and  started  the  same  day, 
declaring  that  they  would  not  return  empty-handed  (viz; 
without  scalps). 

On  these  occasions  the  near  relations  of  the  one  who  has 
fallen,  distribute  every  thing  that  they  possess,  retaining 
nothing  but  some  old  rags  wherewith  to  clothe  themselves. 
The  mourning  ceases  as  soon  as  the  deed  is  aveng^.  The 
warriors  cast  at  the  feel  of  the  widows  and  orphans  the  tro- 
phies torn  away  from  the  enemies.  Then  passing  from  ex- 
treme grief  to  exultation,  they  cast  aside  their  tattered  gar- 
ments, wash  their  bodies,  besmear  themselves  with  all  sorts 
of  colours,  deck  themselves  off  in  their  best  robes,  and 
with  the  scalps  afllxed  to  the  end  of  poles,  march  in  triumph 
round  the  camp,  shouting  and  dancing,  accompanied  at  the 
same  time  by  ths  whole  village. 

On  the  29ih  1  bade  adieu  to  my  faithful  companions,  the 
Flat  Heads,  and  the  Crows.  Accompanied  by  Ignatius, 
(iabriel,  and  by  two  brave  Americans,  who,  although  Pro 
testants,  wished  to  serve  as  guides  to  a  Catholic  Mission- 
ary, 1  once  more  plunged  into  the  arid  plains  of  the  Yellow 
Stone.  Having  already  described  this  region,  1  have  noth- 
ing new  to  add  concerning  it.     'J'his  desert  is  undoubtedly 


II 


N 


I. 


h 


I 


1 


'•^^^^ 


n.!i 


a  Fear*s  Residence. 


241 


dangerous,  and  has  been  the  scene  of  more  tragic  deeds, 
combats,  slralagems,  and  savage  cruellies,  llian  any  olher 
region.  At  each  step,  the  Crow  inlerpreler,  Mr.  V.  C. 
who  had  sojourned  eleven  years  in  the  country,  recounted 
different  transactions;  pointing,  meanwhile,  to  the  spots 
where  they  jiad  occurred,  which,  in  our  situation,  made 
our  blocd  run  cold,  and  our  hair  stand  erect.  It  is  the  bat- 
tle giound  where  the  Crows,  tiie  Black  Feet,  Scioux, 
\\  Sheyennes,  Assiniboins,  Arikaras,and  Minatares,  fight  out 

their  interminable  quarrels,  avenging  and  revenging,  with- 
out respite,  their  mutual  wrongs.  After  six  days'  march, 
we  found  ourselves  upon  the  very  spot  where  a  combat  had 
recently  taken  place.  'J'he  bloody  remains  of  ten  Assini- 
boins, who  had  been  slain,  were  scattered  here  and  there — 
almost  all  the  flesh  eaten  off  by  the  wolves  and  carniverous 
birds.  At  the  sight  of  these  mangled  limbs — of  the  vul- 
tures that  soared  above  our  heads,  after  having  satiated 
themselves  with  the  unclean  repast,  and  the  region  round 
me,  which  had  so  lately  resounded  with  the  savage  cries  of 
more  savage  men,  engaged  in  mutual  carnage — I  own  that 
the  little  courage  1  thought  I  possessed,  seemed  to  fail  me 
entirely,  and  give  place  to  a  secret  terror,  which  I  sought 
in  vain  to  stifle  or  conceal  from  my  companions.  We  ob- 
served in  several  places  the  fiesh  tracks  of  men  and  horses, 
leaving  no  doubt  in  our  minds  as  to  the  proximity  of  hos- 
tile parlies ;  our  guide  even  assured  me  that  he  thought  we 
were  already  discovered,  but  by  continuing  our  precautions 
he  hoped  we  might  perhaps  elude  their  craftiness  and  mali- 
cious designs,  for  the  savages  very  seldom  make  their  at- 
tacks in  open  day.  The  following  is  the  description  of  our 
regular  march  until  the  lOih  of  September.  At  day-break 
we  saddled  our  horses  and  pursued  our  journey;  at  10  A. 

M.   wo  breakfasted  in  a  suitable  place,  thai  would  offer 

21 


I  I 


h 

;■! 

■in 

^1 


ii.l 


lltt 


1^ 


.  '\*' 


i  !l< 


242 


Narrative  of 


some  nclvantage  in  case  of  an  attack.  After  an  hour  and  a 
half,  or  two  hours'  rest,  we  resumed  our  inarch  a  second 
lime,  always  trotting  our  liorses,  until  sunset,  when  we  un- 
saddled them  to  dine  and  sup;  we  then  lighted  a  good  fire, 
hastily  raised  a  little  cabin  of  branches,  to  induce  our  ever 
watchful  foes,  in  case  they  pun^ue  us,  to  suppose  that  we 
had  encamped  for  the  night;  for,  as  soon  as  the  inimical 
videttes  discover  any  thing  of  the  kind,  they  make  it  known 
by  a  signal  lo  the  whole  party.  They  then  immediately 
assemble,  and  concert  the  plan  of  attack.  In  the  mean- 
tkjie,  favored  by  the  darkness,  we  pursued  our  journey 
quietly  until  10  or  12  o'clock  at  night,  and  then,  without 
fire  or  even  shelter,  each  one  disposed  himself  as  well  as 
he  might,  for  sleep.  It  appears  to  me  that  1  hear  you  ask  : 
But  what  did  you  eat  for  your  breakfast  and  supper?  Ex- 
amine the  notes  of  my  journal,  and  you  will  acknowledge 
that  our  fare  was  such  as  would  excite  the  envy  of  the  most 
fastidious  gastronome.  From  the  25th  of  August  to  the 
lOih  September,  1842,  we  killed,  to  supply  our  wants,  as 
we  journeyed  on,  three  fine  bulTalo  cows,  and  two  large 
bulls  ;  (only  to  obtain  the  tongue  and  marrow  bones)  two 
large  deer,  as  fat  as  we  could  have  wished ;  three  goats, 
two  black-tail  deer,  a  big-horn  or  mountain  sheep,  two  fine 
grey  bears,  and  a  swan — to  say  nothing  of  tlie  pheasants, 
fowls,  snipes,  ducks  and  geese. 

In  the  midst  of  so  much  game,  we  scarcely  felt  the  want 
of  bread,  sugar  or  cofiee.  The  haunches,  tongues  and  ribs 
replaced  these.  And  the  bed  ?  It  is  soon  arranged.  We 
were  in  a  country  where  you  lose  no  time  in  taking  off 
your  shoes  ;  you  wrap  your  bufl^alo  robe  around  you,  the 
saddle  serves  as  a  pillow,  and  thanks  to  the  fatigues  of  a 
long  journey  of  about  forty  miles,  under  a  burning  sun,  you 
have  scarcely  laid  your  head  upon  it  before  you  are  asleep. 


a  Fear's  Residence. 


243 


The  gentlemen  of  Fort  Union,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow 


I 


Slo 


ith 


I 


nc,  received  me  with  great  poliieness  and  kindne«s. 
rested  there  during  three  days.  A  journey  so  long  and 
continuous,  through  regions  where  ihe  drought  had  been  so 
great  that  every  sign  of  vegetation  had  disappeared,  had 
very  much  exhausted  our  poor  iiorses.  The  1800  miles 
that  we  had  yet  to  travel,  were  not  to  be  undertaken  lightly. 
After  having  well  considered  every  thing,  I  resolved  to 
leave  my  horses  at  the  Fort,  and  to  trust  myself  to  the  im- 
petuous waters  of  the  Missouri  in  a  skid",  accompanied  by 
Ignatius  and  Gabriel.  The  result  was  most  fortunate,  for, 
OB  the  third  day  of  our  descent,  to  our  great  surprise  and 
joy,  we  heard  the  puffing  of  a  steamboat.  It  was  a  real 
God-send  to  us  ;  accordingly,  our  first  thought  was  to  thank 
God,  in  all  the  sincerity  of  our  hearts.  We  soon  beheld 
her  majestically  ascending  the  stream.  It  was  the  first 
boat  that  had  ever  attempted  to  ascend  the  river  in  that  sea- 
son of  the  year,  laden  with  merchandize  for  the  Fur 
Trade  Company.  Four  gentlemen  from  New  York,  pro- 
prietors of  the  boat,  invited  me  to  enter  and  remain  on 
board.  I  accepted  with  unfeigned  gratitude  their  kind  offer 
of  hospitality;  the  more  so,  as  they  assured  me  that  several 
parties  of  warriors  were  lying  in  ambush  along  the  river. 
On  entering  the  boat  I  was  an  object  of  great  curiosity — 
my  blackgown,  my  missionary  cross,  my  long  hair,  at- 
tracted attention.  I  had  thousands  of  questions  to  answer, 
and  many  long  stories  to  relate  about  my  journey. 

I  have  but  a  few  words  to  add.  The  waters  were  low, 
the  sand-banks  and  snags  everywhere  numerous  ;  the  boat 
consequently  encountered  many  obstacles  in  her  passage. 
We  were  frequently  in  great  danger  of  perishing.  Her 
keel  was  pierced  by  pointed  rocks,  her  sides  rent  by  the 
'"wenty   limes   the   wheels  had   been  broken  to 


snags 


244 


Narrative  of  a  I'ear^s  Resuhnce. 


pieces.  The  pilot's  lioiiso  liad  been  carried  away  in  ihe 
tempest;  the  whole  cabin  would  have  followed  if  it  had 
not  been  made  last  by  a  Jarge  cable.  Our  boat  appeared 
to  be  little  more  than  n  mere  wreck,  and  in  this  wreck, 
after  forty-six  days'  navlj^alion  from  tlio  Yellow  Slone,  we 
arrived  safely  at  8t.  Louis. 

On  the  last  Sunday  of  October,  at  12  o'clock,  I  was 
kneeling  at  the  foot  of  iSt.  Mary's  Altar,  in  the  Catlicdial, 
oflering  up  my  thanksgiving  to  God  for  the  signal  j)rotec- 
tion  lie  had  extended  to  his  poor,  unworthy  servant.  From 
the  beginning  of  April  I  had  travelled  five  thousand  miles. 
1  had  descended  and  ascended  the  dangerous  Columbia 
river.  I  had  seen  five  of  my  companions  perish  in  one  of 
those  life-destroying  whirlpools,  so  jusdy  dreaded  by  those 
who  navigate  that  stream.  1  had  traveised  the  Walla- 
mette,  crossed  the  Kocky  IMountains-,  passed  through  the 
country  of  tiie  Black  Feet,  the  desi  rt  of  the  Yellow  Stone, 
and  descended  the  Missouri;  and  in  all  these  journeys  1 
had  not  received  the  slightest  injury.  '' Douiinus  memor 
fuit  nostri  et  bcnedixil  nobis."  I  recommend  myself  lo 
your  good  prayers,  and  have  the  honor  to  remain 
Your  very  humble  and  obedient 

son  in  Jesus  Christ, 

P.  J.  De  Smet,  S.  J. 


!i 


!.f. 


A 


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f   ' 


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i  3    »    ?■      ! 


|i|.iii.»  .>i|i.io  "I'l'VI 

.M||  IIMIII    Hp.H'.t*    ii'Mi     |Miy 


.%///'/  s^/  ^^/^■  /  /  /  /  /  /    ^-^      ./ 


|||.IIN).II||  ||ll  Ollll  HI.MV 

|iiin<>s;    -ii'"!.!, 
v\  -  \  'I'  ""'>l 


■:  5  •  ?  1^ 


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5  I 


a.       /. 


EXPLANATION 


OF    THE 


INDIAN  SYMBOLICAL  CATECHISM. 


1.  Four  tliousand  years  irom  the  crealioii  of  the  world 
to  tlie  coming  of  the  Messiah.  1843  years  from  the  birlli 
of  Jesus  Christ  to  our  times.  (On  the  map,  each  blank 
line  represents  a  century.)  Inatruction. — There  is  but 
one  God  ;  God  is  a  spirit;  He  has  no  body  ;  He  is  every- 
where ;  He  hears,  sees  and  understands  every  thing  ;  He 
cannot  be  seen,  because  he  is  a  spirit.  If  we  are  good  we 
shall  see  Him  after  our  death,  but  the  wicked  shall  never 
behold  Him  ;  He  has  had  no  beginning,  and  will  never 
have  an  end;  He  is  eternal;  He  does  not  grow  old;  He 
loves  the  good,  whom  lie  recompenses;  He  hates  the 
wicked,  whom  he  punishes.  There  are  three  persons  in 
God[;  each  of  the  three  is  God— they  are  equal  in  all 
things,  «&c. 

2.  The  heavens,  the  earth,  Adam  and  Eve,  the  tree  of 
the  knowledge  of  good  and  evil,  the  serpent,  the  sun,  moon, 
stars,  the  angels,  and  hell.  Instruction. — God  is  all  pow- 
erful; He  made  the  heavens  and  earth  in  six  days.  The 
first  day  he  created  matter,  light,  the  angels.  The  fidelity 
of  some  and  the  levolt  of  others.  Hell.  The  second  day, 
the  firmament,  which  is  called  heavens  ;  the  tliird  day,  the 
seas,  plants,  and  trees  of  the  earth  ;  fourth   day,  the  sun, 

21* 


I 

t 

.}■■ 


M 


m 


246 


Catechism. 


moon,  and  stars  ;  fifth  day,  the  birds  and  fishes  ;  sixth  day, 
the  animals,  Adam  and  Eve,  the  terrestrial  paradise,  and 
the  tree  of  the  knowledge  of  good  and  evil.  The  seventh 
day  was  one  of  rest.  A.  short  time  after  the  seventh  day, 
the  serpent  tempted  Eve.  The  fall  of  Adam,  original  sin  ; 
its  consequences.  Adam  driven  from  Paradise,  the  joy  of 
the  Devil.  The  promise  given  of  a  future  Saviour,  the  Son 
of  God.  He  did  not  come  immediately,  but  4000  years  af- 
terwards. 

N.  B.  It  is  not  well  to  interrupt  too  frequently  liie  expla- 
nation of  the  figures  on  the  chart.  The  necessary  remarks 
on  the  history  of  religion  in  general  may  be  made  more  ad- 
vantageously apart,  and  in  a  continuous  manner.  Pass  at 
once  to  the  Incarnation  of  Jesus  Christ,  the  mystery  of  Re- 
demption, &c. 

3.  Death  of  Adam. 

4.  Henoch  taken  up  into  heaven;  he  will  return  al  the 
end  of  the  world. 

5.  Noah's  Ark,  in  which  four  men  and  four  women  are 
saved;  all  the  others  perish  in  the  deluge.  Jnslruction.—' 
The  history  of  liie  deluge.  The  preachiugof  Noah.  The 
ark  was  450  feet  long,  75  wide,  and  45  high.  Deluge  lasts 
12  months.     The  Rainbow.     Scm,  Cham  and  Japhet. 

6.  Tlie  Tower  of  iJabel,  built  by  Noah's  descendants. 
Instrucllon. — About  150  years  alter  the  deluge;  15  stories 
high.     Confusi(m  of  lan!.niages. 

7.  Abraham,  Isaac,  Jacob,  Joseph,  Job,  .Moses,  Aaron, 
Pharaoh.  Instniclion. — 'i'hc  history  of  Abraham,  Isaac, 
Jacob  and  Joseph.  His  dreams,  lie  is  f^old  at  the  age  of 
16.  Jacob  [)asses  over  to  Egypt  about  22  years  after  his 
son.  'i'he  Israelites  reside  in  that  ci»uiilry  200  years.  The 
history  of  Moses,  the  ten  plagues  of  Egypt.     The  Passu- 


Catechism. 


247 


ver.     The  Israelites  leaving  Egypt.     The  passage  of  tlie 
Red  Sea.     Pharaoh's  army. 

8.  Sodom,  Gomorrah,  five  cities  destroyed  by  fire  from 
heaven.  Lot  saved  by  two  angels.  Instruction. — 'I'iiree 
angels  visit  Abraham.  Two  angels  go  to  Sodom.  The 
wife  of  Lot  changed  into  a  pillar  of  salt. 

9.  The  ten  commandments  of  God  given  to  Moses 
alone  on  Mount  Sinai,  lastrucilon. — Fifty  days  afier  the 
Israelites  have  crossed  the  Red  Sea.  i'he  promulgation  of 
the  Commandments  on  two  tables..  First  fasi  of  Moses, 
idolatry  of  the  people,  prayer  of  Moses,  golden  calf,  &,c. 
Second  fast  of  Moses.  Second  tables  of  the  law,  iO  years 
in  the  desert,  the  manna,  the  water  issuii?g  from  ihe  rock, 
the  brazen  serpent.  Caleb  and  Josua.  Moses  prays  with 
his  arms  extended.  Josua.  The  passage  of  the  Jordan. 
Fall  of  the  walls  of  Jericho.  The  twelve  Tribes.  Go- 
vernment of  God  by  means  of  Judges  for  the  space  of  three 
to  four  hundred  years.  Josua,  Debora,  Gideon,  Jephte, 
Samson,  IKli,  S.»mael,  Saul,  David,  Solomon,  Roboam. 
Instruction, — '!Mie  kingdom  of  Israel  formed  of  ten  tribes; 
it  subsisted  htr  253  years,  under  18  kings,  'i'hat  of  v'uda, 
formed  of  two  tribes,  subsistpd  3Pi]  year-,  under  19  kings. 

12.  The  'i'emple  of  Solomo.u  .fni!'!f!iuhr—h  was 
built  in  7  years.  lis  delio.. i.oii.  VVhut  it  contained.  It 
was  burned  about  the  16ih  y^  a- rf  the  3i'.h  -a^c.  It  was 
re-built  at  the  end  of  the  cawtiviiN .  This  last  buldinjj  was 
very  inferior,  and  it  was  at  last  destroyed  forty  years  after 
the  death  of  Jesus  Christ.  Julian,  the  apostate,  was  in- 
strumental in  accomplishing  tiie  prediction  of  our  Saviour. 

11.  The  four  great  and  the  twelve  inii  .>r  prophets. 

12.  Eiias  lakfn  up  into  heaven;  wiil  return  at  the  end 
of  the  world.  Eliseus  his  disciple.  Jo.ias  <!iree  days  in  a 
whale's  belly. 


248 


Catechism. 


'ill 


;  <•'   !! 


1'^     J 


13.  The  caplivily  of  IJabylon.  Instruction. — This 
captivity  lasted  for  70  years.  It  comtnenced  on  the  16th  of 
the  34th  age,  and  terminated  about  8(Uh  of  the  35ih. 

14.  History  of  Susana,  Tobias,  Judith,  Esther.  Na- 
buchodonozer  reduced  for  the  space  of  7  years  to  the  condi- 
tion of  a  brute.     The  three  children  in  the  furnace. 

15.  The  Old  Testament.  Instruction. — Tiie  historv 
of  the  book  of  the  law,  destroyed  in  the  commencement  of 
the  captivity.  Re-placed  at  the  end  of  this  time  by  the  care 
ofEsdras.  Destroyed  again  under  the  persecution  of  An- 
tiochas. 

16.  The  holy  man  Eleazar.  The  seven  Macbabees 
and  their  mothui  ;  Antiochus,  St.  Joachim,  and  St.  Anne. 

17.  Zacharias,  Elizabeth,  Mary,  Joseph.  The  appari- 
tion of  the  angel  Gabriel  to  Zacharias.  Birili  of  St.  John 
the  Baptist.  The  angel  Gabriel  appears  to  Mary.  Mys- 
tery of  the  Incarnation  of  the  Word.  Fear  cf  Joseph.  The 
visitation.  Mary  and  Joseph  leave  lor  Bethlehem.  Jera. 
salem  is  30  leagues  from  Nazareth,  Bethlehem  is  3  leagues 
from  Jerusalem,  Emmaus  3  leagues. 

18.  Jesus  Christ,  the  Son  of  God,  made  man  for  us. 
The  history  of  the  Annunciation. 

19.  Jesus  Christ  is  born  on  Christmas  day,  at  Bethle- 
hem. The  history  of  His  birth  ;  the  angels  and  shepherds. 
The  circumcision  at  the  end  of  eight  days.  The  name  of 
Jesus. 

20.  The  star  of  Jesus  Ciirist  seen  in  the  East,  predicted 
by  Balaam. 

21  Tiie  three  kings  (Magi.)  Gaspard,  Balthazar  and 
Melchior,  having  seen  the  star,  come  to  adore  the 
infant  Jesuo.  Instruction. — The  star  disappears.  The 
Magi  visit  Herod.  King  Herod  consults  the  priests. 
They   point  out  Bethlehem.     The  star  re-a])pears.     The 


mi 


\ 


Catechism, 


249 


adoration  and  presenif   of  ihe  Magi  twelve  days  after  our 
Saviour's  birth. 

32..  Herod  wishes  to  kill  the  inf.int  Jesus.  Herod's 
fcirs ;  his  liypocrisy  ;  his  recommeniaiion  to  the  Magi. 

23.  An  angel  orders  the  three  kings  not  to  return  by 
Herod's  donimions,  but  by  another  road.  The  infant  Jesus 
is  carried  to  Uie  temple  of  Jerusalem  forty  days  a'ler  his 
birth.  The  holy  man  Simeon,  and  the  holy  \v:Jo\v  Anne 
acknowledge  Him  as  God.  This  fact  comes  to  Herod's 
ears  ;  his  anger;  his  strange  resolution  with  regard  to  ihe 
children  of  liethlehem,  where  he  thought  the  aalant  Jesus 
had  returned. 

24.  An  angel  orders  Joseph  to  fly  into  Egypt  with  the 
infant  Jesus  and  Mary  his  mother.  Instruction. — What 
happened  the  night  after  tlie  presentation  in  the  Temple. 
By  the  command  of  Herod  all  the  little  children  in  the 
town  and  environs  of  Bethlehem  are  put  to  death. 

26.  He  falls  sick  and  dies  at  tlie  end  of  a  month,  de- 
voured by  worms.     (Croiset,  18  vol.  page  17.) 

27.  An  angel  orders  St.  Joseph  to  carry  the  infant 
Jesus,  and  Mary  his  mother,  back  into  their  own  country. 
They  return  to  Nazar-iih. 

28.  Jesus,  Mary  and  Joseph,  go  up  every  year  to  the 
temple  to  celebrate  the  Passover. 

29.  Mary  and  Joseph  lose  the  infant  Jesus  at  the  age 
of  twelve  years,  and  find  him  at  the  end  of  three  days,  in 
the  temple,  in  the  midst  of  the  doctors  of  the  law.  Instruc- 
tion.—Fear  of  Joseph  and  Mary.  Words  of  his  mother. 
Answer  of  Jesus. 

30.  Jesus  Christ  dwelt  visibly  on  earth  for  more  than 
33  years. 

31.  He  taught  men  the   manner  of  living  holily.     He 


M 


250 


'1 


.i'K' 


tl 


Catechism. 


gave  lliem  ihe  example,  and  obtained  for  Ihetn  the  grace  to 
follow  it,  by  his  sufl'erings  and  death. 

32.  St.  John  baptizes  Jesus  Christ.  Instruction. — 
The  birth  of  the  precursor;  his  life  and  fasting;  his  disci- 
ples. He  declares  he  is  not  the  Messiah.  He  points 
Him  out  as  the  Lamb  of  God.  His  death.  The  heavens 
open  at  the  baptism  of  Jesus  Christ.  The  Holy  Ghost 
descends.  'J'he  Eternal  Father  speaiis.  Jesus  Christ 
goes  into  the  desert.  He  fasted  for  forty  days.  He  is 
tempted  by  the  devil.  The  prearhing  of  Christ  during 
three  yeats.     His  life,  His  dcctrine,  His  miracles. 

33.  The  twelve  Apostles  of  Jesus  Christ— Peter,  An- 
drew, James,  John,  Philip,  Bartholomew,  Thomas, 
Matthew,  James,  Jude,  Simon,  Judas. 

34.  St.  Peter,  the  chief  of  tiie  Apostles,  the  Vicar  of 
Jesus  Clirist  on  earth,  and  the  first  Pope. 

35.  The  Apostles  the  first  Bisiiops. 

3G.  Judas  sells  iiis  master  for  thirty  pieces  of  money. 
Hatred  of  the  Jews.     The  treasoii  of  Judas. 

37.  Mount  Calvary.  The  cross  of  Jesus  Christ.  The 
other  crosses  and  the  robbers. 

38.  Jesus  Clirisl  died  on  Good  Friday.  History  of  the 
Passion  of  Jesus  Christ.  Crucified  at  12  o'clock  and  died 
at  3.  Darkness  over  the  earth.  Miracles.  Repentance  of 
the  executioners.  His  soul  descends  into  hell.  His  body 
is  embalmefl  and  laid  in  the  sepulchre,  and  guarded  by  Ro- 
man soidiers. 

39.  Je«  (S  Christ  rises  from  the  dead  on  Easter  day. 
History  of  the  Resurrection.  He  appears  to  Mary,  to  St. 
Peter,  to  the  two  discij)les  going  to  Ernmaus,  to  the  Apos- 
tles. Incredulity  of  St.  Thomas.  Christ's  apparition 
eight  days  after.     Then  also  at  the  lake  of  Tiberias.     The 


t 


T    I 


t 


Catechism. 


251 


e  grace  to 


iiclion. — 
liis  ilisci- 
le  points 
2  heavens 
)ly  Ghost 
is  Christ 
\.  He  is 
3l   during 

• 

'eler,  Au- 
Thomas, 

Vicar  of 


money. 
St.    The 

ry  of  the 
and  died 
itance  of 
[lis  body 
]  by  Ro- 
ster day. 
►',  to  St. 
le  Apos- 
)parition 
3.     The 


confession  of  St.  Peter.     The   mission   of  the   Apostles. 

40.  Jesus  Christ  ascends  into  heaven  on  Ascension 
day,  40  days  after  His  resurrection.  He  sends  the  Holy 
Ghost  to  His  Church  10  days  after  His  ascension.  Won- 
ders and  mysteries  of  the  day. 

41.  He  will  return  to  the  earth  at  the  end  of  the  world 
for  the  general  judgment. 

42.  The  seven  Sacrament?,  instituted  by  our  Lord 
Jesus  Christ  for  our  sanctiHcation.  The  three  Sacraments 
that  can  be  received  but  once.  The  five  Sacraments  of  the 
living.     The  two  of  the  dead. 

43.  Prayer  in  order  to  obtain  the  assistance  of  the 
grace  of  God.     St.  Paul  and  St.  Matthias. 

44.  Our  duties  for  every  day,  every  week,  every 
month,  every  year, 

45.  The  six  Commandments  of  the  Church. 

46.  The  Church  of  Constantino  the  great. 

47.  Ttie  cross  of  Jesus  Christ  found  on  Calvary  by  St 
Helen,   after  having  sought  it  for  three  years.     The  mira- 
culous cross   of  Cunslantine.     The  invention  of  the  Holy 
Cross.     The  cross   carried  by   Heraclius  in    tiie  seventh 
century.     Julian  the  Apostate. 

48.  Tlie  New  Testament.  The  arrangement  of  the 
Canon.     The  discipline  ordained  by  the  Council  of  Nice. 

50.  St.  Augustine  converts  the  English  and  leaches 
them  the  religion  of  Christ  or  the  Catholic  religion. 

5i.  The  English  follow  the  religion  of  Christ,  or  the 
Catholic  religion,  for  UOO  years. 

52.  Luther,  Calvin,  Henry  VIH.  wander  from  the  way 
of  Christ,  reject  His  religion,  that  is,  the  Catholic  church. 
The  by-road  and  its  forks  represent  the  Reformation,  with 
its  divisions  or  variations  for  the  last  300  years.  The 
straight  road  of  Jesus   Christ  existed  a  long  time   before. 


■      i: 


■  «1 


■  ■;: 


252 


Catechism. 


Lucifer  or  Satan,  the  first  to  take  a  wrong  road — he  seduces 
Adam  and  Eve  and  their  descendants  to  accompany  him. 
Jesus  Christ  comes  to  conduct  us  into  the  right  road,  and 
enable  us  to  keep  it  by  the  grace  of  redemption.  The  de- 
vil is  enraged  at  the  loss  he  suflers ;  but  he  succeeded  in 
the  following  ages,  by  inducing  men  to  walk  in  a  new,  bad 
road,  that  of  the  pretended  Reformation. 

53.  Arius,  Macedonius,  Pelagius,  Nestorius,  Eutyches, 
Monothelites. 

54.  Mahomet,  Iconoclasts,  Berenger,  Albigenses,  Pho- 
tius,  Wicleff. 

55.  The  four  great  schisms — of  the  Donatists,  the 
Greeks,  the  West,  and  of  England 

56.  Luther,  Calvin,  Henry  VIIL 

57.  Baius,  Jansenius,  Wesley. 

58.  The  sacred  phalanx  of  the  (Ecumenical  councils. 

59.  The  priests  came  into  the  Indian  country  to  teach 
the  Indians  the  right  road  or  the  religion  of  Jesus  Christ, 
to  make  them  the  children  of  the  Catholic  cjiurch, 

60.  History  of  the  Catholic  Missions  now  flourishing 
throughout  the  world. 


*'' 


